Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > Kit Building
Reload this Page >

12' Telemaster- gonna need help

Notices
Kit Building If you're building a kit and have questions or want to discuss kit building post it here.

12' Telemaster- gonna need help

Old 09-19-2012, 03:21 PM
  #126  
mikehamilton
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help

<xml><w:worddocument><w:browserlevel>4</w:browserlevel></w:worddocument></xml>

Jeff you may need GPS with autopilot to get it to the flying field. :-)



<xml><w:latentstyles latentstylecount="156" deflockedstate="false"></w:latentstyles></xml><style type="text/css"> Style Definitions */table.MsoNormalTable{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;mso-style-noshow:yes;mso-style-parent:"";mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;mso-para-margin:0in;mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;mso-pagination:widow-orphan;font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-ansi-language:#0400;mso-fareast-language:#0400;mso-bidi-language:#0400;}</style>
Old 09-19-2012, 03:32 PM
  #127  
thailazer
 
thailazer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Liberty Lake, WA
Posts: 1,558
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help

Nice project, and it looks like you bought out a lumber yard to build it. That is a lot of wood!
Old 10-27-2012, 09:38 AM
  #128  
croweville
My Feedback: (23)
 
croweville's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Kinston, NC
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help

Hey Jeff,
I've been lurking around and watching your build of this fantastic flying plane. My Giant flys so smooth and slow she always draws a crowd. If I can figure out how I'm going to try to post a picture of her so you can see that ALL that work really pays off. My Avatar is a Senior Telemaster and if the picture loaded in the background is my beater. A 40 size Telemaster that has MANY hours and not so nice landings...LOL You are doing a GREAT job on your Giant and she'll provide you many years of enjoyment. Anyway I'm wondering if I loaded the picture right so let's see....
TTYL,
Bruce

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Tq48735.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	162.1 KB
ID:	1815292  
Old 10-27-2012, 10:41 AM
  #129  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help

Yep, the picture worked, and that is a really nice looking plane.

Life has gotten in the way of the build for a little bit, but I hope to get back to it soon.

What engine do you have in yours?
Old 10-27-2012, 11:29 AM
  #130  
croweville
My Feedback: (23)
 
croweville's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Kinston, NC
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help

Hey Jeff,
I've got a 26cc gas in her and the power is perfect as she will take off at about 1/3 throttle and will fly for 30 or 40 minutes on an 22 oz tank. When you build your struts be sure you understand just how much load they will be carrying. If you want I'll send you some pictures in a pm of what happens when you build them as per the plans and what we did after we learned about it...lol I don't want to post them here and create issues that are not needed on your build thread.
TTYL,
Bruce
Old 10-27-2012, 09:37 PM
  #131  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help

Yeah, I've seen reports of strut failures. The kit now comes with brass pieces for attachment.

I'm going to use aluminum jury strut material instead of the built up wooden struts, and double the attachment pieces.
Old 08-11-2015, 01:14 PM
  #132  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

OK This thread has been dead for a while. Life got in the way a bit, and I haven't posted any updates.



Here's the 1/2" balsa windshield and flat hood area. Later in the process I decided to cut both off, and build a rounded 'Hood' and use plexiglass for a windshield.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0578_zpscgkjl7ki.jpg
Views:	377
Size:	199.3 KB
ID:	2113965  
Old 08-11-2015, 01:28 PM
  #133  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Another shot of the flat "hood" and cheeks, that were cut off...

Here's a shot of the strut attach points. I added a bit of ply to go over the top of the longeron, and used a blind nut to make sure things are strong.



Mount points on the wing got the same treatment. Counter bored the hole for a blind nut, then ran a tap through the T nut so the wood would also be threaded, and clocked to the steel threads of the T nut.



In the photo you can also see LED's mounted inside the wing, and clear plastic tubes for servo wire guides (the tubes oxy aceteline welding rod comes in).


Here's the glider release. It is mounted to the fuse via screws on the top into the structure the wing mounts to, and on the bottom it has 4-40 allen screws into T nuts.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0579_zps2qzuwge4.jpg
Views:	350
Size:	189.7 KB
ID:	2113966   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0576_zpsbs3xxjpl.jpg
Views:	352
Size:	202.7 KB
ID:	2113967   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0619_zpsllkvhu1i.jpg
Views:	352
Size:	205.1 KB
ID:	2113968   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0623_zpsemx2ur06.jpg
Views:	341
Size:	217.2 KB
ID:	2113969  
Old 08-11-2015, 01:36 PM
  #134  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Another shot of the glider release. Braided steel cable soldered into a clevis on one end and soldered to a coupler to the rod.



I made a change in plan for the power plant, and with help from a friend (thanks Phil), I felt comfortable cutting off most of the cheeks and the hood.



Should provide lower vibration, and I have another plane the DLE55 with pitts will be perfect for.



Finally started covering. Transparent orange ultracoat with white trim. You can see the clear plastic tube for servo wires, and LEDs inside.


This shows the servo installation and 4-40 control rods with solder on clevis. I went with the control horns shown because they had enough reach to have the pivot point in line with the hinge line.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0622_zpsflbq7w2p.jpg
Views:	363
Size:	340.5 KB
ID:	2113970   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0620_zpsdwgyepyd.jpg
Views:	364
Size:	340.2 KB
ID:	2113971   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0621_zpsaixhopcn.jpg
Views:	368
Size:	192.3 KB
ID:	2113972   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0624_zpsnwqp0st4.jpg
Views:	362
Size:	199.6 KB
ID:	2113973  
Old 08-11-2015, 01:44 PM
  #135  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default



Here is how the control installation went with the tail. The plans call for the rudder servo to be mounted on the side of the fuse, but I did some measuring and found it could be mounted in the tail and actually have better geometry (linkage is straight).

You can also see the steel blind nuts that were used in building up the tail, as opposed to tapping threads into the wood as the plans call for.

I was concerned that this setup would limit throw of the elevators (before they collide with the rudder control horn when the rudder is at full deflection). It turns out I can get twice the recommended throw without risk of anything colliding.



Here is a shot of what I did for struts. The aluminum is from the link someone provided a few pages back. They are intended for jury struts for man carrying airplanes (light sport). To take up the room in the middle, I doubled up the brass tab that came in the kit with a 2nd piece of wider brass purchased at the hardware store and bent to the same angle in the vice. Allen cap screws with nylock nuts. Will later cut off the excess bolt and touch them up on the bench grinder, along with rounding off the corners of the brass tabs- and painting them white. Super strong without adding much weight, and hopefully if one of the brass pieces ever fractures, the 2nd will be strong enough until the problem is noticed and repaired.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0626_zpsye7whxax.jpg
Views:	355
Size:	300.9 KB
ID:	2113974   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0629_zpsxbvyjkcf.jpg
Views:	342
Size:	132.1 KB
ID:	2113975  
Old 08-11-2015, 01:54 PM
  #136  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default



Covering the fuse. I tend to go with very simple covering schemes. The fuse also has clear plastic tubing for servo wires, with a strip of LED's glued to both sides.



Earlier in this thread I mentioned getting tools to make servo extensions. I've learned from experience that you don't want that red handled tool. This set from Hanson Hobbies is much better. Their servo pins are much higher quality, too, and their wire seems to have a higher silicone content in the insulation. It is much more flexible and easier to work with. I also like to label everything to make life easier later.



Here is a shot of how the wing looks on the fuse. I may add some stripes, but I might not.

Radio wise, I ended up using a 9 channel power safe (overkill I know), powered by two 2100 Li-Fe packs. The power safe system has 3 satellite receivers, 14 gauge power inputs for two batteries that are isolated (so if one battery shorts, it doesn't pull the other one down), and a smart fail-on type switch built in.

Ignition is driven by a Tech Ultra ignition battery eliminator. It provides an optically isolated kill switch, with a tripple filtered voltage regulator that draws power off the receiver.

The 2 Li-Fe receiver batteries are on deans ultra connectors and have a velcro seat belt to hold them in. It is really handy to not have to drag an extension cord out to the airplane trailer to charge an ignition battery.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0628_zpsln5ebl1d.jpg
Views:	338
Size:	254.7 KB
ID:	2113976   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0627_zpsfnteqlnj.jpg
Views:	348
Size:	189.2 KB
ID:	2113978   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0632_zpskdzscgle.jpg
Views:	368
Size:	327.1 KB
ID:	2113980  
Old 08-11-2015, 02:03 PM
  #137  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Here is a shot of the cover for the center section of the wing, showing the latch levers and the glide release. There is a piece of ply glued to the structure of the front wing mount that contains the power switch, fuel dot, and the IBEC LED that indicates if the ignition is hot.



In the background you can also see the cowl. Both cylinder heads will stick out of the cowl slightly, and the cowl will be about 1/2 inch wider than the fuse on both sides.



Here you can see the engine installed, and blocks of 1/2" plywood have been glued and screwed to the side of the fuse (covering cut out before gluing) that will serve as hard points for #4 screws and neoprene bonded washers that will mount the cowl.

Windshield is mounted the same way. I'm not sure if it will stay that way, or if at some point I'll try to vacuum form a curved windshield.

You can also see how the wing struts turned out after hitting them with the grinder and paint.

That's how it sits currently. Paint is drying on the cowl, and I'll add some baffeling to force air through the cooling fins as opposed to around the engine.

I've also installed telemetry, and temp monitor for the cylinder head.

CG wise, it looks like it is going to come out very close, or slightly tail heavy, so hopefully added balast will be a minimum.

Finally getting close to being able to fly it.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0625_zpseclq40kn.jpg
Views:	371
Size:	205.2 KB
ID:	2113984   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0630_zps9drq1r4v.jpg
Views:	382
Size:	190.0 KB
ID:	2113985  
Old 08-13-2015, 02:50 PM
  #138  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

DLE 60 run in on the ground. I used an electric starter to spin it with the spark plugs out and choke on, as getting a brand new carb to draw fuel with the pumper flaps dry is always a pain.

http://youtu.be/BfJH1PqKjwU

Leaned out the low needle slightly gave smooth transison.

Also so got some wing bags made up out of that silver rolled insulation you can get at Home Depot. A heat gun and Velcro.

Turned out to be a bigger Pita to make room for the thing in my trailer than I expected.

My friends Tom and Phil were a great help.

Next time I have a day off where it isn't blowing or over 100f....
Old 08-18-2015, 07:02 PM
  #139  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

First flight was out of trim, I think a bit nose heavy, and suggested elevator throw was not nearly enough.

Got it on the ground clumsily and made adjustments. 2nd flight was much better.

http://youtu.be/xHKsd9f0FdU
Old 05-27-2019, 05:37 AM
  #140  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

So probably some of the folks who were watching this thread have passed on from old age.

Anyway, been flying the Telemaster some. Nice flying model, very stable and predictable. I think the DLE60 was a good choice, but I was probably flying the thing faster than it was designed for on the first few flights.

Metal struts were also imho a good choice, and Im also happy with the flaps. Not really necessary but fun. It is floaty, but you can pull the nose up and kinda drag it in.

Finally working on floats.

Old 05-27-2019, 05:41 AM
  #141  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default



Gluing foam core together.
Gluing the ends of the floats together. Used a Woodpecker tool to give glue something to grip, and some 1/4 ply scraps with wax paper to keep the slot for the spine aligned.
Old 05-27-2019, 05:45 AM
  #142  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default


Splicing pieces for the plywood spines in foam core floats.

Here is how the joints turned out for the plywood pieces. Should be pretty strong.

Last edited by JeffinTD; 05-27-2019 at 04:30 PM.
Old 05-27-2019, 05:50 AM
  #143  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default


Gluing angle aluminum to the vertical spine.


So I did the math to put the float step 2 from CG and figured out where the main landing gear and the slot I built into the fuse would line up with the floats.

I cut 3 section of aluminum angle for the rear and 4 sections for the front, roughed them up with epoxy and glued them.
Old 05-27-2019, 05:54 AM
  #144  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default


Foam cut out to accommodate aluminum.


So here you can see stainless screws backing up the glue.

I traced the aluminum onto the float top, and used a soldering iron to remove what I needed.

I will use expanding gorilla glue around the brackets, and epoxy on the rest of the spine.
Old 05-27-2019, 05:56 AM
  #145  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default


Wood pieces installed, with lead weights holding it while glue dries.

So the vertical piece of wood, the aluminum, and the top piece are being glued into place.

Spreaders will be aluminum strip, and I plan to drill and tap through the plywood and aluminum angle.

Last edited by JeffinTD; 05-27-2019 at 04:28 PM.
Old 05-27-2019, 06:00 AM
  #146  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default


Huge water rudder printed by my friend Colby.
Old 05-27-2019, 03:18 PM
  #147  
rich6170
 
rich6170's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Springfield, OH
Posts: 53
Received 8 Likes on 3 Posts
Default











No we are not all dead already! just wanted to see how you were doing on the floats.. It is about time you tried this thing off the water!

Last edited by rich6170; 05-27-2019 at 04:57 PM. Reason: pic too large
Old 05-27-2019, 04:15 PM
  #148  
rich6170
 
rich6170's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Springfield, OH
Posts: 53
Received 8 Likes on 3 Posts
Default



Old 05-27-2019, 04:26 PM
  #149  
JeffinTD
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Dalles, OR
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You really did a nice job on those.
Old 05-27-2019, 05:02 PM
  #150  
rich6170
 
rich6170's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Springfield, OH
Posts: 53
Received 8 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Thanks.. I did have a bit of a problem with one of them. on a hard landing the prop shattered and one end went right through a float. I taped it up for the remainder if the event but had to patch a 1 1/2" x 4" hole when I got home.
Good choice on the foam cores.. I have several sets of them.
Rich

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.