~~Sig Kadet Brotherhood~~.
#1828
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Greenville,
IL
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
Just ran across this thread and if membership is still open I would like to join. I have been flying Senior Kadets and Lt40's for years and of all the planes they are my favorites.
#1829
#1830
My Feedback: (6)
In case you missed it: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...ior-sport.html
Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 10-22-2014 at 10:35 AM.
#1831
Tony's right - the whole Kadet line is pretty much the all-time favorite for most fliers. It's such a perfect basic design, you can do almost anything to it and it's still going to fly supremely well. They don't tax your abilities and yet they can make any flier look like a pro. Great airplane!!
Soooooooo, here's our SIG Kadet Brotherhood, as I've got it today:[TABLE="width: 508"]
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[TD]Live Wire[/TD]
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[TD]ercobud[/TD]
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[TD]5skyhawk172[/TD]
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[TD]128[/TD]
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[TD]ThunderChicken[/TD]
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[TD]archie05[/TD]
[TD]69[/TD]
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[TD]129[/TD]
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[TD]deanz406[/TD]
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[TD]tomgreen[/TD]
[TD]70[/TD]
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[TD]130[/TD]
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[TD]n2ryd[/TD]
[TD]71[/TD]
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[TD]Cloud Cruiser[/TD]
[TD]131[/TD]
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[TD]UPF-7[/TD]
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[TD]12[/TD]
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[TD]race61[/TD]
[TD]72[/TD]
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[TD]SIGPlanes[/TD]
[TD]132[/TD]
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[TD]neons[/TD]
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[TD]Slavko[/TD]
[TD]73[/TD]
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[TD]rexperk[/TD]
[TD]133[/TD]
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[TD]Flyboy14901[/TD]
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[TD]14[/TD]
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[TD]lkruse[/TD]
[TD]74[/TD]
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[TD]134[/TD]
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[TD]proszak59[/TD]
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#1832
See "Thread Tools" at the top of the page.
In case you missed it: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...ior-sport.html
In case you missed it: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...ior-sport.html
#1834
That stuff is set up when you register. Most subscribe to threads where they post.
I started the wing joining process. Pic are posted in my thread. Very few kit included parts were used.
I started the wing joining process. Pic are posted in my thread. Very few kit included parts were used.
#1835
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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I did...thanks and it works really well absorbing the stall landings I do a lot of with that plane. The set in the picture was all aluminum and I had a hard time holding some of the parts together. (bonding Aluminum is tough) It eventually broke so I fabricated a new one from drill rod that is easier to hold together with solder. I don't have a lot of closeups but I'm happy to take a few to give you a better idea of how I put it all together.
Big Tee, I'd love to see the underside of that gear. Fits your LT40 perfectly, looks great and I can tell that it does what you intended it to do! I love working with aluminum, but it is certainly not a bond-friendly material for sure.
Regards,
SS
#1836
I am away from the hanger until next week so I can't take any pictures till then. Possibly this video clip will show you more of the structure especially if you can slow or freeze some of the shots. There is one section right at the beginning about 30 seconds where the plane drives up to the camera sitting on the ground that shows pretty good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lfz_Z69Sh0&list=UUVD1VLdswESLSxkG8LUmMfA If you would still like pictures I will post some as soon as I can
#1838
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
Big Tee, wow - great video and really impressive landing gear. The best I've seen. I guess the secret is in that opposing spring system - that, and the balloon tires - just takes the hard right out of hard landings! Handles that rough terrain really well also - you got yourself a genuine bush plane for sure! I can tell it's a blast to fly. Thanks for sharing
#1839
Big Tee, wow - great video and really impressive landing gear. The best I've seen. I guess the secret is in that opposing spring system - that, and the balloon tires - just takes the hard right out of hard landings! Handles that rough terrain really well also - you got yourself a genuine bush plane for sure! I can tell it's a blast to fly. Thanks for sharing
http://cyberzilla.net/evflyers/e107_...opic.php?228.0
ps there are a lot more videos just click on the link in my signature.
Last edited by BigTeeEldorado; 10-24-2014 at 05:06 PM.
#1840
Banned
Following TomCrump building thread
Hello,
I find Tom's thread most interesting.
As I said I am not planning to post into it.
There are many details that are not clear in my mind.
They may become clearer as time goes by.
It appears to me at this moment that the airfoil will become thicker with the installation of capstrip on the existing size of the airfoil; The ribs rear ends are the same height as the trailing edge thickness as they are inserted in the small grooves of the trailing edge pieces. I wonder how the added thickness of capstrips will be handled at the airfoils rear ends.
From the pictures I cannot tell if the wings joiners are one piece or individual pieces between the ribs. They would have to be one piece and the ribs be cut.
In my build I plan to have the joiner(s) slide into boxes so the wings can be separated at their center.
I may have two joiners; one at each spar.
I am planning to keep the same airfoil as came out of the die cuts.
The boxes to insert the joiner(s) will be adjacent to each spar and become part of the spar roots.
Presently I am working on the the struts' snap-in design so it is incorporated in the wings build.
Later I will work on the design of the wing's attachment to the fuselage.
The drawings dihedral of one wing horizontal and the other having 6 inches above the flat workbench at the tip rib gives angles of ? ? ? ( to be edited here after calculations ). I plan to use about two ( 2 ) degrees of dihedral.
Editing _ _ _ that angle is 10.4757 degrees which becomes 5.23785 degrees each side.
Roundign things off the top angle is 169.52 and the bottom angle is 190.48 degrees.
Zor
I find Tom's thread most interesting.
As I said I am not planning to post into it.
There are many details that are not clear in my mind.
They may become clearer as time goes by.
It appears to me at this moment that the airfoil will become thicker with the installation of capstrip on the existing size of the airfoil; The ribs rear ends are the same height as the trailing edge thickness as they are inserted in the small grooves of the trailing edge pieces. I wonder how the added thickness of capstrips will be handled at the airfoils rear ends.
From the pictures I cannot tell if the wings joiners are one piece or individual pieces between the ribs. They would have to be one piece and the ribs be cut.
In my build I plan to have the joiner(s) slide into boxes so the wings can be separated at their center.
I may have two joiners; one at each spar.
I am planning to keep the same airfoil as came out of the die cuts.
The boxes to insert the joiner(s) will be adjacent to each spar and become part of the spar roots.
Presently I am working on the the struts' snap-in design so it is incorporated in the wings build.
Later I will work on the design of the wing's attachment to the fuselage.
The drawings dihedral of one wing horizontal and the other having 6 inches above the flat workbench at the tip rib gives angles of ? ? ? ( to be edited here after calculations ). I plan to use about two ( 2 ) degrees of dihedral.
Editing _ _ _ that angle is 10.4757 degrees which becomes 5.23785 degrees each side.
Roundign things off the top angle is 169.52 and the bottom angle is 190.48 degrees.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-24-2014 at 09:50 PM. Reason: corrected wokbench to workbench
#1841
Years ago I bent the solid rod joiner on my Navistar to flatten the dihedral; but it is hard to bend tubing.
Good luck.
#1842
Banned
Dihedral fixed by the joiner(s)
Re the wing joiners: Although the rectangular aluminum bars that join the wing halves of my 100 inch H9 J3 provide great utility, a simpler approach is that used on the Alpha 60. The Alpha has an aluminum tube inserted into cardboard tubes in each wing half. The joiners pass through holes in the ribs that are lower in height on each rib going outboard to create the dihedral. However, this does not allow changing the dihedral once it is built in. The H9 approach could allow dihedral change by making the rectangular bars with the angles built in; the boxes in the wings would be parallel with the spars.
Years ago I bent the solid rod joiner on my Navistar to flatten the dihedral; but it is hard to bend tubing.
Good luck.
As you indicate my boxes into which the joiner(s) are inserted will be parallel to the spars.
They are likely to be 0.25" ( 1/4" ) in thickness made of laminated layers as follows _ _ _
1/16" hard balsa ... grain lengthwise
0.030" dural alloy thickness ...
1/16" hard balsa ... grain lengthwise
0.030" dural alloy thickness ...
1/16" hard balsa ... grain lengthwise
The dural and balsa to have many drilled holes perhaps filled with 0.072" dia. piano wires.
The length of the joiners will go at least to the third rib and perhaps to the fourth from the wings root ( span center ). These boxes will strengthen the wings' roots.
That adds up to 0.2475 inch joiners thickness plus some thickness of the 30 min epoxy.
The joiners to be built first and then the boxes to fit without play to the joiner(s).
I could change the dihedral by simply building new joiners at a different angle.
I think I will use two degrees each side to start with.
I will definitely have ailerons. I will decide later about flaps ( for the fun of it ) L O L.
I hope to post the struts snapping arrangement when done.
Regards from Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-25-2014 at 08:36 PM. Reason: Corrected typo 0.72" to 0.072"
#1843
Banned
Struts snap-in design
Hi folks,
The attached pictures show the design of the snap-in arrangement.
No screws needed. Snaps-in in less than 5 seconds.
Same for removal.
A similar arrangement is used at the bottom of the fuselage and a wire across the fuselage takes the tension of any strut tension or compression forces on the struts.
Zor
P.S.: Added by editing.
The leading ege and trailing edge do not appear parallel in the picture.
That is a perspective effect due to the camera being centered more on the ribs than the left side of the picture.
End
The attached pictures show the design of the snap-in arrangement.
No screws needed. Snaps-in in less than 5 seconds.
Same for removal.
A similar arrangement is used at the bottom of the fuselage and a wire across the fuselage takes the tension of any strut tension or compression forces on the struts.
Zor
P.S.: Added by editing.
The leading ege and trailing edge do not appear parallel in the picture.
That is a perspective effect due to the camera being centered more on the ribs than the left side of the picture.
End
Last edited by Zor; 10-26-2014 at 01:11 PM. Reason: Added the P.S.:
#1845
Banned
More preparation before building
Hi everyone,
I posted earlier that I weighted some of the sticks in the Kadet Sr. kit.
I see that some substitution to balsa using spruce is being made.
It made me wonder if I should also do that for some longerons or stringers.
I searched for the weight of wood.
This link is quite useful _ _ _ \
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/gen...ight-sheet.htm
if anyone is interested.
We see in those tables that typical spruce is twice as heavy as the heaviest balsa.
I read before that sheeting the wings top from the leading edge to the main spar using 3/32" thick semi-hard balsa was adding too much weight . . . like I verified that would be 2.4 ounces of weight.
Zor
I posted earlier that I weighted some of the sticks in the Kadet Sr. kit.
I see that some substitution to balsa using spruce is being made.
It made me wonder if I should also do that for some longerons or stringers.
I searched for the weight of wood.
This link is quite useful _ _ _ \
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/gen...ight-sheet.htm
if anyone is interested.
We see in those tables that typical spruce is twice as heavy as the heaviest balsa.
I read before that sheeting the wings top from the leading edge to the main spar using 3/32" thick semi-hard balsa was adding too much weight . . . like I verified that would be 2.4 ounces of weight.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-26-2014 at 06:34 PM.
#1846
If you want a rigid wing, Spruce spars make it so. The LT-40 has Spruce and I think so did my 4*120. One thing I recommend if you are going with a bar as the joiner over a tube, make sure your wing box is well glued, and make double sure the webbing goes to the edge of each spar, it should go to the top and bottom of the wing. In fact I would use 1/16th or better ply for the webbing and maybe even pin it to the spars. I lost my 4*120 ARF due to the webbing not being 100% attached to the spars. They only came to the inside of the spars and after a few flights separated from the spar and eventually cracked the ribs enough that the wing failed.
One other thing, the front pin used to secure the wing to the fuse, I would not use a center pin where the inside rib is part of it, I would use a dowel secured between two ribs with hard balsa. Again, the 4* was like this and eventually it too had cracked after a couple flights. My T-Clips is setup with the dowels between ribs and it is one tight flying wing.
One other thing, the front pin used to secure the wing to the fuse, I would not use a center pin where the inside rib is part of it, I would use a dowel secured between two ribs with hard balsa. Again, the 4* was like this and eventually it too had cracked after a couple flights. My T-Clips is setup with the dowels between ribs and it is one tight flying wing.
#1847
Banned
Some of my planning
If you want a rigid wing, Spruce spars make it so. The LT-40 has Spruce and I think so did my 4*120. One thing I recommend if you are going with a bar as the joiner over a tube, make sure your wing box is well glued, and make double sure the webbing goes to the edge of each spar, it should go to the top and bottom of the wing. In fact I would use 1/16th or better ply for the webbing and maybe even pin it to the spars. I lost my 4*120 ARF due to the webbing not being 100% attached to the spars. They only came to the inside of the spars and after a few flights separated from the spar and eventually cracked the ribs enough that the wing failed.
One other thing, the front pin used to secure the wing to the fuse, I would not use a center pin where the inside rib is part of it, I would use a dowel secured between two ribs with hard balsa. Again, the 4* was like this and eventually it too had cracked after a couple flights. My T-Clips is setup with the dowels between ribs and it is one tight flying wing.
Nice to read you acdii.
I already posted how I am planning to build the wing joining laminated bars.
One quarter ( 1/4" ) inch thick plus the thickness of the epoxy and their height ( width ) will be 1 1/4" for the main spar and 7/8" for the rear spar. The boxes will be made of 1/4" x the thickness of the bars at their tops and bottoms and the vertical sides will be made of 1/8" - 3 ply birch plywood going full thickness of the airfoil which is 1 3/4" at the main spar and 1 1/4" at the rear spar.
I visualize that as being quite strong. Epoxy ( 30 min ) will be used for the binding.
For anyone who has the drawings, the W1 ribs will be cut to have the boxes in one continuous length and the D1 doublers will be replaced by the front vertical part of the boxes. A similar build will be at the front of the rear spar.
I think that the boxes can terminate butting against the W2 ribs closest to the fuselage. That would give the joining bars a length of 12 inches. If we also consider the installation of wing struts, we have pretty strong wings plus the covering being woven fabric ( Ceconite ) glued to all contact surfaces with nitrate dope.
The webbing does go to the top amd bottom of the ribs ( to the fabric covering ).
I have not yet worked out the details of the wings fastening to the fuselage but it is likely to be similar to what I did on my Spectra with equivalent of dowels at the rear and screws at the front. Some fuselage reinforcement is needed there. More figurations will find the solutions.
Any suggestion(s) to improve on the above would be highly appreciated.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-27-2014 at 11:27 AM.
#1848
Banned
Pursuing snap-in struts
Hello,
What do I do with the wires in post 1844 ?
The attached pictures are the explanation.
Laminated rib is not cemented yet when the pics were taken so we see a little gap that will be gone when glued. A small length of spar bottom to be glued in about 1 ( one ) inch each side of that rib to give a half inch from the wire to the bottom surface of the wing. .
Any comments positive or negative are welcome.
Zor
What do I do with the wires in post 1844 ?
The attached pictures are the explanation.
Laminated rib is not cemented yet when the pics were taken so we see a little gap that will be gone when glued. A small length of spar bottom to be glued in about 1 ( one ) inch each side of that rib to give a half inch from the wire to the bottom surface of the wing. .
Any comments positive or negative are welcome.
Zor
#1849
Banned
A new thought
Ya _ _ _ always thinking of a better way.
I now see no need to remove the wing struts from the fuselage bottom.
A permanent screwed attachment with double small nuts to lock such that there is no slop but can be rotated. That would also allow an attachment that can be adjusted for length of the struts.
Just snap-out the struts under the wings and rotate them toward the tail on each side of the fuselage.
VOILA _ _ _ Like the Frenchman often say _ _ _
Zor
I now see no need to remove the wing struts from the fuselage bottom.
A permanent screwed attachment with double small nuts to lock such that there is no slop but can be rotated. That would also allow an attachment that can be adjusted for length of the struts.
Just snap-out the struts under the wings and rotate them toward the tail on each side of the fuselage.
VOILA _ _ _ Like the Frenchman often say _ _ _
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-27-2014 at 09:17 PM. Reason: correcting typos.
#1850
Banned
It is worth shopping around
Greetings,
A while ago I bought a small sheet of dural alloy.
Size was 12" x 10" and cost $9.95 plus 13% tax.
This aftrnoon I bought a piece 24" x 24" of the same thickness; 0.032" thick.
My cost was $6.00 and no tax added. A few scratches on the surfaces is no problem as it is not used where it is seen. None of the scatches are deep; only the mirror finish is affected.
Ii also bought my wing struts. Dimensions are 3/8" x 3/16" with a wall thickness of 0.015". It appears very strong and very light.
I think I will try a 3 bladed prop on that OS55AX. I already have a 13 x 8 and a 14 x 7.
My next move is likely to build the wing joiners to be available to build the boxes around them.
Zor
A while ago I bought a small sheet of dural alloy.
Size was 12" x 10" and cost $9.95 plus 13% tax.
This aftrnoon I bought a piece 24" x 24" of the same thickness; 0.032" thick.
My cost was $6.00 and no tax added. A few scratches on the surfaces is no problem as it is not used where it is seen. None of the scatches are deep; only the mirror finish is affected.
Ii also bought my wing struts. Dimensions are 3/8" x 3/16" with a wall thickness of 0.015". It appears very strong and very light.
I think I will try a 3 bladed prop on that OS55AX. I already have a 13 x 8 and a 14 x 7.
My next move is likely to build the wing joiners to be available to build the boxes around them.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-28-2014 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Formatting the posting