DL-50 engine
#5651
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From: Stockholm, SWEDEN
I have had my DL50 for 2 years now and it has been virtually problem free. I have always stopped it by closing the throttle. However this does not work any longer. I think it is the caburator that is getting worn and has to be replaced or could it be anything else. The idle screw has been taken away so that is not he reason.
#5653
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From: mojave desert,
CA
you could have a poor seal where the carb meets the reed block or where the reeds meet the case,,or your case gaskets are loosing their seal ,,check all that first,,,im assuming youre referring to the idle set screw,,,most people toss them out anyway.
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I have had my DL50 for 2 years now and it has been virtually problem free. I have always stopped it by closing the throttle. However this does not work any longer. I think it is the caburator that is getting worn and has to be replaced or could it be anything else. The idle screw has been taken away so that is not he reason.
#5654

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From: Jenison,
MI
I had a simular problem with mine last year And I noticed It did not give a spark all the time, about 20 flips of the prop it sparked good 21-30 no spark at all. the EI took a puke.
#5655
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From: Farmington Hills,
MI
ORIGINAL: OldRookie
joe1298,
If you want the best high temperature thread locker, you need to get some Locktite 2422. This stuff is good up to 650°, and breaks loose at 102 in lbs(EZ to break loose with an hex wrench). The break loose point is about the same as their blue 242.
The Loctite item # for the 30g syringe is 1134601.
If you have a local Fastenal store near by they can get it $33.00 for 30g.
Or can be mail ordered here: https://weldwarehouse.securesites.co...number=1134601
Greg
Great! I will get some ordered today. Thanks!!
joe1298,
If you want the best high temperature thread locker, you need to get some Locktite 2422. This stuff is good up to 650°, and breaks loose at 102 in lbs(EZ to break loose with an hex wrench). The break loose point is about the same as their blue 242.
The Loctite item # for the 30g syringe is 1134601.
If you have a local Fastenal store near by they can get it $33.00 for 30g.
Or can be mail ordered here: https://weldwarehouse.securesites.co...number=1134601
Greg
Great! I will get some ordered today. Thanks!!
#5656

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From: Steamboat Springs,
CO
Well guys,
I didn't get it started, but I figured something out. Upon a suggestion, I took the plug out again and checked spark. While the first 6-7 flips where fat and blue, after that is stopped completly. I did still hear the ignition click though. Does this sound like igniton on just the plug?
I checked alll two of our local auto parts store and neither had a plug, so I have some being shipped to me.
Thanks for the suggestion, Brett
I didn't get it started, but I figured something out. Upon a suggestion, I took the plug out again and checked spark. While the first 6-7 flips where fat and blue, after that is stopped completly. I did still hear the ignition click though. Does this sound like igniton on just the plug?
I checked alll two of our local auto parts store and neither had a plug, so I have some being shipped to me.
Thanks for the suggestion, Brett
#5660
#5661
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From: Farmington Hills,
MI
Hey all wanted to share a place that carries the NGK CM-6 plugs at a decent price. Willards small engines.com, just ordered two of 'em and they're shipping out Priority mail for $12.95 shipped.
#5662

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From: Steamboat Springs,
CO
I am sure that the plug is on the cap all the way, that not the problem.
Also, I live in a town of about 10,000, there are 2 auto part stores and that's it. I can get one from NAPA in a day or two, but I refuse to pay $8.99 for a spark plug even if it tries my patience a little.
I let you guys know in a few days when I get my plugs in.
Thanks for all the help, Brett
Also, I live in a town of about 10,000, there are 2 auto part stores and that's it. I can get one from NAPA in a day or two, but I refuse to pay $8.99 for a spark plug even if it tries my patience a little.
I let you guys know in a few days when I get my plugs in.
Thanks for all the help, Brett
#5664
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From: Maryville,
TN
ORIGINAL: paul5992
Have you guys seen this yet?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?FVSEARCH=dle
Have you guys seen this yet?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?FVSEARCH=dle
#5665

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From: Prior Lake,
MN
here is another place to get the CM-6. $1.97 ea.
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/H-98052-56471.html
Greg
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/H-98052-56471.html
Greg
#5667

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From: Steamboat Springs,
CO
Well Guys,
I figured out my problem. It was neither the plug nor the ignition, it again turned out to be another simple misunderstanding. On my last engine, a 5 Cell NI-MH was fine for the ignition. On the DL ignition is states 4.8-6V, so I figured the same battery would work fine. Wrong, I was reading that a 5 cell pack is too much voltage, so I threw on a 4 cell pack and it started right up like any gasser should.
Again, thanks for everyone's help, Brett
Also, do you think the little bit with too much voltage hurt the ignition?
I figured out my problem. It was neither the plug nor the ignition, it again turned out to be another simple misunderstanding. On my last engine, a 5 Cell NI-MH was fine for the ignition. On the DL ignition is states 4.8-6V, so I figured the same battery would work fine. Wrong, I was reading that a 5 cell pack is too much voltage, so I threw on a 4 cell pack and it started right up like any gasser should.
Again, thanks for everyone's help, Brett
Also, do you think the little bit with too much voltage hurt the ignition?
#5669
Squeaky:
The ignition is a digital unit. Typically digital circuits work or they don't unlike old analog circuitry. You could have stressed some of the components but I doubt it.
The ignition is a digital unit. Typically digital circuits work or they don't unlike old analog circuitry. You could have stressed some of the components but I doubt it.
#5670
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From: Kingsville, TX
If everyone would please turn to page 202 in the new Tower Hobbies catalog, it states that each DL engine undergoes extensive quality control inspection at DL USA's Texas facility before reaching any hobby customer. Obviously, Bob at DL USA has an agreement of some kind with Tower. Wonder if you order a motor from Tower, if the shipping address will be from Texas? He may also be handling all the warranty issues for a cut.
#5675

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I don't know if I would recommend that... people's ability to solder varies greatly, and if the butterfly "solder plug" was ingested, it could seize the engine. Also what would that do to the slow idle?
It might be better to put a servo on the choke and starve the engine that way. Another method would be to put a servo on the ignition switch or use an electronic switch from the radio.
It might be better to put a servo on the choke and starve the engine that way. Another method would be to put a servo on the ignition switch or use an electronic switch from the radio.
ORIGINAL: Troybuilt
Just solder the hole in the butterfly valve and you can kill it every time it is fully closed.
George Jenkins
Troy Built Models.
Just solder the hole in the butterfly valve and you can kill it every time it is fully closed.
George Jenkins
Troy Built Models.



