I will try to sheet the wings this week and do other things as I can . Oh the suspence is killing me !!!!! Looks like the Evolution gasser is going on the nose of this baby!!

Well, Got down to work and did a little sheeting today. Lets take a look.

Pic 1 shows the wing laying on the balsa sheetingI am getting ready to cut the sheeting to size and I am allowing 1/4 inch overhang on all sides.
Pic 2 shows the cut sheeting and notice how I labeled everything? These wings look the same top and bottom but there is a true top and bottom. I thing its a good idea to lay some cling wrap down to protect the shucks and to keep the wing from sticking to them.
Pic 3 & 4 shows the sheetingand some more labeling
Pic 5 shows the wing fully guled and sheeted on both sides and placed in the shucks with 30 lbs of weight to sandwitch everything in place. Now lets talk about how I got to this step.
After I cut the sheeting to the size of the wing with a little overhang >NOTE< ( On the first wing I allowed 1/4 inch overhang all around I found this to be the minimum overhang.On the next wing I allowed 1/2 inch. This is better) I used Gorilla glue and with a plastic card I spread it real thin all over the sheeting. Then rubbed a wet towel over the wing itself. placed the bottom sheeting in the shucks then placed the wing on top. I spread glue on the orher wing sheeting and dampened the top part of the wing. Place the sheeting on the wing and make sure you have the correct amount of overhang. Place the top shuck down over the wing and add the weight to hold everything in place.
When you fool with Gorilla glue the stuff expands a bunch so you need to allow for this.I had 30lbs of weight to hold a 34 inch wing down and this stuff was powerful enough to move the wing off the sheeting. You have to keep an eye on it and reposition the sheeting on the wing. This glue does not take long to set up to where it will stop expanding. 30-45 min depending on weather. Here in Tennessee its real humid so this glue expands alot. Keep an eye on it!!!!!
Pic 6 shows the glue at work!!!
Pic 7 shows the fully sheeted wing.

More to come tomorrow[8D]

I am closely following this thread since I have a G & L Chipmunk on order. I was wondering if you could use Gorilla glue for gluinfg the formers, etc. to the fiberglass fuselage?

I would definitly say yes. Make sure when you get it to wash it good with a mild soap inside and out to remove any mold release. then scuff the area good where the former goes and spray a bit of water on one side and glue the other. should foam up and real nice and hold well. I used 30 min epoxy I got from Hobby Lobby craft store, mixed micro baloons in and stuck it.Rember if you use it to sheet the wings keep and eagle eye on it cause the foaming will move the skin around and get it out of place.it takes 30 - 45 min for it to set and most of the foaming to stop. I am sure the build will be very close to this one and if I can help you pm me . I have seen this kit at Gregs and it looks like a nice kit. He does top notch fiberglass work . The build is faster than a wood kit and weighs about the same.

Just let me say thats NICE......
You've come a long way in a short period of time ,from a trainer to this.
WOW you had some great teachers .....................hehe
looks great.

Well I did not do much building this evening but I did do quit a bit of sanding. Getting everything ready to install the leading edge and trailing edge.I will be using Titebond carpenters glue to install a piece of 3/8" balsa to the leading edge and a piece of 1/4 " balsa to the trailing edge.Hold it together with t pins till dry.
Greybeard, I will try to get some photos in the next nite or two showing how I will do the servo pockets. I have a spiral cut routerbit that should route a nice clean hole. I figure I will have to freehand it.

Well not much to report tonigh.[&o]
I did manage to get some pics though
[img][/img]

As you can see in the pics is the results of gorilla glue. I guess if I were to do it again I would use a lite coat of epoxy to sheet the wings . look in pic 3 and you will see what I mean keep and eagel eye on it until it sets up . the foaming action of gorilla glue will move the parts around as it foams. I had 30 lbs od lead weight and it still moved and I missed it. NowI have to scab a piece of balsa to cove this area. One thing though if you let the sheeting hang out 1/2 inch you can omit the 1/4 " trailing edge piece. As in pic 4 & 6.
Pic 5 showes the leading edge fully sanded and installed with titebond glue. I am having to think hard about how to drill stright holes in the fusealage to accept the aluminum spar and fit the wings to the fusealage.

Irglnman, IMHO, the sheeting that shifted was probably not the fault of the GG, chances are it moved when you put the weight on top. (Ask me how I know:-) If you are only using 30# of weight to put pressure on the skins to the core I feel that you would be very dissappointed in the result if you used epoxy. When I used weight to skin wings 100lbs+ is what I used. This sounds like alot but now I use vacuum and that is easier to control and is a more pressure that is evenly distrbuted over the surface of the wing. Once you try vacuum you won't want to go back to weights. (That is till you get a bag with a leak) That's why I still keep the weights around as a back-up.

Also I will use masking tape to hold the skins in place before I draw a vacuum or put the weights on.

Thanks for showing your build, Good luck.

MTY

thats great advice Champ.If I do many more of these a vacumn bag setup I will get. So far this is the only way to build kits IMO. I like the way the gorilla glue works ,Its just a learning curve.

If you are sheeting with weight you need to use minimum 300-400lbs to get a decent bond, especially with polyurethane glues. I know this sounds like a lot, but pulling even just 5" of vacuum (just under 2.5psi) will put well over 1000lbs of force on one wing panel of the size you are working with. Without crushing the foam or causing any other issues. The only issue with this much weight is that your table has to be strong enough to carry the weight without sagging. Better options than weight are vacuum (as mentioned) or using a press to apply even force.

The best page I have ever seen on sheeting foam cores:

http://www.mackrc.net/patternwings2/index.htm

Terry Brox is a master at it and his workmanship is superlative.

Mark

Wow, what A site. I never have done any real work with foam core so this site is A blessing to me. Thanks.

Great site!! Just the info I need to make my next set of ings. I think I can get by with this set but will follow the steps on that site on my next set of wings.

lrglnman
Are you done yet ?

No, I have been delayed the past couple days. may get to do something tonight or tomorrow

Well, I got around to building a bit more this evening. Lets see my progress.

[img][/img]

On this peticular kit the wing tub holes are made into the fusealage. all I needed to do was drill a pilot hole with my center hole locater . Then I cut a small piece of my wing tubing to use as a marker. I then drilled holes in both sides up to a 1/2" drill bit. Then I used the Drimmel tool and a sanding drum to finnish the holes. I ended up with a very snug and perfict fit. Also on the inside of fuse, where the tube slides in I doubled up with some hard ply to help hold the tube steady. In the last pic showes a nice fitting wing tube!!!
And to think this did not take long at all.

[img][/img]

That G&l Hobbies kit is really shapeing up there good james. I see from your last set of pictures you have the wing in place. Did you haft to trim the root of the wing it to fit the side of the fuse like I said you might haft to? Wasn't to difficult was it? Just a little more work in building and you will be ready to fill and sand and do some painting. Excellent build thread. This should help alot of builders with these kits and some others that greg has in his inventory. They build all about the same except the larger models have a two piece fuse but basically the same. I can't wait to get my EDGE- 540 in the air. I think the next build I do will be his 50% Pitts or his 50% Cessna 182. Good job on the build.
Steve M

Steve, I made some good progress this weekend. I will post pics later. I got both wings leading edge done . I also got one wings aileron cut out and ready for Robart hinges all I need to do is install the root cap to finish it off and cut the servo pocket and tunnel out for the servo wire. I will be using a aluminum arrow shaft that I sharpened on one end to cut the wire shaft out instead of melting it out. All I have to cut out is about 13" or so. (Steve wrote) "Did you haft to trim the root of the wing it to fit the side of the fuse like I said you might haft to?" Yes I had to do some sanding to get the wing to set flush with the fusealage, but it didn't take alot. I ended up with a nice fit. The 50% Pitts may be my next one as well maybe we can do one together !!!! That would be a great built thread huh? !!!!!

Got some more pics to look at.

Pic 1 showes the wings installed, sanded to fit the fusealage and the wing tube cut to length.
Pic 2 showes the aileron cut out and test fitted .
Pic3 showes another view of the wing cut with the aileron.
Pic 4 After the aileron is cut from the wing I glued a piece of balsa to the aileron and sanded it to a point the length of the aileron.
Pic 5 showes the wing with balsa glued and sanded to a point as well. this will give me increadiable throw on all serfaces. It will be there if I need it or not. The plans did not call for this but I thought it would be a good idea.
About all I like on this wing is the root cap and hard points on the aileron and cutting out the servo pocket and hole for the servo wire. which I wiil do in the next few nites.