Again in primer. I will post picture after I wet sand this with 400/600G.

Hey Srikar,

Looking great. take your time with the wet sanding and try to minimize sanding through the primer. Just block it out nice, use a flexible rubber sanding block for the curves. Also be careful with your edges as not to over sand or chip - around the canopy mostly.

Before you shoot color you need a good pre-cleaner like the "5-Star" from the paint store, cheap - around $20.00 gallon, less by the quart.

nice job !!

One last ? an this is for the Futaba fans I am using S9202's on the Wings an 3010 for the thro.What would you all suggest for the Tail feathers, I forgot to say it is for my Black Magic V3

If you are putting them in the stab, 9650's are the most used dual elevator servos if you use Futaba.

Rudder will be pull-pull,DEPS an Elevator will be in the fuse.

Wendell,

I run a 9155 on the rudder, and the 9254 on the elevator. You will notice the torque on the 9254 is only 50oz..this is MORE than enough. CPLR has been flying this on his elevator for years. The setup is the fastest and best I have found. Talk to Mike..I've convinced him. You do not need anymore torque on the elevator. There is no way you can put more force on your elevator than I do mine. If you really dont go that way, then the 9252 makes a good choice,

Arch

Dude,

More pics please

Lawrence

This is the BM V3 I am Monokoting. What I need is a lot of input on jointing the monokote to the cowl. I am afraid to sand much more for fear of going threw. I will be using Lustrekote Missile Red. What color should I use as a base or primmer coat, an can one of these clear coats work. If my memory serves me when I esed the clear coat it shined so much it would blind you, but when it dry ed it smoked up.How about some help with this beauty

hi Wendell, looks good so far!

Paint the cowl. use a light grey primer first, be sure to get the pinholes filled. What I do is use BVM pinhole filler first, then spray primer. Usually a quick sand with 400-600 grit and it's ready for paint right there.

Don't get too crazy with sanding and filling around that cowl on a monokoted plane. you will have a seam there unless your name is Faye Stilley LOL

After the paint fully cures, just overlap the monokote about 1/4" onto the cowl, taking care to match up the colors. Done. use graphics to camaflouge the seam. Only thing I know how to do.

I'm redoing the prototype as I type this, and will have it in Birmingham at the contest this weekend if you want to drive down and have a look. I'm not too worried how this one looks, this plane is a used up $2 ***** but she still flies SWEET. So assuming I can get it test flown and trimmed out, I'm flying this weekend ice cold with no practice (can you say "sitting duck"?) So my goal is no zeroes for at least one round. After that....GAME ON!!!

-Mike

Mike I tryed a Red primmer an then sprayed Missle Red an now have Orange.What color primmer should I use for the Missle Red?

Light grey.

Or white.

Not red.....again [)]

-M

HI All,

I've got the electric twins in white k-36 primer.

I tried something new, I mixed in 1 part DCC white with 2 parts k-36 - reduced that to 50% with DT870 and shot a nice thin coat. It not a pur white but it is a couple shades whiter than the straight k-36. I am sanding this out to 400 dry right now (5:30am) and will shoot another overreduced coat of k-36/white dcc this time mixed 1 : 1.

looking great so far and I think this mixture with the DCC tint is the wa to go and it's should be much lighter in weight than straight k-36 - plus so far it seems to sand and fill just like the k-36.

I also found two new (to me ) products at my paint store that should be helpful. One is this spary can of PPG Adhesive remover - should be great for cleanup after using spary masks. and the other is this scuffing paste to be used with the grey superfine sctochbrite pads. The paint scheme on these electrics requires the white base to be overpainted with trim colors, I am hoping this scuffing paste will speed the job....



back to sanding

okay after the first hour sanding the k-36/DCC white base - I am really impressed that the addition of the white DCC even improves the sandability of the k-36, seems to fill pin holes better and is a slightly harder coat, but that makes it even better smoother base - sanding with 320 and 400 grit dry.

one of the fuses is almost completed in about an hour - it's going to take at least 2 full hours to sand out to 400 for each plane -

Just a question. Can the final clear coat of DCC be rubbed out? Mine came out looking slick and wet but since I painted half in my garage and half in I got a few dust spots on it. I'd like to do something with it but I don't want to risk screwing it up. Thanks, Mike

Oh absolutely Mike! I'm betting dean will detail the process, but it starts with wet sanding, compounding and polishing, and is considered a necessary step for a class AAA finish.

Although sometimes you just get lucky with the clear, if you take the time to do this, it gets that really soaking wet shine.

-Mike

HI Mike,

Yes you can do that, DCC color can be buffed out. Go to the paint store, 3M makes a number of high quality compounds, you can also get various off brands that work well. What you want to do is wet sand it out to 1500 or 2000 then use a compound that you can work by hand. You can really get a great shine with just the buffing compound. You can then finish it with polishing compound and a buffer if you want as well.

I've get more details on the buffing products that I use soon...

Hay Mike,
Well I took your advice an used a white primer by Lusterkote. I resanded the color an applyed two coats o0f white an wet sanded each along with 3 coats of Missle Red with wet sanding between coats an still came out Orange. I thought maybe the momokote Missle Red was shinner then the spray so I put on 2 coats of clear. I am given up. will send picks of final plane when done but here is the Cowl an belly pan. An the same problem with the canopy. I have learned the hard way that Monokote an lusterkote do'es not match.

Wendell,

The only way that I've been able to make Lustercoat match is to use the lustercoat primer, and then paint the object with white lusterkote, and then spray the color. If I'm not mistaken it says on the can to base all colors with a white lusterkote base coat,

Arch

Perhaps the can you have is mislabelled?

I'd be getting in touch with the manufacturer if I was you. I'm sure they can sort it out for you.

Cheers
Jason.

The colors didn't do right but I think it will make up for it in performance. Will do all the graphs tomorrow

2 completed wings. I tols the sign man to make them look like the black magic days of witck craft and dragons. I think it looks cool.

I read somewhere you don't use a starter on the O.S. 1.60, you flip it with a flip stick. With that how do you get fuel for the first time to the engine because it has to go threw the Perry pump Please explain this to me, I am just a dumb old pattern polit. Plane is complete an ready for the grass runway.

Hi Wendell,

I have an OS 1.60 in my Yak with a Perry pump. I only start it by hand with a simple back flip (Clockwise) against compression. To prime the engine I open the carby to full throttle and stick my finger over the venturi and then turn the motor over three times, bring the throttle back to about 1/8th open, connect the plug driver and back flip it. Normally starts first go. Now my engine is side mounted and yours is inverted. This being the case, I suggest starting the engine with the plane inverted only for the first flight of the day. Alternatively just use a starter for the first flight of the day.. From then on it should start upright without priming. You'll find that the mixture control will need to be leaned out about 3 turns from the factory setting. Sounds a lot but if you don't do it the engine will guzzle the juice.

Your plane looks good but... It would look even better if the cowl was painted white and blue to continue the fuse colours right up to the spinner. Also the canopy would look great in black. Just my opinion and everyone to their own as far as a colour scheme is concerned.

Cheers
Jason.

When you say the mixture control are you saying the low side were the screw is in the side of the carberator

Yes it's the screw in the side of the carby. When you adjust it you'll probably need to re-check the top end needle as well. Once the needles and pump are set you can normally leave it and forget it. They are a very reliable motor.

Cheers
Jason.