Composite-ARF Integral, kinda build thread
#776
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From: , ON, CANADA
OK all...I need help with my upline snaps. I'm not sure if the problem is my execution or the plane's set-up but it is not tracking the line through the snap. Instead there is a noticeable translation laterally.
I have tried it with higher rudder and elevator rates and it gets worse. I have lowered the rudder and elevator rates to the lowest point I can that allows good enough snaps on the downlines.
Am I carrying too much speed or am I applying rudder too soon?
Can I get some inputs on your set-ups and techniques for the upline snap?
Colin
I have tried it with higher rudder and elevator rates and it gets worse. I have lowered the rudder and elevator rates to the lowest point I can that allows good enough snaps on the downlines.
Am I carrying too much speed or am I applying rudder too soon?
Can I get some inputs on your set-ups and techniques for the upline snap?
Colin
#777
Have you tried adding more aileron and use less rudder and elevator. A snap usually uses less rudder than elevator and usually more aileron than both,..but not to much. Sounds like maybe the snap is getting to deep with respect to the pitch, two much rudder will allow the plane slightly over rotate and a lack or aileron travel will create a faster stalled condition. And now you are at the mercy of torque, P- factor and the natural elements of physcis and aerodynamics. Ofcourse make sure you are not past the CG,..all these things plus the CG to far back can be ugly. It takes some tweeking to get the right looking snap that scores well.
Bill Holsten
Bill Holsten
#779
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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: RC Technics
Can some one please tell me the weight of the stock landing gear?
Can some one please tell me the weight of the stock landing gear?
The spats (wheel pants) weigh 35g (1.15oz) per pair
Cheers, JB
#780

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From: , WI
My stock gear weighed in at a whopping 171g (~ 6 ounces). I ended up getting a set of Bolly F3A Electric gear that weigh 120g (~ 1.8 ounces less). My wheel pants weighed 35g as well.
Joe
Joe
#783
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (2)
Don't go overboard with the glue, no metal arms, light small wheels/axels, light tail wheel set-ups, no oversized switches, small battery, servo selection, cut back on the bling... these are usually the easy ones.
The glow one's here (bought stock) are 10.25-10.5
The glow one's here (bought stock) are 10.25-10.5
#784
A few more thoughts: (warning! not all of these have been tried. At least not by me ...)
A PGP F3A Lightwall 30mm wing tube to replace the EPS filled tube that comes with the plane. (~ 1 oz)
Corrugated Nomex servo tray (use the fibreglass skinned version if you use a 2.4 Ghz RX)
Carbon Fiber Spinner from NetBox Hobby (~ 3/4 oz)
Shorter Bolts (~ 1 gram)
Custom fitted servo extensions that don't have any excess length
Bolly Carbon Fiber Gear, and Wheel Pants (~ 1oz)
Titanium pushrods for ailerons and elevators
Eliminating the receiver switch, and just plugging in the connectors when you want to fly (~ 1 oz)
Dubro Plastic Clevices with Brass Pins
300 mah Li-poly RX battery with regulator (~ 1oz)
A high voltage BEC to replace the RX battery entirely (~ 2 oz)
Half Height Servos for Ailerons (~ 1oz)
Use a 21 X 14 APC prop instead of a 22 X 12 APC prop (~ 1oz) (for Electric Version)
No internal ducting (for Electric Version)
MK plastic Tailwheel
A 4350 mah 25C battery (for Electric Version)
Shorter Wing Tube
Shorter Stab Tube
A PGP F3A Lightwall 30mm wing tube to replace the EPS filled tube that comes with the plane. (~ 1 oz)
Corrugated Nomex servo tray (use the fibreglass skinned version if you use a 2.4 Ghz RX)
Carbon Fiber Spinner from NetBox Hobby (~ 3/4 oz)
Shorter Bolts (~ 1 gram)
Custom fitted servo extensions that don't have any excess length
Bolly Carbon Fiber Gear, and Wheel Pants (~ 1oz)
Titanium pushrods for ailerons and elevators
Eliminating the receiver switch, and just plugging in the connectors when you want to fly (~ 1 oz)
Dubro Plastic Clevices with Brass Pins
300 mah Li-poly RX battery with regulator (~ 1oz)
A high voltage BEC to replace the RX battery entirely (~ 2 oz)
Half Height Servos for Ailerons (~ 1oz)
Use a 21 X 14 APC prop instead of a 22 X 12 APC prop (~ 1oz) (for Electric Version)
No internal ducting (for Electric Version)
MK plastic Tailwheel
A 4350 mah 25C battery (for Electric Version)
Shorter Wing Tube
Shorter Stab Tube
#785
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (2)
Shorter wing tube and stab tube... I hope that was just a joke
?
The only other thing on that list that is a bit scary to me is the 300mah li-po and BEC. I'm sure the 300 has enough juice as a flight only eats up about 100mah, but that's a bit too close for me. 480 ok, 730... perfect. IF, only IF anything happens to the flight packs, the BEC wouldn't help you get the plane back. I know some success stories if it had to be used... but a Rx pack (no switch if weight is that critical) is a better piece of mind, at least for me.
?The only other thing on that list that is a bit scary to me is the 300mah li-po and BEC. I'm sure the 300 has enough juice as a flight only eats up about 100mah, but that's a bit too close for me. 480 ok, 730... perfect. IF, only IF anything happens to the flight packs, the BEC wouldn't help you get the plane back. I know some success stories if it had to be used... but a Rx pack (no switch if weight is that critical) is a better piece of mind, at least for me.
#786

My Feedback: (41)
ORIGINAL: Brenner
A few more thoughts: (warning! not all of these have been tried. At least not by me ...)
A PGP F3A Lightwall 30mm wing tube to replace the EPS filled tube that comes with the plane. (~ 1 oz)
Corrugated Nomex servo tray (use the fibreglass skinned version if you use a 2.4 Ghz RX)
Carbon Fiber Spinner from NetBox Hobby (~ 3/4 oz)
Shorter Bolts (~ 1 gram)
Custom fitted servo extensions that don't have any excess length
Bolly Carbon Fiber Gear, and Wheel Pants (~ 1oz)
Titanium pushrods for ailerons and elevators
Eliminating the receiver switch, and just plugging in the connectors when you want to fly (~ 1 oz)
Dubro Plastic Clevices with Brass Pins
300 mah Li-poly RX battery with regulator (~ 1oz)
A high voltage BEC to replace the RX battery entirely (~ 2 oz)
Half Height Servos for Ailerons (~ 1oz)
Use a 21 X 14 APC prop instead of a 22 X 12 APC prop (~ 1oz) (for Electric Version)
No internal ducting (for Electric Version)
MK plastic Tailwheel
A 4350 mah 25C battery (for Electric Version)
Shorter Wing Tube
Shorter Stab Tube
A few more thoughts: (warning! not all of these have been tried. At least not by me ...)
A PGP F3A Lightwall 30mm wing tube to replace the EPS filled tube that comes with the plane. (~ 1 oz)
Corrugated Nomex servo tray (use the fibreglass skinned version if you use a 2.4 Ghz RX)
Carbon Fiber Spinner from NetBox Hobby (~ 3/4 oz)
Shorter Bolts (~ 1 gram)
Custom fitted servo extensions that don't have any excess length
Bolly Carbon Fiber Gear, and Wheel Pants (~ 1oz)
Titanium pushrods for ailerons and elevators
Eliminating the receiver switch, and just plugging in the connectors when you want to fly (~ 1 oz)
Dubro Plastic Clevices with Brass Pins
300 mah Li-poly RX battery with regulator (~ 1oz)
A high voltage BEC to replace the RX battery entirely (~ 2 oz)
Half Height Servos for Ailerons (~ 1oz)
Use a 21 X 14 APC prop instead of a 22 X 12 APC prop (~ 1oz) (for Electric Version)
No internal ducting (for Electric Version)
MK plastic Tailwheel
A 4350 mah 25C battery (for Electric Version)
Shorter Wing Tube
Shorter Stab Tube
We also reduced the weight by building a custom cut foam and balsa wing on them. Weight savings is 6 to 8 oz's.
I have seen some guys save weight on the long servo extensions to the dual elevator servos. They only use one + and - instead of both. Saves a little.
Light weight vinyl is also a way to save weight vs. a painted plane. Mike Mueller
#787
I can certainly understand the reluctance to consider either a small Lipo pack, or a BEC, and I don't use either myself so it's not something I actually advocate, but what if the two were combined to create a redundant system?
What I'm thinking about here is a system that uses a BEC to power the receiver and the servos, and a small backup battery that would provide enough power to save the plane if anything happened to the main batteries or the BEC. The idea is that during regular operation the BEC would keep the backup battery charged so you wouldn't have to charge it between flights. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I'm sure that the BEC would have to be combined with a regulator, and also some circuitry to protect the backup battery from being overcharged. There's also the additional question as to how much weight such a system could save, but even if it's a wash, you'd have a system that wouldn't require you to watch your receiver battery all the time.
What I'm thinking about here is a system that uses a BEC to power the receiver and the servos, and a small backup battery that would provide enough power to save the plane if anything happened to the main batteries or the BEC. The idea is that during regular operation the BEC would keep the backup battery charged so you wouldn't have to charge it between flights. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I'm sure that the BEC would have to be combined with a regulator, and also some circuitry to protect the backup battery from being overcharged. There's also the additional question as to how much weight such a system could save, but even if it's a wash, you'd have a system that wouldn't require you to watch your receiver battery all the time.
#788
Have any of you fellas mounted a YS Super Mount onto an Integral?
I am running a YS 170 DZ, Hatori #822 Header & Hatori #821 Muffler
I can't seem to find any pictures of this setup on any models other than the Oxai planes which have a build in lengthwise CF mount.
Any pictures of this mount setup would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Keven
I am running a YS 170 DZ, Hatori #822 Header & Hatori #821 Muffler
I can't seem to find any pictures of this setup on any models other than the Oxai planes which have a build in lengthwise CF mount.
Any pictures of this mount setup would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Keven
#790
Hi there,
This is my A model for 2008, flew very nice had about 50 flights till I took off without re-fuelling and had a flame out low and at the end of the box, plane landed ok but hit a little plant and stalled half meter from the ground. Everything else is mint condition except the fuselage which had a crack, I could not believe it when I saw the cracked fuselage, that was two days before the Europeans in Italy.
Anyway now the fuselage has been aligned and glued, here is my friend (professional UAV builder) doing some work on it. The plane came very light with the extra glass, resins, filler etc. Now we have to repaint it, here is the new scheme.
Hope tha plane will fly as good as it was built.
Nikos
This is my A model for 2008, flew very nice had about 50 flights till I took off without re-fuelling and had a flame out low and at the end of the box, plane landed ok but hit a little plant and stalled half meter from the ground. Everything else is mint condition except the fuselage which had a crack, I could not believe it when I saw the cracked fuselage, that was two days before the Europeans in Italy.
Anyway now the fuselage has been aligned and glued, here is my friend (professional UAV builder) doing some work on it. The plane came very light with the extra glass, resins, filler etc. Now we have to repaint it, here is the new scheme.
Hope tha plane will fly as good as it was built.
Nikos
#791
Great job Nikos, repair looks fantastic. Terribly disappointing when this type of thing happens, I'm glad you have it repaired now.
#792
Yes it disappointing, but these things happen what can we do? In my honest opinion this was a structural failure but never mind. I thought of getting a new fuselage but I will test this first. Building a new fuselage is like building a new model and the cost of this part is rather high it is around 60% or more of the total kit price. Not worth it...
#793
Hi,
This is the first assembly after some basic painting. I will fly it the way it is for now and then I may repaint parts of the original scheme. Do you believe that the white part in the middle may be confusing in the air? Any opinions here?
Thanks,
Nikos
This is the first assembly after some basic painting. I will fly it the way it is for now and then I may repaint parts of the original scheme. Do you believe that the white part in the middle may be confusing in the air? Any opinions here?
Thanks,
Nikos
#794
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From: Ocean View,
NJ
It may help you see the wing better.
I find that when the plane is coming at you on the lower base line the wing is hard to see.
Carl
I find that when the plane is coming at you on the lower base line the wing is hard to see.
Carl
#795
Hi,
Ready to go, the stabs were set again 0.4 degrees negative relative to the wings. Plane is really straight after the rebuild. One action that is currently pending is the modification of the Hyde ARIA mount into normal one and tha installation of a CH nose ring. This will save some grams, the Rud servo is at the tail and have added around 80gr at the tail to balance at the recommended CG, hopefully I will remove this lead after the modification.
Looking forward to the maiden flight v2
Regards,
Nikos
Ready to go, the stabs were set again 0.4 degrees negative relative to the wings. Plane is really straight after the rebuild. One action that is currently pending is the modification of the Hyde ARIA mount into normal one and tha installation of a CH nose ring. This will save some grams, the Rud servo is at the tail and have added around 80gr at the tail to balance at the recommended CG, hopefully I will remove this lead after the modification.
Looking forward to the maiden flight v2

Regards,
Nikos
#799
Hi there,
This is an APC 18x10PN prop, and as Jason said has been designed by Chip Hyde. It may be a bit light for the 160/170DZ series, initially designed for the 140DZ if not mistaken but as some fliers have commented, provides good break and slow speed. Overal I have found that the 17x12 is a good prop (probably the best) in windy and calm conditions. I would like to compare these two on the 160. After the test flights, wiill probably install a 170 and check other props as well such as 18.1x10, 18.1x10W which when tested seemed to provide too much load on the engine, but seems to be a preference for many fliers so there must be a rationale behind it.
Jason can you please send some pics of your nose ring installation with the YS? I would really appreciate it.
Thanks and regards,
Nikos
This is an APC 18x10PN prop, and as Jason said has been designed by Chip Hyde. It may be a bit light for the 160/170DZ series, initially designed for the 140DZ if not mistaken but as some fliers have commented, provides good break and slow speed. Overal I have found that the 17x12 is a good prop (probably the best) in windy and calm conditions. I would like to compare these two on the 160. After the test flights, wiill probably install a 170 and check other props as well such as 18.1x10, 18.1x10W which when tested seemed to provide too much load on the engine, but seems to be a preference for many fliers so there must be a rationale behind it.
Jason can you please send some pics of your nose ring installation with the YS? I would really appreciate it.
Thanks and regards,
Nikos
#800
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From: Helsinki, FINLAND
About the PN prop...
A friend of mine has been using it this season with a 170, and that combo sure does give his Twister pretty impressive performance both up and down. Full throttle is just way, way too much power in most weather conditions... But the noise can be pretty impressive too, passing the noise check is a problem and in the air at high revs it kinda sounds like a 110 YS with a master airscrew prop
With the 160 it just might be OK though, I guess...
A friend of mine has been using it this season with a 170, and that combo sure does give his Twister pretty impressive performance both up and down. Full throttle is just way, way too much power in most weather conditions... But the noise can be pretty impressive too, passing the noise check is a problem and in the air at high revs it kinda sounds like a 110 YS with a master airscrew prop
With the 160 it just might be OK though, I guess...


