Hey Paul, how you been? I usually balance mine laterally from an in flight test.

First make sure that your elevator throws are matched as this will make a difference in the test.

Second go up to a little altitude and pull the power back to idle an enter a vertical downline with power at idle.

With wings level and power at idle let it accelerate a little then quickly apply full up elevator. Do this routine a couple of times upwind and downwind to be sure you get a consistent result. Make sure your wings are level and only use elevator for the manuver. If you have a heavy wing it will show in a turn toward it.

I like to use blenderm tape on the wingtip with a dime or quarter to start and see if it gets close enough wighout having to go with lead.

Thanks guys, I think I'll just mount it normal and position my batteries and receiver to get it close. No need in trying to re-invent the wheel here. Plenty of good wheels out there already

On my Yak build, I appreciate the compliment. I'm moving right along for a first timer. I have had a few hickups along the way but nothing I couldn't go back do again the right way.

I might be covering it after a couple more weekends, I'm just going to go with white ultracote/oracover and a Dennis Kirby's graphics kit. The white might hide some of the "imperfections" This is the color scheme only on a 102" plane http://www.angelfire.com/oh2/kirbysg...5/Color102.jpg except Yak 54 logos on wings, no QQ stuff at all, and some futaba's for the tail. I think I still have a pretty DL50 sticker too

I just capped the end of the wings tonight, hoping to cut ailerons and their hinge lines tomorrow.

And the answer is, YES I'm pretty sure it's going to get a nice new DL-50 on it (if not it will be my old DL-50 from my 27% extra) but I'm pretty sure it's getting a new one.

This is my progress so far on the Yak

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6925535

If I get a DL 50 and had a similar plane. I would cut hole in box on firewall. Epoxy coat all wood by carb intake. Also I am sure going to add a aluminum plate, to help prevent broken ears on engine. The engine would bolt to plate and plate would be fixed to the stand-offs. Aluminum or wooden dowels will work for stand-offs. Just a suggestion! Capt,n

How are you Rich. Its been cold as hell here.[:'(]

I have an edge 540 with the dl 50 and standard standoffs. I have about 1/2 to 3/4 clearance and no trouble here. I would not cut hole in firewall unless i had trouble, first mount the engine and try it. Then if you have trouble cut hole or baffle the cowl.

I do not like the holes in the firewall for the fact that fuel will get into the inside of you fuse. And soak into the balsa. I have several engines and all of them would do it. the only ones that didn't was the side draft, because they are side draft carbs.

Just my 2 cents

Hey Capt,n

Thanks for your input.....I just got the back plate today, boy it is nice!! Thanks Rich.!!


As far as the hole in the firewall....I really don't believe that I'll have to go that route. The DA50 that has been put in this aircraft and only has about 1/8" more clearance than my DL...and there is no hole being drilled. The DA has been running great in aircraft.

If I was to drill a hole in the firewall what size hole would you put in there?

Well the clearance meets the requirements...so I'm thinking it should be fine. I guess I don't relish the idea of weaking the firewall either....makes me nervous......[] I did however drill the breather hole for my P51 because of the mounting method used.

Have there been problems running the DL with the min. clearance BTW?

Thanks again for the info.

Talk to you later,


Mike

Thanks Craig,

I have 1-1/8 to the firewall using 3" stand-offs and 1/4 spacers to get my back plate distance. I'm with you on the hole and fuel thing...I just don't want it weaking the structure either.

I'm sure it will run great!


Mike

Yo Paul!! U need to come down here to fly. It has been t-shirt weather all week.

RDB

I cut a small hole in the firewall of my GP Ultimate 1.60 for more carb space... I attached a small piece of new coarse sanding scuff pad on the inside of firewall to prevent any foreign objects from being sucked into the engine and I think it also stops gas from getting inside the fuse...I have many flights on this plane and no signs of firewall weakening... Larry

Thats a great idea Larry!!!!!!!!!!!!!.............

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind if I end up having to do that.


Mike

With the DL engine being lite...did you use long stand-off to get the balance right? How much is the ready to fly weight? Got any more Photos. thanks Capt,n

John,

I have other photo's over at the WH Edge 540T thread, but I'll send some if you like. I'm hoping to keep the total weight at or below 17lbs. Right now with everything add up I'm at about 16.10

But I have not got my A123 batteries yet so that may change the weight a bit.


Here is the link to the WH Edge 540 thread.
[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5234553[/link]

The DL50 should work out great in this aircraft......Can't wait til spring.....

Later


Mike

I don't like cutting a hole ether. I have the recommended inch.

Hey paul

Where did you find that wrap around, looks good.

I need to get one of those

hay paul is that the old style engine with the small ears and what did you use to shine that muffler like that

can you show the other side thanks

Snaer810: I went an read the thread you posted. Wow...lot of good photos for sure, with lots of good advice about engines and some very nice airplanes. I wish I had a Wildhare...just by reading how they fly. Also when I mentioned cutting a hole...that was for a install where that may help. It is clear the hole is not needed in the installs shown. Very nice photo sequence for anyone setting up a neat airplane. Best Regards capt,n

Here is my latest build a OMP Hybrid Edge with a 92 span. Getting ready to cover, ihave just finished the muffler cutout and now on to covering.

lill will Yes it is the old motor. I have an aluminum plate bolted onto it for strength. Here is the other side with the J-tec pitts on it.

I went back to the stock muffler because of some problems with the J-tec. The people at J-tec said the would replace it free of charge. They are a great company. Here is my plane now.

Is the engine plate a item you can buy. It looks like it could be made easy too for that matter. Capt,n

Hey Guys,

Got my DL50 last week. Putting it in a GP Ultimate Bipe. What type of Optical Kill Switches are you running? I know some are using the Smart Fly, but I thought there were some other options . Anyone have any input?

Thanks,

TH

Try the 42% products opto-kill switch...easy to install and nice price. It appears that it has been real reliable.

See some of the photos here on install. [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5234553[/link]

Mike

www.42-percent-products.com have the Opto-Kill , There warranty even covers against crash damage.

Captinjohn, I bought that plate from Rfabber he had a whole bunch of'em made. It is 3mm thick and made to fit the bolt circle on the crankcase. I had to buy longer bolts from Ace hardware. But it fits great.