Not sure about that. I have gotten the basic deps from central and then ordered the teflon sheathing from cst - I use the nylon tubes from the deps kit to run my antenna tubes.

Maybe Mike or Arch can pipe in here. But I did a search and I can't find a DEPS style kit from CST - You need the 050 carbon rods, a larger dia rod that they tie into and the fittings.

maybe I am wrong but I don't see a deps style kit from cst - I am sure you could order all the pieces from CST but I've always take the easy but maybe somewhat a little more expensive route and got the kit from central and replaced the nylon sheathing.

there is nothing wrong really with the central kit. you just have to tie down the tubes with kevlar or carpet thread to secure the tubes to the support, you can do a slightly lighter set-up with the bondable sheathing and it's teflon

Hey Guys -

a quick Black Magic Foamy Update !!!!!


I've gotten my foam, shipping boxes, kit bags, control horns, carbon tubes, black vinyl in stock and as soon as I have time (like this weekend) will be cutting and shipping kits to everybody that preordered. I haven't exaclty finialized my price points yet but I am thinking the "basic" kit will be in the $45.00 - $50.00 range + postage. I've got to get approval from the CFO on the pricing yet

The basic kit will include a simple vinyl graphics package, the Black Magic wing type, Flaming Dragonfire Customs graphic for the fuse and canopy graphics. I will also be offering graphic package upgrade kits for about $15.00 bucks extra - these will include additional graphics for the wings and stabs along with my Dragons fro the fin.

I also have a version with side force generators on the out board wing panels, I'll be testing that over this weekend. I am also doing a micro indoor version that is still on the drawing boards (computer screen).

I'll be hand cutting these kits, so I hope to be able to do about 4 kits a night.

If you are interested and want to get on my preorder list just send me a PM at deanfunk(at)mindspring.com

thanks all !!!!

I want 2 of the whole package graphics and everything. Might be 3 after I ask Doc if he wants in. Thanks

Cool Mike,

I'll have some options for the graphics as well. I hope to have some choices in colors and designs for you guys....

I'll keep you all posted....

My boxes are big enough to ship 3 complete kits.

You can order the sheathing and the carbon rods from CST, but then you still have to order the ends. I definitely recommend getting the central setup, then spending 15.00 or so or whatever it is, its not very expensive for the sheathing from CST. Central's setup comes with all of the carbon you need, the one that ties it together, as well as the ends that fit perfectly over the carbon rods. If you don't get those from Central, you can get them from BVM, but by the time you wait around and pay the additional shipping for items, you really arent saving much over getting the DEPS from Central and the sheathing from CST.

Hope this helps,

Arch

Top turtle deck...

As you all remember way back on page 1 or 2 of this thread I sheeted my turtle deck cores. Well I dusted them off tonight and got to it....

You want to carefully trim away the excess wood around the cores, you can use a #11 blade, just cut it as close as your comfortable, then go at it with a sanding block, you just need to get a clean and flat edge. I used a cool little trick, run two strips of masking tape along the edges of the sheeted core - this will help set the edge of the core slightly inside the edge of the fuse sides - - so when you block sand the fuse/turtle deck joint you can start a gentle radius.


The glue of choice is Gorilla, spread it very thin and use a business card and paper towel to wipe all excess. Position the turtle deck on the fuse top, the rear of the turtle deck want to be up against F9, check the plans for reference. Pull strips of masking tape at each former position and add a strip of masking tape right along the seam. check the alignment all the way around the turtle deck. You can reach inside the turtle deck if you need to adjust the position. Just take your time and make sure both edges line up nicely. You will be going over it with a sanding block so don't get too hung up here. Once your satisfied just sit it aside and move on to your next task....

I need to spend tomorrow night capping my wing and stab cores.....

Looks great!

One correction: When positioning the top turtle deck, the bottom of the turtle deck face is positioned 3" from the front edge of F4. There is sometimes a slight variance in length. We're not talking more than 1/8" at the worst, and if it's at the rear, who cares. But if the front is off, it can mess with the canopy a little. But I'm splitting hairs, it's so close it works either way.

The bottom deck is aligned with F9 though.

-Mike

Mike, of course I just ran down and measured - all good.....

LOL I figured you would

I also figured it would be fine too. But that's the way I designed it to fit, "just in case".

-M

Here is my other distraction... (been working on this v2.2 for a while)

I just put it on the scales, fully painted, complete with the gear legs - it's 5 1/4 pounds. I only have to monokote the flying surfaces and install radio and power equipment. I am really happy with this weight !!!!

Yea, I've been flipping on going YS or electric on this one. I think I could pull off an electric conversion with the smaller motor and small packs - but I am afraid that I will be dispointed in performance.

I've got a sweet running DZ thats going to drop into this baby. Should be under 10 lbs with DZ Dragon Power.

I do think I am going to do an elecric VF3 build next - A good friend gave me a AXI FAI motor - thanks Bruce...

Has anyone put a full length (2 stroke style) carbon fiber pipe in any of the V.3s? I am just trying to plan ahead and need to know what modifications are necessary to put in the long ES carbon fiber pipe.

Thanks
Anthony

HI Anthony,

I know Brian B from Jacksonville had one in his, you just need to build it like your v2. Trim the tunnel in the lower turtle cap it with 1/8 wood etc etc.

Brian B did one as Dean Said. I have pics somewhere, but I have no idea where.

At any rate, do it just like this, except longer.... (this is from the V2 files).

-Mike

Anthony,

I hope you arent planning on running an OS 1.40RX on this plane. You will be underpowered. This plane is HUGE compared to some other ones out there and is really draggy. By mid July when the NATS comes around and it gets really hot out, the 1.40RX will have problems at the tops of some verticals. The OS 1.60 would be great if you want to stay two stroke, but i'll warn you now, the 1.40RX would be under powered. I think Mike will agree with me. His V2's were 9.5lbs and at the 2006 NATS with the temps in the upper 90s, he was hurting.

Arch

I'm not sure but you might have to extend the flooring as well....

Yep one more bay.

And no the OS140 ain't gonna be quite enough....unless you have a SUPER strong one. The 160 is a better choice, but you have to be very diligent on the set up and especuially the coupler arrangement.

-Mike

Anthony,

Even the SUPER strong ones dont stay that way forever This airplane with the 1.60DZ is magic. It just works. I wish I'd been able to catch up to you sometime this summer and let you fly mine. If you pick up a DZ for yours, you will not be sorry...The 1.70's are arriving soon, and I think you'll see some 1.60DZ's for sale. If you do, pick one up, you'll be glad you did. The short pipe works great, and makes life really easy,

Arch
YS convert

Ditto.

-Mike

Here are some shots of the production Black Magic Foamy designs.

I've added 3/4" of aileron chord. Also I'll have the "Extreme" design with the side-force generators and more aggressive wing planform. They are both around 5 oz as you see it. If I wasn't so worn out tonight I would be doing some graphics on these little babies. And yes these planes will be thoroughly tested this weekend

Tiled PDFs please!!!!

Thanks for the info. I have had the power discussion with Mark a couple of times. I thought about a 140 RX, then a 140 L, then came to my senses and realized that the only way to go would be a brand new 170DZ. That way I can fly current designs and have power to spare for the next ultra wide power hungry designes that are likely to come down the pike. I am just waiting for the 170s to hit the street and I am going to pick one up.

I love the ES pipe and already have it sitting on the shelf so my intention is to use it with the YS 170. It is too nice and too lite to just have it sitting around. I just wanted to see what the mods for mounting the longer pipe were. It doesn't look that bad. I will just extend the sheeting on the floor of the fuselage by another bay (wish I had done that before putting the top turtle deck on) and cut out and cap the bottom turtle deck as shown in the pictures.

Thanks again
Anthony

Anthony,

Sell the ES pipe..it is heavy compared to the short setup. The short setup is quieter and a lot less headache. It is just a cleaner install. I flew the ES pipe before, and the short pipe is really nice, and it definitely is quieter,

Arch

Anthony,

Mike designed this plane around the short pipe to get away from the long pipe tunnel. And Lots of guys didn't adjust well so to speak of the v2s belly pan. going with the short pipe cleans up the entire belly of the plane. There are also a lot of V2.2s being finished now, so you should be able to sell that pipe. ( I also got a brand new ES pipe in the bag)

Besides do you really want to slice and dice a beautiful 46" sheeted core that Mike and Melissa cut with a lot of love and finesse ??? -

I'm with Arch - sell it

Sell it and get a short pipe

-M

Anyone want to buy a Full length ES 140 pipe?

As you can see, I am convinced. I am not one to reinvent the wheel, I try to stay with what guys have been successful with.

Thanks for the good advice.

One other thing,
I received my Integral gear from Comp Arf the other day and it is truly a work of art although a little heavy.

They have an elegant arc shape to them and at a glance you would think that the arc faces the front, basically making the gear swept back. On second glance it appears that orienting them that way would effectively move the wheels back behind the leading edge. Is that the correct way to mount them? Does that create any ground handling issues? I will post a picture tomorrow so you can better see what I am talking about.

Thanks again
AA