Thanks Bob will start them on Saturday

Alan

Can anyone show me how they mounted the air rams for the front gear so that they are removable I case needed
i have chosen the 2 door option
thanks

Izzy

I know pic bad but all I can do at moment, I used 2 or 3mm fibreglass board (cannot remember thickness) but I used Hysol glue to glue two nuts on back on board then bolted ram bracket to the fibreglass board then using Hysol glued the whole assembly into position. Once dry I just use a Allen key to remove the bolts leaving plate and nuts in place, this makes it easy to fit the bolts back in when re-fitting ram assembly. You can only see one cap head in picture but you get the idea!
2nd pic shows the door assembly which is ran with small Hitec MG thin wing servo, there is a pic of this way back in thread that shows it clearer.
Most of work probably about 99% of what I have done is on the thread and of course all the other guys have posted pics of what they have done as well. Might be a good idea to spend a evening going through the pics

Alan

Errr...You pop the C clip off, the pin comes out and the rams follow? ;-)
A large flat screwdriver is all that is required-though my 4 year old Hawk has never had the need. Robart rams spec'd are just about the best available...

Dave

As Dave said cylinders are very good, yes you can take C clips off but a damm sight easier to just remove two small cap head instead of C clip I guess depends if you have small hands

Alan

Yeah, I replaced the C clips and pins with screws and nylock nuts. No biggie either way just looked like it would be hard to get at the c clips with my big meaty paws. My cylinders just sit on a blob of Hysol.

Here is a pic, dead simple! A little Bondo dust, putting the probe on.

Does anyone have advice for applying the Tailormade DET cord to the cockpit glass? On my first try mine did not turn out well, it was crooked and in a couple spots the sticker became doubled over and I had to make a few cuts. Obviously it is tricky since the decal sheet is flat and the glass is curved... Maybe there is a trick to doing it well?

Use water/washing up liquid mix that way you can position MDC anywhere you want and gradually use tissue to asorb etc

Alan

Sorry yes I peeled off the MDC off backing paper and then the just lay the MDC into the canopy, the soapy water stops the MDC sticking to the plastic making positioning possible...

Thanks, I found instructions on how to do it on the Tailormade Decals website. They make no mention of that liquid solution. I have used water/liquid detergent solution for big stickers, but does the "MDC" stick well enough to the canopy through the solution to pull away from its backing sheet? Or do you just have to squeegee the water away and wait awhile for it to dry before lifting the backing off?

I used plenty of soapy liquid from a spray bottle and then when finally in position, just lightly dabbed with paper towel to pick up excess liquid around the decal. Definitely a procedure I would not like to do again. They haven't come off yet.

I've always done them dry, I mark the centre on masking tape (outside surface) and the start/finish. I then cut the side of the retaining paper (comb fashion) and start with it formed into a U. Place down one end and work back...its fiddly!
Water method is fine, its super sticky and will easily displace the water.

Bob

Have got your strobes underway...

All finished, will be in the post for Saturday...

I will be making some more PCB's for the lighting system towards the end of November if anyone else requires them, I know a bit later than I expected but I had a new garage roof to put on...

Alan

Bob

Will be in the post to you today...

Alan

Alan,

Those look great, thanks!

Bob

Another question for the Hawk experts.

We just got our deacl sheets from Taylormade, and they are fantastic looking!

However, there are a *lot* of them and I have no idea where most of them go. Do you guys know of a good source for info as to where all of these markings go - especially the little ones?

Bob

Bob


Glad you like the strobes let's hope they arrive in same condition as they left here!

If you go on Ralles site there are some pictures of a different scheme that has details of small stuff '30' years with Union Jack on rudder etc other than that use the pictures on RAF Valley when then painted full size
Also which scheme are you doing I have forgotten?

http://www.tailormadedecals.com/inde...d=29&Itemid=34


http://www.valleyaviationsociety.net..._hawk_2010.htm


Alan

Does the LCM-750 contoller incorporate a strobe function or only regular lights like steady navigation/landing lights? I couldn't find that info. The purpose is to use it in CARF Bae Hawk.
Regards.

I have 22 flights now on my Hawk and have a question/observation about elevator travel and expo during landing. I have moved my CG to 197mm. I have my elevator travel set up as in the manual. I have run from 35 to 45% expo. I find the Hawk handles great during all phases of flight, it is an excellent aerobatic airplane, but it requires a lot of up elevator during a normal flare to a relatively flat landing. Of course the more expo you use the further the stick will have to travel to reach the required throw. But this gets you into a range where small stick travels are giving progressively larger deflections then they would with less expo. So my efforts to make my Hawk less pitch sensitive in the flare by increasing expo have probably made it worse. Next time out I will try lowering the expo with a flight mode switch. Maybe try 25% or 15% or no expo when landing. The Hawk also requires a lot of down elevator travel during inverted flight and outside maneuvers so that phase of flight would probably benefit from less expo as well. I am not going to flip a switch when going "outside" though. Maybe a lot of expo is not such a good idea with these flying stabs...

Alan thanks again for the pitot probe. I flew with the probe yesterday and it looks very cool! On the ground of course but even in flight (it was a sunny day) we often saw it flashing a reflection from its mirror like surface. I wish there was a pub around we could both go to because I would be buying!

Glad you like the probe it certainly finishes the nose off, looks even better with the lighting kit on as well
Thanks for your offer!

I will be in PA and CA next August!

Also I run as much elevator as possible with around 27% expo, if you have seen video of my first landing I just did not pull back enough on landing got away with it but realised when you bring the Hawk in nose down then you do need a fair amount of input to flair, well mine did...
Hoping to get some airtime with it in December if weather allows.

Alan

husafreak

Why not put a change of expo on a mix on your landing gear switch that may sort out the flair problem.

Mike

Yes I could do that. I just want to hear what kind of expo guys are running. I did have to remove some material from the fuselage to get the travel specified in the manual.

Ok. Maybe I messed up. I made a hole at the fuse side of the fin for the servo to go into the body. But there is a strip of wood going from the front to the back that ended up being cut in the middle.
How critical is it. Has anyone made the fun removable for transport. Pics??

Mine didn't have any wood there. They give you the measurements of where to cut in the manual.