rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Is this true of all 4 stroke engine installations? Do they all have a tendency to run leaner as the tank empties?
I have almost zero knowledge of 4 strokes and will be mounting an FA-80 on a Hangar 9 Fokker D VII. The engine will be mounted 45 deg. from upright verticle to fit in the cowl. Would this installation or any 4 stroke installation benefit from a regulator or pump?

Thanks,
RJ

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Actually its true of any engine, thats the reason you see guys up end their model at full throttle and set the HS needle with the nose high. Fourstrokes are actually a little more forgiving in this department drawing fuel better than some two strokes with too large carbs. My preferred method is to set the HS needle with the tank half full about 100 rpm rich, then I don't worry about it too much. Somtimes I do it with the tank half empty.[8D]

While I'm here I'll splain the difficulty I had the other day with the .65, I hooked up the Saito fuel filter that I hadn't used for a while and it must have had some sludge in it that collected around the HS needle of the .65. I disassembled the carb and blew it out. Soon as I get a chance I'll re-run it. Now I have the correct picture here.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Dave. I'll look further into it and decide which regulator I want to use.

Speaking of air filters ...Ihaven't been able to find them. I see plenty of them for car engines but, none for aircraft. I've seen replacement filter elements but, not the filter itself. Where do you get yours?

Garry

spaceworm

Totally agree!!! It was that way when I got it; I know better. I would replace the prop driver if I knew which one would fit.

Richard/Saito Club #635

spaceworm

That is a plan, I was thinking of converting it to spark ignition/glow fuel to improve fuel economy anyway. Thanks for the idea.

spaceworm

No, ABC (aluminum piston, chrome plated brass liner) that is why the cylinder is so big around and heavy.

spaceworm

Here are some articles on various Saito engines: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_93..._1/key_/tm.htm

Richard/Club Saito #635

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

This is the box from the first Saito I bought in the early 80's. It says "AAC". I didn't see anything saying "ABC".

Bob

SrTelemaster150

Hey great link Worm. 5 stars for you! I especially liked the articles on the 200Ti one of which I have recently purchased. It will be the next engine on my test stand.

I also liked the article on the 270T which I have always been curious about.

spaceworm

Please read the notes by Bill Robison:
in the reference below:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_58...tm.htm#5843068

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dick, here is a fairly lousy picture of a Saito 1.20 ABC, the cooling fins extending out over the cam cover is the give away.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

I think what I'm about to say conflicts with the Robison post.

The box pictured earlier is what this engine came in. I originally bought the engine from Tower when they distributed Saitos. According to the Robison post, this engine is an ABC. The box says AAC. I've had both the box and engine about 30 years. What do you think?

Bob

lopflyers

My Feedback: (12)

I can't beleive you have an engine box stored x 30 yrs.

radial1951

*
As long as there is no physical damage, that engine will be worth a LOT more with it's original box and paperwork, especially if you have the original Tower Hobbies receipt. Won't be long and it'll be vintage! If nothing else, it's just "nice" to have all the original stuff.

I guess the only way to be sure about the ABC vs AAC is to break the joint between the cylinder and the crankcase... not if it was mine! Though, it could do with a bath :-)

Bill Robison (Very wise man) refers to the "cast-in brass sleeve". Is that the case? Most engine liners are a slip fit in from the bottom of the cylinder, or drop in from the top with a removable head (OS style) and therefore are replacable.

Regards RossG
radial1951
_____________

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ross, the Saito 1.00 twin is still designated as ABC and as near as I can find it is the only one designated so. Strange isn't it.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

It's in need of new bearings. Just never got around to do it though. Yeah, it does look kind of crappy.

I also have the aircraft I originally purchased it for, although it is in need of a refurb and repair. Bud Nosen Trainer. See pic.

Bob

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

"I can't beleive you have an engine box stored x 30 yrs."


Hey, I've been in storage for more than twice that.

Bob

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Bob, I've got 10 years on you and I still have my McCoy .36 I got for Christmas in 1956 and the .35 I bought a couple of years later.
My oldest Saito is from early to mid 80 ? something.

earlwb

I still have some engines and boxes going back to circa 1958 or so. The boxes might start falling apart one of these days though.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Hey Hobbsy, not so fast! I'm gaining on you. Look at the pics.

That catalog and instruction sheet are from an OK Cub .049 that I have in the original box. Look at the prices fom the catalog. I also have a Fox .35 in its box.

It amazes me sometimes at what things used to cost.

Bob

R/C Lee

My Feedback: (3)

Having a little trouble here. I have a new Saito .72 that I'm having trouble breaking in. I've run around 40 ounces of fuel through it, mounted on a stand, but it still won't hold an idle. I've tried adjusting the idle screw, high speed needle, everything per the manual, but to no avail. I had no trouble breaking in an earlier Saito 1.20, but this .72 has me stumped. Do I need to run more fuel through it until it holds an idle; if so, how much? I've broken in OS 4-strokes and haven't had this trouble. Is the problem with this engine, or the .72 design, or that it just needs more break-in time? I will be putting four .72's on a new Wingspan B17 and want to make sure they are reliable. At this point, I'm thinking of going with OS engines, but I'd rather not. Any advice? Thanks, Lee

mike early

Perhaps bottom end too rich still. Try a OS Type "F" plug to minimize any present and future plug issues.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Saitos have a different way to break in, and tuning is a little different than an OS or Magnum.

The best thing would probably be to set your hs and ls needles back to the factory settings. It should be about broken in by now, so peak your hs and leave it there. Start leaning out your ls until you get to a point where it doesn't want to transition from idle to lots of throttle. Then, back off about 1/16 on the set screw and set your hs around 300-400 rpms richer than peak.

The 72 is a strong, smooth running engine when the ls is set right. A Saito really doesn't need a smoke trail in most cases.

Do you have the metal back plate on yours?

FNQFLYER

Engines in boxes Hmm, ETA 29, ED 2.46 racer, AMCO 3.5 (real and replica) GB1 (new but old) and every Saito I have ever owned except the 50 that was stolen (and I still have its box) all still stored in original boes or the a/c they are meant to power.  And yes I am amazed by the original prices of our toys and more importantly the prices some are still fetching today.  Mind you I have a number of "acquitions" that have come my way that were in various stages of assembly and not boxed. 
All good grist for the mill.

spaceworm

The engine you show is clearly the 120 ABC. The box you showed earlier is clearly marked AAC. The only conclusion, if they came together. is that the box is not the correct one for the engine,

The 120 engine was offered in the original ABC, then the 120s and later were AAC. Does this make it clearer to you? Again, read the complete history and Bill Robison's notes.

Sincerely, Richard/Club Saito #635