I'm installing a YS-110. How exact does this 3 degrees need to be? How do you measure it? Do you offset the cowl as well to keep the opening centered with the spinner?

Thanks sooooo much,
I really need the help.
Wade

The 3 degrees doesn't have to be exact. I used 2 washers behind the left side of the mount (2 on top and 2 on bottom). It's close to 3 degrees. I offset the mount to the left so that the prop shaft exits in the middle of the cowling. My thrust angle seems to be right on now. It doesn't pull either way in a vertical line. If you do it that way you don't need to offset the cowl. Just put it on in it's normal location.

go and buy the large size Ernst degree plates, they are dirt cheap and work perfect. You will get a 1, 2, and 3 degree plate per package

John

Yep, I find Ernst plates not only makes it convenient and fast to set right or down thrust angles, but they also spread the stresses evenly on the firewall and engine mount. Washers tend to get pressed into the firewall after some time due to the high vibrating forces spread over a tiny area, and is a safety concern. This will cause a drift in the thrust angle. A set of Ernst plates cost less than a couple bucks from Quantum.

I like the idea of the Ernst plate. Did not know they were available. Washers do compress into the wood, that was always a concern. I did go one step further and took a dremel to one side of the elongated holes on the supplied mount and removed a little bit on all four slots. It resulted in the mount going flush with the side of the fuse and helped center the shaft in the cowl. Does "Quantum" have a website? Thanks, Joe

Here you go Joe : http://www2.mailordercentral.com/quantummodels/ Say hi to Carla for me. She's great.......

I wasn't even aware of the ernst plates. Sounds like a great product at a cheap price. nice time I'll go that route.

Jeeps, trucks and TANKS!

Quantum's part no. for the Ernst 60-size thrust plates is ERN1003. That the biggest there is and it's good enough for the stock UCD mount. No pics in Quantum's site but I believe Tower has pics of them

I just got my U can Do and it is a bit flimsy . I really don't care what it looks like I just want to learn 3D. There are negative comments on the forums and I can see why. The aileron was warped and the wrinkles in the monocote could not be straightened out no matter what I tried. It is a breeze to put together and I will be flying it soon with a Saito 100 . It looks like I will have to be careful with the speed and treat it carefully because it looks like it could break easily. I hear it flies really great though. I would like to get another plane which is built better and would like some suggestions . I will be using a Saito 100 if it fits. Thanks

skip, untill you learn 3D You don't want a better plane, believe me. If you think it looks bad now, you wait untill it's in 100 pieces! this is the hands down best plane to learn 3d without running you in the poor house.
If you really want to learn 3d cheap, spend 180 bucks on the G2 flight simulator, get a good computer with a great graphics card. then learn how to modify the cap 232 for 3d or download an already modified one off the greatPlanes website. Thats how you learn 3D the cheap way

Tower has the Ernst plates. Ordered some today. Thanks for the replies.

One suggestion on the UCANDO covering is to use a seringe needle and go thru the wood in to the hole where it makes the bubble to le the air out so it can strech, don't do it on the covering with no structure(I guess everybody nows this anyway), I just built my second UCANDO after the first one crashes (during an inverted low flyby corrected to lower more and I had an interference between the brain and the finger "I was flying in 3D rates!"), and this model flys as well as the first and I have almost no rudder coupling (YS 91, all equipment in the back (under the wing),I will measure the CG today, never ripped a gear, so I don't know what is going on with the rest my two kits were good and straight, my only suggestion to those with problems is to really check angles and distances with a string and an incidence meter, remember if the aileron have some ofset even if it looks right it will have rudder coupling, when I mean no coupling I mean that I do low knife edge flybys at half throtle with only slight corrections because of the wind, etc.

If you guys are looking for the best in craftmanship I can only recommend airplanes from Top Model like the Diabolic, I have never seen an aircraft with this finish is absolutly perfect, when I received mine I really looked for defects and could not find one, I'm very good builder and I guess most of you too but I can assure you there's no way to do it better than that. Hope this can be useful.

What engine do you think is better in Ucando36 46?

- Tower Hobbies .46 Ball Bearing ABC Schnuerle
or
- Tower Hobbies .61 Ball Bearing ABC Schnuerle

I know a 4 stroke is better and the OS 50 is the apropriate, but it is to expensive.

46 power enough?
61 to heavy and inapropriate?

Please help, and give your opinion, tks

I'm moving my stock tank back to the CG. Do I need to take any precautions to protect the wood in that area? Should I cut out room for it leaving it tight against the fuse or make enough room for foam and such? Will the tank expand under (YS) pressure? Thanks!

The YS pressurizes the tank up to 6psi, use a good quality tank seamless preferred, stops forward and aft and holding it with rubber bands or foam should be enough.The YS pressurizes the tank up to 6psi, use a good quality tank seamless preferred, stops forward and aft and holding it with rubber bands or foam should be enough.

I spayed a coating of clear lustrecoat into the fuse. Wrap your tank with filament tape to reinforce it. There are some pics of tank installation at cg in this thread which should give you a pretty good idea how to do it

I've tried a couple of things, but am wondering how you guys are making out trying to get a harrier out of the UCD? It's funny that it won't snap out of a wall, but if I try to drive the plane around with the nose up, it wants to drop a wing and get all wobbly [:'(]
I'd like it to "mush" so to speak so it can be driven/lowered/harriered etc.
It's a little over 7 pounds with a .90 and the cg is 6.25" or more. Thanks_bob

Mine doesn't harrier worth a damn. Rocks very badly. Of course I'm admittedly no expert in 3D. Walls, hovering, flat spins, and waterfalls are great, but I can't get it to harrier very well at all.

Bummer. So basically the plane will hover, but we can't drive it around like I can my profile?
Anyone having luck lowering it from a hover to the ground?

I & C,

I am using the stock tank with my YS 120. I did wrap the tank once the around the long ways and in two places on the sides. You will just need to open up the formers in the fuse a bit for this to work right. I like using epoxy thinned with rubbing alcohol for fuel proofing. Wrap your receiver in a plastic bag too for just in case.

DL

Better pilots than myself might not have any problems with harriers. I'm not sure how much of the wing rock is my fault versus how much is the planes fault. From looking at video of UCD's I'd assume that most of it is mine

Do you have a link to a UCD doing a harrier or elevator_bob

Not right off hand. There are a lot of videos out there of people flying UCD's, I'll post a link if I find one.

Try spoilerons during the Harrier (raise ailerons with elevator), 30% offset.