Thanks for the advice! I just spoke with Jodi and he will do the helicoil incert for $15.

Mark

If you drop by in Miami I'll help you
Received a HeliCoil kit and a 13/32 drill today from Amazon. M10x1 part # 5542-10

You can also look for the M10x1 Fix-a-Thred kit. This one only costs $19(+tax) and some auto part stores carry it.

Or send your engine in to Jody. You probably also need to replace the cylinder gasket.

HeliCoil install went well. Engine w/ new piston runs like a champ again. Ran a tank of gas w/ variable rpm through it to break the new ring in. Do some elevator fixing and she's ready to fly again

Good to hear Martin. Get er done !!!

Thanks! These Extreme Flight planes are very addictive. Hope they release the long awaited Edge soon.

They are addictive. Pretty soon I'll have a basement full of them.

I have a DLE 55 but it has no velocity stack would it be wise to have one or not?

From earler post the advantage is you may stop some excess fuel sputter inside the motor box on some of the plane designs . Depends on the cowl building air pressure in the box. I plan on using one only if I see that I need it. Not very much expense so why not can't hurt.

I myself have the V2 DL-50. Where would i find a velocity stack for that motor? How does it get mounted anyway? Thanks.

Jody has them at ValleyviewRC.com. He can tell you how to mount it. It uses the same two bolts that hold on the carb and reed block. Mine kept changing mixture in knife edge and inverted. I put one on 50 and 55. Works great. The fuel getting all over the engine box was not the reason I installed my first one. Although having it go bone dry once the stack was on there was a great side benefit.

Lost all power on the 2nd flight today, then wouldn't run above idle.
Turned out the vacuum pipe between the insulator and the carb had perished.
Pipe is not made of a suitable material for gas. Worth keeping an eye on.

I"ve had 2 DL50 s and I also changed the poor blue pipe to tygon.
At my 2 DLE55 engines this pipe/blue/ was changed by the factory to tygon.

ok another (i havent got a clue question) what do i do with the vent line fron the fuel tank ? on glow i run it to the exhaust, but i dont know what to do with it on the big ole gasser.

ok what you do ,is leave the vent line long ,so you can loop it back ,across the tank ,this acts like an air resevoir, then just simply,let it exit the fuselage bottom ,,what i do, is drill a hole,in the fuse bottomthen glue a tube in the hole and connect ,my vent line to it,,im other words to be simple the vent exits the bottom of the plane,,sometimes youll see a little spray especially after a loop,,,thats the purpose of looping the vent line,to subdue the spray,also there are several diagrams on how to set up a gasser tank,,also you must secure the tygon,inside the tank,and outside and make sure your stopper is gas compatible[,,uote]ORIGINAL: hillbillyexpress

ok another (i havent got a clue question) what do i do with the vent line fron the fuel tank ? on glow i run it to the exhaust, but i dont know what to do with it on the big ole gasser.
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4 15-minute flights this afternoon w/ the repaired DL50 and it runs like a champ again!

Isn't that a great feeling? Nothing like an engine that's running great again.

Absolutely. Only thing I noticed is that the spinner wan't centered. Took it off the last flight and the crankshaft looks straight, so does the spinner backplate. Strange...

man,,,that could be anything from loose engine bolts or firewall to the allen bolt that secures the spinner ,off balanced prop ,bent prop stud ,off center crank  failing bearings,whew,,,you got alot to check,unless its obvious,if you havent had any prop strikes or crashes,,,,its easy ,not to look for off balance/center,then all of a sudden you check,i found a off center crank  on another motor,that way,ive noticed on my 50 ,,that theres a hair of endplay ,if one was to move the prop up and down,check yours.

I noticed the tip of the spinner wobbling about a quarter of an inch and the distance of the backplate to the cowling wasn't consistent either. Took the spinner off and the backplate is 100% flat/straight. Maybe the spinner screw, will check tomorrow. Never had an impact.

The propbolt it needs to be locktited, it holds the propdriver on.

Martin, maybe the hub is not pressed on all the way. Or maybe the prop centering bolt is not on all the way? I haven't taken one of these apart so I can only help so much. []

See the difference in the 2 images. That's almost 1/8.

Looks like the DL has its expiration mark set at 30 gallons. This engine got 35 gallons trough it. Even though I ran it for 2 hours earlier this week, it now also makes a loud clicking sound when I turn the prop over.

Gonna ship it to Jody for repair. What is the turnaround time for repair? Not that I'm impatient

Pull the spinner, backplate and cowl. Check to see if the prop nut is tight or if you can loosen it with little pressure.

If it won't come loose get a strap wrench and a deep well socket to take the bolt off. Then pull the propdriver off and inspect it. The problem with the wobble must be in this area. Clean it all with denatured alcohol and reassemble with blue locktite amd torque that propbolt down. It will save you the postage.

Well my other concern is the clicking sound. The bearings feel rock solid though and I just recently replaced the piston. I believe I need to make a tool to hold the hub or IMO use a strap wrench like you mentioned. What is the size of the prop nut?

I'll make a short video about the clicking sound in a minute. Hate to take the engine apart AGAIN.