A helping hand please!

I bought a UcanDo 46 with a 0.61 OS fx engine on it. Instructions warn you about going higher than a 0.51 but the seller says it flies great with a .61...anyone would like to add a comment?

Next topic: In the aerofly sim the engine spec doesn`t use bhp, instead it uses KW. If my 0.61 engine specs says: Horsepower: 1.90 BHP at 16,000 RPM...what should I use in engine power?

thank u very much for your assistance!!!

HY GUYS,,

PLEASE TELL WHERE I CAN FOUND SOME VIDEOS OF UCANDO???????

THANKS.

here is one from hacker, this is with a electric motor. really surprised me!
http://www.rccraze.com/hackervideos.html

might find more later

seanychen has one of the best videos of the UCD60. It is with him doing his thing along with someone with a Stinger 60. Maybe if someone asks him nice he will give us the link for it. Or maybe a search on this "3D" thread will find it. I'm not very good at posting links or searches. Please......seanychen?
Thanks,
Barry

Hacker is a viable option if you want to go electric. I investigated converting mine and it would run about $600.00 With the hefty price tag there are a lot of +s. Plenty of power, no dead sticks and run times equall to a tank full of nitro per LiPo pack. The batteries were the big ticket item. They do cancel out fuel purchases and other nitro support gear, but you won't realize the saveings overnight. With all the nitro gear already purchased I couldn't justify spending more at this time. But if I ever wear the 110 out, it still would be an option. Joe

THANKS, ITS A GREAT VIDEO ,, THATS LANDING I DO A LOT OF TIMES

THANKS

Here's the link:

www.pedrofrigola.com/RC.html

I wouldn't say it's that nice. I can hover the UCD better (reads LOWER) now. Also, I have put a set of floats on, and it actually flat spins better w/ the floats on

I plan to fly this w/ floats during the annual Michigan float fly-in. Hopefully I will get a video for this and post it then.

Some ucd vids on http://www.3dbatix.com/ under video section. Gave the home page instead of direct link.. thougt you might enjoy the view.

seanychen,
Thank you for the post. I still like your video. That's a great rolling circle on the UCD. You make the plane look good. A lot better than I can. Also enjoyed the Ultimate video.
Thanks again,
Barry

I put an OS 91 4-stroke in my U-Can Do 46 size and it is 10 times more fun to fly.
Don't worry about the limits GP puts on the specs as long as you don't fly it at full throttle other than vertical you should be fine and make sure it balances where it should.

I'm running a Saito .72 and a 14X4W on my UCD 46. Pretty much what I'm looking for, although. pulling out from a hoover isn't the best.

I'm building another airframe now as a spare and I'm thinking about an OS 91.

perkinsm, The best engine for the UCD46 is the Saito 82. It is a great combination with the APC 14x3W prop.
Thanks,
Barry

to sean
it was nice to see you with the UCD
very good flying
udi maman
israel

UCD60 w/ Saito 100.... I have just ordered this combo from Tower and I have several questions. I'm hoping for some solid reply's. Btw, thanks to all of you for your postings. I'm sure I will save myself alot of time/money/ headaches due to what I have learned from you!
About my setup: I am at 4700', UCD60 is stock w/ the exception of 4-40 hardware, trying my first comp. radio (Futaba 6EXA 6Ch), comes with s3004 servos at 57oz. torque w/ the 6v 1650 mah NiMH batts. Hope that enough torque for all but rudder which is an s3010 at 90oz. torque w/ the 6v, APC 16x4 and 15x6 props, and an Iron Bay fuel reg. w/ heli fuel. Here's the questions:

1) I have a great deal of concern about the bearing rust problem in the 100. Any new info there??? Is there an aftermarket bearing that works well in that engine? I bought the engine on Ebay from a trustworthy Ebayer (high feedback rating). I got it brand new in the box for $279.99 w/ full warrenty.....AND.....it included free shipping, a free Hobbico Voltwatch, and a free 2 1/4" polished aluminum sprinner. Cant beat that!!!!!

2) I have read all the threads on the UCD's inability to harrier very well. (except inverted, then it sounds to be pretty solid) From what I can tell from reading the postings (i.e. cutting the wingtips, moving cg, bigger props etc...) this sounds to be a balance problem and less of an aerodynamics issue. Although swinging a biggger prop increases airflow over control surfaces giving more control authority which may be masking the problem of a balance issue. Now, everyone seems to be concerned about the fore and aft CG, but what about the, what they call the waterline CG. That is the top to bottem balance, or, in other words, is it top heavy or bottem heavy? If you think about it, if it is top heavy and you try and upright harrier it may be unstable. But inverted the heavy part is on the bottem and it would be more stable. Anyone have any thoughts on this??????? And, is there fudging room inside the fuse to move stuff down towards the belly an inch or so???

3)I am new to comp. radios and 3d. What is knife edge coupling? And what is a knife edge wall?

4) Also, can anyone give me a down and dirty summary for setting up my new comp. radio. (everyone tells me it's easy and I will love the thing, but I'm just nervous) I know there is alot to it. And I know you dont feel like writting a novel here, and I will read the manual, but if you could just pretend like your talking to a 3 year old and give me the basics, I would appreciate it!!

HEY! Thanks guys- Sean

Hello there, Sean,

1) Before I lost my Saito 100 falling off in the air, I never had any bearing problem. It shouldn't have a bearing issue, but it's always safe to use after run and point the nose down when storing, except for YS engines.

2) In a different thread called "Wing Tips", I mentioned the CG location in Z axis (top and bottom) and how it might cause a low wing to be unstable at harrier. It did not receive a positive response there. I am glad someone else, another Sean, thought of the same thing.

Those guys there think that inverted harrier is stable with a low wing because of the vertical fin being in clean air. I have an MSME, focusing on Dynamics, and I work in Aerodynamics. Although I understand what they are trying to convey, that theory just does not convince me.
*In harrier attitude and speed, the air flowing over the stab and fin are mostly from prop wash, which is not blanketed by the wing.
**The amount of rudder that's blanketed by elevators should be the same for upright harrier and inverted harrier, unless it's a Stik plane.
***Harrier wing rock is a roll motion, while rudder controls yaw. While yaw input may counter the roll-off, the lack of yaw stability should not be the cause of the rolling motion.
Anyway, I still hold to the point that harrier *wing rock* is caused by *wing*, and the tail is only there to help and not the culprit.

I did try inverted harrier w/ my UCD 60. It is much more stable than upright harrier. In inverted harrier, it won't roll off as much, but you still need to control the yaw carefully, as over-yawing will send you into inverted flat spin.

3) Knife edge coupling is the undesired rolling and/or pitch response when given yaw (rudder) input. This plane will hold a knife edge with little or no rudder input w/ adequate airspeed if the CG is aft of 5.25". Knife edge wall is while the plane is flying knife edge (hopefully slowly), you give a sudden large rudder input, and it yaws into vertical attitude. This plane will do it, but be prepared to give full down elevator, as it has a lot if pitch coupling when huge rudder input is given at KE position.

4) For this plane, the only channel you really need to mix is your 2nd elevator servo. Set up everything else normally as with an tradition radio system. Plug in the 2nd elevator servo into an aux channel, and mix it with the primary elevator channel. I don't have a Futata radio, so I can't give you too much detail.

Well Seanychen, thanks for the reply. You put things very well and I have a much better understanding now! I have not read the "wing tips" thread but I am going to look for it. Everything you said in your reply makes perfect sense to me and I agree with your theory. I too work in aerodynamics. Not to your extent I'm sure. But I am a pilot/ A and P (airframe and powerplant technician) w/ a degree in aircraft technology, focusing on aircraft structures, repairs and performance modifications on various business jets. More questions:
1) So why do you mix the elevators and in what fashion???
2) Do you think that the s3004 servos w/ 57oz. oz torque is enough for all but rudder??
3) As for your holding to your point about harrier wing rock being due to the wing..... do you think that adding makeshift vortex generators near the wing tips would have any effect??? Or maybe even tiny winglets? (you know, those funny little upswept fins at the end of a wing?)

Snow is melting. I might be able to fly in a couple of weeks. Can't wait.
Thanks,
Barry

seanychen, Hey I was reading your post and I saw where you said to store Saito engines nose down but not YS. Man...wouldn't you know it...I store my UCD and Ultra Stick with the Saito 100 vertical in my closet. I have my Mayhem, Ultra Stick Lite and Funtana all with the YS110 in the same closet, but because of room they needed to be stored nose down. Dang it!!! I always get it wrong, but please, tell my why. Is it really that big of a deal?
Thanks,
Barry

Barry,
I haven't heard about storing the YS Engines nose down. With a Saito, it is suposed to help keep the after run oil that you inject through the rear crankcase vent into the bearings. This is briefly mentioned in the Saito owners manual.

Barry,

I am sorry, but there is nothing wrong with pointing nose down for YS engine. It was in the same sentence that also mentions after run oil, which you should not add to YS engine unless it is a petrolium-free afterrun oil. But if you don't have afterrun oil, pointing the nose down may actually invite some fuel from the fuel tank to come into the engine and undergo oxidation (rust) But if you close off any passage to fuel tank, it's fine to point the nose down.

I've been flying my UCD through winter during the past 2 years. I just bolt on some Dubro plastic skiis. It offsets the elevator trims and CG a little, but hey it's better than no flying.

Sean,

1) Simply mix the 2 elevators servos so they move the same direction and travel the same amount.

2) 3004 is fine for all except rudder. Just make sure your hinges don't bind.

3) I did experiment tip plates on a Funtana 40, and it seems to alleviate the wing rock. So it looks like the theory works. Do a search on wing tips and see the picture of my tip plates.
I have not tried the tip plates on UCD, because it will require more work on this wing. Maybe one of these days...

Barry,
I forgot to mention that after I inject the after run oil (Marvel Air Tool Oil), as it displaces moisture, I plug the crankcase vent with a fuel dot to keep the air out. I also plug the carb inlet and exhaust outlet to keep any air and dirt out of the engine. If the bearings go south within the warranty period, I wanna kind of see how Horizon may try to blame this on me. To be fair here, the liner peeled on one of my OS 61 FX'S ( A Documented Problem), and Hobby Services told me that I was running the engine too lean and not using enough after run oil. They fixed that engine for free, "As a goodwill gesture to a good customer". This is not to mention that oil was leaking out of the front bearing, I was using over the recommended oil mix (20%), including 2% extra castor, running the engine on the rich side, using the recommended "Hobbico" after run oil (Imagine That), after running the engine dry after each flying session and flying it at low speeds, cause after all this engine was installed on my favorite fly and relax trainer!! Go Figure. Brian,,,

I wanted something that would 3D AND do some basic pattern stuff - at age 57 i wanted the flying qualities kinda mild...not too wild - decided to try a used Ucando 60 - after close to 30 flights, i think it's a keeper!..........(short vid - harrier rolls, torque roll, outside knife edge circle) - I think I'll keep my day job...

http://rcfunflyers.com/ucando%205-24-05.wmv

qrcplains, good to hear its a keeper, i got mine right after my trainer (6mos flying it) and its still in my hanger,(well #2is) and it is a great plane, i had no instructors where i live and am self learning (still) couldnt get the vid to come up , will try again later, here are some pics

Looking good GJ, I see you got the Cline and the tank on the CG. Makes a big difference. Had mine out Monday evening and the way it lands still amazes me. It almost dosn't leave tracks in the grass the way it touches down so lightly. Joe

Hey Joe, good to hear from ya, ive kinda got the big do sitting idle for now(not for long) but ive been kinda busy with my little ucd 46 and boy am i having a great time, i love it(got the 100 in it) and its great, ive gotta get a ys110 for the big do but heres some pics of my 46