What is the best servos for this plane.

You could say it is a bit overkill, but I used what I had laying around. JR 8311's for elevator and rudder, JR 9411SA's on ailerons.

I'm using the DS821's that came with the Spektrum DX7 they are Digital and seem to work fine for a very inexpensive Digital servo, I have lots of other servo's I could have used, but these seemed best at the time ballancing weight against holding power.

Mike

Just to inform you that I lost last week my beautiful Angel 50 , built by Jean-Pierre Zardini from ZN LINE

It's a very good flying airplane

During the last part of a knife edge loop, the canopy seperated, setting the switch to off.........

I think it could be a good idea to improve the way the canopy is secured, and/or change the switch location.

Oh nasty to stand and watch as it goes in must be the worst case senario, sorry for your loss, I also had the canopy on mine come off very early in its life, so a sprung catch went on the back of the canopy to keep it on, it also helps with getting the canopy off.

Mike

JP sorry to hear what happened man! Ouch ...

Flew my new Angel this weekend and was very happy with it.

Like most of the others it weighs six pounds exactly with the battery.
I'm using an E-Flite power 60 with an APC 15x10 and a Flight Power 6S 3700 pack.

This numbers on the watt meter were 48.8 amps and 1140 watts and this gave me unlimited
vertical even though our density altitude saturday was 6200 feet.

Should be a lot of fun.

Bob

How hot does the recommended hacker setup a50-16S with Xpro 70 SB pro get after a flight with a 16x10 apc. I had a scorpion 4020-10 and I should have got the 4025-12. Loooking for a new motor and ESC. My scorpion 120 amp 6 cell esc went on fire before the second flight of my angel 50 E and burnt a large hole in it and killed a 5s 4000mah pack. The US distributributors ofScorpion products Innov8tivedesigns.com has not returned any emails in the last week. I sent them the esc and motor almost a month ago. Just want to make sure the recommended set up doesn't run too hot. Do I need to use a separate BEC with the hacker XPRO SB 70. Can it handle 6S lipo without a seperate bec.

I have the Hacker X Pro ESC and that is excellent with my AXI 4130/16 on 6S FlightPower 4350Mah with a 16 x 10 prop, the pro series of ESC's have a stepping BEC and can take the power requirements of four digital servo's.

Mike

Wow, Thats a nice Axi set up. The motor is only 2 oz heavier but you amp consumption is maybe I am guessing around 60amps at full throttle according to the axi website. How is the speed in level flight and vertical climbs? I am at 5500ft elevation. Scorpion is sending me a replacement ESC 6 cell switching 120Amp. I ordered a 4025-12 with 6S lipo and 16-10 apc-e should be 78 amps at full throttle (motor is rated at 85amps max) It should stay very cool. The Watts 1747 pitch speed 76.5mph, prop speed 8082 rev. and thrust 225 oz or (14 lbs). I am hoping this set up will work well and not give me very short flight times. The amps seem consistent with what some have reported with the hacker setup but I think this setup will keep everything cooler.

Jadamian75

level flight and vertical climbs are all you want or need, it will pull out of a verticle prop hang no problem if that is your bag level flight and knife edge just go on for ever, the suprising thing about all this is I am pulling about 60 amps at full throttle with a fresh battery, but then again I fly at sea level, in fact I think part of our site is below sea level, well it certainly seems like it when the tide is in. LOL.

One other thing mine came out under 6Lbs, don't ask why I don't know.

Mike

Mine is also under 6lbs . . as we discussed earlier in this thread. I think airframe weights DO vary with this plane, and obviously equipment choices make a difference.

I have had TWO of these (don't ask why . . the first one didn't last long [&o]) . . and the first weighed less than my current.

Still an awesome flying little plane . . . great P09 practice, that's for sure.

Cheers, JB

My speed controller must have got too hot and I had no throttle to land. I ended up possible loosening the blind nuts on my landing attemp. I have only 1 screw on the landing gear that is tight the other two are all the way down and just spin with out tightening. 1 also won't spin out to remove the gear. Any suggestions. It does not seem like I can access them from the other side unless I cut through the sheeted wood which I rather not do.

You will prpbably find the bolts have stripped, you need to pull them upwards whilst turning them to get back to a bit of thread that is still OK, undo the good bolt and flex the UC to put pressure on the spinning bolts and then turn the stripped ones that may work.

Mike

I just finished mine. Flying it on 5S 5000 packs with the same setup as Joe L. Flies pretty well despite the excessive up elevator trim required.
The trim in the pictures is for level flight with the CG right at 145 mm back from the leading edge (front of wing tube) and even a little behind that. I have never had a plane require this much elevator trim. It is not a thrust issue as there is no real change in attitude from full throttle to idle. I measured the incidences using an aeroperfect meter and found the stab to be 1.4 degrees positive compared to the wing. I doubt that is what the manufacturer planned. Has anyone else experienced this issue.
Thanks,
Stuart

My CG is at 140mm from LE at root. I only fly Pattern with mine, so I prefer the 'locked in' feel at this CG.

WOW . . You have something wrong there ! ! . . My elevator is trimmed dead neutral . . as are the ailerons. This little ship trimmed out absolutely perfectly IMO.

I would doubt that there is anything wrong with the manufactured settings on your plane. All parts are lazer cut (i.e. computer controlled from the ONE program) . . and I believe they are jig built also.

From memory, I think my wings had +.75deg positive incidence on the wing (stab at zero) . .

Set your fuse up with the stab at zero, and tell us what your wing incidence is . . you may need to file the holes in the fuse for the carbon pins to get it somewhere near .5 to 1deg positive incidence (LE up). . . then fit new ply doubler with corresponding hole to the inside of the fuse. I would be SHOCKED if you need to do this though . . weird !

Cheers, JB

Mine flies with some UP elevator trim, not as much as Stuart's. Its not the CG for sure as she is almost hands free inverted. It does not affect my KE for sure, that's weird huh? I do find it affects my down lines. She wants to pull towards the nose then. Maybe I will take the CG a little further back this weekend and see how it handles.

If my stab is 1.4 degrees positive from the wing then the wing will be 1.4 degrees neagative with the stab at 0. The wing is pretty close to level with the top of the fuse (canopy area) About .1 degree different. I suspect that is likely correct.

Stuart

double post - see below

Hahahaha . . Yeah . . that was my "cute" way of suggesting to double check it.

The wing to stab relationship needs to be = stab ZERO / wing PLUS .5 to .75 degree .. if you have a MINUS reading on the wing, that is wrong ! . . and will explain the amount of up trimmed in (looks like about 15 clicks ! )

Unless you want to cut the stab out and re-set it, just adjust the wing incidence by filing the locating pin holes and refit small doublers. You'll need to get your wing/stab relationship correct . . then adjust your thrust after flight checking. This may result in the plane flying in a (very) slight tail high attitude, but that's no problem. It 'presents' better in the air than tail low

Did your stab fit in tight . . needing sanding ???

Just trying to help . .

Cheers, JB

The stab was actuall pretty tight. No way to explain it being off that much. Trim wa actually 22 clicks on a Futaba 14 MZ.
I need to fly it more to see if I want to cut and change things. So far I have let my son fly it most of the time. I think the trim affects vertical lines quite a bit as the plane slows for a stall turn.

Can anyone compare their wing incidence to the top of the fue (under the canopy. I would like to know which is off. My wing or stab. Truthfully I would like the fuse and stab replaced but I doubt that wil happen.

Stuart

Just a quick check . . measured with a digital vernier from the top of the fuse (canopy base) to the top of the wing locating (anti-rotation) pin holes is:-

LEFT
Front = 53.03mm
Rear = 53.39mm

RIGHT
Front = 53.34mm
Rear = 53.71mm

Cheers, JB

Just a thought . .

Have you checked if your stab tips are true . . ??????

I had a ARF 2M Pattern plane with a built up wing, and the wing tips were shaped badly with the tips both dropping away (down). This was easy to pick up, because the ailerons lined up perfectly with the wing root section, but were showing significant misalignment at the tips (like your elevatos), and the ailerons were not warped.

Look closely at the forming of the tip shape . . is it symetrical, or perhaps glued on crooked (jig shift during manufacture, or something)? Then check that the elvators in the neutral position (aligned with the tips) produce a correct symetrical section, may need to make a simple balsa jig to measure this.

If this is the same/similar problem that I had with the 2M . . you may need to cut across the tip underneath at the elevator hing line, and "bend" them up and CA to meet the elevators while holding them in position and hit with kicker (I.E. don't cut right through from the bottom through top/covering (leave about 3 to 4mm of balsa (say 3/16") . . you don't see underneath, and you won't even notice it at the top ).

Cheers, JB

The elevators go straight across. Meet both the stab tips the same. You can see that the elevator is way off neutral (with required trim) when siting from behind. The incidence measurements would tell me that one of the surfaces is way off. Jeff's measurements to the front and rear of the wing show that it is close to neutral with the top of the fuse (canopy base). Less than .4 mm difference which is probably close to where mine are based on my wing incidence measurement. So that would mean my stab is off almost 2 degrees. Hard to believe as that is quite a bit. I guess the stab could be cut free and refitted but that would be a PIA. I wrote to both the manufacturer and the online source I purchased it from and ghaven't heard from either.
Stuart

Hey Folks,

Putting together my shopping list, but I'm stuck on servos. I prefer ease of build so I want to buy servos that fit perfectly, but are of high quality, and I can't find the recommended JR DS9401 servos for sale in the US.



Any suggestions?


Thanks,


Joe