No worries. We all miss something now and then. Especially me since I'm always in a hurry playing catch up when I'm on business trips

CCMAHAL, the holes in the aluminum landing gear was severely off in mine. I used a small rat tail file to open them up so they would align. I did replace the bolts holding the alum. brackets in as well with some aluminum bolts. My brackets were very loose. When everything aligned, I soaked all the wood with thing ca. I also had to cut the slots for the gear as well. Then I used some aluminum flat washers with the bolts to hold the gear. I used blue loctite. Then I used thick ca to keep the aluminum washers from sliding. I have about forty flights now with no issues with landing gear.

With my build, I came in at 18 lbs 2 oz. I used the lightest of everything except I did use a canister on my DA 50. I was hoping for 17 lbs. Plane flies light at this weight still, but it is lacking pull out for hoover. If I build another I will use servo in tail for rudder instead of pull-pull for CG.

What weight are most of the sukhoi's coming out at RTF? I am thinking about a replacement for my old toc yak that is just over 18# RTF, and am looking for something that will come out about a pound lighter built stock. I have a 3mm 53 and fromeco batts and regs, and 5955's all around on the yak that I will be moving over.

It seems like most of them are just over 17 pounds. I've seen reports here of some under 17, but I find that gravity seems to be highly variable. I know that they fly great with the TOC-53.

TF

Pat Roy, mstroh3961, rxfish

Thanks for the input fellas. I don't have the alignment problem that Pat discribes with his. The slots in the side are large enough front and back. The left gear mounts with the inboard hole and the forward hole, the back is not drilled to accept a 10-32 and is off half the hole. The right gear leg mounts with the inboard hole and neither the forward or back hole will align. The back hole is smaller than all the rest. I was hoping that the angle backets were easily removed but mine won't budge. I removed the screws in the right wing well and applied some light prying pressure with a screw driver. Only succeeded in marring the wood. Still thinkin' on it!

rctom

Do you have any ideas on the gear leg mounting issue? Barring any other ideas I think I will go with the rat tail file, will take some time to work it in the plane.

Did mine as well, in fact I cut 4 holes on the underside and used nut and bolt setup, 4 small bits of UCote and you will never see it.
Never liked the aluminum tapped stuff as disimilar metals dont get along.
Gear is now as strong as it will get with no added weight plus its easier to tighten fully.
If you use a cannister the center ones need to be button head types.
Really does land light.

This is a good way to go. On the prototypes I did it this way because I did not realize the gear was tapped. He's right about disimilar metals as well.

If you don't want to do that, just drill the holes in the brackets a little larger and use a washer.

This is one of those things that is very difficult to get right in a factory build.

TF

Got the CF tube, thanks Tom.

I asked this in another build thread on the 50cc Sukhette, but I will ask it here again. Do you need to fit any baffling to the engine. I am planning on fitting a DA50 and I would like to make sure. If you do have to fit baffling, please could somebody show pictures of how they did it.

I would also like to confirm that the required length for the standoffs for a DA50 is 3 1/2 inches.

Thanks
Pupmeister

On my test planes I have never used any baffling and have never had any problems. I think your standoff measurement is correct though it can vary, the distance from the firewall can be extended to get a more forward CG.

TF

3.5 inches would be the minimum standoff distance for a DA-50. I'm at 3 3/4" used 3/4 poplar and a 1 1/8" hole saw to make my standoff extensions. No baffling required.

Can some of you with the Sukhoi and the 3MM motor post pics of your throttle servo mounting? Particularly if you have one with the throttle controls pointing to the top of the plane. ( Carb and reed block inverted/rotated) I need to move mine and I am interested in seeing some of your ideas. Thanks

For the TOC-53 I usually mount the throttle servo in the slot in the fuse side above the wing on the right side. This places the pushrod just inside the motorbox side and the servo arm can point either up or down depending on how the carb/reedblock is oriented.

I mount the choke servo in the hole in the side of the motorbox, again giving flexibility in which way the servo arm points.

Using this arrangement I can change the reed block and lonkage in about 10 minutes.

I had to work this out in order to do testing on the engine.

TF

Tom that is where I have my choke servo. I was planning to put my throttle servo near where you have yours, but trying to think in advance, if it is there, it would hinder a future smoke setup.....

BTW, I know there is a big Sukhoi in my future, not the BIG one I wanted, but the 102"er will have to do.

Can we twist your arm hard enough to get the 40%er... please???

I don't use a choke servo, so I installed a couple of pieces of lite ply over the hole in the motor box and mounted my throttle servo there with the top of the servo inside the motor box. I don't have a pic like I thought I did...

Pat,

Your throttle set up is in post 31 of this thread.

tom

My standoffs are at 3-1/2" using some 1/2 alum standoffs from PSP Mfg with my DA and 3" stock standoffs. No baffling here necessary and outside temps are ~high 80's to mid 90's with no heat issues at all...

Jason

That's not my throttle servo installation. I think I borrowed that one from Tom. Mine is with the same principle but with the servo arm inside the fuselage.

Ah....sorry 'bout that...now that I re-read the note you posted you did say that it was Tom's photo (and it was also the choke vs. the throttle). I'm going back to bed!!

That's ok, I haven't been there yet either. For you it's daytime for me it's 13 hours later. Gotta love the night shift. You can't see but it's cooler...

I seem to recall that some can't see at night...but then again, they are the ones that show up nicely with the right kind of optics [>:]

Stay safe and thanks for doing what you are doing!

Roger that[8D]

Hi,

I am starting to put together my final order for accessories and hardware for my Sukhoi.

I have read through the thread and I want to confirm that the best length for SWB servo arms is 1.25 inch and that I should use 3.5 inch turnbuckle pushrods.

I intend to set it up for mainly IMAC, so I will be using the rear fitting hole for the elevator.

I know that you can get a upgrade hardware kit from Tom, but I am not in the US so I will not be ordering directly from him.

Thanks
Pupmeister