I think I have solved that problem. I'm using the same straps that Emory is using to hold down his 3 lb battery packs. Big huge velcro straps with a buckle. If that breaks.....sheesh I dunno.

Yeah, that Andersonville snap will be a legend 20 years from now. LOL man that was violent.....

-Mike

Is this strap a home made deal or can you buy an where? Got my balsa today an ready to do the belly an top. Any good tips on getting the balsa to bend before breaking.

I got mine at Ace hardware. 16" heavy duty velcro straps, with the buckle.

Yes, there is a trick to the wood on the turtle decks. Wet it with water and ammonia, and make sure the center piece is A-grain. Then you can bend it over on itself and it won't crack. It also holds the shape much better when it dries.

Ok, I'm going to get some sleep and head out to nashville in the AM. See yaz there!

-Mike

PS Dean bring the video camera....

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See ya all in Nashville. . . I won't be getting there until around 6pm. I have two boys to pick up from school and can't depart the fix until 2:45. . .
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Dean,

Just tweaking you with the "normal" jab. I know how the Mac guys love their computers!! I'm sure Microsoft has copied more stuff from Apple than the other way around. . .
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Thanks Mike, doe's anybody know the mix ratio on the water an ammonia an once wet should I glue it in wet or put it in the foam an let it dry to that shape

Arch,

We'll try them on yours for a test.

What's your recommendation for the landing gear?

Thanks

Mike Shih

Here is the link to the post on that

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4652201

Thanks Petec !

Mike Shih

I know you will say it is buried somewere deep in the thread,yep it is because I can't find it. In the wood package there are 8 peices,2 each of lite ply marked D-1-2-3 an 4, were do they go? Can't fine on planes or should it be something I should know.

Ok This is Mike's wife, Melissa.. The D-1 through D-4 doublers are shown on page 3 in this thread. (But are not marked as D-1-4) D-1-4 is your lite ply doublers that goes on the inside of the fuse (drawn on the plans but also I knoticed not marked with the D1-4 but is drawn on there , just look at the plans you will find or locate ever piece ) 1 goes front wing adjuster doubler in fuse side , 2 is wing tube doubler in fuse side, 3 is the back wing tube adjuster doubler in fuse side and the D-4 is the stab adjuster in the fuse side ... you will have to cut holes in all pieces for tubes and adjuster holes .

Hope this helps.
Melissa

Thanks Melissa,
What I did was read the page three tread on doublers an cut them my self before I looked a the parts in the bag, Old age, slipped my mind. Thy are already in, if not I would be in real trouble by now.

I HATE it when she wears my skin like that!!!!

Anyway, I was just at PAC and they have all or most of the Bolly gear and pants in stock at a slightly lower price.

The web site is [link=http://www.precisionaerocomposite.com/]Precision Aero Composites[/link]

Tell Maureen that Mike sent ya.

-Mike

at least she lets you come out and play when you want!!

gary

Ha Mike,
Like I said before I am new at some of this. On the canopy do I fiber glass it ,it is mighty thin, an what about the cowel an belly pan? Plus where the belly pan meets the bottomturtle deck how are these conected togther, Do I have to make a former of some tyoe that wood fit inside of the end of the belly pan.

Did you glue on that belly piece? It looks too far back. You're supposed to cut it back at a 22 degree angle, and line the front up with the bottom of F5.

So if it's glued, then at this point yes you need to make a former and adjust for it. Make sure that face slants away at 22 degrees (or more) for cooling. Otherwise it hits a straight wall at the back of the pan.

Other than that, looks good. No you do NOT glass the canopy and belly pan and cowl, they already are composite. Just clean them with soap and water and alcohol. MEK works great. Then lightly sand and fill pinholes, prime and paint. They are meant to be "flimsy" compared to smaller planes. They aren't really even structural components.

I'd strongly suggest (no matter how painful) to read through this thread and find the portions that you are about to do, then make sure you understand before you cut and glue. I understand this is new to you, so that's all the more reason to make sure you do it right the first time. You'll make mistakes, heck I make plenty myself.

let me ask you, you DID read the part where the fuse sides at the center lines are 63 3/8" for the right and 63 5/8" for the left? If not, there's your problem. Your nose is too long. nothing that can't be fixed or adjusted, but it will play havoc with the belly pan lining up. And since you're not using a heavy engine, there won't be any balance issues either.

Ok gotta get back to work.

-Mike

No it's not glued,just sitting there.Yea I have the right measurements on tyhe left an right fuseage sides for the right thrust.Right were I do the trimming for the pipe exit on the belly pan.I understand what to do there but how is the composite belly pan fit up against or joint up againt the other. Could you post a cople pic's of the aft end of the compositebelly panon an off the plane.

No pics handy, mine just overlap the belly piece.

Make a former if you feel like it. It makes a cleaner install.

-Mike

I put a former at the back of the belly pan - you can see it back way back on page 18. I used light 1/4" contest wood. It fits really flush and I think I'll add acouple 1/8" carbon rods to align it with the front of the rear lower turtle deck...

I think you should add the former - as it will help support the plane when you have it in a stand or cradle.

Thanks Mike.
Just order a gear from Maureen with slightly lower price.

Mike Shih

Lets us know if you make Huntsville, Al on the 9th an 10th of Sept. Would like to check your planes out an your flying.

yea, I think that sounds good on a former in there,I cut out the cowel for right spinner to cowel spacing. It looks like I will need a 1/2 inch spacer, that sound about right to you for a O.S. 140

Nope you have to trim at least 1/4" off the cowl where it meets the firewall. That leaves a 1/4" spacer. I think I trimmed 3/8" off mine and I have a 1/8" spacer. It's not that critical, but you do have to bring it back at least 1/4". It's molded that way so the edges can be trimmed true to the plane.

And yes I'll be at Huntsville, cya there....

-Mike

Mike, Just as a stupid question, is there any reason you went for a foam cored wing as opposed to a built up wing?

Do you think it's lighter in the end to go with foam or was it just a question of building ease?

Not really certain at this point. I'm sure a built up wing is lighter and most likely stronger overall, but it is a pain in the butt. hence the foam cores, it was mainly for ease of building. So I got creative to take some weight out.

-Mike