I am really interested in knowing what your experience is with that SPE engine. I just purchased one of the 40cc engines from the same place. It looks good. But I still have yet to run it. Your input would be great.

raptureboy you might think about using the nyrod instead of the cable. I know that you won't have any metal contact but they say that the cable can act like a antenna of interferance. I know that all the gassers have always told me this just thought I would pass it on. It is a rule I have followed on all of my gassers.

Randy

Yikes, I've waded through the 70 odd pages of this thread and am still confused as to what retracts to use.

Could someone please tell me which retracts they used, specifically what model rather than just a brand? I'd also like to know how much modification was involved fitting them and whether you are happy with them.

Note I'm building mine to fly and although ultra scale detail is nice I'd rather save the dollars and have a reliable decent set of gear.

Thanks in advance.

I can see this plane is going to cost me far more than I ever anticipated but that's the hobby.....

The Raven, Using the Robart 615 is a waste of time. Century Jet makes a set that some people have had success with except the pop rivots on the scissors like to come loose. Sierra Presision makes the nicest set in my opinion and not just because I have them but they look very scale and are strong. They all have about the same amount of mods on the wing. Sierra Presision makes them specific for this plane. Just call and he can help. Here is the link to the CJ gear.

http://www.centuryjet.com/webstore/m...TOKEN=22823881

And here is the link to SP gear

http://www.sierragiant.com/prod30.html

By the way when Robart has there new gear available it looks like it will be a much better gear but they still say "Coming Soon".

Randy

Thanks very much for the links and info on the two sets of gear. As I'm in Australia the exchange rate is going to kill me but if that is what I need to get the job done then so be it.

I assume the links provided did not include the necessary plumbing, air tank etc. Hmm, another cost to factor in. I did stumble across some retracts locally made by ESM but from the pics I don't think they compare to CJ and SP.

Once again, thanks for the help.

Cheaper options gladly accepted

Johnny zero,I only have bench run it for one tank but it started real easy and I was taching around 7500 using a 2 blade 16x8 wood propeller.I plan on using a 3 blade 15x8 Graupner on my Hellcat.

Ravan I know what you mean about all the confusion.I'm using the 615's with a modification to the trunions.go to this thread to get the info.[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1438302/anchors_1438302/mpage_1key_/anchor/tm.htm#1438302[/link] I'm like you can't afford to spend more for the retracts than the plane cost.I like to get it in the air first work out the bugs and then go into all the details.

The Raven, THe CJ gear come complete with air kit. The SP gear does not but he has the stuff to go with it. The SP gear is more expensive. Last set I bought was $305 shipped. Now this included some very nice machined scissors which are extra along with door mounts. Here is a pic that HalH took of the SP gear. Just to let you know that the last set was $250 for the gear and about another $50 for scissors and the door mounts which make it a nice way to attach doors to the legs. YOu can see both in the pic. Now the scissors are for looks only not needed for function but give a nice scale look.

P.S. I too did the mods to the 615 gear which is what I used first on the first Hellcat I did. Plane came out at 12# when done. They worked ok for a while but soon they would skip the gear on the side very easy and this was on a paved runway I hate to think what it would of been on grass. I think that Robart says no more than 10# on the 615 gear which I would agree with. Also one hard landing and the link plates which support the legs from folding bend very easy. I know we all try to save money which is why I went with the 615's at first but it just wasn't worth it. I also have found that the plane is the cheapest part of any build including my big birds. I always have way more invested in everything else than the plane itself. Just my 2 cents and alot of years playing.

Randy

Thanks very much for the detailed comparison between the CJ and SP retracts.

The SP definitely look good but the cost tends to get significant once I factor in the exchange rate and requirement for the rest of the air system.

The CJ are more cost effective for me, primarily because it includes the air kit. Scissor rivets issues etc I can live with.

I have also come across a generic set of rotating retract set by ESM with 5mm wire legs. OK, not as sexy as CJ or SP but the price is right. My only concerns are that I have no idea what the weight rating is and whether they are decent quality (for the price). Has anyone here seen or used ESM retracts?

So far that gives me three options with CJ probably being the least risky and most affordable.

Hmmm, anyone got a good set 2nd hand retracts to sell?

Has anyone had problems with toe in-toe out play in the sierra precision gear when they are extended or are they pretty rock solid?. I noticed the cj's have quite a bit.

Mine has a bit of play now that I didn't notice when new but it doesn't seem to cause any problems on handling.

Randy

I don't know about problems yet as I've still a ways to go but I have noticed a bit of play in my Sierra Precision's.

bigbird

Amazing! This thread is still alive. Hey, bigbird how far are you with your Cat? Any chance to see an end, yet? I stopped counting the number of times I had to fix my Robarts 615 retracts. Too greedy to buy "real" retracts. Other than that I love my Cat.

thevirginian,

I'm really going to have to get on the stick to get this thing done this summer. I've been in Phoenix for the last 3 weeks and haven't done anything on it for a while. I'm going to order warbird colors sea blue when I get home. Then I'll have to get busy learning how to spray paint... Lot's of firsts with this bird.

bigbird

C'mon man, where is you drive? You got to get this thing in the air. Don't drag it out for too long, or you risk losing intrest. Finish it and once you have flown it for the first time you'll love it. Keep us posted and let us know about your maiden.
Good luck, bigbird
thevirginian

Bigbird it is a blast to fly flew it 3 times on Saturday. I am now getting used to this modified one not so hard now.

Randy

Fellas, need some advice. I've been flying my Hellcat like crazy. I've got a YS110 on 'er and recently tried an APC 15x10 prop, holy cow, that thing hauls. Anyway, although I've been putting plenty of hours on the plane, there are a few things I'd like to work out to make her fly even better.

What is the consensus on where the CG should be?
I've got CJ retracts on, so to check the CG I hold the plane inverted with the gear retracted (up in the wing). Is that the correct way to do it?

Couple curious things this plane does and I'm not sure if it's a balancing problem...
1. When I fly straight and level at half to 3/4 throttle and then go to full throttle, the plane goes into a climb. It also wants to climb as I'm pulling out of a bank turn. Basically it wants to climb when ever it speeds up.
2. If I go to inveted flight, the plane wants to climb.
3. Landing is challenging, I try to approach with power and kill the throttle just as the wheels touch but it wants to float and then I have a crappy, bouncy landing. I never use the flaps because it's too floaty already.

Any ideas from you seasoned Hellcat pilots?

Chris

Usually ( experts please chime in or tell me I'm blowing smoke... ) when a plane tends to climb under power when upright AND when inverted, this indicates that it still may be tail heavy.

From your description it seems to be doing this in almost every attitude. It will also cause the plane to seem much more "floaty" and could be making your landings difficult.

Just this to say.....flaps don't make an airframe "floaty". Flaps add "drag". You can have a much steeper angle of approach but you need to still be under power. All surfaces are still flying and you control your decent with power. Which is the full scale way to land any plane. We get spoiled with all the power and surface throws that we can use and we don't fly our panes in any way close to full scale.

Finally got things back together after I tore my century jets out of my wing. Reinforced the wing spar and outer wing joint, Reinforced retract mounts and fiberglassed the wing which I am very happy with thanks to Lukes advice with glassing. Thanks to Luke (a.k.a Bentmetal) for all the accessories from Zollner models and Darrell from Sierra Precision Retracts. Without them I couldn't have nearly made the model come out the way it did. Hopefully I 'll keep it out of the dirt this time. Still working on the upper strut covers , the final weathering like exhaust staining and paint chipping,and the chromate green in the wheel wells. Oh yeah and I forgot to put on the drop tank from Zollner too.

Very nice job and great modifications, can't believe it started as a CMP! Would like to see it with the drop tank. Good luck on the first flights, keep us posted.

Very nice "canfieldnosedive" looks great. I have a giant scale TF Corsair from the Essex also in the same paint scheme very cool.

Randy

CND... What type of engine do you have in your 'Cat? [:-]I think I am going back to 2 stroke engines for Warbirds. Mufflers are easier to find to fit in the cowl, and they are much more powerful for their size. (also run hotter, drink more fuel, use a smaller prop.... Pros and cons!)

CC

CC, I have a Moki 135 with a graupner 15x8 3 -blade. It has got some serious power and I'm very very happy with it.

CND.... how is it on takeoff with all of that torque? I plan on cutting down the wings (per Luke), so the gear (CJ)is closer together. My Corsair requires me to sneak up on the throttle and really hammer the right rudder.


CC