HELP Mike,
I have sanded,cleaned sanded asitone sanded,windened sanded, thinner sanded sanded an cleaned an cleaned an cleaned, An the paint just will not stick to the belly pan in places. The canopy did great,. It looks like what I use to call fish eye.What else can I do?

Try a different batch of paint? Sure looks like surface contamination, though.


Mark

Did you use soap and water? The release agent is water based, acetone only removes petroleum based release agent. Denatured alcohol works well too.

-Mike

This is the bad part about trying to do a build thread, and write instructions when you can't remember every single detail (I'm taking notes though!)

Post 333:

"Trim the scoop as shown. Wash with soap and water and alcohol thoroughly, and rough up the mounting flanges with 80 grit sandpaper. Clean again. "

Not sure why I didn't mention that in the beginning, I plead guilty to assumption. It's sort of standard practice so I didn't make a big issue out of it.

But to clarify on the composites:

Wash ALL parts in hot water and detergent of some kind. Rinse and repeat a few times to be thorough. After it dries rub it down with alcohol. Although I have used acetone before, I prefer a good automotive wax remover and degreaser. If in doubt, wash again and again.

Sand lightly and prime well. leave a thin layer of primer on the composite part before painting.

And just to make clear, right off of the label of the release agent we use (as well as wax): "Wash cast parts with hot water and detergent before attempting to apply surface finish. Several washings may be necessary depending on amount of release agent used".

Just so you'll all know what I'm reading too. I do it automatically and I could have SWORN I wrote that somewhere either here or in the instructions (which are getting revamped by the way).

My apologies.

-Mike

Me ,this belly pan an this Monticote paint are about to start world war 4. Plus Central Hobbies no longer have the y shaped motor mount for the 140RX. It will be as you say Mike the ugly mount with the stright neck, it looks just like that mount but for the O.S.

You're kidding!!!!!!!! You gotta post a pic of that mount. I can tell you right now, I don't like it. Never seen one like that before...

Is that lustrekote you're using? I've seen mixed results with it. I used it once, never again on anything except maybe ARF wheel pants.

So did you clean the part with soap and water, or just acetone?

-Mike

That is something I most of the time don't do, follow directions. How ever this time I did to the letter an more. My wife asked me what I was fixing to do, told her I was giving this thing a bath in hot water an dfifferent det. NJext step is the gray auto primer, after that I don't know. An on moter mount will post pick in couple days when I get it.

It's definitely a chemical reaction of some sort. Since paint usually doesn't hate epoxy, it has to be a reaction with something else. Could be the mold release was heavier than normal. I'm not sure, I haven't had that problem, and have yet to hear of anyone else having that problem. It's possible the Lustrekote is contaminated. Unlikely, but possible.

Let me know how it comes out. if it comes down to it, I'll send you another belly pan (scrubbed clean before it leaves, then you do it again...)

Also I'd really like you to post a pic of that mount when you can. I still can't believe that...

-Mike

I had that exact problem once before, but it wasn't a problem with the part or lustrekote. I was spraying primer on a plug and I had water in the system. It did exactly the same thing.

Just troubleshooting...

-Mike

Auto Zone truck paint, its cheap and goes on well, and fuel proof

I use PPG, never had a problem.

I always wipe my parts thoroughly with automotive wax and grease remover about 30 mins before spraying, so it can dry. Just before I spray I go over the whole thing with a tack cloth. Wet cleaner is just as bad as anything else.

That being said, I'm not an expert at finishing (YET!!!)

Welp gotta go get some practice, just changed all the servos in my plane. This could be interesting.

-Mike

By the way, I hope you don't feel like I'm being defensive or picking at you Wendell, I understand completely that most of this is new to you and I'm trying to help.

I'm working on putting together some DVDs on construction (very detailed) and I am taking notes so I cover everything. And I mean every detail I can think of.

-Mike

Mike,

Do you have your airframe weights handy for reference (just the airframe without engine or gear if possible)? I know they are somewhere back in the previous 26 pages or so, but that is a project to scan back through to find...


Thanks,
Mark

Mike is right (again). The surface is contaninated with something not compatible w/ the paint. Just go down to the auto body supply house and get some wax and grease remover (Dupont name is Prep-Sol) and always use that first. I have never had a compatibility problem after using this stuff. Also, the grey primer in tha spray cans is not fuel proof and can bubble if fuel gets to it. It also does not stick all that well directly to fiberglass. You really need an epoxy primer that etches into the part and will hold. PPG or Dupont or generic stuff all works. I tried rattle can grey primer years ago and it would always crack and bubble up after a while. It will stick fine if your part is primed in the mold because the glass already has an epoxy primer on top of it.

O.K I went with a Red colored auto primer, but frist I cleaned with everything under the sun an then something different I cleaned with denatured Alcohol an tacked with tack cloth an it is about 85% better.Thank for the offer Mike but a little more elbow grease an I think I will have it. As the two pic's show what direction will the landing gear need to lean forward or to the back an on the turned pipe an header will that have to be covered with something so my name want be change to " FLAMING PLANE " you know what I mean.

Hi Wendall,

the gear needs to sweep/lean aft. I am not sure what you are referring to but there is no need to cover the gear, there is no worry about a "flame hazard"

Hey it was nice meeting you at hunstville. I'll be flying my V1 BM gain this weekend getting ready for jacksonville. My V2 is finished sitting pretty on bench waiting for finish paint - after our districts I will be busy painting and building a second. Between flying and working I have had little time lately to finish my V2.

good luck Wendall looking forward to seeing your finish product,

dean

What I mean on the header an pipe,do they need to be covered with some kind of heat resestant matereal so the balsa don't get to hot in the belly pan aera.

no - it's not a problem

Mike right now I don't care how ugly you say that mount was, This one is a dream come true, Just joking. The nose ring is about a 1/4" shorter an a perfect fit Can grabe engine shaft an no matter how I pull or twist there is no movement to say of.

Well cool, I'm glad you got that worked out. In the papers/package that came with that mount, what is the exact model number? That's just bizarre. And if you feel like weighing it, that would be great too.

-Mike

The scales I have are used for weighing 100lb. feed sacks with, That # is HCMO140ARIA.

How about a picture of the front of the mount? I have an ARIA and it doesn't look much like yours.
Thanks.

Dave

It dos'nt. Acording to Central Hobbies they dont make the folked type anymore

Thanks,but how is the Nose Ring attached to the aluminum support? Your picture seems to show only one bolt.
And if two bolts do secure the nose ring,the nose ring must be configured differently.
A frontal picture sure wouldbe nice.

Dave

Would you believe JB weld?

-M