Electric Osmose Building
04-17-2008 | 11:00 AM
#326
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From: Leicester, , UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Great work there Isaac!
You might want to consider isolating the terminals inside the MCB case from each other, maybe squirt some silicone sealant between each terminal to prevent the possibility of a dead short through the terminals becoming loose! Just a thought.
How is the flying going with the electron powered Osmose? do you prefer it to YS Power?
Kind regards,
Andy.
You might want to consider isolating the terminals inside the MCB case from each other, maybe squirt some silicone sealant between each terminal to prevent the possibility of a dead short through the terminals becoming loose! Just a thought.
How is the flying going with the electron powered Osmose? do you prefer it to YS Power?
Kind regards,
Andy.
04-20-2008 | 12:13 PM
#327
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From: a, ISRAEL
RE: Electric Osmose Building
hey nagery
Model TP6P10E Price 3.99
Description 6-pin 10" balancer extension for the tp 210 . it will help you when you Charg
(you need 4 like this).
the model look and fly good in the air next time i whant to fly your model mayby i will still it to italy.
Model TP6P10E Price 3.99
Description 6-pin 10" balancer extension for the tp 210 . it will help you when you Charg
(you need 4 like this).
the model look and fly good in the air next time i whant to fly your model mayby i will still it to italy.
04-21-2008 | 05:17 AM
#328
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From: Moss, NORWAY
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Isaac.
Very nice looking plane.
I am a little concerned about the rear attachment of the battery tray, where the carbon rods are glued on to the wing tube sleeve.
Ref. pictures in post 291.
Are you sure this is strong enough?
(Just a thought...)
Regards,
Magne
Very nice looking plane.
I am a little concerned about the rear attachment of the battery tray, where the carbon rods are glued on to the wing tube sleeve.
Ref. pictures in post 291.
Are you sure this is strong enough?
(Just a thought...)
Regards,
Magne
04-21-2008 | 12:25 PM
#329
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: Magne
Isaac.
Very nice looking plane.
I am a little concerned about the rear attachment of the battery tray, where the carbon rods are glued on to the wing tube sleeve.
Ref. pictures in post 291.
Are you sure this is strong enough?
(Just a thought...)
Regards,
Magne
Isaac.
Very nice looking plane.
I am a little concerned about the rear attachment of the battery tray, where the carbon rods are glued on to the wing tube sleeve.
Ref. pictures in post 291.
Are you sure this is strong enough?
(Just a thought...)
Regards,
Magne
Till now the plane has 43 flights without any failure,
Take a look at the little plywood pieces, (post 233), where the carbon rods touch the wing tube, these are very essential.
Regards,
Isaac Najary
05-07-2008 | 11:18 AM
#330
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
I have now 74 flights on the Osmose, here are some data:
C.G. = 10 mm back from the center of the wing tube (243 mm from the root TE ).
Mixers:
RUD - AIL = left +3, right 0
RUD - ELE = left -2, right 0
THR - ELE = low -2, high 0
THR - RUD = low -2, high 0
Regards,
Isaac Najary
C.G. = 10 mm back from the center of the wing tube (243 mm from the root TE ).
Mixers:
RUD - AIL = left +3, right 0
RUD - ELE = left -2, right 0
THR - ELE = low -2, high 0
THR - RUD = low -2, high 0
Regards,
Isaac Najary
05-07-2008 | 11:31 AM
#331
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Now is the time to remove the wings adjusters and to save 14 gram more (4,853-4,839).
The final weight is 4,839 gram (With TP 5000 V2 Extreme).
Regards,
Isaac Najary
The final weight is 4,839 gram (With TP 5000 V2 Extreme).
Regards,
Isaac Najary
05-19-2008 | 07:41 AM
#332
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From: Vienna, AUSTRIA
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Hallo Isaac,
how is the range you have to recharge to the batteries after a P09 (from less wind up to very strong wind).
I have seen in a previous post, you are using the APC 20,5x12WE. Does this prop also fit on strong winds?
Wolfgang
how is the range you have to recharge to the batteries after a P09 (from less wind up to very strong wind).
I have seen in a previous post, you are using the APC 20,5x12WE. Does this prop also fit on strong winds?
Wolfgang
05-20-2008 | 01:05 AM
#333
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Hi Wolfgang
The 20.5 X 12 WE was too slow for strong winds, so I change it to 20.5 X 14 E (30 gam less).
For P-09 it takes from 3,800 mah to 4,200 mah, depending on the winds.
Regards,
Isaac Najary
The 20.5 X 12 WE was too slow for strong winds, so I change it to 20.5 X 14 E (30 gam less).
For P-09 it takes from 3,800 mah to 4,200 mah, depending on the winds.
Regards,
Isaac Najary
05-30-2008 | 01:42 AM
#335
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Hello Isaac,
you wrote that you have the "C.G. = 10 mm back from the center of the wing tube".
I have the C.G. >10mm in front of the center of the wing tube - I started at about 0mm, but the Osmose didn't perform well with this C.G.
Do you have any idea why we have so different setups ?
Regards,
Christian
05-31-2008 | 01:34 AM
#336
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: christian_oele
Hello Isaac,
you wrote that you have the "C.G. = 10 mm back from the center of the wing tube".
I have the C.G. >10mm in front of the center of the wing tube - I started at about 0mm, but the Osmose didn't perform well with this C.G.
Do you have any idea why we have so different setups ?
Regards,
Christian
Hello Isaac,
you wrote that you have the "C.G. = 10 mm back from the center of the wing tube".
I have the C.G. >10mm in front of the center of the wing tube - I started at about 0mm, but the Osmose didn't perform well with this C.G.
Do you have any idea why we have so different setups ?
Regards,
Christian
Hi Christian
Firstly the C.G. location is personal preference and style.
But the only different setup I can think of is the location of the T-Canalizer, mine is on the fuselage, not on the canopy.
Where is the location of your T-Canalizer ?
Regards,
Isaac Najary
06-02-2008 | 01:10 AM
#337
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Hi Isaac,
thanks for reply.
The T-Canalizer is on the canopy.
Do you realy think that the position of the T-canalizer has so much effect to the C.G. ?
Also knowing that C.G. position is of personal preference, 20mm difference as we have, seems for me to be very much ...
Regards,
Christian
06-02-2008 | 10:25 AM
#340
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Just a quick reminder chaps, any fire proof box is not fire proof unless it is locked shut, if a fire happens inside, the expanding air will open the door or lid and let in Oxygen.
Mike
Mike
06-03-2008 | 12:25 AM
#342
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: christian_oele
Hi Isaac,
thanks for reply.
The T-Canalizer is on the canopy.
Do you realy think that the position of the T-canalizer has so much effect to the C.G. ?
Also knowing that C.G. position is of personal preference, 20mm difference as we have, seems for me to be very much ...
Regards,
Christian
Hi christian
Divergence of 20mm of the C.G. is very common, in the plan of the Oxalays (and other plans) the divergence of C.G. is 20mm.
There are so many variants that has influence on the C.G. location. For example, the distance between the wing and the stabilizer,
I think that in the ARF version of the Osmose the distance between the wing and the stabilizer is about 10mm shorter than what was marked in the mold.
Also in my Osmose the incidence of the wing is different from what was marked in the mold (see picture).
Regards,
Isaac Najary
Hi Isaac,
thanks for reply.
The T-Canalizer is on the canopy.
Do you realy think that the position of the T-canalizer has so much effect to the C.G. ?
Also knowing that C.G. position is of personal preference, 20mm difference as we have, seems for me to be very much ...
Regards,
Christian
Hi christian
Divergence of 20mm of the C.G. is very common, in the plan of the Oxalays (and other plans) the divergence of C.G. is 20mm.
There are so many variants that has influence on the C.G. location. For example, the distance between the wing and the stabilizer,
I think that in the ARF version of the Osmose the distance between the wing and the stabilizer is about 10mm shorter than what was marked in the mold.
Also in my Osmose the incidence of the wing is different from what was marked in the mold (see picture).
Regards,
Isaac Najary
08-17-2008 | 01:43 PM
#344
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From: boca raton,
FL
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Hi Najary,
This looks like a sensational build and plane! I ready to set the incidences on my own Osmose. I see back in this thread where you showed the canopy line as zero, the T-can as zero, and the stab as zero.
What have you settlted on for wing incidence? On my installation, with the canopy line at zero degrees, the engine shows 1.75 degree down thrust.
Thank You,
Jim W.
This looks like a sensational build and plane! I ready to set the incidences on my own Osmose. I see back in this thread where you showed the canopy line as zero, the T-can as zero, and the stab as zero.
What have you settlted on for wing incidence? On my installation, with the canopy line at zero degrees, the engine shows 1.75 degree down thrust.
Thank You,
Jim W.
08-18-2008 | 09:07 PM
#345
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From: boca raton,
FL
RE: Electric Osmose Building
Hi Najary,
I had left mounting the T-cannalizer as the final step in the model, thinking this would be an easy step. Attached is a photo of my newly discovered situation. With the airplane jigged-up at zero degrees (canopy line and stab), the T-Can is more than 1.0 degree positive. In order to see how much I would need to adjust the T-Can, I added a 1/8" spacer underneath the trailing edge of the T-can as shown in the photo. This is still not enough to bring the T-Can to "zero" degrees.
I am thinking to trim the bottom of the T-can to get the correct angle. I will need to trim (starting at the LE) about 3/16" off.
Did your T-can arrive at the correct incidence, or did you need to go though a sanding to get it to sit at zero degrees?
Thank You,
Jim W.
I had left mounting the T-cannalizer as the final step in the model, thinking this would be an easy step. Attached is a photo of my newly discovered situation. With the airplane jigged-up at zero degrees (canopy line and stab), the T-Can is more than 1.0 degree positive. In order to see how much I would need to adjust the T-Can, I added a 1/8" spacer underneath the trailing edge of the T-can as shown in the photo. This is still not enough to bring the T-Can to "zero" degrees.
I am thinking to trim the bottom of the T-can to get the correct angle. I will need to trim (starting at the LE) about 3/16" off.
Did your T-can arrive at the correct incidence, or did you need to go though a sanding to get it to sit at zero degrees?
Thank You,
Jim W.
08-19-2008 | 11:15 AM
#346
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: jim woodward
Hi Najary,
This looks like a sensational build and plane! I ready to set the incidences on my own Osmose. I see back in this thread where you showed the canopy line as zero, the T-can as zero, and the stab as zero.
What have you settlted on for wing incidence? On my installation, with the canopy line at zero degrees, the engine shows 1.75 degree down thrust.
Thank You,
Jim W.
Hi Najary,
This looks like a sensational build and plane! I ready to set the incidences on my own Osmose. I see back in this thread where you showed the canopy line as zero, the T-can as zero, and the stab as zero.
What have you settlted on for wing incidence? On my installation, with the canopy line at zero degrees, the engine shows 1.75 degree down thrust.
Thank You,
Jim W.
In my Osmose the incidence of the wing is different from what was marked in the mold (see picture).
Regards,
Isaac Najary
08-19-2008 | 11:38 AM
#347
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: jim woodward
Hi Najary,
I had left mounting the T-cannalizer as the final step in the model, thinking this would be an easy step. Attached is a photo of my newly discovered situation. With the airplane jigged-up at zero degrees (canopy line and stab), the T-Can is more than 1.0 degree positive. In order to see how much I would need to adjust the T-Can, I added a 1/8" spacer underneath the trailing edge of the T-can as shown in the photo. This is still not enough to bring the T-Can to "zero" degrees.
I am thinking to trim the bottom of the T-can to get the correct angle. I will need to trim (starting at the LE) about 3/16" off.
Did your T-can arrive at the correct incidence, or did you need to go though a sanding to get it to sit at zero degrees?
Thank You,
Jim W.
Hi Najary,
I had left mounting the T-cannalizer as the final step in the model, thinking this would be an easy step. Attached is a photo of my newly discovered situation. With the airplane jigged-up at zero degrees (canopy line and stab), the T-Can is more than 1.0 degree positive. In order to see how much I would need to adjust the T-Can, I added a 1/8" spacer underneath the trailing edge of the T-can as shown in the photo. This is still not enough to bring the T-Can to "zero" degrees.
I am thinking to trim the bottom of the T-can to get the correct angle. I will need to trim (starting at the LE) about 3/16" off.
Did your T-can arrive at the correct incidence, or did you need to go though a sanding to get it to sit at zero degrees?
Thank You,
Jim W.
My T-can did not arrive at the correct incidence, I needed to go though a sanding process to get it to sit at zero degrees.
See post 159, 160 first pic.
Regards,
Isaac Najary
02-13-2009 | 11:41 AM
#350
Thread Starter
RE: Electric Osmose Building
The following was sent to you through RC Universe:
-
Hi!Najary,
I'm really impressed with your OSMOSE building article.
My electric Osmose has been started. Could you inform me the parts of the Monokote? It was little hard to recognize through your pictures. I wish to order same color what you used.
By the way, my name is Kyuho Lee who lives in Florida US.
I've working on many RC and UAV stuffs as a work.
Please advise me Thanks,
Young
Hi Young
Here it is:
Top:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0421&search=Go
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV23&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV41&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV22&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHV70&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHV21&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV51&P=7
Bottom:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0421&search=Go
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV22&P=7
Regards,
Isaac Najary
-
Hi!Najary,
I'm really impressed with your OSMOSE building article.
My electric Osmose has been started. Could you inform me the parts of the Monokote? It was little hard to recognize through your pictures. I wish to order same color what you used.
By the way, my name is Kyuho Lee who lives in Florida US.
I've working on many RC and UAV stuffs as a work.
Please advise me Thanks,
Young
Hi Young
Here it is:
Top:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0421&search=Go
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV23&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV41&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV22&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHV70&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHV21&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV51&P=7
Bottom:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0421&search=Go
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHV22&P=7
Regards,
Isaac Najary
