Vilante

I think I need to start looking at getting some hardware in, as I think I'll need to do some mods to fit batteries in etc. MH Boatworks does essentially the same boat in 1/10th and they recommend the following:

*Speedmaster or Accu-tech 20 rudder
*Speedmaster or Accu-tech 3/16" flat bottom hydroplane Strut (Modern Hulls may use the "Extended" style Strut)
*Speedmaster or Accu-tech 3/16" flex cable and prop shaft
*Virginia Craftsman ( [email protected] ) or Accu-Tech RC Hardware home page 1/10th Scale or Sport 20 or 40 Turn Fin

They don't give any recommendations on motors. Does anyone have any thoughts on any of it? I don't need top of the line gear, mid range is fine for now.

Cheers,
Mike

Hydro Junkie

Since you're boat will be electric, you can get away with enamel. IF, however, you plan to use decals for the lettering, you will need to spray a clear over the top to protect the decals. I would recommend that you test your clear on a sample of the white to make sure there won't be any issues that could ruin your paint job. With my boats, most will get a coat of white primer, sand it smooth, add a second thinner coat, sand it slightly, add lettering or decals and spray a couple of coats or clear to finish it. The exception to that will be the new Elam hull I'm building. It will get a specific white paint over a tinted primer, neon orange as needed over that, followed by two or three coats of clear over the decals.
As for your hardware, I would install all of it PRIOR to installing the decks. Something else to look at is where the screws are used. Sheet metal and wood screws won't work as the wood isn't strong enough to handle the stress. I would recommend doing one of the following:
1) Install a plywood doubler inside the locations where the hardware will be mounted. For the sponson and rear fin/rudder brackets, you need to have at least 10mm in total thickness and have the doublers cover a larger area than where the brackets will be. Drill the locations for the mounting screws and then install either threaded inserts or blind nuts into the holes
2) Install an aluminum doubler at least 3mm thick inside the transoms where the brackets will be. Drill the holes for the screws and tap threads into the aluminum doublers.

Vilante

Thanks again Hydro.

Any ideas on what I should base my setup around? There are 3 classes under the local rules, 4S/6S/12S.

The sponson didn't go quiet as well as hoped, I needed to overlap it more. All learning. I'll have to do some filling.

Hydro Junkie

I would call that an "OOPS", or not too much of a big deal. Since you've already decided to fill those areas that didn't quite make it, there are two things you need to do:

1. fill those areas with either straight epoxy or epoxy mixed with silica fibers, West Systems 406 is what I use in areas like what you showed in your picture
2. sand the filled areas flush with the adjacent sides/bottom after it has several days to cure. BE SURE TO KEEP THE EDGES SHARP OR THE WATER WILL SUCK THE BOAT DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just remember, when you put a coat of primer on it no one will see or know it's not perfect

Vilante

Thank you mate

Hydro Junkie

What did I do? I just told you what I have done on a few occasions to fix a shifted skin panel. That is the very reason I always oversize my parts by no less than 3mm on all sides. You can see that on the bottom picture on post 47. The deck extends around the sponson by roughly 3mm or so to make sure it didn't end up short. What I did do, however, is let the deck shift so that the deck didn't reach the edge aft of the sponson where it and the side panel didn't match. If you look closely at the deck edge by the rear of the boat, you can see a darker stripe that is the visible spruce glue strip inside the hull. Since this wasn't an area that would be hit by water or stressed, I used epoxy and microballoons, West Systems 410, to give the boat a sharp edge

Vilante

Just thanking you for the feedback mate. It's a bit hard to get these days, I guess more and more people are buying rather than building now.

Is there any other interesting resources around you know of, particularly in regard to FE power train?

Hydro Junkie

Try this:
www.classicthunder.us/RuleBook/Rulebook2020.pdf

Vilante

I'm starting to think I'll need 6S. It's going to be heavy, and at 34" it seems to be on the cusp of 4S and 6S (as far as I can see from my research.

Vilante

Skinning the second sponson seems to have come out better. I think I've got my driveline sorted, I've got some help from a local boat shop owner which has been great. I won't get that for a couple of weeks, so I think I might move on to the cowel.

Does anyone know of a good tutorial on fibreglassing? I wouldn't mind having a go at making a plug and molding it out of fiberglass.

Hydro Junkie

The video doesn't show how to make a plug or a mold but it does show a way to make the parts

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Here is a build thread here on RCU. It is an airplane project but does show some good information about plug and mold fabrication. A bit long with a fair amount of fluff but a good read none the less.


Pattern Biplane

Vilante

Brilliant, thanks gentlemen!