Tested both the plane and the prop yesterday. Power and break are good but sound may be an issue, I will check with a sound meter next time.

TX trims remained at the same positions which is good, still flying with a little of right ail trim as before the fix.

Here are some pics from yesterday, runway was a bit lakey but anyway.

Regards,
Nikos

Hi there,

After some basic trimming I decided to test my Integral on P09, here is a video still need to adjust my thumbs on the plane as I had not flown it for about 3 months. Sorry about my mistakes ...

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaugpW8MAm4[/link]

Regards,
Nikos

Nice flying. Mike

both plane and flying looking great ..had some problems understanding directors comment

Rune & Mike,

Thanks for the kind comments, still need a lot of practice with the plane.[]

Regarding the comment, it may sound a bit greek to you .

Happy landings,
Nikos

ps: Here is another and final pic of the repaired Integral from Saturday's practice.

ehhhh yes......
no flying here i norway at least where I lives.... minus 8 deegreds and 20-30 cm snow....

Hi there,

Just would like to ask has anyone tried Futaba 9154s on Integral's ailerons?

Thanks,
Nikos

Question: How will the 2mm hinge wire from the rudder attached. How can I make. Please can someone post a picture.

SR
andreas

Just make the wire flush at the bottom and mark it at the top. Bend it 90 degrees at the mark, leave about 10mm from the bend and cut off the rest. I just tape mine at the top of the rudder (bend is on the opposite end as the pic) so it doesn't interfere with the tail wheel at the bottom.

Thanks for the tip.
The photo I have seen, and know the problem with the tail wheel . Therefore, I search for a better solution.
On this way "Merry Christmas" to All.

Just put it in from the top so the bend is at the top, no tailwheel problem.

Hi there
See my Integral.
The first Integral ran it by YS160DZ.
But, This photo is 2nd plane that is runs by gasoline engine ZDZ40F3A.
A fuel fee is cheap, and this has the huge power, and I am very much satisfied.
This noise is equal to the 2 cycle glow engine.
A throttle response is a finer feeling than 2 cycle glow engine.
But, the smell of the gasoline is a fault when an airplane is brought into the room.
Weight 4.95 kg
20x12 / 6400rpm
・・・
A happy new year (may be false start?)
kobago

Hey Kobago,

Did you put the battery in the tail because the engine was heavier than the YS-160DZ, and what was the complete weight of the engine including the ignition system, and exhaust system? Also, did you have a seperate battery for the ignition system, or did you plug the ignition system into the receiver?

How does the vibration compare to the YS 160DZ? I'm thinking that your solution has the potential to save considerable money on fuel cost over the life of the airplane. Have you done any calculations to compare the cost per flight of the ZDZ40F3A as compared to the YS 160DZ?

Hi brenner
A happy new year.
Yes, a ZDZ40 gasoline engine is heavier by 150g than YSDZ160.
And it became a little heavy because it and a soft_mount were manufactured by my hand.
Besides, it is heavy with CDI(120g), and the fireproof cover of a long muffler(150g).

It is distributed from one battery(AA, 2000mAH Sanyo eneloop) to the receiver and CDI.
Therefore, electric current of 250mAH is consumed with 1 flight (12 minutes).
I think that the vibration of this engine is bigger than DZ160 a little bit.

The comparison of the price is as the following.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ZDZ40F3A - - - - - - - YS DZ160
Fuel consumption rate - - 250cc/ 30yen($0.3) - - 500cc/ 600yen($6)
(P09x2, 12 minutes)

kobago

Jason...I noticed in the "early" electric Integrel photos, the ESC was mounted just forward of the landing gear..on the angle....in the chin cowl compartment area.......
In later photos ,I see the ESC mounted on the floor of fuse,forward of the batteries...and also on the left side ...fuse wall.....
Was there a cooling issue with the first position?....I would think with adaquete intake/airflow ..that this position would be a good one.......any feedback?
Also ..in the posts I read a lot about intake air...but very little about venting the intake...is the 3 :1 rule ....the standard? (meaning , vent openings should be 3 times the intake).....
Anyones feedback on esc position/cooling...and intake /venting would be most appreciated...

Hacker 13 xl hacker /jeti 99

Thanks!

My Spin 99 is mounted underneath the fuse floor just forward of the landing gear this provides a nice short run between the motor and batteries. Cooling is not an issue as long as you cut some slots to the rear of the chin cowl to draw some of the air through. Remember that you want to direct as much of the air coming through the front of the plane to your key components (ESC, motor & batteries). I made up a few depron structures to direct air to each of these components and have found that everything stays quite cool.

Air outlets are incredibly important. I've molded two 50x100mm scoops in the fuze out of CF in the belly of the aircraft just behind the wing tube. These vents are not just a hole in the belly but scoops that create negative pressure in the fuse to assist with cooling (post 629 from this thread has pictures of these). Work great and look cool!

Hope this helps, Simon

Simon...
I had noticed your scoops.....nice job!...what did you use as a mold for them....ping pong ball?...
Geo

Hi Geo,
I used a tube 2" in diameter (the tubes of glue/silicon that you load into a dispensing gun are perfect), applied a release agent, painted in finishing resin and applied the cf. Once it dried I used sandpaper with a sticky back to trim the hole in the fuse to the exact size of the scoop and glued in the scoop. I lastly trimmed off the protuding portion of the scoop with sand paper (protecting the fuse paint with masking tape).
I was very happy with the result but must confess it wasn't my original idea, one of our local F3A Jedi (John Payne) talked me through it which was incredibly helpful.
Simon

YES ! . . will need a trailer to carry these ! Do not drive any distance with one inside the car. You will arrive at the competition with a "head banger" (headache) []

(I would, anyway . . )

Cheers, JB

I just got my integral and i was woundering if the 2.4 gets effected by the carban canopy.

thanks

No it works fine.

Carl

Why did you waste your money on a carbon canopy?

Joe, When I bought my first Integral (first cargo container over) The canopy set up was different then the current. The carbon canopy was 7 oz lighter then the deck/polycarbonate setup.
Then the Integral was being produced and shipped with the Fiberglass canopy which is 2 grams lighter then the carbon canopy.
I agree to purchase the carbon canopy today would be a waste of money, But, back then it was quite a weight savings.

Carl

Hi to All
The stab of my Integral had a difference of 0.5 deg. So I had to do something. Not the first time, I'm not the only. I know all know about the errors or the quality of the kit. I want nothing to say more about this. An old saying says: Speech is silver, silence is golden. For any builders Helps or Tipps. I have built stab adjustors. So I made it.
First, I carefully drilled the Carbon bolt out from the stab. Then I took my Dremel. Next step, I fitted plywood 2,5 mm and and adjusted everything. The last step i make Plywood 2,0 mm filling. So that the adjustor has fit exactly. Here are some photos about the work. The stab now I can adjust exactly. The next step is to take wing adjustors. But this is other story.

Very good Andreas,
I have also done the Stab adjuster Modification, but this week completed the wing adjuster modification as well. I was pretty straightforward. Very little work required to the plane. The front adjusters are placed so the male portion is in the fuselage, and the rear adjusters are place with male portion in the wing. The female sockets are easiest to install in the original front wing pin, and the rear fuselage sockets.
To place the front sockets, I wrapped them with a few turns of paper so they would friction fit in the wing pins (that I cut off), then applied a small amopunt of thin CA to soak the paper/socket. The rear sockets I left until the last, so that they would be positioned naturally. Some epoxy on the socket froze the location and position of the rear sockets...then I was able to fill the empty space with balsa and filler.
I set the adjusters so the wing would be at +0.25 degrees to the motor with full "bottom" adjustment. This allows me to put the wing anywhere from +0.25 degrees to +2 degrees. Currently, my plane is set at engine=0 degrees, wing= 0.5 degrees, and stab at zero degrees. This close to all other planes I have owned and in the same ball park of other Integrals that do not fly the stock settings. Trimming procedure continues...

John