the hyper st PRO thread!
#101
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From: winter garden,
FL
ORIGINAL: zJatoRad
thought you said it was gonna take you a while!, you are pretty much done :P.
Make sure the set screw that goes in the center cvd and the pinion is very tight, my uncle missed the main because it came loose.
thought you said it was gonna take you a while!, you are pretty much done :P.
Make sure the set screw that goes in the center cvd and the pinion is very tight, my uncle missed the main because it came loose.
#102
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Just bought a Hyper ST Pro for my first build and, after reading the instruction manual, I came up with a question about the use of the taping screws in the assembly of the front shock tower and rear shock tower. I suppose, they are used to go through the CNC towers into the plastic gear boxes to bring them up nice and tight. Or, are there regular machine screws in the kit I should be using?
Vnmsgt great looking build.
Thanks.[sm=confused.gif]
Vnmsgt great looking build.
Thanks.[sm=confused.gif]
#103
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From: winter garden,
FL
I would use the screws it says. I found that the (what I call wood screws) I think hold better in the plastic and not strip out or pull out as easy because of the bigger threads and you can tighten them more. I have those screws in my monsoon and have not had one yet come loose or strip out. The machine screws always come loose, even with some loctite.
#104
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: codeblue
Just bought a Hyper ST Pro for my first build and, after reading the instruction manual, I came up with a question about the use of the taping screws in the assembly of the front shock tower and rear shock tower. I suppose, they are used to go through the CNC towers into the plastic gear boxes to bring them up nice and tight. Or, are there regular machine screws in the kit I should be using?
Vnmsgt great looking build.
Thanks.[sm=confused.gif]
Just bought a Hyper ST Pro for my first build and, after reading the instruction manual, I came up with a question about the use of the taping screws in the assembly of the front shock tower and rear shock tower. I suppose, they are used to go through the CNC towers into the plastic gear boxes to bring them up nice and tight. Or, are there regular machine screws in the kit I should be using?
Vnmsgt great looking build.
Thanks.[sm=confused.gif]
if so just follow the manual..you wont have problems with them..they should be in ya kit..4x15 tp screws..
#105
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Thanks for the information on the tapping screws. Yes, the 4 x 15 mm tp screws on page 3 step 6, and in steps 7, 23, 38, 44, 46, 49, 50, 52, 59, 60, 61 and 74.
The next thing, I need to do is decide if I want to take apart the spider center differential to check for silicone or grease and replace if needed.
Currently, I am looking over the set up page in the back of the instruction manual. Hopefully, to find a happy beginning point for suspension set up.
Thanks again.
[sm=cool.gif]
The next thing, I need to do is decide if I want to take apart the spider center differential to check for silicone or grease and replace if needed.
Currently, I am looking over the set up page in the back of the instruction manual. Hopefully, to find a happy beginning point for suspension set up.
Thanks again.
[sm=cool.gif]
#106
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From: winter garden,
FL
YES TAKE APART THE SPIDER DIFF!!! I did on mine that I just built and it had about enough grease as me spitting one time[X(]. Hardly any at all. I removed what was in there as if there was any anyways and put diff fluid in. If you run it with that amount of grease I guarantee you will blow up that diff very QUICKLY!
#107
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From: winter garden,
FL
Almost done!!! Just bolted in the motor and pipe and fuel line and was testing the servos and brakes. Had to shim up the motor for the mounts that came with it because it is set up for a starter box and I am using a rotorstart. Just used to nuts to move it up. Found out I put the top of the center diff mounts on backwards and holes for the brake cams were too far away for the brakes to work. Other than that it is going good. Hope to have it running tomorrow night. We'll see.
#109
well i ran the crap outta the hyper at our weekend campout at the track! shes a keeper for sure.. i love it! it turns better than i thought was possible? at first i didnt have the brakes set tight enough so i didnt have any and i was still fast on the track! the thing just turns.. once i got it dialed in it was a mad man! heres some pics 30D took.



i landed this!!

luv the hyper.....




i landed this!!


luv the hyper.....
#112
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From: winter garden,
FL
I bought mine from mac_hobbies on ebay for 419 plus 15 to ship. I just bought 2 more from him for my friends who wanted one after seeing mine.
#113
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Link?? Wonder if he'd ship to Germany...
You think these things will go down in price after a bit and some of the hype has died down?? I mean, I like this thing, but it's like $80 more than the TT ST-1 at amain..(OK, you get a pipe, but still...)
EDIT: Nevermind, I saw those on e-bay, but he doesn't ship outside the US..
EDIT, TAKE TWO: I guess $460 at Tower, with $30 off with the discount code bringing it to $430, is the best you're gonna find.. Still "order pending" at Tower, but presumably they'll have them soon..
You think these things will go down in price after a bit and some of the hype has died down?? I mean, I like this thing, but it's like $80 more than the TT ST-1 at amain..(OK, you get a pipe, but still...)
EDIT: Nevermind, I saw those on e-bay, but he doesn't ship outside the US..
EDIT, TAKE TWO: I guess $460 at Tower, with $30 off with the discount code bringing it to $430, is the best you're gonna find.. Still "order pending" at Tower, but presumably they'll have them soon..
#114
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From: McAllen,
TX
You think these things will go down in price after a bit and some of the hype has died down?? I mean, I like this thing, but it's like $80 more than the TT ST-1 at amain..(OK, you get a pipe, but still...)
#115
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From: winter garden,
FL
The TT ST-1 is cheaper only becuase it is on sale right now. Soon it should be back up there in price like the rest of the truggies. Amain is the only ones selling them that cheap. There probably desperate for some business to do that. They have to be losing money on them.
#116
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They're going dirt cheap here and there in Germany too... I just wish I knew if that was because they're not selling so are a great bargain, or if TT is coming out with an ST-2 or something...
#117
heres a lil teaser vid for you guys! were raffling off that hyper at our website so i made a vid... sorry but the site is private, invite only. we have to know ya to get in and no minors...
but check out how fast the hyper is! ive got a modded 528xr in it.
right click and save as..
http://www.whaase.com/pqrs/hyperraffle.wmv
but check out how fast the hyper is! ive got a modded 528xr in it.right click and save as..
http://www.whaase.com/pqrs/hyperraffle.wmv
#118
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
ok hyper st owners...my hyper st pro is going strong..ive just put dynamite pro tune linkages in and dynamite pro brake pads and wooow..it stops..i mean it realy stops quick...
now for a question...i run a sts d30m in mine with 15 tooth vented clutch bell/fioroni clutch, and im useing losi 8ight rims with hyper st pro tires . running 5/10/7 oil in diffs..i cant keep the front down..i mean the front tires are balooning all the time,constantly breaking traction..can sombody recomend a set up to combat this..i dont race (yet) but sorta use it at a bmx track ..
im thinking preload on the rear shocks or heavier oil in centre diff. shocks have been drilled and running 60 wt..?????????
cheers in advance
now for a question...i run a sts d30m in mine with 15 tooth vented clutch bell/fioroni clutch, and im useing losi 8ight rims with hyper st pro tires . running 5/10/7 oil in diffs..i cant keep the front down..i mean the front tires are balooning all the time,constantly breaking traction..can sombody recomend a set up to combat this..i dont race (yet) but sorta use it at a bmx track ..
im thinking preload on the rear shocks or heavier oil in centre diff. shocks have been drilled and running 60 wt..?????????
cheers in advance
#119
probably thicker center juice, try 10/20/3 and see how that goes. you should notice a big change on power turns too. i'm so close to having one of these i can taste it.[:@]
#120
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From: winter garden,
FL
ORIGINAL: j_blaze
probably thicker center juice, try 10/20/3 and see how that goes. you should notice a big change on power turns too. i'm so close to having one of these i can taste it.[:@]
probably thicker center juice, try 10/20/3 and see how that goes. you should notice a big change on power turns too. i'm so close to having one of these i can taste it.[:@]
#123
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From: TilburgNoord Brabant, NETHERLANDS
#124
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From: TilburgNoord Brabant, NETHERLANDS
ORIGINAL: rctruggy
@wrat,
Maybe this thread helps.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_64...tm.htm#6449894
I don't see why the tires would stop balooning by changing the diff oil? If the tires are spinning at a certain RPM they are balooning regardles of the oil in the diff involved I guess.
Cheers,
@wrat,
Maybe this thread helps.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_64...tm.htm#6449894
I don't see why the tires would stop balooning by changing the diff oil? If the tires are spinning at a certain RPM they are balooning regardles of the oil in the diff involved I guess.
Cheers,
#125
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
thanx for the link but the problem is that the front lifts up when i excellerate and the front tires dont grip..causing them to spin and baloon..i think i need to stiffn up the rear to help keep the front down.im thinking heavier wt shock oil and a bit of preload on the springs..the .30 has massive power and torque..ive just put a 16 tooth bell on ..i'll see what happens.. im not just on the throttle either , cheers



