AFTER the hurricane ima run my RUSH!!! lol ima put the engine back on it and use it its bein sitting around for to long LOL ill let you guys know how my day goes i ordered a 22CB for it (i wuz useing a 18 before) agaist everyones recomantions!!!! everyone tolled me dont put a 47 SG and when they saw it move all i got was ooooooooo aaaaahhhhhhssss i think the .18SS engine can take it (i ported it big time) it took that 18/47 conbo like noting!!!! i cant wait to see what will happen with the 22/47 also i have smaller tires than before i have street tires now??? what effects do you guys see happening?????????


PS 1/2 pound holy crap!!!! if it make u happy that all that matters but just as a refrence i have a spare .12 CV lieing around and the full engine PLUS the mount PLUS the header is EXACTLY 1/2 pound................u had a good idea but i think it would be better to get that same copper tubeing u used and jsut bend it into shape instead of useing all those joins peices and soldering!!!

Bending a single piece of tubing would be fine if you have a mandrel bender that will do 1/2" or smaller tubing. beyond that bending 1/2"tubing in that small of bends will create kinks in it that will not allow for the smooth flow of the exhaust. ergo you have to use the premade 90° pieces.
I am going to make a smaller diameter one 3/8" and try it to see how it works on my rs4.

I think I am running too rich myself, but the problem is I go 300+ degrees with just a little wide open running. I have gone back to factory setting many times and tried to start back over. what do you run in general for a idle setting, I don't think there is a factory setting for it. I start 3 out on the high end, and flush with the low end. But the screw underneath the air filter I have never found a factory setting for it..........but I have tried it just about everywhere and anywhere

Did you look in the manual as I think there is a setting for idles in it as well as the rest of the needles? Starting to wonder if you have an air leak?

hello evrybody!! i am another complete beginner to nitro rc cars. i had the rush evo 8 mnths ago for xmas. i absolutely luv it!!! !!!! nobody i know has one! plus, as i live in the countryside in north Wales, there's plenty of off-roadin to do. but there isn't a race track or any competitions nearby. i drive my evo hard. i have bent one of the front threaded shafts, around the engine is completely clogged with dirt and mud, the exhaust sound like its full of gunge or sumthin and the shell is covered in cuts and scrapes from when its flipped off gravel ramps. lately i thought i better spend a little money on it to protect from future bumps annd crashes and to treat to some TLC. a few questions (i apologise if they're completely dumb, but as i said i'm a beginner, i know nuthin )

1. can i use a general purpose oil, like WD40, instead of shock oil?
1.a. were do u put the oil?
2. thinking of replacing the stock springs, i use high ramps a lot, i crash a lot, i drive on gravel, sand, mud, grass, concrete and general rough terrain, what kind of setup should i have? what do you recommend?
3. i have no experience with building kits and don't know how to take a rush evo apart. But is it easy enough to install graphite rear and front shock towers, for a beginner?
4. how do u replace a tyre?
5. what tyre is best for on-roading and off-roading in your opinion?
5.a. what about hpi v groove pro compound tyres? and yokohoma geolander tyres?
6. do u know of any other changes or aditions i should make 2 my truck for it 2 run better and stay in good condition?

please help me. I'D APPRECIATE IT SO MUCH IF SUM1 COULD REPLY AND TELL ME WAT TO DO!![sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif]


P.S. i do not want spend too much on things that break or wear out to quickly.

First welcome to the forum.

Every time I race I get mine nasty but clean and service it after each day of running. Even if all I do is bash I clean it. VERY important to keep the air filter clean and oiled!

DO YOU HAVE A MANUAL? If not you can go to HPI web site and down load it for free.

You should only run silicone shock oil in the shocks and you fill it from unscrewing the top. For bashing I recommended 30-weight shock oil and no more then 40. You need to check the manual out on how to bleed the shocks.

For bashing I would think the stock springs would be fine.

I think these little vehicles are very easy to work on but do not know your ability so it hard for me to say how easy it will be for you but I recommend you go for it. This is how you learn.

Most of the time when I replace tires I replace the wheels, as most of the time when my tires are shot my wheels are all beat up but here is a link on how to get the tires off.
http://misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/bo...ling-tires.asp

As far as tires being I do only run off road I do not know what to recommend for both off and on road. Most people that run both have to sets of tires one for each.

If you do not want to spend much money then I would not get any carbon fiber parts. Sorry but this is not a cheap hobby.
Have other question ask.

EVERYONE CONGRADULATE ME AFTER BEIN IN THIS HOBBY FOR ABOUT 5 YEARS FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER I RE BUILT A PULL START LOLOLOLOLOL it was the pull star from my first engine of my first car RS4 2 with a .15FE lol i had bought a new one for it but saved the old one for a day like this..............GOD A HATE PULL STARTS but im starting to get use to them since i acutally know whant i em doin now!!!!!! lol


On another note CONGRATS and welcome to the forum!! belive it of not when i first join RCU this topic was my first every forum.........i think back in page 46.......anyways i got few answers for you for starters so i dont get me HEAD BITEN OFF everyone has there own opinions i have my rush set up with 6 shocks not 4 since i never liked the way the rear dropped and i have 50 WT oil in my shocks all around plus 4 of the shocks are ultra firms ( blue springs) i used this set up so i can jump my rush over my SUV and it held up great and never botomed out .........about the carbom fiber upper deck i HIGHLEY recomend it its very strong and it so light compaired to that stock plastice thing its not even funny........... it comes with instructions to show you how to install it with out takeing apart the hole car............ i used to use those yokohoma tires and they work great on the street and off road id still use them but i completely destroyed the rims hexs and didnt feel liek takeing them off the rims so i just got new tires......... my rush is set up for street use now here is a pic of how it use to look when i use to jump it over cars LOL

PS what engine are u runing the stock T-15??

If you read his post he was talking about the CF shock towers and not wanting to spend a whole lot of money. Like I said I only run off road but if I run very heavy oil in any of my off road vehicles I just blow the shock caps or seals all the time. Off road vehicles are designed to bottom out on big jumps for a reason. But everyone has there own thoughts.

46u has hit it on the spot, i run my trucks so they near botton out... u have 2!!...

wot is the point of a truck that jumps, lands and bounces over..lol??.. run lighter shock oil and ur car should handle the landing better.... my savage lands like jelly.. and my evo and all my cars.. ha ha

Hi all! Just got back from Niagra Falls tonight, we were down there for 2 days - didn't take my rush tho, no place to run it.

Just before we went tho, I got a bunch of parts for my truck - the CF towers you were talking about, Aluminum Rear brace, the Firm (not extra firm, those are Purple) Blue shocks, HD middle gear, and a couple other things. I pulled the truck completely apart, and cleaned it all (it was filthy), and it looks great now. I'll post some pics later when we get our good computer back (my card reader is USB 2.0, this system only has USB 1.0)

THANK YOU EVRY ONE FOR YOUR HELP!!! I'M NOT WORRIED ABOUT SPENDING A LOT OF MONEY, IJUST DON'T WANT TO BE WASTING IT ON PARTS THAT BREAK TOO EASILY. I HAVE BEEN DESIGNING A TRACK I COULD BUILD FOR MY OWN USE IN THE BOTTOM OF ONE OF OUR FIELDS. I'LL SCAN IT AND SHOW U. I JUST TAKEN OFF THE WHEELS FOR VERY FIRST TIME. INTRESTING TO SEE WHAT WENT IN THE BACK AND HOW FILTHY IT WAS.

do you know any free adjustments i could do exept tuning the needles?
there's a lot of gunge in the exhaust and it comes out if i tip my rush on the side. what's the best way to take it off and to clean it?
is it worth getting the shock towers?
what should i do if i want more torque?
any tips on how to do a great jump and then land well without flipping like mad?
what's best, buy a suspension set or replacing the coils?

i want to make big jumps but i dont want to feel like i'm killing my car evrytime it goes wrong. any suggestions?

i hav uploaded sum pics. i spotted 3 holes for the suspension wat will happen if i use a different one? what's the best way to clean my exhaust, can i do it without undoing the ties? is the damage done to the underneath bad?

yes i hav the stock t-15

you know that usb 2.0 is backward compatible with 1.0 right? so you can use your card reader with it (the difference in speed is not even noticable to normal computer users)

So far ive never blown a shock cap running my system and ive DONE LOTS OF JUMPING i know for a fact if i put the heavery oil and only 4 shocks id blow them like crazy tho......... one updrade u should do and you would be very happy with is get a new engine get the OS .18 CV-RX it had twice the power of your stock engine and it will last for ever!!!! lol and it only 100 american dollars (i have no clue how much it would be in the UK) its a very good engine and im sure everyone would agree with me on that


PS i recived the heavery duty middel gear yesturday (as a back up i didnt need it) its some pretty stiff stuff its made from carbon graphite not plastic liek the shock one.......i bought 3 of them.so i can use the rush for ever ther eliek what 3 or 4 bucks each??? lol to bad there isnt an aluminum one.......

I have the heavy duty middle gear and have stripped a couple of them. On the Rush it is VERY important to have your slipper set properly or you will take out something in the transmission. It is not like my MT and Savage where I run them tighten all the way down with out problems.

welshjam if you are not wanting to spend much money I sure would not get the CF shock towers and in stead get a good tuned pipe as the stock composite one is not very good. The bottom of your Rush looks good as on my MT, which I run much more then my Rush has about 90% of the color knocked off.

I agree, that chassis looks fine. Mine has about 50-60% of the colour scratched off. I'm thinking about just sanding the rest off, and make the chassis silver.

About the shocks, do you HAVE to run silicone shock oil? what if you run something else, like, uh, 2 stroke oil?

I would only run silicon shock oil, as the viscosity will not change during temperature changes like regular oil this is why shock oil is made from silicon. So in my opinion yes only run shock oil but yes I guess you could run something else but I will not in mine. Being I have been a motorcycle mechanic and machinist for over 30 years I believe in running the proper stuff for the application.

I can see where you're coming from when it comes to heavier machiery like motorcyles. I, for one, have seen it happen. We bought a boat a few years back, and the guy who owned it before us used something called "bowl grease" in the outdrive instead of Gear lube, and the upper bearing slowly ceased over time, and one day, it shredded, chewing all the gears in the top end. the mechanic at our marina said that it most likely was this "bowl grease" or whatever he put in that caused the bearing failure.

HOWEVER, to me, that is an extreme case, where the proper fluid MUST be used, or catastrophic failure will result. I didn't feel that using 2 stroke oil instead of silicone oil would cause that kind of failure, and the old oil was disgusting - anything was better than that stuff. I do notice damping changes in the shocks in different weather, but I'm not too worried. As long as they're lubed, and I remain a basher, that stuff wil do the trick for me. Also, I've noticed an improvement in the problem of losing bottom shock caps.

is the slipper clutch that big black wheel with loads of teeth and what does it do? wat does the spring do?

What ever works!

Yes and the slipper is to give a little slippage to help protect the drive train like when you land form a jump or hit a good bump. To loose and it can melt the gear and to tight it will not give the protection to the drive train. This is VERY important on the Rush!

are cf shock towers wrth the mony though. wat tuned pipe do you think i should use? i took off the wheels, tank, exhaust and that black thing that the transmitter is on earlier so i could giv it a good clean. slowely feeling more confident in taking it apart. i want to buy sumthing to put on my rush evo just to enjoy fiddling about!!! btw my brakes don't work very well wat can i do to make them better?
and the left front ball cup keeps coming off after small bumps, anythin i can do to make less fragile? i hav also found the "suspension arm set" (according to book) there are four holes in it i take it that these are used to change the angle of the wheels, is this right and should i change holes? and any1 know what the holes are for at the very top of the front shock tower, as shown in a picture in one of my last posts? are sway bar sets any good on a rush evo? is there a lot of work to do wen installing new engine? should i install blue springs at the rear and yellow at the front?

how do u know if it's loose enough or tight enough though?

could i use Maximzer Beadlocks on my rush evo so i could change from off-road to on-road tyres without glue???????

tha shock towers are not worth it there would be if they would be thicker........ but there pretty thin they break easyly in a bad flip over since there so britil the CF upper deck is a good idea tho to take some fatty of the car changeing the engine is not hard at all it will take u about 15 minuet to swap the engine..........my slipper is set so u can see about 1.5MM of tread sticking out behind the bolt and ive always left it there and ive never had an issue with breaking anything in the tranny hopefully others can u get there input.........about the spring........YES put the blue ones in the back u wont really need the front ones but yes in the back you lov the diffrence.......