Finally got around to getting my GP Wagstaff finished today. Weather permitting I am going to start my DL for the first time tomorrow. Forcast is rain in the morning turning to snow in the afternoon. Keeping my fingers crossed. Kinda pumped as this is my first gas engine. DL #2 is waiting to go into a Giant Stinger.
Doug

nmking09 have you heard of anyone having success by drilling out the high speed needle? I remember bosshoss reported on trying to correct the bad carb with little success when these engines first came out but I am willing to try this as I have little to lose.
If you have any specific tips on how to do this I would like to hear them, thanx.
Super08 your post sounds a lot like me I have also just finished my Patty Wagstaff. I bought mine five years ago! I did a lot of weight saving mods on mine that seemed to add a lot of time to the assembly but my ready to fly weight with the DL is 14lbs 14oz. so I am hoping for a great flying plane. I have also ordered another DL for the new Hangar9 Carden Yak that I also have on order, I will be using a cannister exhaust on this one. I also plan on building this one stock so it should go together fast.
When I recieve my new DL I will try the carb from it on my old DL to make shure that is the problem.

Just got back from running my engine for the first time Woo Hoo. Had a hard tome trying to get it to start for the first time. I had to shoot some gas into the carb to get it to start. Then it ran like !@#$%. Checked the mixture screws and found they were way off from what the factory setting is supposed to be. I set them back to factory specs and it fired right up. It was way too lean before. The low end was only open about a 1/3 turn and the high end about 3/4 turn. I ran 6 or 7 tanks through it and got it tuned up so I get a good idle at 1650 and top end is 6500 with a smooth transition. I am usinga Xoar 22X8 and a Globee tack. I would guess this will improve as it breaks in. I am using a Bisson Pitts Wrap around and I recall someone saying it will knock down the high end 200 to 300 rpm below the stock muffler. I though I had put my first DL on this plane, but I see I got them mixed up. This is the second one I bought, so number 1 will be going in my Giant Stinger. did I mention I was pumped Here are a couple of pics I took with my cell phone...

Nice plane,

Ware did you get the stand off, I havent seen any like the one on youre plane I like the red and the nut end for tighning em down,

I got them off a guy on the forums here. His name is Roger Forgues, I forget what his screen name is. Here is a link to his site..
http://forgues-research.com/

Interesting site, Thanks

Can some one explain this to me. My first DL50 has a lot of compression and runs great, my second one has very little compression with at most two gallons through it. Since it was pretty windy today, I decided to adjust the mixture screws since it's now on synthetic oil. Before making any adjustments, I thought it would be smart to check rpms and was much surprised. 7350rpm, ProZinger 22x8, Jtek wrap around muffler, Florida, 70 degrees. I haven't checked the first DL50 recently, but it was in that range. I left the HS needle alone and leaned the LS needle just a bit. Anyway, why the good performance with low compression? To quantify the low compression, the prop can be turned with one finger.

anybody got a good used DL50 they would like to sell? Give me a shout please.
Thanks,
John

John--check the market place. There have beed DL's for sale, but not much less than a new one. In fact, I think the one I was WAS new.

Thanks Greg, looks like someone may have already inquired about that one, but I sent the seller a email anyway. Yall keep your eyes open for me please for one !!
Thanks,
John

Just run the DL50 for the first time
I ordered a Seagull Bling for it a couple of weeks ago, still waiting on the plane so I decided to do a bit of bench breaking.
What a sweet engine! Can't wait to get it flying! I used a Hawk 22x8 prop kindly and timely supplied by those DL guys down under.
Half the price of props here including the shipping! Nicely drilled too!
With my old analog tacho I was getting about 6500 at the end of the second tank. Used Honda 2 stroke oil, low smoke (mineral based)
at 32:1

Ebay has some,
Used and new,

Be extremely cautious of ebay engines.... it can be extraordinarily difficult, and perhaps impossible, to obtain warranty service on some of the engines sold there. Caveat emptor.

There have been rumours here and on other sites in the past of DL developing a 85, 100 and 170 size motor. One rumour that I read was that DL was trying to beat DA to market with a 170 motor. Does anybody have any more info on these rumours, since I am loving my DL50 and I am thinking of upgrading.

Cheers
Pupmeister

We will have the DL100 twin in Aust the next few weeks , about mid April depending on the factory production.

We cannot state price or specs until officially released.

Cheers

Scott
DL Engines & Hobby Australia

Great props , thanks Scott!
Did I mention my DL 50 ran great! Look forward to seeing the 100.

Does anyone know if mounting a powerful button magnet on the opposite side of the firewall from the ignition unit would cause any problems? It would be separated by only about 1/8". Are there any electronic chips or ? in the ignition unit which might be de-programmed by a strong magnetic field? I was thinking of using button magnets to hold the hatch in place... thanks, Ron

I would think that with the vibration from a gasser engine and air turbulence in flight it may not be a good idea, There is several types of hardware available that would secure the hatch in more of a rigid maner,

That is my opinion only,

Thanks for the thought, but my question is whether the magnet would adversely affect the ignition module...???

I have used button magnets for large scale hatches before and they work really well as long as you have magnet to magnet contact. Magnet to steel (washer) is not strong enough and an abrupt negative snap will sometimes pull the hatch off... It's nice to be able to pop the hatch each time you fuel to see what's going on, and on-lookers come over and ask... how 't heck did you do that??

Ron

Try it and do power off and power on range checks.

What size magnets and how many are you using to mount that hatch?

The magnets are 5/16 dia by 1/8" thick. They are amazingly powerfull, it is all you can do to pry two of them apart. I have previously used 2 in each corner of a hatch, (total of 8) with good success. Of the 2 in each corner, one gets recessed in a gusset on the top of the fuselage, the other in the hatch. This time I thought I would try mounting them in shear on the ends of the hatch, with corresponding magnets recessed in the rear top of the firewall and the front of the bulkhead behind the hatch. This would make a total of 4 and eliminate the need to install gussets to hold them. I've set them up temporarily and it takes a really good pull to pry the hatch loose. It's an experiment and I may find that I need more to make it work...

Then I started worrying about whether it would interfere with the ignition module, which I had planned to mount on the top/front of the firewall, immediately in front of my magnet, ~1/8" of plywood separation. Great Hobbies in Edmonton, where I bought the engine says "no problem" but I wanted to get a few more opinions before I commit to mounting my ignition module and perhaps de-programming it or something.

Opinions appreciated...

Regards Ron

Ron--

I think the magnets is a neat idea. Those "rare earth" magnets are amazingly strong.

Check out the new DL-100. The mufflers are on wrong but I will have one.

the mufflers are just DL 50 , and that is the way they fit