Which is a very wise thing to do. Better safe than sorry racing around with a broken throttle servo or a plane going wild because of radio failure.

So it shuts it down the same way as the nitro. The shut off button just close's the little bit of the idel that is open to keep the engine running. Then when you push on the button it does just like the nitro motors the throttle servo closes it all the way and no air no run. Right? Thanks I tried to post some photo's of my giles but I am having problems. I will get them up. Bling I like the thing you made to run the choke rod threw it is just bent wire right. Great job don't be mad if you see t on my plane too.

One more thing I tried to post this on the Giles thread but got no answer. Can you guys help me my wing tube it so very tight it is hard to get it threw the plane. But the wings man it feels like they are going to break off just trying to slide them on. Any ideas please? Tried the soap and a little sanding but they did not work please can any body help?

If you have a decent radio and digital throttle servo, disable the sub trim and set the idle through the radio's program and dedicate a switch to close the idle even further for the engine to stop.

If you don't have a decent radio and servo, simply use the sub trim. Program it so that when it's somewhere in the middle, the engine idles. Just like the nitro engines setup.

I would still recommend using an opto kill switch down the road once the engine is tuned. I program my radio so that if I turn the ignition off, throttle is set to zero also. Failsafe = throttle zero, choke on (I always use a choke servo), ignition off, few degrees right or left rudder.

Thanks I got that. Now does anybody know how to undo a tight wing poll? Like I said it is so tight it feels like the wings are going break just putting them on. Any help will do? I have tried to sand the pole a little bit, but that did not work and the soap did not work. So any help would be great please. Thank you... Eric

I had this problem on one of my plane's and in time it started breaking in and got real smooth I suggest may be try some baby powder and make sure that the tube in the plane does not have any glue in it,

Good luck

Sorry that I didn't get back sooner. Heavy eyelid problem. Overlooked the shutdown thing. Was planning on using the throttle and a Smartfly opto switch. This DL is so easy to install and run, was thinking that adjustments would cure this. I am going to take the engine off of the plane and look directly at the butterfly. I wonder if this carb has the notch in the butterfly that needs to be closed. Will be contacting DLUSA today, this thread's posts say they give good service. There is no idle screw and the butterfly sure feels like it is all the way closed. Being closed should shut the motor down. Won't be flying the Bling until fixed!!

Nice muffler, I really like it. [sm=thumbup.gif]

Hey giddyuperic;
is your tube inside the wings cardboard? If yes wrap some padding foam around a 3/8" wood dowel. Then wrap some sand paper around the foam (pay attention to the correct direction, depending on you cordless drill) and run this seet up, chucked up in your cordless drill, in side the tubes. Run it back and forth several times 'til the wing tube will fit smoothly. You can do this also on a fiber glass tube. Just takes a bit longer. Don't sand the CF (or Alu tube) that goes inside the wing tubes.

It sounds as though your stop screw is still installed or you do do not have the throttle servo end points adjusted properly you should be able to kill the engine with your throttle trim.

One thing I just thought of is if it could be an air leak. A number of years ago I had a similar problem with a .40 glow engine where one of the carb screws came out and the engine had a very high idle and no matter what I did with either of the needles couldn't get it to idle down. Then I noticed the missing screw and all was well.

Like I said, mine without any adjusting on the mixture screws will idle reliably at 2100 or so, I'm sure I can get the idle down further once I start peaking the needles.

Mike

Air leak sounds like it could be your problem. Check the carb is tight and the pulse tube/connections, look for cracks in the reed block. Break out the soapy water!
Muffler is from Troy Built models. It is really well made and polished.

3 turns out on the LSN?! general setup is around 1.5-1.6 turns out for HSN and 1.2-1.4 turns out for the LSN. at 3 turns out, the carb is flooding the engine. start with 1.5 turns out on both needles, start the engine with high idle, then start to fine tune the needles.

I'm with Liquid_TR never have I heard of the low needle this far out-its a wonder it would even run!! I had a similiar prob. with mine in the beggining and that was that I had a brain fart and had my throttle end point at a setting that was keeping the butterfly from closing all the way-lacked 1/64" or so and that little bit made a HUGE difference! Now, my DL idles 1700 all day long or lower if I wanted it to.

Try to set-up my engine and was wondering what you guys are using over the throttle level to attach to your throttle pushing rod ?
And by way since it"s my fisrt gasser..what kind of pushing rod i have to use (materiel) ?

Thanks for you input.

Pascal

Wrap some sand paper around a wood dowel that's close in diameter to the wing tube. Glue or tape the sand paper to that dowel. Keep sanding till it fits. I just did this and it works.

What kind oif wing tube is it? Alum or CF?

Eric its alot easier then that, just take a full sheet of sand paper and cut a slot up the middle of a piece of dowel or square stock. If you use square stock you'll have to round the end to fit it in the drill. I then put in two screws to hold the sandpaper The dowel just has to fit in a cordless drill. Chuck it up and bend the sand paper a little and stick it in your wing and run the drill till the tube fits. You don't need any thing fancy. Here is some pictures of my rig.

I got this two parts with the engine. Is that the arm i have to attach over (or instead ) the little throttle level ??? And what that spring for ?

If is that arm i have to use, how i fix it ? Remove the actual level and add the new one with bit of threadlock ?

Pascal

Maybe this will help.

the lever goes on top of the original throttle lever on the carb for easier, better and higher resolution throttle arm. you attach your ball link to this fiberglass arm.
the spring is spare part. there is another one in the spark plug boot. the spare is there in case you lose the original one.

A picture say everything....

Thanks Kevin and liquid

kevin ,im outta town again tonight but gonna use ur tip on the tube in the plane for pressure

Thanks guys this is a great thread So much help!!!!!!! Thanks Eric

Greg,
Yeah, its just to easy to do and a bit of piece of mind. Simply take the plate off, clean it up and rub some flux on it an solder away. Then clean up the diaphram side and your good to go. Hope you get it ready to fly soon.

I have been following this thread since the beginning. Also I followed the thread that was before this one. It got locked for political banter. I have found that if there is a question needing an answer, this is the place to ask it. Because of the high volume of people coming and going to check out this great running motor. I would say this motor has swept the nation like a storm. At first I couldn't find anyone who ran a DL, or even herd of it. Now everybody knows about the DL and a lot of my buddies run them. This is a great motor and thread. You are correct Eric.