Mike will a template be provided for honeycombing the wing cores? Also are you still using spruce in the wing cores i noticed they are no longer in the materials list. Anyways expect money from me within two weeks

Dennis

Yep I still use spruce, but now it comes in the kit along with a balsa/carbon laminated spar as well (for the rear position).

As for the honeycombing templates, no they don't come with the kit, but I can be persuaded to make copies from time to time....as time allows....

-Mike

Dang now that's a quick reply.

Dennis

Mike:if I use the o.s.1.60 an I put two mini servos in the stabs the wing must be moved forward? futaba 9650 is o.k. for a half elevator? and for one aileron 9550 is good?

I wouldn't move the wing if you put 2 servos in the tail, it should be just about right.

I'm not an expert on Futaba servos, but I'm sure Arch or someone will come along soon and guide you in the right direction [8D]

-Mike

Need some help Mike, I need a set of cores for one of my other projects a Daddy rabbit. Could you give up the cutter you use

My cutter is me...personally.....here in the shop, all made in-house.

Do you have templates? If so I'm cutting a bunch now and a set of wabbit wings shouldn't be too hard. But I need the airfoils, tapers, measurements, etc.

I'd ask in the classic pattern forum, I think Dynamic Balsa might be able to help you out easier (and a lot quicker) than I could....

-Mike

ampa: 9650's in the tail and 9550's in the wings would do just fine. They're both great servos. I don't have much personal experience with it but people have reported some wear in the metal gears of the 9550. You may want to try some 9154's or 9150's if you think this is significant. I haven't had a problem with them personally and they are in fact more powerful and faster than the alternative but you may want to keep the gear wear in mind.

Happy Flying

hahaha, guidance you ask, guidance you shall recieve, i love the internet..

thanks brett.

see you in houston this weekend.

Chuck

Ampa, personally I flew the 9550's and at the end of the year, they did start to get a little sloppy. I know a lot of guys are running 9151's on ailerons. I've been running the 9154's, but am seriously considering going to the 9151's for next year. 9650's are great little servos and you'll have no problems running them on elevators halves. They are going in my Black Magic stuff.

Arch

Contact Dennis Hunt I think he is building a bunch of rabbits now...

Dennis has them In the mail.

" Powl " I thought my muffler came off again. As you'all know when that happens you lose all engine power, an I did. So I brought it around dead stick for landing an the closer it got the more I could see. Just hangin there by the throtle cable. Now that is O.S. Power. 91 4s

Wow, you scared me...I thought that was your Black Magic for a second! It still sucks, but it could be worse....looks repairable though.

Maybe it's just fate telling you it's time to build another V2

-Mike

Hey All,

In an attempt to get this thread back on Black Magics (sorry Wendall)

Now that the season is over... and it was a great season of flying in D3, I think I did 8 or 9 comps this year. It was great to spend some time over the weekend working on my new plane. It's seems like its been months ?

I completed all the small things on my build and I am ready for filling and final sanding. Here are some detail pictures of my scoops, pushrod exits, fin fairing etc. I'll have the time in December to finish. I am leaning toward installing my new 160 DZ instead of a good 140L. After seeing this plane fly with the 18" props on the DZ, well it flies a lot like the electrics. Plus I would also have the 4-blade option.

I am actually in need of a good running 140L. The 140DZ that I was running in the prototype blew up on me during the very last round of the D3 meet. I installed my really sweet 140L in the prototype., which I plan to keep there. I do have a few flights with the 140L and it is strong and really fast with a 15.5x12w. I do need to reprop it slower.

Also Brian sent me the high res version of the districts photo and I was able to crop it really well. just had to share it. The prototype flew really well for me.

I know I keep saying that : )

cheers!

Dean

Two questions:
Does anyone have drawings,or a source for the design, of NACA ducts?
I'm told that the ramp(s) are important.
Also, on the BM, I presume they're for lower crankcase cooling? The entries look a little far back don't they?

Handglider: Is your rudder larger in chord than shown on the plans?

Mike's instructions on this have me a bit puzzled. I think he is saying to increase the rudder chord,but I am not sure.

Thanks Both H.G.& Mike

The ducts were designed to provide extra cooling for the batteries on the electric versions. They work VERY well.

I liked them so much I put them on my glow planes. Not necessarily to cool the crank case. They are optional, but come with the kit.

The source of the design? 1985 Chevrolet Z-28 Camaro hood. LOL it ain't rocket science on these.

Somebody mentioned to me that they might be messing with my airflow for cooling once, so I blocked them off; made no difference really. But on the electric, we ran up the motor and checked the airflow over the batteries with and without the Naca ducts. Just a guess by feel, but it they increase airflow by 30% or so. You can really feel a difference.

Rudder question: No the rudder is about the same, you just add a piece of 1/4" as the tail post of the fin, which increases the chord of the whole thing by 1/4".

-Mike

Hi Dave,

the rudder has the "stock plans" cord. I did add that curvy piece of balsa in front of the fin. I did trim the trailing edge a bit to thicken, my trailing edges are a little over 3/16" on elevators and rudder. That is a little thicker than the stock cores. You can see the extra piece of balsa at the hinge line of the rudder to maintain the length. I need to double check my length again. But I was about 1/4" short of 2M.

I am thinking I might add a curved piece of carbon lam behind the ducts to wrap the airflow downward along the firewall. The prototype plane that I am flying doesn't have the naca ducts and doesn't seem to have a cooling problem.

Anyhow the naca ducts just look really cool. and I like that fact that Mikes inspiration is from a '85 Z-28. It's fun filling in the ducts with epoxy /microballons. I need to do more sanding and a little more filling on te ducts, but they are looking great.

Well after the thanksgiving holiday, I'll be kicking up a balsa dust storm. Looking forward to getting paint on this beauty.

I guess I will be building two more planes this winter. I have another V2 kit and the Districts kit that I won to build/finish.

Dean

Lookin good Dean! I can't wait to see how you do with the paint!

-Mike

Mike


Got a look at some of the goodies Jon brought back NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


gary

Here's a little present for ya.

If you're doing a good bit of sheeting, this is a really cool little tool and worth the time to put together. It's really quite simple so I won't go into TOO much detail.

If you're not doing a lot of sheeting, this may or may not be of use. but this sucker really helps to true up the edges of 1/16" sheeting before you join them.

All you need is a piece of 3/4" MDF board, cut to 50" long and 12" wide. Another strip is 2" wide and is secured to the board on it's edge. A length of 1 1/2" aluminum angle is then attached (using a straight edge to make sure it's straight). A piece of 80 grit stick on sandpapr run the entire length and you're all set for the piece that sits on the table.

The roller piece is a little more work. I made mine 40" long. I notched out 6 spots to accept shower door rollers that I got from Ace Hardware. I then drilled and tapped the notches in the center (low so the 3/4" roller actually sticks out and rolls). Then I inserted a piece of 8/32 all thread, hit it with some epoxy, and screwe on the roller. I added a lock nut to the outside.

Now all you have to do is stack the sheeting with it overhanging a small amount. I used another piece of angle with a piece of sandpaper on the bottom to keep the sheeting from slipping.

Now just apply a VERY small amount of pressure, and roll back and forth....voila, it trues up all of your sheeting for you in seconds.

I can't take credit for this one, I seem to remember one resembling this was sold a while back by Verne Koester? My memory might be hazy on this one. But I cought a glimpse of it and thought I could really use it. And MAN it has saved me some time!

I'll post more details if anyone is interested.

Have a Merry Christmas and make some dust, the 2007 season is just around the corner!

-Mike

Hi Mike,
Slightly simpler way to do this although not as cool. I made my base from the a piece of the pre-finished 48" shelving available at the home center. Then just put the angle AL directly on its face. The shelving comes pre-covered with a formica-like substance that is slick enough to use with out making the roller.
Some times the piece on the bottom of the pile doesn't come out great but works well. Also, handy for squaring up formers!

Question:

Since I'm doing it now, would you guys be interested in the steps (with pics) on glassing and finishing a wood plane? It's really easy. I'd be happy to show you if you're interested.

Also, I am seriously considering re-releasing the V2 as a V2.2 version. The only real difference is in the rudder, belly and tail block. Also perhaps making aliggnment tabs and some other small things to make life easier for you. I'm experimenting with a few wings, so I may have new wing cores as well (with a slightly thicker cross section and thicker TE). If I do, I'd be happy to make the cores and drawings available to all who have already purchased a kit for a really reasonable price (just about cost really). it's not a huge deal, it just reduces the mix a little and makes a fantastic plane even better still.

So even if it's already built, the mod would be a piece of cake. I'm actually doing it to the plane I'm currently flying, and we've already done it to Dean's plane (it's twin).

But, I want to test it first to make sure the difference is even worth the trouble. Heck, I think most places do a change this small and release the plane under a new name (Sequel-Prohpecy comes to mind). For what it's worth, we have a few V2s in stock now that the crush has leveled off.

If you're waiting on the under development "X" plane, fair warning: It will probably be the Nats before it's available if all goes smoothly. Trust me, nothing ever goes smoothly This plane will not be released until it's the best plane money can buy at any price, in any form.

Now for another hypothetical question: would anybody be interested in the V2.2 if it was available as an ARF of ridiculously good quality? I mean like nothing you've ever seen in a 2 meter pattern plane before....

Just thinking and planning ahead,
-Mike

I would be interested in the steps with pics for glassing and finishing... mine is almost to the stage where it is ready for that...