I had this problem with a Brillelli 46cc. Nothing seemed to work, but what finally worked was to drill holes through the sides of both muffler bolt heads and put a single piece of 2-56 wire through both of them and bend the ends. No way those bolts will back out.

I went through the process given in the post you suggested. Everything tuned as described, but with the carb set this way the engine wouldn't start. I had to open the low needle 1/8 turn to get it to start, and 1/4 turn to get it to transition properly. At this point I am right back to rich mid range.
Maybe the carb needs cleaning. What do you think?

Greg

Check the filter screen if you want but I doubt it's plugged up or very dirty, The symptoms you describe don't indicate that. You are on your third gallon of fuel, has the engine done this from the begining or did it just start this. It sounds like your metering diaphragm lever may be set to high, it should be flush with the top of the surrounding casting, or the pop off pressure is to low, also take the vent hose you put on off, it's very rarely needed on a rear carbed reed inducted engine and I've seen it cause as many problems as it has cured. Do one thing at a time, that way you will know what it is when you find it.

This engine has done this from the beginning.
I pulled the plug yesterday, and there was a lot of carbon build up on the plug. There was also a ball of something wedged between the ceramic insulator and the metal body of the plug. I guess that is what happens after 3 gallons of rich running. I am going to replace the plug before continuing.
Thanks for the list of stuff to check. I'll work through all of them this weekend and see what happens.

Greg

Forget all the goo and just nip them up when the motor is warm/to hot.

Your suggestion is very good...:: learned it years ago......I do use a thin coat of the Ultra Copper, then use star washers under the bolt head. When you first run the engine, get it hot, then retighten the bolts while it's hot.. The bolts are a different metal than the aluminum and have different expansion characteristics..... Have worked on auto and lawn equipment since the early 70s, and have never had a muffler loosen....

Need some advice, My sister lives in Hong Kong and she just returned to the states with a DLE-55 for 289.00 (for taking care of her house for 2 yrs, it was FREE) this is an authentic 55 from what I can tell. After reading some of this thread some people are tearing them down to clean the insides is this really necessary? Anything special I should do before starting?
Looks like a very well manufactured engine!
Greg

hey,kahn,,i didnt do that to mine,,and never had a problem,,,if you feel you need to,i wouldnt completely dissasemble,but just remove the carb,and reed block,,spray it out with wd 40 ,let the drippings fall on a clean paper towel,to see if any shavings show,,you can do the same in the cylinder ,,,make sure you use a bit of blue loctite when you re assemble the carb and reeds,but this is only if you feel you need to,,ps i paid the same for mine...

Looks like we got a good deal! I see they are going for 410.00 here in the states! She goes back next Saturday. She sent me a link for another maufacturer for 50cc for 189.00 but you have to buy 3. she also wanted to know if she could bring back a few of the DLE 55 and sell them for 350.00 to some of my rc friends if they would sell?

you should send her back via china, they are $245 there, at Cylone toy and hobby, just don't expect any backup service or warrantee, same goes with Hong Kong, you need help, and all of a sudden they do not understand ingrish !

Kahn,
I didnt clean mine out either. Yeah they are around 400 from reputable places like TBM and Valley View (by Alphabetical order guys) But what we are buying into here is the incredible service these guys offer. Jodi and George seem to be regulars around these parts. Guys I know buy from TBM and we just found out about Valley View and a friend just ordered up a TT Yak and stuff. After a recent purchase by him from OMP we are learning our lesson about after the sale follow up and they BOTH have it.

They are outstanding contributors to the products they sell on this, and I am sure other forums. I would gladly pay 2 times the price of anything to get the kind of support we have seen.

If I were there I may buy one too so I cant fault you for that one, but unless your sister is offering support after the sale, we will spend the extra 60 bucks or so. Plus Jodi has a stack of those sweet stock sparkplugs!!!

hey cavendish ,i agree,,i took my chances and havent had a problem,i bought mine on ebay,of course,theres no warranty,,and ive dealt with cyclone too,i bought a yak for 150.00 less than i would have paid stateside,but youre right,he understood english,,but he didnt know the language of custoner service,there were a few defective parts ,and the best he would offer ,was a discount on future purchases,i informed him that there would be no more future purchases........

Old Hoosier wisdom:.. Buy cheap, buy twice.

Hey guys,

I just picked up a used DL-50, everything appers in order, the guy I bought it from said it would run, and I can't get it to start. I've checked the spark and its good. It floods real easily. It will fire, but very rarely. Does anyone have any ideas before my arm falls off? I was wondering that if altitude would affect it that much. I live at 7,000' and the guy I bought it from lives at about 1,000'. Is it just really rich. Any help will be appreciated.

you better hope you didnt buy a worn out motor,,it may be a good idea to remove the plug and make sure its clean and gapped and clear the motor out,,or just send it to valley view,,but also you might check starting procedures for a simmilar motor,by the question youre asking ,,makes me think youre new to gassers,,if so getting with someone who runs gassers would help as well.

If its getting too much gas(Flooding) I would pull the carb off and check the main needle and lever height to make sure its all good, would not hurt to clean out the carb while your at it.

squeky penguin,first thing i will do,check batt.volts,spark,screen on carb.I dont know about DL but some ignition need to be flip like you going to start,to produce spark

I'm not new to gassers, allthough I'm not great with them. There is only one other person around here who flys gassers and I don't think he could be of much help. The ignition battery is fully charged, there is a big, fat blue spark. Like I said in my first post, I live at 7,000', could it just be extremely rich? I couldn't imagine the carb would be gummed up and it flood so easily.

Thanks for everyone's help, Brett

SP.. dont throw in the towel on us quite yet.

I agree with you, its probably not gummed up possibly dirty but I dont think it would surface in a complete no start.

I thought solo was onto it with ign battery (check it again) sometimes a weak battery will produce a few good sparks then fall flat.. What pack are you using and are you using a reg? . Check your gap.. should be .018 to .020. Mine came gapped wrong.. Also . what plug is in it? the NGK or the stock one? If its stock and you can find nothing straight up wrong with it try replacing it with an NGK. I realize you said its a nice spark.

It takes 2 things.. spark, and gas - well and compression but if its sparking it should be ok. Was there fuel fouling on plug when you pulled it?

Living at 7k I wouldnt think would not let it run at all.. Maybe run crappy but you shouldnt have a no start. I think.. and someone more knowlegeable than me that the needles should be 1 1/4 on each to get the ball rolling. Look closely and you will find the answer. You may wish to check the screen in the carb as it maybe sucked up some crap although I agree it probably wouldnt make it not start at all but maybe.

If it were me, I would check obvious, try another plug or clean that one if you dont have one at the ready. Check local Auto Stores for a CM-6 tomorrow and just try it. First check the gap though.

Did the 50's have the ground spring on the plug wire? I have a 55 so I am not sure. Did the guy tell you what oil he was running? Again. not to say that has anything to do with it but it lets me know the status of your buy. If he didnt know or didnt say.. he may have tinkered around with everything or hardly run it. If he was confident in providing background info maybe everything is ok. i.e. Most engines I have sold or bought used there is always the .. what oil were you running, what mixture, etc.

If all that checks out electrically I would go for the case bolts make sure they are tight and before that, fuel supply issues. You should at a min be able to shoot a little in the carb and at least get it to fire.

Most have been.. when cold.. choke flip 2 or 3 times till it fires, unchoke and 3 to 5 it should fire

I'll check the ignition battery again, but I know I just charged it. The spark plug doesn't have any markings on it, so its probably not an NGK. Tomorrow I'll check if anyone around has a CM6, but I rather doubt it. I'll also reset the needles. I would agree though, all of these issues could make it run poorly, but not run at all.

Thanks for everyone's help, I'll report back tomorrow on my findings.

squeake take plug out,turn engine for about 10 revolution ,see if you get spark everytime,sem to me like you got ignition problem

also you have a normal nimh battery for the ignition?. As solo says, just take the spark plug out, turn the propeller and you will see a spark everything the sensor pass.

You need 3 things to run. Gas, air, and spark. One of the three is a given. You have a fat blue spark so we might have eliminated a second. So you likely have a gas issue. If you hae compression you have the basic pump necesary to move the diaphragm in the carb. If the carb has ever been removed it's possible the pulse port has been blocked by an inaccurate positioning of the carb gasket. For a basic, sure to get it started needle setting, set both needles to 1-1/2 turns open from full closed. Watch the fuel line when you flip the prop with the choke closed and the idle trim on the transmitter about 3/4 up. Throttle stick back.

If the fuel is moving you have a working pump. If the engine has sat for awhile the carb pump diaphragm may have dried out. Take the carb apart and get everything inside wet with gas and put it back together. If the diaphragm with the little flap on it has the flap sort of bent out of a flat shape, it needs replaced. If the engine starts let it warm up some then start adjusting the needles for peak performance.

I am actually considering going to a canister setup for my plane which is an Aeroworks Extra 260 (50cc obviousely)

Does anyone else out there have this bird and an opinion on what canister to use. I also noted the headers come flex and non flex. My problem with the non-flex is I would probably measure wrong and order the incorrect header. Does anyone have any input?

joe1298,

If you want the best high temperature thread locker, you need to get some Locktite 2422. This stuff is good up to 650°, and breaks loose at 102 in lbs(EZ to break loose with an hex wrench). The break loose point is about the same as their blue 242.
The Loctite item # for the 30g syringe is 1134601.

If you have a local Fastenal store near by they can get it $33.00 for 30g.

Or can be mail ordered here: https://weldwarehouse.securesites.co...number=1134601

Greg