Candy Kane Build Thread
#1

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It's time to start another Q500 racer.
This time it is Kevin Matney's "Candy Kane". The model is a fiberglass fuselage version of Danny Kane's "Hurrikane".
This model offers proven performance and the strength of fiberglass.
My fuselage weighed in at 7.4 ounces and comes with the firewall installed.
Here is a link to Matney's Models:
http://www.matneymodels.com/q500.html
Kevin is a seasoned builder and can offer the model as a wood kit or composite. He also ships overseas, should there be a need.
This time it is Kevin Matney's "Candy Kane". The model is a fiberglass fuselage version of Danny Kane's "Hurrikane".
This model offers proven performance and the strength of fiberglass.
My fuselage weighed in at 7.4 ounces and comes with the firewall installed.
Here is a link to Matney's Models:
http://www.matneymodels.com/q500.html
Kevin is a seasoned builder and can offer the model as a wood kit or composite. He also ships overseas, should there be a need.
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Begin by making or buying wing skins.
Mine are made from 3 pieces of 1/16" x 4" x 48" lightweight balsa sheets for each side.
They have been taped together and each side is now 10.625 inches wide.
I've taped 2 sides together and will use the hinge as the leading edge.
Mine are made from 3 pieces of 1/16" x 4" x 48" lightweight balsa sheets for each side.
They have been taped together and each side is now 10.625 inches wide.
I've taped 2 sides together and will use the hinge as the leading edge.
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Here are pictures of getting ready for vacuum bagging:
I use a layer of 1.6 ounce glass inside the sheeting to provide strength and a thin trailing edge.
I piece of vertical carbon fiber sheer acts like a spar.
A 3/4" wide piece of 7 thousandths carbon fiber is located on the bottom of the wing between the cores and sheeting.
I use a layer of 1.6 ounce glass inside the sheeting to provide strength and a thin trailing edge.
I piece of vertical carbon fiber sheer acts like a spar.
A 3/4" wide piece of 7 thousandths carbon fiber is located on the bottom of the wing between the cores and sheeting.
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A carbon fiber leading edge is fabricated using several pieces of carbon fiber tow.
Finishing epoxy was applied to the carbon fiber tow and vertical sheer.
Approximately 1 ounce of finishing epoxy was then mixed a side of the wing. This was drizzled on and then spread with a plastic squeegee.
The other side was done the same way.
Finishing epoxy was applied to the carbon fiber tow and vertical sheer.
Approximately 1 ounce of finishing epoxy was then mixed a side of the wing. This was drizzled on and then spread with a plastic squeegee.
The other side was done the same way.
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The leading edge was trued and shaped as needed.
The trailing edge was trimmed to bring the cord to 9 7/8" wide.
The wing weighs in at 9.55 ounces with the carbon fiber leading edge.
The trailing edge was trimmed to bring the cord to 9 7/8" wide.
The wing weighs in at 9.55 ounces with the carbon fiber leading edge.
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I used the Sam-Rai wingtip as the pattern.
Trace the pattern onto contest grade (very lightweight) balsa.
They were cut out using the jig saw and were glued on using Gorilla glue.
Wet the surface with water prior to applying the glue.
Tape the wing tips in place.
I applied a little too much glue and it foamed outside the joint.
It is easier to remove the extra before it dries
Trace the pattern onto contest grade (very lightweight) balsa.
They were cut out using the jig saw and were glued on using Gorilla glue.
Wet the surface with water prior to applying the glue.
Tape the wing tips in place.
I applied a little too much glue and it foamed outside the joint.
It is easier to remove the extra before it dries
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Wing tips are being shaped in the following pictures.
They were initially brought to the same contour as the wing airfoil.
Next was marking a 1/2" area with a pencil.
This was followed by rough carving at about a 45 degree angle.
Sand tips to a nice contour.
They were initially brought to the same contour as the wing airfoil.
Next was marking a 1/2" area with a pencil.
This was followed by rough carving at about a 45 degree angle.
Sand tips to a nice contour.
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A layer of fiberglass cloth (1.6 ounce) was then laid on the surface of the wing.
This was followed with an additional layer over the wingtip. This helps beef them up so they don't scuff and break easily.
Two more layers of cloth reinforce the wing center section. I used an 11" and 8" wide piece.
This was followed with an additional layer over the wingtip. This helps beef them up so they don't scuff and break easily.
Two more layers of cloth reinforce the wing center section. I used an 11" and 8" wide piece.
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Approximately 1.5 ounces of finishing epoxy was applied per wing side.
A cap full of 91% alcohol was added in the epoxy to thin it out.
A plastic squeegee was used to spread out the epoxy.
The other side was done the same way.
A cap full of 91% alcohol was added in the epoxy to thin it out.
A plastic squeegee was used to spread out the epoxy.
The other side was done the same way.
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The wing is then placed between layers of peel ply and placed in the vacuum bag.
After most of the air is removed, the vacuum bag was placed between the wing shucks.
Weights were applied on top to hold parts in place.
The vacuum was then turned on and parts were then allowed to dry. The pump pulls about 6" of Hg vacuum.
After most of the air is removed, the vacuum bag was placed between the wing shucks.
Weights were applied on top to hold parts in place.
The vacuum was then turned on and parts were then allowed to dry. The pump pulls about 6" of Hg vacuum.
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Trim off the outside edge of the vacuum bag to remove the caulking prior to separating the wing from the peel ply.
Make sure the epoxy is fully dry and not tacky before separating the layers of fabric.
I used a sanding block to trim the excess fiberglass cloth from the edges.
The surface of the wing was later lightly sanded with some 220 grit paper on a sanding block.
Make sure the epoxy is fully dry and not tacky before separating the layers of fabric.
I used a sanding block to trim the excess fiberglass cloth from the edges.
The surface of the wing was later lightly sanded with some 220 grit paper on a sanding block.
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Earlier, some test holes were drilled to check the location of the wing dowel pieces. The holes are where the plywood pieces are glued.
The rear blocks and landing gear blocks were glued in place with medium CA.
The front blocks didn't attach flush to the provided 1/16" plywood plate and therefore were glued in place with Shoe Goo.
The rear blocks and landing gear blocks were glued in place with medium CA.
The front blocks didn't attach flush to the provided 1/16" plywood plate and therefore were glued in place with Shoe Goo.
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Here are a few more pictures showing the aileron installation.
A mixture of finishing epoxy and microballoons was used to fill the gap.
A mixture of finishing epoxy and microballoons was used to fill the gap.
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In a couple hours the epoxy microballon mix was dry enough to shape.
I used a scrapper blade to remove the majority of excess mix.
The wing weighs a respectable 15.85 ounces at this point.
I used a scrapper blade to remove the majority of excess mix.
The wing weighs a respectable 15.85 ounces at this point.