Now thats a sweet combo. !00 on the 46. Too bad the .60 dosen't do as well as the little guy. Looks like fun. All you need now is the giant. Joe

GJ, nice pics ! Did you mount your cline reg on the firewall with double sided tape ?

ORIGINAL: rajul

GJ, nice pics ! Did you mount your cline reg on the firewall with double sided tape

Rajul, i used velcro and epoxied the back strip to the firewall to make it fuelproof, worked great

GJ - nice pics! - so you're running the Saito 100 on the 40 size? - wow!...I'm running the Saito 100 on the 60 size...

"GJ - so you're running the Saito 100 on the 40 size? - wow! - I'm running the 100 on the 60 size..."

you should have adequate vertical! - hehehe!...

Gary ,the weight of the saito 100 works perfect with the 46size and balances great, came out at 6lb 2oz, which is a good weight, just have to watch the speed, no prob, unlimited up i like[X(]

GJ - sounds like an awesome setup! qRCPlains - nice flying!

GaryB - thank you for the kind words - the plane seems to be very aerobatic and yet quite forgiving



http://www.rcfunflyers.com/ucando%205-24-05.wmv

I am going to rebuild a very stock UCan Do 60 . I will be powering the plane with a 91 Surpass ii non pumped with a 15X4apc.
What are the most benificial mods I need to do ? If I move the Fuel tank do I center the tank on the CG?

Here is a that Tulsa 3d made for me just a while back. It was one of the first times I had tried to 3d with this plane since a wreck last year. I could have had some great video last night of inverted harriers, rolling circles, ke loop, rolling harriers, and some other stuff. Didn't bring the camera though. I also did a really nice full speed low inverted pass that I swear I heard a scrape with the rudder.. almost brought a quick ending to my ucd... again!! ha. I think I have about got this plane figured out. Still kind of a newbie to 3d.

http://www.tulsa3d.com/modules.php?n...=getit&lid=855

btw.. seanychen.. how are you getting this to do near ascending inverted flat spins. My flat spins have sucked since my rebuild. Are you using 3d rates? What are kind of your stick positions?

I hope to get a better video out next week. Trying to bring down my hovers which I can do much better than in this video.. knees were knocking too much!! ha.

If anyone has any more posts of videos with this plane I would love to see them. I am trying to build my skills at 3d. The best I have seen are the mexico city electric, seanychen, and 3dbatix.. are there any other good ones?

I am assembling a UCD 60.
I know about the lack of right thrust but has anyone encountered a lack of downthrust or even up thrust built in?
Thanks!
JLK

i didnt have any up-down thrust issues with mine JLK

Gary,
Just looking at mine with a 15x6 APC on it the angle of the prop looked funny.
I used the blue stripe down the fuselage and the dark blue in the upper fuselage as the "waterline" to level the fuze.
I then put the backplate of the TruTurn spinner on with spacing washers and the prop nut.
I then put a level on the back plate and it indicated that in fact there was upthrust.
I am curious if it's just me, my particular plane or I need to add washers to the top two firewall engine mounting holes as well as the two left side ones.
JLK

What engine are you using? After many test flights, cumn thru determined 3 more degrees of right thrust were needed with a Saito 100 and 4 degrees with a YS 110. If I recall 15X4W and 16X4W APC props respectively. This was for extreme 3D flying, He never mentiond the need for up or down thrust. Ernst thrust plates were used to achive the results. I have 3 degree Ernst plate in mine (Saito 100), you will be able to tell more when you fly the airplane. I had one once that needed some additional downthrust and used a 1/16" piece of aluminum bar stock placed behind the top motor mount bolt holes. Worked like a charm, good luck with yours...

Olstoney,
I am going to use a Saito 100 and have a Hayes 3 degree plate.
Can I ask how your cowling ended up lining up with the spinner back plate?
I have shifted my mount over after adding 2 washers top right, top left and bottom left of the planes engine mount to the firewall. The cowl matches the backplate terrible.
I am afraid 3 degree right and a couple more washers added to the top two mounting bolts and it will really look like heck!
But, if that's what it takes to fly....
Anyone have any pix?
Thanks!
JLK

I had to elongate the mounting holes in the GP mount to shift the engine over. There was no problem with the cowl. I'm not familiar with the Hayes system, so I can't help you there.

am i reading this right jlk? you have a thrust plate with 3deg and you also have 2 washers in three of the four holes also?

Gjeffers,
No, I only have the washers at 10, 1 and 4:00 o'clock
But...I believe these planes have positive thrust that nobody is talking about that is causing the pitch to canopy in knife edge.
It's hard to believe such a well built arf requires 3 degrees add'l right thrust AND downthrust!
There must be something I am missing.
I don't know what to do!
JLK

ok jlk, if its pitching to canopy on knife then i think its safe to say you have your tank in stock position, because if you move the tank to cg you lighten up the nose and to compensate you have to add a few clicks of down trim on the elevator and if you do this it will dive to the wheels hard, so if you need to correct a pitch to the canopy you can either add downthrust or lighten up the nose (move cg back) these things will make you change you elevator neutral setting for level flight and therefor change you pitch-dive tendencies[&:] hope this is understandable, good luck!!

Gary,
As always you are giving good advice.
I haven't flown my UCD yet...in fact I haven't flown anything in 20+ years!
[X(]
I am just trying to figure out if my plane is built differently than everyone elses or if the up/down thrust isn't critical if nobody else is having to correct it.
I think I will leave the 2 washers in place that I have for right and down thrust and see what happens in a couple weeks.
Thanks again!
JLK

I hope that I did not confuse you on the down thrust issue, that was on another plane. The UCD only required the addition of the 3 degree Ernst plates. There are many posts in this forum and it is difficult and time consuming to read the entire thread. I do not know how many of the posts that you have read. Several other members have gone into detail about coupling issues and the plane wanting to pull towards the canopy or the gear during certain manuevers. Solutions and suggestions are also offered by those members if you choose to take a look at them. There are also some very good pointers on some mods that were done to the aircraft by cumn thru, Lord Lucan and others. I used some of the suggestions offered with my build and they seem worthwhile. FWIW, this is a good thread and offered me a wealth of knowledge. I would hope that it should also help as well.

Out of four builds, the first plane off the shelves were the best in flight. They had some construction issues that were improved on in the latter, such as the wing hold down area in the fuse compartment, etc. The differences I found from build to build over three years was mainly wing incidence. The third and fourth showed positive incidence which was easily corrected.

According to GP, the firewall is supposed to be completely neutral, as the engineers tried to compensate for thrust by offsetting the vertical stab, which could have been effective with smaller engines, but proved to fail with more power.

Although allegedly neutral, I feel that there is some down thrust in the firewall, weather mistakenly built or purposefully installed, as to the way it leans on its back in a hover.

Presently I am convinced that the coupling, or dive to the wheels in KE, is due to the high placement of the horizontal stab, as it is not so evident in the 46 size with a lower placement. The rudder seems to wash out any airflow over the hor. stab and is causing it to stall.

Aileron coupling in KE was stopped on mine with the removal of the upper part of the rudder, and tapering the trailing edge.

Look where the two dowels go through the landing gear block and add a third dowel in between the two existing ones. If you put a finger down the compartment to the top of the landing gear block you will feel where you can slide in some tri-stock in each vertical corner. Mine will snap the tee nuts before the block is compromised. Light and strong and puts the support where needed. Good luck with the build. Joe

Same here, hog out the mount holes and shift it over to the side of the fuse. You can see here where my mount is actually past the side of the fuse. Joe

cumn,
Thanks for the picture!
What kind of side thrust were you adding to need to shift the mount over that far?
JLK

Joe, where did you get those white fuel line clips from ? Looks pretty good