Thats the ticket. It rocks due to too much lift. Up ailerons decreases the lift. Joe

I do have that mix. What deflections on elevator and ailerons is working for you?
When you say 30% offset, what exactly are you referring to_bob

Check all control surfaces with gauge and set for recomended throws as listed in manual.
Harrier or elevator: 3D rates on tail. Thats 3" up elv. travel. AIlerons on a flaperon switch calls for 2" travel. Do not start at full 2" up. Reduce by half or less to start and work into a performance/comfort setting. Start small on ail. and work up. If you want to elevator down to a harrier landing be quick on the throttle at tail touch, a little throttle will keep the mains from slamming. Good luck, Joe

Thanks. I'll check it out_bob

Bob, I forgot to mention all recomended manufacturer settings are just that, recommended. A starting point. All models build and fly slightly different. Go slow and good luck. Joe

By offset I mean the ailerons should begin moving after you moved 30% the elevator already, if not the airplane might not go nose up to harrier on some conditions and it is usually at hight angles of attack when the wing rocks, also check the lateral balance, if it is not balanced it will never stop to rock the wings.

I'll need to program that into my 9CAP. There is so much stuff this radio is cable of doing, but I just haven't had the motivation to do it.

I have a JR10X, I used to have an 9ZAP and it was not difficult, first set the amount of mix start abut 50% then the offset will be set while you feed elevator input , i.e, 50% elevator input then push the offset key to mark the start point of spoileron movement.Anyway that's part of the hobby I like to find out about new program features, and you said it about the amount of features a radio can have, I think that about 60% of the computer radio user only use ATV, Subtrim, Expo and D/R. Good luck!.

just to lighten up some what - our marvelous ucan/91fx and our new!!! carbon canopy [8D]

in harrier

and the oh so close[>:]

Hmm.... Yours seems to be ok in that attitude. Is it stable? I notice no spoilerons or anything either. What prop are you using on the .91?

it takes some practice but yes it's stable in most attitudes - we run a 14x6 wood/ms

some t/r

Adrian I hate to beat a dead horse but whats your setup? I am convinced I need the Iron bay regulator now on mine. Almost done with a Saito 100 with coreless Futab'as and hitec digi on the rudder for me. This regulator buisness annoys me now [:'(]

I was kinda annoyed when I figured out i needed a regulator too, but that was a year ago and I'm over it. [sm=lol.gif] Now I'm glad I went that route because an entire year of running with one has proved to me how effective they are. Now I'm just more annoyed at Great Planes for designing the plane with such a poor stock fuel tank location. Great planes obvisouly intended for the user to mount their engine inverted, while at the same time placing the tank too high in the fuse. That's design error as far as I'm concerned. But the plane is a great flyer and I'm forced to overlook a lot of that.

our ucan has been around for a while and we have mixed it in every posible way cg back, far back, forward and the rest and every time we come back to factory spec where she flies the best - interesting but true - we have a os91fx with stock tank, big fuel tubing and drilled clunk - 14x6wood or ms is perfect for us - we have tested all the props like the 15x4 etc - we like the wood because of spool up and the ms for stable t/r - we don't run the cowl because we are in israel and our temp's are to high - we run only morgan omega 5% and o8 os plug - the rest is all practise and mixing of radio - fly this baby slow and she bonks like a crazy horse not the super duper 3d plane but marvelous fun and t/r show off - we have also used other engines like the saito 100 but when your fx runs like ours it kicks ass - best

ps - we run hitec 605's and hobbico c65's all round[&:]

Hi Everyone,

Next week I'm going to start to build my UCD 60. I was talking to a fellow flier at the field and he recommended that I add about 5 degrees of right thurst to my motor when I mount it.

It the right hand thrust needed?

All responses are appreciated.

Regards,
Scooterpilot

Yes, it is right thrust that is needed. If you go back about one page on this thread, you'll see a short discussion on thrust. I used Ernst plates to get mine and with a slight error in drilling the motor mounting holes, I ended up with about 5 degrees. I was going for four.

I'm gonna try and post a picture here (first time) of my modified fuse showing contoured and padded tank supports in place ready to receive the tank.

Great! Here's more then. Pic 1 shows the strapping tape reinforced tank in place. Pic 2 shows the two padded braces ready to complete the install. Pic 3 shows everything being test fitted together.

First pic- Trimmed down servo tray, ready to fit in front of fuel tank location. Second pic- tray installed with balsa block reinforcements. Third pic- servo installed and yes.... i know the servo arm screw isn't in yet but thanks for noticing

In the last couple of pics you can see foam used to isolate the fuel lines from vibration. Remember that foam packaging at the ends of the UCD box? Worked great after cutting off a couple of inches from the thin end. Put one above and one below the fuel lines. It might absorb fuel but I guess I'm trying it anyway.

OOOPS, I put the throttle servo a little to high and the lingage protrudes above the wing line. I'll have to cut it loose and lower the mount a wee bit. So watch that if you're doing a similar install.