UMS Evolution Radial Care and Operation
#1552
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Rodger, I am glad to hear your Howard flight went well. I had a feeling it would be a nice flying airplane. I bet it was pretty fast with the weight of the 77 on it. The wing loading came out very high on mine.
Tom N.
Tom N.
#1553
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The Howard is not really very fast because it has a lot of drag. The 7-77 is a good match but the plane is quite heavy ( I have not weighed the plane but I am sure it weighs in excess of 25 lbs). I had the engine pretty rich on the first flight and the plane flew at a real scale speed. On the second flight, I leaned out the engine a bit and the plane was a lot faster. It has a tendency to sink really fast at low power even with the flaps down so one must use a bit of power when landing but it flies and lands very nicely. I had to put a full pound in the rear to get close to the recommended balance and I will have to figure out a way to hide those weights now that the plane is performing well. I am pretty sure that the plane is still a bit nose heavy but that is better than tail heavy. I just flew it around because I was concerned that the weight would be too much for the wing if one did any heavy aerobatics. If careful, I think rolls, hammer heads and loops would be OK with throttle management. Gentle aerobatics will be in the near future for my Howard.
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
#1554
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Hey Maxam (Tom) Kangke had the Howard on sale when I purchased mine for $400 including free shipping. I really like it and think it is a good match for my 7-77. If you really want one, Kangke would probably still honor that price. E-mail them if your interested. I think it is a great plane and the quality is as good as Black Horse and Great Planes.
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
#1556
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Okay Guys,
I could use some tuning and set up tips. I finally ran my 7-77 on Sunday . 1st problem was my so called "Heavy duty , Hi Torque starter" Couldn't wind it over even on 24 volts . So I had to resort to hand cranking . " As of course, I got stubborn and it was gonna start no matter what" ! So after flipping it over for what seemed like forever , I got it started and let it run rich ,well first thing that happened was after about 10 minutes I could hear it leaning out and tried to open up the high speed needle. That's when I noticed that the carb had come loose and it was sucking air. So I shut it down and let it cool off. After reseating the carburetor and carefully tightening it up . I reset the high speed needle to 2 1/2 turns out and tried again . Again had to hand flip it for what seemed like forever I got it to start again. Ran for about 5 or 6 minutes and stated running ragged and crapped out. At this point I was worn out from flipping it in 102 degree heat so I called it a day.
So I am asking for some tips and advice before proceeding again. First thing I did Monday was place an order for a new Sulliven Megatron Starter. <G>
As for my setup, I have a McDaniels On Board Glow system powered by a 5000mh Nimh sub C pack. The carb was set at 2 1/2 turns out on the high speed and 2 turns out on the low speed needle. I am using a 22 x10 prop for break in. The fuel I used was 1 gallon of Cool Power 10% mixed with 1 gallon of straight methanol .
So any input /advice would be most welcome. I know I need to run the engine for a few hours to get it seated in. I just am not sure if I am doing something wrong or overlooking something. The engine sounds fantastic and is beautiful to watch run. I can't wait to fly the Corsair with it but I sure hope it gets easier to start . LOL .
Thanks
Dave
I could use some tuning and set up tips. I finally ran my 7-77 on Sunday . 1st problem was my so called "Heavy duty , Hi Torque starter" Couldn't wind it over even on 24 volts . So I had to resort to hand cranking . " As of course, I got stubborn and it was gonna start no matter what" ! So after flipping it over for what seemed like forever , I got it started and let it run rich ,well first thing that happened was after about 10 minutes I could hear it leaning out and tried to open up the high speed needle. That's when I noticed that the carb had come loose and it was sucking air. So I shut it down and let it cool off. After reseating the carburetor and carefully tightening it up . I reset the high speed needle to 2 1/2 turns out and tried again . Again had to hand flip it for what seemed like forever I got it to start again. Ran for about 5 or 6 minutes and stated running ragged and crapped out. At this point I was worn out from flipping it in 102 degree heat so I called it a day.
So I am asking for some tips and advice before proceeding again. First thing I did Monday was place an order for a new Sulliven Megatron Starter. <G>
As for my setup, I have a McDaniels On Board Glow system powered by a 5000mh Nimh sub C pack. The carb was set at 2 1/2 turns out on the high speed and 2 turns out on the low speed needle. I am using a 22 x10 prop for break in. The fuel I used was 1 gallon of Cool Power 10% mixed with 1 gallon of straight methanol .
So any input /advice would be most welcome. I know I need to run the engine for a few hours to get it seated in. I just am not sure if I am doing something wrong or overlooking something. The engine sounds fantastic and is beautiful to watch run. I can't wait to fly the Corsair with it but I sure hope it gets easier to start . LOL .
Thanks
Dave
#1558
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I have a Sullivan starter using a Miller reduction unit on an 18 volt LiPo and have never had a problem using my starter. My engine usually starts within a couple of revolutions. I always rotate the prop backwards several revolutions before using the starter to make sure I don't have any hydraulic locks on any of the cylinders. I am using a Microsens on board glow system with balancer on a 3.7 volt 5600 MAH LiPo battery. Today I made a minor modification to my Howard DGA-12 to make it easier to assemble at the flying field. I made clips for the struts from tubing crushed twice at 90 degrees for mounting of the strut to the wing as suggested by one of my friends. This allows the struts to pivot and stay with the wing resulting in a lot less effort needed at the field for assembly.
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
#1559
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Heli, where did you get the miller reduction for your sulliven? I was looking online and didn't find one. I know what they look like. I guess I just wasn't searching in the right place, I borrowed a big starter from a friend that we use on his unlimited pylon racer, I am sure it will crank it over. My new starter won't be here till Monday . I loved the looks of your Howard ,glad to hear it flys good. I would love to put one of these radials into a Stearman and let it hang out there .
I am going to run the engine some more this weekend and see if I can't get it dialed in better. I am itching to fly the corsair .
Dave
I am going to run the engine some more this weekend and see if I can't get it dialed in better. I am itching to fly the corsair .
Dave
#1562
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Here is the web site address for Miller RC products: http://www.millerrcproducts.com/ - a lot of the folks at our field use his reduction unit.
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Last edited by Heli-NuBee; 07-03-2015 at 10:11 AM.
#1563
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Thanks Roger,
I got a hold of Miller and got the starter sorted out. It's amazing how much easier the engine starts when you can crank it over !!
I have a couple of questions on the break in process. The engine starts easily and seems to transition to full throttle ok. However after the engine has run for a couple of minutes It loses about 300 to 400 rpm and stays there. I can run it back to idle and bring it back up and it stays at the lower rpm rather than returning to the initial higher rpm. I have also noticed that these engines don't seem to respond much to opening the high speed needle . After about 3 turns out it doesn't seem to do much. Perhaps the low end is to rich? The engine isn't running hot and is surprisingly cool running. I have 4 tanks of fuel through the engine now and am going to check the valve lash before running it again. I will use Tom's method to check and set the valves. I am using a Zoar 22 x 12 Prop for the break in . What kind of RPM should I be seeing ? It is running about 5000 to 5100 initially and drops off to around 4700 to 4800 .
Thanks
Dave
I got a hold of Miller and got the starter sorted out. It's amazing how much easier the engine starts when you can crank it over !!
I have a couple of questions on the break in process. The engine starts easily and seems to transition to full throttle ok. However after the engine has run for a couple of minutes It loses about 300 to 400 rpm and stays there. I can run it back to idle and bring it back up and it stays at the lower rpm rather than returning to the initial higher rpm. I have also noticed that these engines don't seem to respond much to opening the high speed needle . After about 3 turns out it doesn't seem to do much. Perhaps the low end is to rich? The engine isn't running hot and is surprisingly cool running. I have 4 tanks of fuel through the engine now and am going to check the valve lash before running it again. I will use Tom's method to check and set the valves. I am using a Zoar 22 x 12 Prop for the break in . What kind of RPM should I be seeing ? It is running about 5000 to 5100 initially and drops off to around 4700 to 4800 .
Thanks
Dave
#1564
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (62)
Dave, The carb choke area is too large. Make your radio set the full throttle setting so the carb is 3/4 open. Same problem on the Moki radials. When you decrease the oil concentration after break in to 9% or less the engine will richen easier. Also the idle has to be on the rich side or else the midrange will in 3 to 5 seconds lean out on you. -Tom
#1566
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Thanks Tom,
I will slightly richen up the low end needle and I will reset my radio for around the 3/4 open mark. That was kind of my suspicion that the carb was to big. I have run into this before where backing down the throttle from WFO results in more power and higher rpm on some engines. What are your thoughts on the RPM I am seeing ? Do they sound about right ? I will run another 3 or 4 tanks of fuel through the engine before remounting it in the Corsair.
I also would like to hear from you guys running onboard glow. Where do you have yours set to come on ? I was thinking somewhere between 1/3 to 1/4 throttle .
Thanks
Dave
I will slightly richen up the low end needle and I will reset my radio for around the 3/4 open mark. That was kind of my suspicion that the carb was to big. I have run into this before where backing down the throttle from WFO results in more power and higher rpm on some engines. What are your thoughts on the RPM I am seeing ? Do they sound about right ? I will run another 3 or 4 tanks of fuel through the engine before remounting it in the Corsair.
I also would like to hear from you guys running onboard glow. Where do you have yours set to come on ? I was thinking somewhere between 1/3 to 1/4 throttle .
Thanks
Dave
#1567
My Feedback: (2)
I have my onboard set to come on at lowest throttle and go off around half throttle. Works ok that way.
fyi mcdanials recommends a cut off switch between the ignition battery and their ignition box. They say that even when the unit is "off" it uses battery. Their switch prevents that from happening.
fyi mcdanials recommends a cut off switch between the ignition battery and their ignition box. They say that even when the unit is "off" it uses battery. Their switch prevents that from happening.
#1570
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They exist for many carbs. It's a split aluminum cylinder with holes for the spray bar. For example, Super Tigre calls it a carb adapter ring, p/n 2202201;. $2.49 at Tower. Best to check for fit (ID/OD).
Last edited by redball8; 07-15-2015 at 02:02 PM.
#1572
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I had kind of a disappointing day. I flew my Howard DGA-12 and when I was close to landing the plane just quit flying, bounced hard, cartwheeled and seriously damaged the engine. The plane only suffered minor damage but the engine was hurt. One of the cylinders was broken off of the case. I checked and I can not purchase parts to repair the engine and can only send it in to Horizon for repair. When I sent my Saito 450 to CH Ignitions for repair the shipping alone was about $50.00. CH Ignitions was unable to obtain the necessary parts and the cost was going to be excessive so I just donated the engine for parts. I am afraid the cost to repair the UMS 7-77 could also be excessive and I could purchase a DLE 55 to fly the Howard for about $360. I will have to do some serious thinking as to if I decide to repair the 7-77. On previous flights, the Howard landed well with no problems. On those flights, there was a breeze coming down the runway. On the last flight, the air was still and warm, the plane simply quit flying at about two feet above the runway even though I had full flaps down. It was a real surprise. I can tell you that the plane is quite heavy but I did not get around to weighing it. It is unfortunate that the UMS 7-77 manual indicates only a few parts are available and all other repairs must be performed by Horizon. I think that I could repair the engine if parts were available.
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
#1575
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (62)
Dave, I think the carb insert is a great idea! Try it. Your RPMs indicate a strong running engine. It would be interesting to get the OS carb for the FF 240/320 and make an adapter to fit. I turned one down for my Saito 325 R5 and this resulted in a far better running engine! -Tom