the hyper st PRO thread!
#276
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From: Chinnor, UNITED KINGDOM
What about the receiver battery pack, is that included?
Going to stick with the stock battery arrangement for a while rather than do the hyper 8 mod.
Thanks vnmsgt
Going to stick with the stock battery arrangement for a while rather than do the hyper 8 mod.
Thanks vnmsgt
#277
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From: winter garden,
FL
You do not get a battery pack but you do get the battery holder and 2 of them, one for the humpack to fit and one for the flat pack so whichever battery you have you can use it for now till you do the box mod.
#278
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From: Chinnor, UNITED KINGDOM
Cheers,
Is there a type of pack which I will be able to re-use when I do the battery mod?
What would you recommend as the minimum current rating?
Is there a type of pack which I will be able to re-use when I do the battery mod?
What would you recommend as the minimum current rating?
#279
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From: winter garden,
FL
I have not done the battery box mod yet so do not know if the flat pack will fit. I do not have any, just hump packs. Batteries are never really a problem with me. I have the stock ones that come with RTR's LOL, and they do fine. I also have some for my other trucks I got and they are 1400-1600 mah and work fine. Some people like the bigger ones in the 2000's or so but when I go out I bring 3 or 4 cars with me so I never run a single one that long to drain the battery dead real quick. If this is your only truck and only battery and you are going to be running for more than an hour at a time with the same truck you might want to get one over 2000, if not the others will do.
#280
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BTW, FYI, the JConcepts body for the Mugen MBX5T is a perfect fit for the HST.. This one is for my Muggy - now I can use it for both, which is cool..
The body though is very flimsy.. I think they have a HD version though..
I sure do like the lines...(despite my batman paint-job...)

The body though is very flimsy.. I think they have a HD version though..
I sure do like the lines...(despite my batman paint-job...)

#282
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From: Deland, FL
Hey guys A Main screwed up my order on the TT ST1 so..... I am taking that as a sign and going with what I wanted to begin with, I just didnt want to pass up such a great deal on the TT. So does anyone know where the best price on a Hyper ST is? or if you live in FL. I pretty much travel the whole state so It shouldnt be problem for me to get my hands on one say in Miami or Panama City. thanks for the help
#283
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
hi guys.. just a quick one, i own an rtr hyper st and the center diff holder (plastic part) flex real bad when brake is applied. u guys with the pro kit have this problem??.. it really affect my trucks braking....
#284
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Sorry, LBJ, haven't run mine yet.., so can't help ya..
I have a question though - is the Pro pipe worth keeping?? I'm getting a Tsais T32, so this is just sitting around.. Is it a good pipe though?? What's it comparable to??
I have a question though - is the Pro pipe worth keeping?? I'm getting a Tsais T32, so this is just sitting around.. Is it a good pipe though?? What's it comparable to??
#287
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From: Deland, FL
Patrick, I love the black wheels and the new jconcepts body!! I was wondering when you dyed the wheels did you do that with the tires on? or did you have to strip the tires then reglue them? seems like a lot of work but the looks are well worth it! nice job.
#288
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From: McAllen,
TX
the ST PRO comes with the tires and wheels separate not glued so he just dyed the wheels and then glued the tires (I think)
No need to locktite the wheel nuts, you're fine.
No need to locktite the wheel nuts, you're fine.
#289
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Thanks rican25.. Yeah, I haven't glued them yet.. (and dreading it - I HATE gluing tires... Hard to do without making a mess..)
So far my RC experience consists of a Savage and Lightning GT, which never needed locktiting, and also two Losis, and with the Losis you always have to locktite the wheel nuts..(and basically the whole truck..)
But OK, I won't locktite them..
zJatorad, how do you reckon the Hyper ST Pro pipe compares to a Tsais T32?? I'm soon to have both, and only really need one..(selling the Picco 28 I got for my LST2, and with the dough gonna buy an OS 28...)
So far my RC experience consists of a Savage and Lightning GT, which never needed locktiting, and also two Losis, and with the Losis you always have to locktite the wheel nuts..(and basically the whole truck..)
But OK, I won't locktite them..
zJatorad, how do you reckon the Hyper ST Pro pipe compares to a Tsais T32?? I'm soon to have both, and only really need one..(selling the Picco 28 I got for my LST2, and with the dough gonna buy an OS 28...)
#291
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From: Chinnor, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: zJatoRad
I bet the ST Pro pipe is a 2 chamber pipe, because it's designed for 28 engines, it must be a top end pipe. So i would keep it.
I bet the ST Pro pipe is a 2 chamber pipe, because it's designed for 28 engines, it must be a top end pipe. So i would keep it.
Also, Patrick - How do you die the wheels and wing? It looks so much better in black!
#292
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I think the stuff in the US is called "rit" dye.. You can probably buy it at Walmart or whatever(I hate Walmart though, so buy it elsewhere..
)
Anyway, get a big pot, fill it 2/3 with water(enough so two rims will be submerged..), add a tabelspoon or so of salt, bring it to a simmer, so it's just under a boil, mix in the dye(it's crystals..), and ease in your two rims. I did a search on another forum and the guy said do 2 rims 5 minutes at a time, but that wasn't enough, so I left two rims in for 15-20 minutes.. The time is only important I think if you want to dye colors like orange or green or whatever.. For black I just leave 'em in for a good 15-20 minutes.. Then - being very careful to not get black dye all over your kitchen - take the two rims out and immediately rinse them with cold water in the sink.. It won't stain your sink BTW - but it may well dye your counter, floor, clothes, etc.. But if you're careful it's no biggy..
So, pot, 2/3 full, add salt, bring to simmer, add dye, add rims, 15-20 minutes, take out and rinse under cold water, done.
I just threw the wing in and left it for 15 minutes...
It's really totally easy - at least if you're only doing black....
)Anyway, get a big pot, fill it 2/3 with water(enough so two rims will be submerged..), add a tabelspoon or so of salt, bring it to a simmer, so it's just under a boil, mix in the dye(it's crystals..), and ease in your two rims. I did a search on another forum and the guy said do 2 rims 5 minutes at a time, but that wasn't enough, so I left two rims in for 15-20 minutes.. The time is only important I think if you want to dye colors like orange or green or whatever.. For black I just leave 'em in for a good 15-20 minutes.. Then - being very careful to not get black dye all over your kitchen - take the two rims out and immediately rinse them with cold water in the sink.. It won't stain your sink BTW - but it may well dye your counter, floor, clothes, etc.. But if you're careful it's no biggy..
So, pot, 2/3 full, add salt, bring to simmer, add dye, add rims, 15-20 minutes, take out and rinse under cold water, done.
I just threw the wing in and left it for 15 minutes...
It's really totally easy - at least if you're only doing black....
#294
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Well, I'm in Germany...
This is what it looks like..:
http://www.monster-hopups.de/product...oducts_id=7560
It says RPM in that shop, but it's not.. I buy it(cheaper) at a craft shop...
I think if you do a search here at RCU under like "dying wheels" you'll find the right name.. Maybe it's also "rit" dye in the UK.. Google it.
This is what it looks like..:
http://www.monster-hopups.de/product...oducts_id=7560
It says RPM in that shop, but it's not.. I buy it(cheaper) at a craft shop...
I think if you do a search here at RCU under like "dying wheels" you'll find the right name.. Maybe it's also "rit" dye in the UK.. Google it.
#295
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: PatrickBW
Thanks..
One other question I've been wondering about - should I locktite the wheel nuts?
Thanks..
One other question I've been wondering about - should I locktite the wheel nuts?
#296
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From: winter garden,
FL
I am not a serious racer or anything but only run on tracks. Anybody have any experience with this servo, it has 180oz of torque at .17 sec. which is good and is as fast as my JR650 servo and it is cheap! Thinking of trying a couple for the hell of it. I usually use JR650 and just bought a Hitec with 140oz. of torque but I can buy about 4 of these for the price I pay for one of them. Here are two. They are the same servos but branded differently.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Metal-Gear-To...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/MG995-13kg-outpu...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Metal-Gear-To...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/MG995-13kg-outpu...QQcmdZViewItem
#297
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
hey guys.. heres what i've done to my hyper st RTR.. ok dont chase me away to the RTR thread please.
guess the pro-thread got more hits. hahaha. btw ive planted a jammin .28 together with a tsais M32 hard anod truggy pipe. managed to run it yesterday, man the combination rocks! the truggy handles good, and turning is as good, if not better than a crt. I use to own a CRT i sold it cos waiting for the X2 to be launched.. and meanwhile got this hyper st to relieve my truggy craving. Ive done the hyper8 battery mod, used 8.5 engine mounts and also upgraded to cnc knuckles. I switched to a hyper 7 front brake cam, didnt like the stocker and use a cnc hyper 7 center top diff plate. still got problems with my braking. the plastic flex real bad. i can even flex it with my fingers.. i intend to race this truggy and my driving style is i do alot of hard late braking.. i guess i need a solution to this.. anybody can help me out. thanks in advance
guess the pro-thread got more hits. hahaha. btw ive planted a jammin .28 together with a tsais M32 hard anod truggy pipe. managed to run it yesterday, man the combination rocks! the truggy handles good, and turning is as good, if not better than a crt. I use to own a CRT i sold it cos waiting for the X2 to be launched.. and meanwhile got this hyper st to relieve my truggy craving. Ive done the hyper8 battery mod, used 8.5 engine mounts and also upgraded to cnc knuckles. I switched to a hyper 7 front brake cam, didnt like the stocker and use a cnc hyper 7 center top diff plate. still got problems with my braking. the plastic flex real bad. i can even flex it with my fingers.. i intend to race this truggy and my driving style is i do alot of hard late braking.. i guess i need a solution to this.. anybody can help me out. thanks in advance
#298
Senior Member
LBJ, so you like this pipe?? Tell me more... I'm trading an 086 for one..
Also, what was that about Hyper 8.5 engine mounts?? Is that just the ones from the Hyper ST Pro??
I can't get my Mach to fit at the mo..
Also, what was that about Hyper 8.5 engine mounts?? Is that just the ones from the Hyper ST Pro??
I can't get my Mach to fit at the mo..
#299
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
ORIGINAL: PatrickBW
LBJ, so you like this pipe?? Tell me more... I'm trading an 086 for one..
Also, what was that about Hyper 8.5 engine mounts?? Is that just the ones from the Hyper ST Pro??
I can't get my Mach to fit at the mo..
LBJ, so you like this pipe?? Tell me more... I'm trading an 086 for one..
Also, what was that about Hyper 8.5 engine mounts?? Is that just the ones from the Hyper ST Pro??
I can't get my Mach to fit at the mo..
im liking the pipe very much..just got back from testing it for real at the track just now. i pair the pipe with a jammin .28. i have some trouble tuning it in the 1st place but i finally got it. it totally screams at the top. good low end too. as for hyper 8.5 mounts i got it from my local hobby shop. i need to do some modification to the chasis and add spacers to increase the height. my rtr chasis has no milling at the area where the motor sits, so the spacers are needed to prevent the crankcase from contacting the chasis when mounted. i also have to file off the mounting screw hole (chasis) as it is abit off. this is considering im using a box starter. my jammin comes with a standard backplate. i dont know bout ur mach but the idea is not to let the motor come in contact with the chasis when mounted.
#300
Senior Member
Hmm... Thanks.
I'm totally confused about what to do engine-wise..
I just took my LST2 out for a quick bash, and D.AMN!!! that Mach impresses me every time.. And the Muggy Mach I want to put in the Hyper is supposedly even better cuz of a bigger carb...
So I really want to use the Mach in the Hyper..
I just can't decide if I should get the bump-start backplate(which I can get here in Germany..), or get the XTM 24.7 backplate so I can go rotostart...(would have to order from US..)
Not keen on having to buy a bumpbox either.. Friggin' expensive...
I'm totally confused about what to do engine-wise..
I just took my LST2 out for a quick bash, and D.AMN!!! that Mach impresses me every time.. And the Muggy Mach I want to put in the Hyper is supposedly even better cuz of a bigger carb...
So I really want to use the Mach in the Hyper..
I just can't decide if I should get the bump-start backplate(which I can get here in Germany..), or get the XTM 24.7 backplate so I can go rotostart...(would have to order from US..)
Not keen on having to buy a bumpbox either.. Friggin' expensive...


