Spencer: Are you going to use dual aileron servos? If you are, it sure makes it easer to fish those leads out if you have the paper tubes. Only a suggestion.. Fred123[&:]

I've got to agree with Fred. First off, please do the dual servo conversion. I've flown a Hog with and without the conversion, and the difference is night and day. It's well worth it. Also, definately do the paper tubes.

Ken - Don't worry, I will not maiden the plane till you get a chance to get up here. It is the least that I can do since you have been so much help.

jspencer - Looks like I will get my chance to be sore after Saturday. You guys have a really good facility based on your location. It makes me feel guilty showing off ours, but you can see some pictures of it on our website:

http://www.americanturfflyers.com

Look under the picture gallery and you can find some pictures of our field. The pics are on Page 4 and are older, but it does give you the layout and there are others scattered throughout the different picture galleries. Oh.. and the videos are good too.

69chevelle- Good looking bipe. I like the colors of the covering, very nice!

fred123- Thanks for the reminder to put the paper tubes in for the servo wires. I probably would have remembered, only just after I finished covering and was trying to hook up the aileron servos lol. I got the paper tubes in and they are ready to go. I will cut the hole in the top of the wing after I get the fuse done and can mark where the fuse fits on the wing.

RCKen- I tried to tach the engine when I ran it the other day, but I think that the batteries were almost dead as I couldn't get any rpms less then 3500 at idle and the high end was reading 8800. I know the low end had to be around 2200 as it was purring like a kitten. I did do the dual aileron servos, but I put the bays on the top of the bottom wing for various reasons, mostly maintenance and accessibility. I know that some people say that a single servo can handle the 4 surfaces, but no way. This is my 9th or 10th plane and I'll be throwing it around a little and will want the response and authority that the dual servos will offer.

Hooked- That is a nice field you got there. No need to feel guilty, I'm sure that a lot of members have put a lot of time and money into the field and that is why it looks the way that it does. We get use of the land for next to nothing since it is in such high demand lol and it keeps the membership dues down. There are two or three other clubs in the area, the nicest is in Nampa about 15 miles away [link]http://www.nampamodelaviators.org/home.htm[/link] (and attached picture). They fly in the middle of two golf courses and have paved and grass runways. They also have water and power, two things that we don't have at ours. The dues are a little more then I can afford right now, but if we build a new house it will be the closest and probably where I will do my flying, which will be nice since grass is a lot easier on the birds then the bumpy paved runway that I currently am using. It will just make me a better pilot I guess.

On a build note one of things that I noticed is that a must for building this plane or any plane that requires a lot of shaping of the LE and TE is a razor plane. I finally picked one up and it has definitely been a time saver. Also it required that I sand a lot less. Hooked I know that your TE got a little thin in spots and my top wing did as well. On the bottom (got tired of sanding) I used the razor plane and it then required very little sanding keeping the cap strips and TE at a more acceptable thickness. I'm going to have to go over the top wing and fix a few of the thin spots on the cap strips and TE.

Everything has gone together nicely and seems to line up just like it should. I worked on the fuse last night and when I first got everything dry fitted in place I looked down the spine and was a little unhappy [&o] at how the top spine was not lining up (Later determined that this was mostly due to the fact that the rubber bands just couldn't hold it in place tight). I started gluing the bottom plate in and making sure that things were lining up and I was getting a tight fit at the joints. When I finished both sides of the bottom the top spine was almost right where it needed to be. I then started glueing the sides and stab mount to the formers and everything just fell into place and now it is all lining almost perfect. I've still got quite a bit left on the fuse, but should be able to make some more progress tonight. At some point in the near future I'm going to need to get some Ultracote and come up with a trim scheme as covering time is rapidly approaching. I'll post a few more pictures tonight sometime.

Would monocat hinges be O.K. on all control surfaces?

Robert

Well Hooked, I finally decided that I was going to try to cover the headrest rather than paint it. The first problem was how to hold it while you heat and stretch. I was determined I was going to do it with a single sheet. This was my first attempt at so complex a shape. So here is what I came up with. I lined the inside of the headrest with plastic wrap and filled it with plaster of paris, holding a piece of light ply. After it had set, I removed the plastic wrap put it all in a vise and got started. While the results are not perfect, I think I got a better job than if I had tried to paint it. Installed it just like we do canopies...Fred123

Fred123-

That's looking good! I'm using a razor plane and carving the headrest out of a balsa block. It is taking a little time, but I think it will turn out good. It also looks like the covering job is nearing completion and it looks great.

I asked Ken a question on the throttle linkage but he is using a newer Surpass then me. Here is what I came up with. The cable comes through the firewall just below the fuel tank tray. I will have to route the cable under the tray to the throttle servo, but that will be the easy part.

I was unable to use mine with the throttle arm down. It would mean the cable would need to go through the motor mount. Turned it up, which places the exit point just below the deck sheeting above the tank. Think it should work ok..Fred123[&:]

fred123 that is just the opposite direction of what I did, but same line of thinking, if that makes any sense. Looks like you will have your bird in the air in the next week or two.

I just finished sheeting the turtle decks, took about 1/2 hour to form the sheeting and then just waited for it to dry and cut it to shape. To get the sheeting to form to the shape I just ran warm water over it for a couple of minutes to get it good and soaked, then I started shaping the sheeting a little with the warm water running over the sheeting. After about 3 or 4 minutes I had the sheeting to the shape of the deck, then just taped it down and let it dry. While it was taped down I marked the point on each edge where I needed to cut the sheeting, cut it and glued it down, piece of cake. This was the first time that I tried this and by far has worked the fastest and the best.

fred - I appreciate you posting pictures of the covering of the headrest and the process that you used. I am probably going to build mine out of balsa block. I still have a way to go and can always change my mind, but that is my plan for now.

jspencer - If you could post a picture of your balsa block headrest I would appreciate it.

As indicated, I am pretty much on hold for about a week or two here. I might be able to get the fiberglass cloth on the bottom wing joint, but my hours are pretty much comitted. The first of my out of town guests will get here a week from today and then all will be here by next Thursday. Between now and then, I am still running the numerous errands that need to be done to get ready. It's hard passing the workbench each day knowing that I am not able to spend any time there. I am looking forward to getting back on track and will be able to do so when everybody goes home.....

Actually, after reading this again, I thought it sounded like I was pretty bumbed...well only on the building part. This is a pretty happy time for us. We have been working toward this day for 22 years now and we can see that our efforts have paid off. I know how tough it is to raise a child, and we are very pleased that he will get a good start on his future. Chances are good that he may have a job already, so that makes this time even more special.

Hook: Know what you mean. We did it for three. Also, I gather that he is at Norman. I am an old boomer sooner engineer from the class of 64..Fred123[&:]

I knew there was something good about you!!! (other than you're being a Hog Bipe builder of course)!!

RcKen: Does that mean you are also an OU grad. an engineer or just born the day I graduated?? Fred123[&:]

Fred,
I'm a transplant to Oklahoma. I went to school in Missouri where I grew up. And yes, I did get a degree in engineering, metallurgical to be exact, although I've never worked a day in it. Decided to join the army instead. Was stationed here in Oklahoma when I messed up my back and was discharged, decided to stay here in Lawton and start a business. I've adopted to OU since I live here. What's funny is that my son want to be a veterinarian, so he'll probably go to OSU!! [:'(] To be totally honest, I cheer for both schools, until Bedlam then I'm for OU!!

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

Hooked-

I'll post a picture of the headrest tonight sometime. I got a balsa block that was just big enough for the height and width (just turned out that way), and the length was about 3" longer then needed. I transfered the front of the headrest onto the block by tracing it. I also outlined the shape of the bottom onto the bottom of the block. The side profile was the hardest to transfer to the block, but I got it close enough and once it is sanded smooth you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the original and the one that I made. I've got the general shape now, but still need to transfer the shape of the rear turtle deck to the bottom of block for mounting and carve that out. Then I'll just need to do a little more planing on the top and sides and it will be ready for final sanding.

Ken & fred123 that's too funny, make that 3 engineers on this thread, I'm an electrical.

robert85614- I wouldn't use monokote for the hinges as you would probably have to change the shape of the LE on the control surfaces to do so and strength wise it would be lacking. If one of the edges of the hinge covering started coming up when in flight, it could get ugly real fast. I thought about using clear monokote to cover the hinge gap, but if you use CA hinges you won't have much of a gap. I may still decide to seal the gap once I've covered it and see what it looks like, but for now I just plan on leaving it as is.

on the headrest. I did the same thing and carved one out of balsa. I HATE plastic on my planes. So I did the same thing Jspencer did and carved it from balsa. After you get it carved use a dremel to carve out as much of the inside as you can. It will make it easier to mount, and save a small bit of weight.

on hinges. On my Hog I used CA hinges and then I sealed both sides of the gap with monokote. I've gone away from using CA hinges now (I use Robart hinge points now), but I still seal both sides of the gap with monokote.

Ken-

Now if they would make cowling out of balsa or something that monokote will stick to that would be nice. I hate using paint and covering as they never seem to match.

Are CA hinges what is included with the kit? I have to stop by the LHS on the way home, maybe I'll have to pick some Robart's up.

Jspencer,
No what is included in the kit are plastic hinges. Sig calls them "Easy Hinges". I had to buy CA hinges extra.

RCKen: Help, Help...Do you have any tricks for installing the windshield?. I am using formula 560 glue and have cut out a 1/16inch strip of covering to give the glue contact with balsa. Looks like I would only need to clamp it on the very tips for the glue arc to make contact. However, it turned into one big mess with glue everywhere.. Thank goodness it is water soluable. The Plexiglas is so springy it is very difficult to hold in place.. What about a screw at each point of the windshield, or is there a way to form the Plexiglas so that it would hold its shape? Fred123[&:] P.S. Tried the screws, and they worked great.. Sometimes it helps to talk about ones problems...Fred123

Fred,
Ok, here you go, here is how I mounted mine. Like you I hate the cements and haven't ever been able to get a good result with them. I use a screw at each corner of the windscreen (cut by the template on the plans), and then I use monokote to hold the windscreen down. Cut a strip about 1/4" wide and use your trim iron (or a regular covering iron set at a lower temp) to apply the strip. Put the strip on with 1/8" on the plane and 1/8" on the windscreen. You may want to practice on the scrap first to make sure you don't get your iron too hot, but trust me this works great. This is how I mount the canopy on all of my planes.

I've attached 2 pictures. The first one is from my hog bipe, but I couldn't get a very good shot of it. The second pic is from my Slow Poke. I mounted the windscreen the same exact way so you should be able to see what I am talking about.

The edit was because I accidently hit ok before I uploaded the pics. here they are

Ken-

Did you put hardpoints in for the screws or did you hit the former that is in that area?

RCKen: I went ahead and used the glue. I have had good luck with it on my SE and 4*. The screws are just holding the windshield in place until it drys. They only go into the 1/16" sheet so won't hold much . Couldn't get them low enough to get into the plywood. Will probably leave them in place though. I will trim where the windshield meets the deck with Astrokote.. Fred123[&:]

Well, I am an engineer as well.. I don't have the sheep skin on the wall, but I engineer voice systems from PBX's to IVR's to 800 Toll Free Networks for large corporate clients. Small world...I went to CSU - Colorado State and any Oklahoma school was a bitter enemy. Those were the days of the Big Eight and when the WAC really was the WAC..if you have been around awhile, you know what I mean. In those days, I swore that no child of mine would ever go to an Oklahoma school...well you know how that is...never say never...

He is already working at OU for the Oklahoma Climatological Survey in the Meteorology Department. He does website design and online documentation. He is graduating in Graphic Design and already has a Lab Manual published that he did the illustrations and graphics in. The publisher gave him two copies and a full cover without the manual inside. He even has his name mentioned in it and the cover photograph is one he took. And if that isn't enough, he may,,,may get to work for them full time. His boss says he is "cautiously" optimistic. It's all down to budgets...like I haven't heard that one myself. We are having an open house the weekend that he graduates, and will have a copy of the manual out for people to sign rather than a guest book. That was my idea Here is the web page on Amazon.com where one can buy the manual. It is a lab manual for meteorology students and my son is mentioned twice in it. You can probably tell we are real proud of our son.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...books&n=507846

Hey Guy's I have a question. On the windscreen, I was having the same quetions, but have thought of a way that might work to hold the thing in place. What if I were to leave a square tab of the clear on the outside edge of the windscreen, cut a small slot in the balsa for the tab to be slipped down into, and then shoot some CA in the slot? It would be something similar to the cabane struts where they go down into the side of the fuse. It is just a thought, but I might try it...just wanted to see what you think.

BTW: Can't remember who asked it, but it was on how I was going to run the antennae for the RX. I am mulling this over right now and may just run it up straight through the headrest block then back to the vertical fin. I think this would give it a realistic appearance based on the type of aircraft and the time it represents. If I don't do that, I will simply bring it out the bottom of the fuse in front of the tailwheel assembly.

Hooked,
The only problem I can see with the "tab" on the windscreen is you need to seal the front of it, otherwise th wind is going to try to lift it up and tear it off. That's why I put the monokote on it to seal it down. I've been using monokote to attach canopy's for about 6 years now, probably 8-9 different planes. Never had a problem.