MRC THUNDER KING picture/info gallery
#1

Thread Starter

I thought I would post a bunch of pics of these super8scale (14" wheel base) MRC kits for those of you that have them or are wondering about them, some are mine that have been seen before and some are friends kits... enjoy
#5

Thread Starter

Hi, the two factory super8scale truck bodys were made by parma for MRC, they are designed for 14 inch wheel base kits. If your local hobby store deals direct with MRC then they should be able to order one, if not call MRC direct or you can call parma.
#6

Thread Starter

I will post some of the old factory MRC mag adds/info again all in one place this time... good reading for those that are interested. In the past a good few companys made aftermarket goodies for them too. MRC had cool T shirts and a cool promo vid also, might try to get it down loaded to the net.
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hollister,
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I own the electric version, well parts of it I sort of srtipped it down over the years. That truck was super tough and was fast with twin motors. The only mod I did to it was add dual steering servos.
#10

Thread Starter

Here is the factory MRC part/price sheets/contact info that may help some of you. These sheets came in all new kit boxes.
#13

Thread Starter

Hi, for people that are interested in these kits I am going to start uploading all the pics for now of mods, tips/tricks I have saved for these kits over the years in seperate posts in this thread and LATER ON I will edit and add more tech info to the diffrent posts...
I have farted around with many diffrent ideas on these kits in the past that some of you might get a kick out of...
I have farted around with many diffrent ideas on these kits in the past that some of you might get a kick out of...
#14

Thread Starter

CHASSIS TWIST/TORQUE BRACE...
This mod will help keep gear alignment and make the rear of the chassis more ridged. Makes for a real nice boost bottle mount also.
This mod will help keep gear alignment and make the rear of the chassis more ridged. Makes for a real nice boost bottle mount also.
#15

Thread Starter

FACTORY WHEEL MOD FOR WIDE M/T TIRES...
With extra factory worn out/broken or even new wheels, wider wheels can be made by cutting up and pressing the parts together and c/a glueing afterwards so most big m/t tires willfit correctly.
With extra factory worn out/broken or even new wheels, wider wheels can be made by cutting up and pressing the parts together and c/a glueing afterwards so most big m/t tires willfit correctly.
#16

Thread Starter

WHEEL PINNING/TRIMMING OPTION FOR M/T TIRES...
To help stop the hexes from spinning in high h/p kits they can be pinned using small hobby store ready rod, use a small correct sized ready rod sized drill bit, drill through the center of the rear wheels through the hexes on each side and press in a short length of ready rod, use a bit of c/a glue after wards to help hold the pins in.
Also for some foam filled tires, the inner tire bead lips could be cut off if needed to help the movment of the tire on the rim.
To help stop the hexes from spinning in high h/p kits they can be pinned using small hobby store ready rod, use a small correct sized ready rod sized drill bit, drill through the center of the rear wheels through the hexes on each side and press in a short length of ready rod, use a bit of c/a glue after wards to help hold the pins in.
Also for some foam filled tires, the inner tire bead lips could be cut off if needed to help the movment of the tire on the rim.
#17

Thread Starter

KYOSHO TORSON RACE DIFF MOD OPTION...
What can I say, a $300.00+ dollar trick... not a cheap mod
I made spacers for the smaller bearing on the kyosho diff to fit in the NTK housing, but I remember checking Boca bearing afterwards and I think they had a proper sized bearing that would of worked too. The gear I used on the torson was a stock delerin NTK gear that had the center melted out of it because it was run to loose which fit just right with a bit of triming, I used j/b weld to fill in the gap on the inside of the gear and used set screws to bolt it on. If I remember right the key to using this type of diff was to use a diff with a max of 24mm center diameter which this on is so it does not interfere with center tranny gear.
What can I say, a $300.00+ dollar trick... not a cheap mod

I made spacers for the smaller bearing on the kyosho diff to fit in the NTK housing, but I remember checking Boca bearing afterwards and I think they had a proper sized bearing that would of worked too. The gear I used on the torson was a stock delerin NTK gear that had the center melted out of it because it was run to loose which fit just right with a bit of triming, I used j/b weld to fill in the gap on the inside of the gear and used set screws to bolt it on. If I remember right the key to using this type of diff was to use a diff with a max of 24mm center diameter which this on is so it does not interfere with center tranny gear.
#18

Thread Starter

65T MONSTER PIRATE SPUR GEAR MOD OPTION...
When there was a shortage of factory spur gears for the nitro TK, we started to use the 65 T ofna monster pirate gear which turned out to be a better gear because it was a bit smaller 65 toothe VS 67? for stock, this gave a bit more clearance under the a arm support block which is helpfull. all we did was cut a washer spacer from lexan to center the gear and used set screws run through the gear to hold the rulon pad on. I am sure with so many 8scale kits out now today even other kits gears could fit too.
When there was a shortage of factory spur gears for the nitro TK, we started to use the 65 T ofna monster pirate gear which turned out to be a better gear because it was a bit smaller 65 toothe VS 67? for stock, this gave a bit more clearance under the a arm support block which is helpfull. all we did was cut a washer spacer from lexan to center the gear and used set screws run through the gear to hold the rulon pad on. I am sure with so many 8scale kits out now today even other kits gears could fit too.
#19

Thread Starter

17T FACTORY CLUTCH BELL, FLYWHEEL PIN, SHOE MODS...
A punch can be used on the clutch bell to help stop the gear from spinning on the bell if needed.
An extra bearing can be installed with a spacer to help with the bearing load.
One size larger hobby store ready rod can be used to upgrade the smaller fly wheel pins, compleatly drill out the factory holes with the correct size drill bit and hammer in the bigger ready rod with a bit of red locktight on them, cut/grind to correct length afterwards.
The factory clutch shoes can be modded/played around with if needed by drilling some holes in them to make them lighter, the spring can also be shortened 1/8, this will give a higher rpm engagement on the clutch if needed.
A punch can be used on the clutch bell to help stop the gear from spinning on the bell if needed.
An extra bearing can be installed with a spacer to help with the bearing load.
One size larger hobby store ready rod can be used to upgrade the smaller fly wheel pins, compleatly drill out the factory holes with the correct size drill bit and hammer in the bigger ready rod with a bit of red locktight on them, cut/grind to correct length afterwards.
The factory clutch shoes can be modded/played around with if needed by drilling some holes in them to make them lighter, the spring can also be shortened 1/8, this will give a higher rpm engagement on the clutch if needed.
#20

Thread Starter

FACTORY/AFTERMARKET TUNE PIPE MODS...
The factory tune pipe can be shortend on its end a 1/2 to 3/4, this will help with tire clearance and a bit more top end.
Using a ofna header #10061? will allow any tune pipe to be used.
The factory tune pipe can be shortend on its end a 1/2 to 3/4, this will help with tire clearance and a bit more top end.
Using a ofna header #10061? will allow any tune pipe to be used.
#22

Thread Starter

FRONT A-ARM/BULKHEAD SUPPORT MOD...
These kit should of came from the factory with one of these but one can be made easly with cheap hobby store stainless straping, cut, trimed, drilled and mounted. It makes a huge diffrence in the abuse the front bulk can take.
These kit should of came from the factory with one of these but one can be made easly with cheap hobby store stainless straping, cut, trimed, drilled and mounted. It makes a huge diffrence in the abuse the front bulk can take.
#23

Thread Starter

SIDE DIRT GARD AND SPUR GEAR GARD MOD...
This mod really helps keep the dirt and rocks out of the chassis pan and can help protect the gears. Any scrap lexan or plastic can be mounted many diffrent ways on the chassis sides.
This mod really helps keep the dirt and rocks out of the chassis pan and can help protect the gears. Any scrap lexan or plastic can be mounted many diffrent ways on the chassis sides.
#24

Thread Starter

FACTORY NTK BRAKE AND THROTTLE LINKAGE MOD...
One of the biggest problems we ran into with this kit was the factory linkage/tank setup, it was a headache to deal with for many guys so we turned the fuel tank around and came up with a cheap $1,50 linkage solution... happy days LOL
This is one of the most important cheap mods that needs to be done on the NTK. I really hate to say it but someone must of been taking bad drugs the day they came up with that factory linkage lol. Someone really dropped the ball on that day lol.
One of the biggest problems we ran into with this kit was the factory linkage/tank setup, it was a headache to deal with for many guys so we turned the fuel tank around and came up with a cheap $1,50 linkage solution... happy days LOL
This is one of the most important cheap mods that needs to be done on the NTK. I really hate to say it but someone must of been taking bad drugs the day they came up with that factory linkage lol. Someone really dropped the ball on that day lol.
#25

Thread Starter

FACTORY BODY MOUNT LIFT MODS...
The top of the factory mounts are excellent for using add on body post from parma or others, a lexan spacer can also be made to use between the factory mounts. This mod can really help when mounting odd bodys like a grave digger body or simular.
The top of the factory mounts are excellent for using add on body post from parma or others, a lexan spacer can also be made to use between the factory mounts. This mod can really help when mounting odd bodys like a grave digger body or simular.