I'm not saying you did a bad job or anything, it's an ARF after all, built pretty close to stock there is only so much you can do I guess.

Col. Art Johnson built a 94" P-38 in 1978 that weighed only 12 lbs ready to fly. He did this with the help of bell-cranks, light 2 stoke engines, light wood and finishing techniques. I know today bell-cranks are frowned upon, but they can really be effective in both function and eliminating extra weight, especially in critical areas like the wingtips. When I build a scale model of any type, I try to take what these early masters in the hobby did and apply it to my building. Servos in the wingtips of models is a no no in my opinion, the smaller a model gets the greater the negative effect. Tiny things add up to big things over the progression of a build, that's part of the art of scale building, attention to these small details. The way I look at it is that scale detail can be "purchased" through the elimination of weight in other areas of the model. If I'm going to add something to a model it has to be justified by making another part lighter, and even then I try to build the extra scale detail as light as possible.

I'm not preaching to anyone, these are just some ideas of mine that I'd like to pass on, if you think they might help you then I think that's great.

Happy building!

Luke

You're preaching to the choir here. Using some ideas that you posted on your Royal Corsair thread and other tidbits from Dave Platt's build series, I'm going to be able to build my 1/8 Corsair wing with all servos in the wing center section and no external linkages other than those in scale locations.

Tom

Hey Luke,
I didn't take it the wrong way. No need for apologies. Before I started this model, I weighted her, piece by piece and tallied them up. Building her by leaving everything stock would have resulted in a very light airplane, I know. When I made the decision to glass the wings and stabs, I knew I would add probably a couple of pounds, including the paint job. To me it was still in a acceptable weight range. By using a gasser you automatically add more weight than using a two stroke. Would ahe fly better weighing two pounds less? Of course, she would. But to me she still flies very nicely. She is stable with no bad habits. Landings are totally uneventful for a warbird. If you compare the wing loading of my Hellcat with stock wings to yours with 64" wingspan, I would say that there is probably not much difference. I jugde an airplane not by its overall weight, but how it behaves inflight. So, I think that this Hellcat can weigh close to 14 lbs and still fly great.

How's the weather out there??? LOL (man this thread went quiet)
I have been "almost read to fly" like six times now. I keep uncovering little things to address and most surround replacing the pushrod setups. I'm on pushrod version 3.0 but think I have a good layout now. Also the detailing is an ongoing and long process, I have all of you to thank on those wickid Hellcats posted. I think I read somewhere this ARF takes 5 hours to build. (?)

Who would be so gullible to believe this ballonee It was my longest lasting "ARF" so far. Building time that is.

Is that some kind of Austrian Sausage?

A

Got that right, Andy

Maiden update-
We finally got the perfect weather on Friday in Chicago for flying. I can't say the detailing was finished because as you can see in the photos I'm missing the sliding canopy and wheel pants purchased from Luke. The hellcat actually made two flights this day. One was completely unintentional during the first full throttle push of the modified Zenoah. This thing has a ton of torque and I had a Wright brothers-like liftoff and landing. We gave it a go and the plane took off easily but was definitely out of trim. I decided not to retract the gear on the first flight and I had an in-flight issue where one wheel axel vibrated loose and I lost a tire. Its safe to say I will lock-tight those things next time. Anyway we took a vote and decided to land gear-down and attempt to slow it down as much as possible. I thought gear-up the drop tank might catch and it would start flipping etc. The landing turned out to be as bad as I thought however I did seem to me$$ up the retracts and I did break the drop tank back in two-pieces (sorry Luke)
It should all be easily fixed an back up next month.
I keep joking with my father that I though this was supposed to be a relaxing hobby. I just never is.
Hope everyone had a good weekend!
Jim-

BTW, I can't thank everyone enough for convincing me through posts to strengthen the wing spar area after having cut it to put in the Century retracts. I don't have a good picture but I built-in a non-scale access panel on the top-side of the wing so that I can easilly get at the top of the retracts. Its hard to see but its a defined square on that first pic. This is a great way to check the spar and mounts after a landing like this.
Jim-

Jim,
Sorry about the mishap, if you need any replacement parts, please just let me know in a PM. I'll send whatever you need for fee, no problem. I really like the way your Cat looks, can't wait to see it with the canopy and some better in flight shots!

I've been on vacation, just got back from San Antonio Texas. Visited the old stomping grounds, hope to move back to SA in about a year or so. I placed a few of my items in Jim Rice’s shop (Hellcat Cockpit, Canopy and gear doors along with a 1/8 scale Corsair cockpit) in Universal City, right outside the gate of Randolph AFB. Jim runs a really nice old time hobby shop, and those are getting really hard to find.[link=http://www.sanantoniorc.com/2ndchance/]2nd Chance Hobbies[/link] If you are in the area please stop by and tell Jim Hi for me.

Got ya Tom! (SMUGator) Let’s see a thread with that Corsair! Sounds great!

I know what you are saying thevirginian, I tend to hyper focus on issues, I don’t mean come off the way I do a lot of the time. It’s my perfectionism, I live a tormented life! I’ve been known to completely scrap a fuselage or other major component and start over if it even has the slightest thing that I perceive to be wrong. I’m much harder on myself and my own projects than I ever will be to others projects. For those that can get along with me, they know when to ignore what I say I guess. My wife thinks I’m an eccentric artist type, it annoys her sometimes.

I sent out a van load of extras for this plane, so I’d like to see and hear about some builds!

Luke

Thanks Luke, And no worries on the drop tank. It broke at the glue seam and should fix up nicely.
BTW, did anyone find a better solution over the stock mechanism to bolt down the wing? I fought the stock nuts which have the teeth to bite the wood (can't remember the name of those for the life of me). I even replaced them with a larger diameter pair with longer teeth from the hardware store and I'm still not happy with the setup.
There has to be a better/easier way-
Thanks
Jim-

They are called "blind nuts". I can't really think of a better way to mount a wing that is one piece. If this warbird had plug in wings that might be easier to figure out. When you have an inclosed fuse there has to be a way to mount the wing that you access outside of the fuse. Maybe an internal attachment point that you acces through a hatch. I can't really think of a better way. If you find one please let us know.

Hey,starting @ 24:00, I was about to start on opening up the cmp wing bottom: Sierra retract's----well....monthsgo by and Guys--I'm finally about to start this cmp Hellcat, finally. Will give my best to start the (Sierra's, 100 rotating beautiies!!) gear base reinforcement. Obviously, I need to start cutting open the bottom side fuselage balsa sheeting ,(from my assesment): Is there some input on how to go about the initial cutting open of the balsa skin, and removal of the existing (cheap, hot-glued) base , and ribs adjacent to the main gear bay area. These Sierra's- are- works- of - art--I need to do a Marine-precision job of installing these, was about to start removing the well-well "factory installed" ply base, and ribs. From earlier (lost, mutitudes of...) thread comments, I recall the comments to..." use the existing ribs as a 'template " to cutout new plywood ribs " for securing the base to the adjacent ribs, "....it's so cramped in there, reaching in from the open-center-section of the wing...who could remove a rib as one piece (???). I'm foreseeing alot of "trial and error cutting away and try" work, or (I'd imagine" a more planned template type setup,for a word-of-wisdon from anyone.??? Lost awaiting from you f6f "gurrus"> on this right now....a late night>will catch up on this tomorrow---- thx all, in advance... ed sarkisian "sark757"

Sarks,
I do not have the Sierra retracts (Century) however didn't have to cut much of the balsa away except for a larger diameter tire. The only thing I needed to do was cut out some of the spar for the piston to sit nicely. I went the opposite way in reinforcing and cut away a section on the top of the wing. It was easier to fiberglass everything from up top (for me). Others might have better recommendations however.
For my scenario I was able to test the strength after vibrating off a wheel and landing gear down. I bent the gear and the wing held together solid.
I'm assuming every install is going to be different with alternate methods. For me, my dremel tool is my best friend.
Jim-

Heh Jim at IL-RC...thx for the response pertaining to your Century Jet installation...Copy on the surgery from the TOP of the wing. What I see is the GREAT necessity due to some "rice and balsa" factory construction is to replace the ribs adjacent to the main gear "bay" and (as per prior thread recommendations>>smart way..) use ply ribs/ and beef up the floor of the bay. Accomodating for appropriate height of the retract mechanism req's trial to ratchet up the height of the base as needed. >>>>How does one work inside that wing??? ....I saw substantial need to cut away to gain access.... Any Sierra retract experience input. I've FINALLY got four vacation days to work on this---gonna hit it like a Roger Clemens fastball, if I can ..open ears and open mind-----I'm listening. YesI have the scizzors installed by Sierra---gorgious work.

I posted some pictures of what I did on post 1258.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_25...1/key_/tm.htm#

You'll have to scroll down some.

bigbird

Ed, I glassed mine so I didn't care how much sheeting I removed since I wasn't trying to save the covering. I removed about two inches from either side of the retract bay. Removed all of the retract ribs and and mountings. Cut new ribs from good 1/8" ply. Cut retract mounting blocks from maple, note if you round the blocks at the top inside edges you will find that they will fit into the Sierras better since it has a rounded edge where they fit into the bay. Then I mounted the blocks to the retracts so that I could get the spacing perfect and then set them into the wings and set the ply ribs in place got all the angles correct marked the ribs removed everything and glued the ribs in with 30 minute epoxy. I then glued in triangle stock to the ribs on the outer side away from the retracts every place I could to tie it all together especially to the spar. One more note When I was setting this all up I cut from the spar what I needed for the retract to sit in correctly. I then took 1/4" ply and doubled up the spar on both sides of it so that I added a 1/2" thickness to it. These doublers were long enough to tie them into the next rib. Try to get these to fit as perfect as possible it will make a stronger joint if you do. I then took the retracts that were still screwed to the maple blocks and set them in and marked it so it was straight. Removed the retracts and glued the blocks in with 30 minute epoxy. Rechecked it one more time with retracts and when all was good I mixed up some resin with out a lot of hardner and poured it into the retract areas one area at a time with the wing at a angle so that the resin would soak into any cracks and joints and lock the whole mess solid together. When dry I would do another area turning the wing so that the resin would flow and puddle where I wanted till the area had resin into every joint. You don't need big puddles just fill any gap. I especially did this to the 1/4" doublers I added to the spars. I did this because you have to cut away a lot from the spar and I like a strong wing and retract area. I didn't take any pics sorry. A Dremel works best for the cutting the spar I found. Then just glue the sheeting back into place. I was carefull when I removed it so I just was able to reuse it. I did this all from the bottom side of the wing never even cracked the top sheeting. The old stuff removed easily.

Randy

Virginian and "Big bird"--thx a million guys for the tips on the means to cut/ size up/ beefup retract gear well areas. Spoke to a Yorktown VF-1 Squadron pilot today, friedn of my Dad...(pilot is 88 yrs old).Been wanting to call him for a while. I'm not getting any closer to building this plane,...it's midnight+..... but at least keep up with the historical end., The VF-1 Hellcats have several Jap shipping "sinkings" under their belts.....Great for a fighter, ..doig the fill-in work for the TBF Avengers. The VF-1's are "the Tophatters".. Told me he landed onboard the Yorktown with zero gas, after a raid. Engine Quit( fuel exhaustion ) upon touchdown on the wire......

Blessed guys, these WW2Vets...----Thx for the hel, guy. Take care---

Ed Sark

heh Randy at Warks62, and Big Bird....give me your uspo mailing address, if you don't mind. Really appreciate the building tips ref to gear installation. I've got 72 hrs of vacation left....where did a week go??... (my garden rake 'll tell ya...)so, I am ++motivated and will press-on with the (dusty)open-wing on my work table... thanks all....uspo addresses...something forthcoming........ Thanks a million... ED Sark

the sierra retracts have me in the doghouse---for a month+---worth every one of em 30 days of pennance----e sark

Nice.......I want some of those gear.

Anybody out there still? I'm looking for any help installing a gas engine.I'm having a problem hooking up a control rod or cable to the throttle arm.With the engine upside down the throttle position is real low near the bottom of the nose.A straight run back would bring the push rod into the front wing dowel area. Any thoughts,or ref to prev post would be helpful.Great job everyone and Luke thanks for the fast service on the parts.

raptureboy, this may sound crazy but you could use two bellcranks if you had too. But how about using nyrod. It is flexable and what you should be using on a gas motor anyway. Anotherway would be to make a bellcrank out of a long double sided servo arm. Attach the arm to a motormount, engine a bracket what ever in the center with one side going to the carb and then the other to the throttle servo. Depending on how long the arm is will determine how far up the nyrod is put but very easily move it up 2". You can make one out many things even some good 1/8" ply that you coat with thin CA.

Randy

raptureboy,
Warks is right-on, I have a Zenoah mounted and had to install a bellcrank on the crankcase to change the direction of the vertical carb linkage. What kind of motor are you mounting?

This is what I love about this hobby,everybody is always willing to help out. Thanks Randy and Il-RC for the great ideas.I'm using one those SPE 26 engines that I picked up from Maxford aka Green models.I was playing around with it last night and I think I might have come up with a solution.I'm using a ball link on the throttle arm which I made out of a Dubro heavy duty servo arm, and then stranded cable through a nylon sleeve to the servo mounted on a set of rails about 10" back from the engine to another ball link.Both ball links are nylon so there should not be any metal to metal contact at the throttle connection. But I'm always open to ideas.Keep em come'n