One is on forwards and one backwards. Shouldn't they both be to the front or rear? Or does it not make any difference with the offset of the cylinders? It is hard to tell which way the stacks would line up better in that picture.

Is that real, or photoshop??? LOL

When I mount my new DL50 should I cut a hole in the firewall for carb air? If I do need to cut a hole will I get gas spitting back through the carb to soak my motor box? This is my first rear carb (reed type) engine.

This questions came up earlier. I cut a hole in my firewall just in case, but others have said that if you are at least 3/4 to 1" away it shouldn't be a problem. I probably would have been OK without doing it. Maybe Bob P will chime in.

I have "assembled" eleven DL50s in a variety of ARF airframes (none were mine so far). If I find the clearance to be less than 1" I cut a 1" diameter hole in the firewall. I seal the hole with CA and then glue a 1/4" thick peice of open cell foam on the inside of the firewall to keep the inside of the motor box clean. The foam will catch any fuel spray and dirt from entering through the hole but still allow air flow to the carb. The foam is replaceable if ever it need be.

I have two of the Dl's and i do not cut any holes in the fire wall for the carb if you use the stock standoffs or longer. I don't think you will need a hole. I mounted one in an airframe that already had the hole and got alot of fuel inside the fuse from spitting fuel, so i cut a piece of balsa and caped the hole off and sealed the wood. All is fine with mine now.

I cut no holes.

Guys, any idea what is the size of the 4 prop retaining bolts on he DL50? are they metric M5 or 10/32?

Thanks.

W

They're 5 mm, 0.8 thread pitch and I beleive 40mm long.

Earle

Well the weather is finally getting nice around here so, I decided to get the Yak out and get it ready. It has been sitting in my shed since September. Five flips of the prop and the DL came to life and sounded great. Can''t wait to get to the field.

Great to hear another good story about this engine. I am getting ready to start mine next week for the first time.

I got a quick question though, you guys use any thread lock on the prop bolts? Thanks.

Got my GP Girant Aeromaster in the air with the DL50 finally, after waiting all winter. I was only turning 6,000 with wooden MA 22x8 but I had all the power needed to pull the plane thru the sky, even "unlimited" verticalwe are close to an airport so I didn''t want to let it get too high. I have to say the GA is a great flying plane, not a 3D machine but great for sport flying. My RPM are based on whatever the needles were set at from DL USA. I have since removed the cowl and will attempt to adjust the needles as it was burbling considerably and more experienced gasser guys have suggested it is on the rich side. Three flights of about 15 minutes each and burned a total of about 30oz of gas. I am still in the lawnboy 32:1 phase looking forward to moving into the Bell Ray 50:1 stage. Hopefully get some more flying in tonight and get carb adusted. Wow! I am hooked.

I need a little technical help here with starting my two DL50's after they have sat a while after a flight. Cold starts are straight forward, subsequent starts involve too many flips. What technic are you using? Are you using the choke, are you priming or what?

BTW, my second DL50 has very little compression, but its strong as a bull! It out pulls my first DL50 and it has less than two gallons through it. The first DL50 is a strong performer, just not quite as strong as the "compression less" one. Bob, at DLUSA, told me the factory switched to a different piston ring on the more recent engines which is resulting in more power.

Buy a piston ring from Frank bowman.....you will have the best compression, and easy starts. Best Regards Capt,n[)]

Does he have a web site?

what would make his rings better, Im corius beter rings beter compression, Lead's me to this question why is it that they do not put two rings on the same piston?

2 rings can cause more drag (friction) , with one good ring...they run great! There is a website and phone number for Frank. Give him a call...you will learn more about engines from him in just a few min. I will look for the website. Best Regards capt,n[)]

Chuck, I turn on the choke and give it 1/4 throttle, then flip the prop back and forth between the start of the compression stroke to the other side of the compression stroke that primes the carb. The crank shaft has to go around bottom dead center, back and forth, back and forth about 10 times or so.

I bought one of these engines and installed it in my 76 inch Extra. Have not flown or even started it yet but 2 guys at my field have the same engine and I noticed that both DLs really run very rough, lots of misses, especially in the midrange. Both engines were not tuned and were flown with needles untouched from the factory. Granted the engines have basically 1 hour of runtime. I wonder if it's normal for a DL to miss so much in the early stages. My CRRC PRO GF26i run flawlessly from the get go until it quit, a gallon later, but that's another story.

Sounds like somebody needs to tune their engines. Heck, my DA ran very rough right out of the box. All engines, no matter if its glow or gas, need tuned. Its part of RC. I bet if your fellow club members start leaning their low end needles on their DL's. Their rough running days will be a thing of the past. As far as you, I'd tuned it before you even fly it. Good Luck

Good to know. Everybody's raving so much about these engines that I just had to get me one but was concerned when I heard them run. I will follow your advice and after the mandatory 1 hr break in on the ground, will start leaning the low needle until it sounds right.
Thanks for the feedback

Double, If you do it that way you will be very happy with the way it runs. ALWAYS TUNE A NEW MOTOR!!! Factory settings are not close they are just so you can get it started for the first time.

No need for that.just bolt it on and go.You will need to lean both H and L a little to smooth it out but all that running on the ground is just wasted gas.I broke mine in flying and it did great.

Ditto here...no running in was necessary for any of my DL's (have 3) or my DA's for that matter. Just run one tank through on the ground to makesure the idle is reliable...then go fly....as hard as you like. Worked for me.

I also ran 50:1 synthetic straight out the box on all 5 engines (3 DL & 2 DA).

Hi, i have a DL50, i started straight away when i bought it primed it and went second flick. I put a tank of fuel through it and the second tank was in the plane in the air. I did two flights that day and came home. It started no problem and run rich. I have pulled the cowl off tonight to try and tune it, but after trying for an hour i cannot get it to start.

I have recharged the batterys, and changed the batterys to be sure they are ok
I have a spark at the plug and the plug is getting wet
I have compression

I am beat what do you think is up with it????

Paul

Well, I just got back from the field and all I can say is WOW. Although a bit rough on the low end, as I can hear all kind of misses, the idle is reliable enough (1920 rpm) and safe for slow speed landings. I know it will eventually idle @ 1800 or lower but I'm not pushing it at this point. I'm pretty sure my 76 inch (12.5 pound) Extra will have unlimited vertical. Takeoff acceleration is pretty scary. I found myself basically flying it at idle 70% of the time. A new set of skill will have to be developed to tame this beast. Now, if I could get rid of the misfiring...Once I burn through the first gallon, I will remove the cowl and start fiddling with the needles. The DL50 is spinning a 22X8 JXF.