DL-50 engine
#2252
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From: Mississauga,
ON, CANADA
I’m going to throw a wrench in the discussion about ignition batteries, as I believe when it comes to ignitions more volts are not always better. You use a lot less power with lower voltages.
I have been running my DL50 on a one cell LiP0 >> 4.2 V << from the moment I first started the engine. I have over 50 flights and no problems. The engine has never flamed out on me. I have run the battery down to 3.3 V with no discernable performance issues.
I did some research on ignition voltages after I fried my Fuji ignition module when my voltage regulator shorted that was regulating a 2 cell LiPo. I decided to try the one cell LiPo and eliminating the regulator after reading the following test done by CH ignitions. The DL50 use the same ignition modules as CH Ignitions.
Bound_4_Hell
__________________________________________________ __________________
I just have done some battery drain tests.
All tests were done at 8000 RPM. .A new single cylinder, Version 2 CHXL Ignition.
7.2 Volts -725 MA
7.0 Volts -675 MA
6.0 Volts -650 MA
4.8 Volts -475 MA
3.7 Volts -375 MA
3.0 Volts 300 MA
2.5 Volts 250 -MA
2.0 Volts - 175-MA -Weak spark, Do not know if engine would run, probably not.
Under 2 volts Ignition dead. Ignition still working but Hall Effect dead. We have done test runs and the engines run fine down to 3.2 Volts. Why use any thing over 4.8 volts. Three Nickel Metal Hydride would probably be OK. 3.6 volts.
__________________________________________________ ___________________
You can find the whole document here. It’s called “ STUFF WE HAVE LEARNED “
http://www.ch-ignitions.com/tech.html#pwr
I have been running my DL50 on a one cell LiP0 >> 4.2 V << from the moment I first started the engine. I have over 50 flights and no problems. The engine has never flamed out on me. I have run the battery down to 3.3 V with no discernable performance issues.
I did some research on ignition voltages after I fried my Fuji ignition module when my voltage regulator shorted that was regulating a 2 cell LiPo. I decided to try the one cell LiPo and eliminating the regulator after reading the following test done by CH ignitions. The DL50 use the same ignition modules as CH Ignitions.
Bound_4_Hell
__________________________________________________ __________________
I just have done some battery drain tests.
All tests were done at 8000 RPM. .A new single cylinder, Version 2 CHXL Ignition.
7.2 Volts -725 MA
7.0 Volts -675 MA
6.0 Volts -650 MA
4.8 Volts -475 MA
3.7 Volts -375 MA
3.0 Volts 300 MA
2.5 Volts 250 -MA
2.0 Volts - 175-MA -Weak spark, Do not know if engine would run, probably not.
Under 2 volts Ignition dead. Ignition still working but Hall Effect dead. We have done test runs and the engines run fine down to 3.2 Volts. Why use any thing over 4.8 volts. Three Nickel Metal Hydride would probably be OK. 3.6 volts.
__________________________________________________ ___________________
You can find the whole document here. It’s called “ STUFF WE HAVE LEARNED “
http://www.ch-ignitions.com/tech.html#pwr
#2253

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From: Goodyear, AZ
ORIGINAL: hbutler
Hello Chuck I,
New to the thread... So this question may have been addressed.
I'm interested in using A123s, but I believe the max voltage for the ign is 6v. How long have you been using freshly charged 2 cell A123? I'm assuming for a period of time you are over 7v...
Hello Chuck I,
New to the thread... So this question may have been addressed.
I'm interested in using A123s, but I believe the max voltage for the ign is 6v. How long have you been using freshly charged 2 cell A123? I'm assuming for a period of time you are over 7v...
#2254

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From: El Reno, OK
No wrench thrown, just expressing your opinion, no harm there.
The reason I use A123's exclusively is not because of source voltage, but because of a 95% capacity discharge that is nearly FLAT at 6.6 volts and the fact that I need only use ONE charger, ever, and I can charge both ignition and RX batteries and leave 'em sitting for weeks, then go fly, and life is good.
The reason I use A123's exclusively is not because of source voltage, but because of a 95% capacity discharge that is nearly FLAT at 6.6 volts and the fact that I need only use ONE charger, ever, and I can charge both ignition and RX batteries and leave 'em sitting for weeks, then go fly, and life is good.
#2255
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From: Silverdale,
WA
Excellent info there Bound. This was on a test rig and not in an engine, so I wonder if the actual current draw will increase in use on the actual engine? Current draw should depend on the resistance at the plug, which will increase under compression.
Regardless, a single 2400 mAh A123 battery is light and could last for at least a full day of flying.
Regardless, a single 2400 mAh A123 battery is light and could last for at least a full day of flying.
#2256

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From: Winston Salem,
NC
Hi,
Two simple questions?
1- On a A123 battery pack what kind of charger can one use, I have four Hobbico Elite chargers that Im happy with in doing my NMH, Ion 2 and 3 cell pack as well as small Lipos,
2- I have read on this site many times about over heating the DL 50 engine weather be on the ground for breaking in or in flight, question what is the normal engine running temp/heat range that one should look for when the engine is in use, Im interested in purchasing a temp gun for my three gasers to monitor the temp,
Two simple questions?
1- On a A123 battery pack what kind of charger can one use, I have four Hobbico Elite chargers that Im happy with in doing my NMH, Ion 2 and 3 cell pack as well as small Lipos,
2- I have read on this site many times about over heating the DL 50 engine weather be on the ground for breaking in or in flight, question what is the normal engine running temp/heat range that one should look for when the engine is in use, Im interested in purchasing a temp gun for my three gasers to monitor the temp,
#2257
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From: christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
heeeeeeelp
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
#2258
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From: Maryville,
TN
ORIGINAL: cavandish
heeeeeeelp
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
heeeeeeelp
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
#2262
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From: Western Australia, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: cavandish
heeeeeeelp
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
heeeeeeelp
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
I have replied to your email you sent me from earlier in the day RE the above.
Sorry I didnt answer earlier in the day, but we had an absolute ripper of a day (Saturday) for flying here today, Cool temps, clear blue sky & dead calm winters day, so had been out all day trying my best to wear out a couple of DL50s

Give the plugcap a good push/shove/wiggle, when its on properly it will almost cover the entire plug.
Cheers
Scott
DL Engines Australia
www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop
#2265

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From: Winston Salem,
NC
I like the bisson muffler it has baffles in it the tone is deeper and it is well made, you can get it with the smoke nipple, some people do not know that the smoke nipple is attach to a heat retaining coil in the inside that will heat up the smoke oil be for it hits the canester, I think its the best in the market,
#2266

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From: El Reno, OK
Bosco - on other Bisson mufflers (all that I have ever run) there are NO baffles, and there is nothing that the injector is threading into except open space. I like their mufflers, and would like them better if they DID have baffles and a smoke coil. Do you have one you could get an inside pic of to show me? That would be awesome...
#2267

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From: Winston Salem,
NC
Whoops,
I made a mistake Bob it is not a Bisson muffler it is a slimeline, The exhaust pipes go all the way to the back of the can with holes drilled in them creating baffles and the smoke nipple is attach to a heating coile that retains a lot of heat, If you go to Slimline web site and look up the inverted wraparound pitts muffler for a DA 50 you will see the heating coil that Im talking about they show it out of the muffler.
My mistake do to the fact that I have three pitts stile mufflers, Slimeline the best one J tec and a Bisson so I got them mix up, Ahhhhhh,
I made a mistake Bob it is not a Bisson muffler it is a slimeline, The exhaust pipes go all the way to the back of the can with holes drilled in them creating baffles and the smoke nipple is attach to a heating coile that retains a lot of heat, If you go to Slimline web site and look up the inverted wraparound pitts muffler for a DA 50 you will see the heating coil that Im talking about they show it out of the muffler.
My mistake do to the fact that I have three pitts stile mufflers, Slimeline the best one J tec and a Bisson so I got them mix up, Ahhhhhh,
#2271
I measured mine yesterday with an infrared temp gauge. The hottest reading was near the back of the head which was around 185 - 190 deg. F. The front and bottom of the head was around 180 deg. This was immediately after landing.
I think those are acceptable temps.
Tim
I think those are acceptable temps.
Tim
#2274
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From: christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
ORIGINAL: dlenginesaustralia
Hi John,
I have replied to your email you sent me from earlier in the day RE the above.
Sorry I didnt answer earlier in the day, but we had an absolute ripper of a day (Saturday) for flying here today, Cool temps, clear blue sky & dead calm winters day, so had been out all day trying my best to wear out a couple of DL50s
Give the plugcap a good push/shove/wiggle, when its on properly it will almost cover the entire plug.
Cheers
Scott
DL Engines Australia
www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop
ORIGINAL: cavandish
heeeeeeelp
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
heeeeeeelp
I am just fitting my new DL 50 to a 25% zlin 50, the plug cap does not "lock on" to the plug as described in the instructions.
when looking into the cap, all I can see is a white plastic/composite sleeve that fits over the end of the plug, there appears to be nothing to lock the cap to the plug,can someone please advise if something is missing from my cap.
thanks
John new Zealand
I have replied to your email you sent me from earlier in the day RE the above.
Sorry I didnt answer earlier in the day, but we had an absolute ripper of a day (Saturday) for flying here today, Cool temps, clear blue sky & dead calm winters day, so had been out all day trying my best to wear out a couple of DL50s

Give the plugcap a good push/shove/wiggle, when its on properly it will almost cover the entire plug.
Cheers
Scott
DL Engines Australia
www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop
THANKS
I WAS NOT PUSHING HARD ENOUGH
#2275
Sure.
I just used a DuraTrax Flashpoint infrared temp gauge.
Guess it works okay.
Here's a link;
[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML[/link]
Tim
I just used a DuraTrax Flashpoint infrared temp gauge.
Guess it works okay.
Here's a link;
[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML[/link]
Tim


