Nice looking Extra. I did a Midwest Extra in that scheme several years ago. You can bring up the gloss level of your paint with a gloss clear coat (compatible with your paint).

Nice looking plane Mark I to used the Dubro glass gear ,while it works good it is heavy. After doing some checking around the other day I happened to measure the gear on my GP 60 sized Extra 300 S and its almost the exact same thing as the glass gear offered by Dubro only its Alum and less than half the weight. I can see a set of these in my near future, but I don't fly the plane often its one I like to take to shows and so forth.
One other thing you mentioned was your paint not being quite as shiny as you would like, I dont know what you used for paint but in the pics it looks to be a good match and heres a helpfull hint you may want to try out.
Good old Wally World has a cheap brand of paint called Color Place spray paint ,one wouldnt think this couldn't be true but the clear is fuel proof after it cures for a week or so. Like all paint keep direct fuel off of course. I would suggest if your that unhappy with the paint job to take some 400-600 wet and dry paper with water and smooth it to a fine finish then spray several lite coats of the clear coat untill you get the gloss required. I have noticed there is a slight color to this clear but its very minute and at a buck a can its a real bargain.
So far I have not found a paint this stuff will react to I have used Krylon for a base automotive paints and so forth. There is one draw back if theres several coats applied it wil dry in a few hours to a point that you can touch it but the flash over sometimes takes a day or two.

And last the engine mount is a easy fix ,measure the thickness of the washers and make a hardwood shim that matches the angle but runs the full length of the mount for complete support to the mount.
Myself I think you have a fine model there and really hope you get many hours of enjoyment out of it. Your the only one that knows the mistakes otherwise from the pics nobody would have guessed it.

What sort of RPM's are you getting from the 120AX with a 16X8 APC Pattern maybe?

I had used a clear coat but it was raining that day so I don't know if that was the problem or just didn't keep a wet edge.
I had originally used the ultracoat paint but it was a bad match and the fuel got to it. What I have now is Walmart Krylon and it matches much better and it seems to be fuel proof.
I will probably redo just a clear coat.
On engine RPM, I just bought a tach and have been playing with it. I have been playing with different mixtures so I am all over the place but am getting between 8500 and 9400 when it starts screeming. The 9400 is alittle high so if I get that more consitantly I will go to a 16x10. I am still a little rich. I now have about 3 gallons though the engine and it flip starts like a dream. Any problems I have had have been my doing but the engine has been flawless. It also idles very consistantly at 1600.
Mark

Mark, 9,400 is some good RPM's providing that its not lean, the reason asked I was wondering just what that 120 AX was like as compaired to a YS 120 . The numbers are close as far as static goes for one of my older SF 120's.
Oh one more thing i'm sure you used a pits style muffler and if so did you have a fuel draw issue.
Thanks for the info Happy flying.

Cyber,
I thought that the YS was a 4 stroke. You know that the OS120ax is a 2 stroke. I would have thought that there would be a big difference in numbers between the two.
This engine has been flawless with about 5 gallons now. Any problems have been my own. I had to cut the reduced ends off the Pitts muffler to get the cowl on so when I went vertical I had fuel problems. I had figured this would happen. I then used hose extensions with the old tips in them and this worked until a hose fell off. I have been able to bend the tips back round and reduced to solve this problem so if a hose extension falls off it won't matter. This thing idles great and usually starts with one flip. Lots of vertical power.
Mark

This one is finished, I have the matching wheel pants but the new owner doesn't want them mounted yet until after maiden. Now to figure out how to ship it out of state without it getting mashed.

Make your own box from cardboard which is available at any UPS store fit things good and fill with peanut foam packing. As a rule I have to send two boxes,but go thru fed ex to send it UPS will cost a fortune.
And also if cardboard is not your bag you can make a crate from wood and yellow freight it, but the cost is going to be up there.

She's done.
If you look at the picture of the elevator you will see that it came off clean. This was due to me installing the pushrods incorrectly. I used metal rods screwed into the end of the inner piece but the junction should have been inside the outer tube. After about 70 flights this inner rod bent and then broke right at the connection. Leaving no connection to the elevator. This allowed severe flutter at the bottom of a downline which took the elevator off. Without one side elevator the other side must have folded as well. It went in at nearly half speed. I only managed to get thethrottle pulled back at the last 20 feet.
I have learned a valuble lesson about pushrods. The gasser I am building now has the servos in the tail. No long pushrods.
Mark

Ah Crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mark786, sorry about the plane. I have built three of these (yes 3, don't ask why) and have had similar problems. On #2 I put 2 servos in the tail, but this added weight and I could never get the servos to move together. On # 3 I use a slick device from Don's Hobby, you may have seen it. This allowed me to reduce servo count and put the one elevator servo mid fus. which resulted in short control linkages.

I will be building the Sukhoi or Ultimate soon and will use this set up again.

Hey guys, one of our fellow modeller needs some assistance. Joe Adair alias diego joe contacted me as he is in need of a set of CG Extra 300 plans to help him complete building his model.

I am quite prepared to loan him mine, but the logistics of my location makes it somewhat difficult. If anyone wishes to help, he can be contacted at [email protected] or just respond here. Thanks in advance for helping.

Karol

Can anyone till me the recomended throws for this plane I got mine built and coverd by my buddy but no tools for the setting. Thank you DS

When I built mine I had to pull up and print the instructions from either Tower or CG site. The throws should be there. I set mine up with ten degrees aileron and elevator both ways and all the rudder I could get. for low rates I went down about fourty oercent. Flew perfectly. The plane required no trim on the maiden at all.

Using the delfection gauge provided gave too much elevator throw for my liking, and after a bit of adjustment I ended up with 9/16" of travel in both directions on the elevators and 3/4" on the ailerons on high rates and all the rudder I could get. On all these I use 30% expo. and the model flies like a charm and is more than capable doing the IMAC sequence.

Karol

Hi, I had a Goldberg Extra 300 for a time.. I used a Ryobi gas engine for a while and then I changed for a Supertigre G-2300 ring. It flown like a jet. It was wonderfull see it doing snaps rolls, lomceaks and a lot of cools maneuvers, but I have to tell you to be carefull with flat spins. This plane perform beautiful spins and flat spins but you must be ready to get the plane out of that maneuvre. In my case I did a flat spin, and it didn't recovered, hitting the ground in a flat rotation. These are pictures of before and after the accident.

Sorry to hear that you lost your model, but tell me, what was it's flying weight with the Ryobi gas engine and then with the ST 2300.

Karol

With the Ryobi engine it just flown well but it had problems with the air flow to the carburator producing power loss when using the cowling. For that reason I changed to G-2300. That was a perfect choice because the plane flies like a jet, powerfull maneuvres and very realistic performance. With the Ryobi I felt like the was always just over the stall but after the engine change and until Saturday I really felt like it was the best plane I ever had.

Now I'm thinking to repair the plane. Let's see what happen with that.

I hope you won't have problems with your plane.

Good look and happy flying

Sebastián

Thanks for the reply but you forgot to mention your model's weight with both engines.

Thanks also for the good wishes for my model which is eleven years old and is now powered by a Ralph converted G23, and at 10 lbs is a joy to fly and is a fantastic performer. Possibly the best flying model I have had/flown.

Karol

What a small world. I did mine in the #3 Chile air show team colors. It is now 10 years old and currently with a Saito 150, it is a great flyer. As you said, it is the best flying plane I have ever had. Mine is getting tired from being flown a lot over the years. I ran across a new kit at a good price and will build a new in the near future.

During it's lifespan mine has had a few upgrades, such as a fiberglass cowl, wheel pants and an aluminium landing gear, as the original wire/balsa l/gear arrangement had seen better days. Every so often the entire model gets a complete going over to ensure that it's structural integrity stays intact, and of course the occasional polish and shine up.

Karol

Sorry for not telling about the weight. Look my plane is scratch built. Let me tell you how it born. When I was still at school I've worken on summer in a hobby shop to get money for my hobby, the I get the plans of this plane and I decided to build it as cheap as I could. SO I went to one of those stores where you buy everything you need to make homeworks as drillers, wood, saws, etc... For that reason the fuselage was a little over weight. Then the wing was made with foam (not high density) with balsa spars and sheeting...MORE OVER WEIGHT. So... I hadn't weight my models but it was a stone... Any person who had llift the plane said "ohhh, It's too heavy".

That's the reason why I changed to g2300 but the Ryobi in first time was youst buecause I wanted a gas plane with a cheap engine (a lot of people said it was ridiculous to install a gas engine in this plane... that it was too small... It flies well with any powerfull engine).

I guess my plane weight around 11-12 pounds when it crashed.

I'll try to weight the pieces of the plane.

OldScaleGuy... can you post pictures of your plane?

I got very similar responses when I decided to put the G23 in my Extra. One of the good things about our hobby is that everyone is free to use their imagination and experiment with various inovations rather than just sticking to the convention of the tried and true situations.

Maybe if you decide to rebuild it, the next time around you will more than likely end up with a much lighter and even better flying model.

Karol

Here is an older scanned picture of my Extra when it was still almost new (just one year old). The digital pictures I have are on an old computer. I can take some more if you would like.

I figure that both you and the Extra are a bit worst for wear now, but your model looked very nice back then. It would be nice to view some more pictures from yesteryear.

Karol

I guess that the best part of BUILD an airplane is BUILDING by yourself. But I mean building.
When i built my extra I only had the plans without any spars, ribs or formers so I was quite dificult to start the plane... but when you look if taking off for the first time you say "I built that plane" and nobody can say that he had the same one