supertib

with a short header on the 086 the Picco 28 actualy has a very strong top end... Not quite as much as a Ninja 28 or a OS 28, but definitely stronger then mills like a Spec 3 and STS 30 or Werk's 28....... When you run the Picco you'll definitely apreciate how good the motor is... header length makes a big difference in that mills top end, with a long header the motor loses alot of RPM...... So to really see what a P3 has you really need the short header... the best dyno runs were from a Novarossi short conical V header and a 9886 pipe..with that pipe and header the P3's top end falls just short of a Ninja 28...

HerrSavage

Is it the pullstart version of the P3, or the bumpstart version??...

I'm concerned my ps version won't cut it on top-end...

LOSI_OFNA

My Feedback: (49)

I only run PS mills or roto start. I dont get serious enuff into racing to commit to lugging around a bumpbox. There isnt enuff difference between the PS and the BS mills to make it worth it to me, My best bud also has the exact same setup as me, but he swears by the Bumpbox. He can just barely inch past me at WOT and the bottom end there isnt ny difference, we run neck and neck. Hes alot better driver then I am and I know its not the difference there, PS get a bad wrap coz of the weight, but the ease of them makes them priceless to me.

supertib

Honestly that P3 28 is going to have the most top end out of any mill you've ever run, even with a long header the P3 outscreams a LRP Spec 3 pretty soundly...the only mills that will exceed it are purebred race mills...And even then the race mills will only beat up the Picco on a race track... geared up for bashing the Picco 28 has a massive powerband ( too much for the track IMO).........I myself run all bumpstart, so i would convert the p3 28 to Bumpstart....

if you think the Spec 3 feels good on top end rest assured the P3 28 will do even better.... The only reason a Spec 3 may feel revvier is because it lack anywhere near the midrange or low end of the Picco..so the Spec 3 takes longer to hit RPM, so it seems to climb longer ...the Picco will spool out much much quicker, and reach top end sooner.....I mean honestly the Picco is a screamer, a Mach or LRP wont even come close to the picco in a Truggy.... With a long LST header though, I could see the P3 losing alot of potential RPM, but in a truggy with proper header no way are the other mills touching the Picco on top.

though I still say a OS 28 would be the best choice for the trug..a P3 a great second choice.....

zJatoRad

------------------------------------ + ------------------------------------------

------------------------------------ = ------------------------------------------

wrat

looks great mate...luurvv the black rims..body is sexy too..good to see a simple paint job..ya dont need all the fancy sprays..

HerrSavage

Are there shock upgrade options for the ST?? I guess from my LST2 and Muggy I've gotten used to these huge shocks, and now I see talk of "big bore" shocks everywhere....

Also, is it normal for a truggy to have different length shocks in front and rear??

zJatoRad

there are no upgrades, the big bores are good, no need for upgrade and yes, it's normal to have different shock length.

HerrSavage

Thanks.. So the big bores would work on the ST??...

zJatoRad

you already have the Big Bores , they're the stockers.

HerrSavage

Uhuhh.... Guess I had a different understanding of "big"... (jk)..

RE shocks, I have 60wt in front and back, and the rear if anything feels too stiff, but the front too soft(too soft for big jumps and bashing anyway.... Prob perfect for handling..)

??..

bentgear

Stock shocks are big bores by last years standards. Yes you are spoiled by the LST shocks. You will most likely find that you will need to rebuild more often than the LST shocks. If you stop and look at the suspension you will notice that unlike the LST the front and rear are very different, that means shocks of different lengths. Try dropping the rear down to 45 wt and it will feel better.

Did you find a cure for the up and down movement in the steering that was bothering you? How much movement is there by measurement?

Ed M.

HerrSavage

Yeah, I got it more or less sorted out.. There's still some play there, but I've heard that's normal.. I'd say the up-and-down play is a few mm...

For the shocks, some stiffer springs up front might be the answer.. I don't know though - I'm just a basher, so these may be perfect for handling... I can well imagine this thing handles 10x better than any of my other trucks...

HerrSavage

OK, next problem... The Mach backplate seems to require quite a bit of extra space over what is offered by the engine mount...

I was hoping 2x of these little brash washers(which I was planning on using with the Picco 28 in the LST2...) on each screw, but I would need to use four on EACH screw.. Furthermore, I would need to use 20mm screws for the mounting to the engine, instead of 15mm... I have neither enough washers, nor enough 20mm screws...

What would be the best solution here?? Go get some more washers and screws?? Try to find some extra spacer plates, or what... The difference that needs to be made up is a good 3mm.. Is that too much to raise it??



Here's what it looks like with enough spacers for the engine-mount to work..:

vnmsgt

same thing I did and it works fine, look

HerrSavage

Did you also have to use 20mm screws?? And did you locktite them??

Just saw this on e-bay.. Is this basically what's needed??

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-Engine-Moun...QQcmdZViewItem

HerrSavage

Ha ha, wouldn't you know it?? My Axial 28 Spec 1S fits perfectly... Looks like the Picco 28 would too??

Why are the Mach backplates so freakin' huge??


I really want to use the Mach in this truck though...

vnmsgt

Mine is not a mach it is a cen.28. What I found out is with the kits they come with motor mounts to use bumpboxes therefore you would just have to put a block off plate on the back of the motor and it does not hang low but the motor is lower so the bumpbox can reach the flywheel easier. They were not designed for rotostarts or pullstarts. Had this problem with me Losi 8ight buggy.

That spacer might work but its from a different car. What would be easier is to get the motor mounts from the hyper ST RTR. They would be taller and let you use your rotostart without spacers. I had to buy the RTR mounts for my 8ight buggy to solve that problem.

What you have already done will work just fine if you leave it like that. Yes I did use loctite but do not know what size screws, they were longer than the ones provided though.

HerrSavage

Well I just tried with both my Axial 28 and my Picco 28, both with PS backplates, and they both fit perfectly...

That suggests that maybe the RTR mounts are just the same.. If the stock - what is it, SH 28? - engine doesn't have a huge backplate like on the Mach, maybe the RTR mounts are just the same as the ones I have now...

I measured about 3mm difference with the MAch, and that spacer is 3,15 mm... Sounds right...

I think I may throw one of my Axials in the Hyper to just try it out in the winter, etc.., and wait to break the Mach in in the spring, so I've got time to find the solution..

I bet the solution is just that plate too...

low_blow_joe

hi guys.. i just got a hyper st rtr. is it possible to convert my centre diff top plate to the pro version. the plastic rtr version looks really crappy and the braking setup doesnt look good. is this conversion possible and where (online) can i get the parts to do it? i cant seem to find the parts for the hyper st pro..

HerrSavage

Yet another question... Installing a new Hitec 5955... Should I use the rubber cushion thingies, or not? Thanks..

(Don't have them on my Muggy, but it's a different set-up and goes straight into the carbon plate..)

vnmsgt

The motor I have in my hyper is exactly the same as a SH.28. Cen just puts there own head on it. The rotostart on my motor is for a SH.28.

HerrSavage

I just read on another forum about the possibility of using an XTM backplate on the Mach.. I guess that would be another option, albeit no less of a hassle, as it too would require ordering from the US.. Plus the end result would be having to use HPI rotostart instead of Losi spin-start, which is what I would prefer.....

droidswarm

Just got my engine (but not my hyper yet!) - Do you get a clutch and flywheel with the hyper?

vnmsgt

Yes you do. You get aluminum clutch shoes, vented clutch bell and flywheel and attaching hardware like the clutch springs and bolts to put it all together, hell you even get a header and pipe and gaskets too.