Here is a pic of my servo arm. I did use the stock one but could not get the truck to steer good. After putting this on it steers awesome![/quote]

ok I am going with the idea of the screws being factory set then, now I have another problem... I have heard about this happening to someone before just not sure which thread I was in at the time but anyway... truck is brand spanking new and I inspect the truck only to find that the oil in the left rear shock has leaked out!! the evidence being the round dark spot in my cardboard box and the very wet look and feel of the shock and spring itself, also because when I depress the shock there seems to be some friction going on in there and the other is just as smooth as can be. Should Ofna be sending a new shock my way or would it just be better and faster to rebuild this one? If rebuilding is the way to go then how do I know what weight of oil they used at the factory? or does someone here have a better weight of oil to go with? and last question for right now I swear....... if I rebuild the rear shocks what weight should I use to rebuild the front shocks? thanks guys.

Additional video footage from last weekends races.

http://www.pro****-racing.org/NCRC-Q...ng-128-85.html

Ok I got the rear shock off and after struggling with the lower mounting screw, I finally found out that it is reverse threaded!!! I am just wondering why they didnt note that in the instructions or not made it more clear (i will look at the instructions more closely in the am.) also why not drill all the optional mounting points? I only as these questions as I am still very new to R/C. as this is my 2nd car. is this normal? the shocks being..... is it broke? i dont know. I will take this one to a LHS and see what they say about it but I guess now that its off I will just rebuild them all if possible.

VNMSGT...... I know youre out there bro, so help me out, what should I be running keeping the local track in mind (Clermont) as far as shock oil F/R. and I am thinking that F/7 C/10 R/3 is pretty much standard? or at least a good starting point for the diff oils?

Its definately the same washer, I put it on top of the diagram on the left and it was the same size.

I will take some pics tomorrow night (out for a few a Christmas drinks tonight).

Cheers vnmsgt!

Rican - The 7/10/3 combination has been recommended to me as a good starting point. Its what im going with.

jaywax,

Those are some great videos! Was that a friend of yours doing the videographer work? Whoever it was, they did a super job! One of the best I've ever viewed - great stuff!

There from a guy named Griz. He films in the Austin/San Antonio area. If you go to the member video section, you can see some more of his vids.

never to the top, heat inside expands the oil and causes massive failure. fill them just enough to cover the crosspins, about 1/2 way. anymore and you will have cronic leaks. trust me.

please let some out or there will be posts of diff problems with the st, i'm about 30 days away from ordering now.

anybody seen or thought of a pbs conversion on the st pro?

Ran my hyper tonight and I love this thing. Have not ran it too much because I had a fuel leak problem which was in my carb and then my steering servo fried and I put in a different one with a shorter servo arm and had steering problems till I put the longer arm on, but now it is good.

One think I have noticed is on short tracks with tight turns the truck likes to push out of the turn pretty good. I was told because it is from the center spider diff that the spider diff was meant for europe and not the US and is better running on grass and stuff and not the clay we run on, and that the hypers with the regular center diff were sent to europe by mistake and the spiders diffs sent here. Is that true?

Also would a regular center diff stop this pushing problem? Like I said only on short tight tracks, On larger tracks it is fine. I was told the spider diff tends to want to lock up the front and rear tires like a full time 4wd and not let them work more independently like a regular center diff.

Is that 2DMAXX's X-Ray I saw in there??..

VNMSGT - Here's some photos

The first one shows the manual with the washer.
Second one shows the end of the diff with the washer next to the bearing (where it should be)
Final one shows that the washer is big enough to slide over the diff cup - Surely this cant be right?

Yes that is correct. When you put the diff in the diff case the washer will be in between or sandwhiched by the diff case and the bearing. This is what shims it inside the case to the gear that the center driveshaft connects too. When the diff is removed the washer will fall off of the cup.

Ok, it just didnt seem right! I will carry on making them up now. Thanks alot for your help. (I dare say I'll be needing it again!)

I'm pretty sure I left those rings out and shimmed it some other way - maybe one extra one inside the diff... Don't really remeber - but I didn't put those gold rings in.. At least there are two left in my little box of screws....

Well they do give extra's depending on how much you want to shim it. Some left over should be ok. I did it like the manual for now and it is ok.

i bealive you can also shim them from the inside, if it is a tight fit the shims sometimes get squashed in between the 2 sections of bulkhead. problem is to add or remove shims you have to disassemble top half of diff, worth the trouble though.

That shim is there to keep the whole diff assembly secure inside the diff housing, so as the ring and pinion mesh correctly. I'm not sure how shimming inside the case will achieve the same result, just curious

if you shim the inside its perfect mesh...i think that gold shim is only there to keep the dust out of the crown pinion area...the bearings are what hold the diff in nice and tight..i too left that shim out..and had no probs ...

I am not talking about the mesh inside the diff, but the mesh of the ring gear (big gear outside diff) and the gear going into the front of the diff case that the center driveshaft goes into. You can shim that too with the spacers. I had mine on my monsoon starting to skip on those gears and took one shim out from the opposite side of the ring gear and put on on the same side of the ring gear and in made the mesh alot tighter and fixed the problem.

Truggy Main Video.

http://www.pro****-racing.org/NCRC-Truggy-128-85.html

man I wish we could have made it to the final sizzler, we were just 4 hours away =(

sorry, i meant shim the bevel gear out a bit from the inside, i read somewhere it helps the mesh by making att the tooth make contact with the other tooths or something. sometimes the crown gear does not reach all the way to the back of the bulkhead where the bevel is, but yes, the side shims go outside and do 1 ata time until the teeth bind a bit, then put that one on the opposite side. it should not be too tight as binding in the teeth wears out the two bearings on the bevel. also too tight a fit in the case wears out the 4 bearings on the side and allows play after some time, reducing the effectiveness of the shim. also too tight will mash up the plastic a bit and damage bulkhead. i've done all of these several times and have learned from my errors.

what the spider does is make you oil thicker with more surface are, more teeth (7k is more like 10k and 10k more like 15k and so on). if you use 10k in the center, throw 10k in the front. this will turn your inside tire faster and pull the truck in at turns, also use a little more rear brake bias. i have my brakes set at about 30% rear drag at neutral, no front, and then 50% front 100% rear at full brake. my truggy had major push problem till i went with 10/10/3 on the diffs, give it a shot. i like to throw the back end around in tight corners.

Sounds like an idea! I too like to let the back out in tight corners. I think I will try it out and see. I think I am running now 7-10-5 but not sure, I have it written down at home.

remember, just enough brake to loosen the rear tires, you have to play with it. if its too much you'll actually see the truck go backwards in some turns, not good when its perfect you'l get the feel for the slide and get on the gas just as it starts, then compensate with the steering to line it up, very cool.