I read where some of you in this thread used fueling valves, bulkheads etc....., The way I set my application up using the OS 91 FX as my power source and the Perry P30 for pump. I am using two lines only, with the tank on the CG and one in-line tee between the tank and the pump, I connected my fueling/defueling line to the tee and let it hang out of the cowling, roughly 2 inches, the vent line from the tank hangs down through the bottom of the cowling allowing me to catch the over flow if need be when filling. Now I remember someone mentioning a concern of flooding the carb. The trick to keeping the carb from flooding is to simply shut the barrel all the way.

Cross your fingers everyone, weather providing this eve is the day mine makes it's first flight. Test ran the engine last night in my driveway. Even though I had it tied off on the tail I make it a habit to stand in-front of the horizontal stab and to my surprise I walked away with bruises on my calves where the stabs met my flesh, talking about a stump puller.

I managed to get an extra 400 rpm from the OS 91 FX by swapping out the stock muffler with one off a magnum.

Blackie

I have been having issues with my Cline on my Saito 100 still. It is in the low end. I have pressure from the tank, but when I start it, it will eventually quit at idle, I have to keep jacking the throttle to keep it going. However, after I fly it and bring it in the idle is fine. I am wondering if I am still too lean for the cline..

c016Y, Not before backing out. When you are screwing it in, the throttle must be closed to find the true bottom. If the throttle is open the screw will go in further and not attain a correct setting when backed out 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 turns whichever your engine requires.

Nova, perhaps too lean. I get mine close to attain idle. at idle I adjust until the rpms raise and it smooths out. It always ends up dead on. Watch that prop! Joe

Nova Flyier Mine Saito takes a minute to warm up before I can get a descent idle (2000 RPM) . Even with pre- pressurizing the tank. Try to back out your low end 1/2 to 1/4 turn and see if it helps> I got a feeling you are somewhere around one turn in to lean. Make sure your trim setting on your TX is not two low. Try to keep it around 1800-2000 no lower or it will cut out and dye. Did you try the settings I gave you? that my engine is set at? Steve

I know it's been posted before but I'd like to get some updated information. Those of you running Saito 100's what is the concensus with props. I primarily use a 15x6 APC with good results, but I have also used Zinger Pro wooden 15x6 props as well. The Zinger is about 200 rpm off of the APC which isn't too bad considering it's much lighter.

But the real question I have is about the APC 16x4W. I ordered one a few weeks ago from Central. After receiving it I was amazed by it's size. That thing is huge. I thought about throwing it on the UCD to try it out, but I'd have to hack up my Aluminum spinner. I'd rather not do that unless the 16x4W is going to be outstanding. If it's something I won't end up using I probably will just save it in case I ever get a YS 110. So for those of you with Saito 100's what is your thought on the 16x4W? I've heard some complaints about spoolup time being slow. What are your thoughts and what are your rpm numbers? My Saito currently turns the 15x6 around 9800-9900 peak rpms. I usually run it around 9650.

cumn thru,
I don't know a lot about tuning engines, but, it sounds like you are saying to tune the low end while it is sitting there running with the throttle closed down and you will get the proper idle by leaning it out until it dies and then back off some?

Everyone I have talked to says you have to adjust, take to full throttle, then throw it back down to idle to check the setting. Is this not right? I am guessing you might be giving directions on how a Saito is tuned... where the low end is turned out to allow more fuel in (thus richer) as opposed to the ys where it is an air bleed and the more outward you go the leaner it is? I have not a clue. I would love to be able to just set the idle with it just setting there idle.

Coo, for hovering I think the 16 x 4W is the bomb, gyroscopic stabilization is awasome and really seems to lock the plane in. Now for the bad news.....yes the spool up time is noticably slower, it's a heavy prop and that is to be expected I guess. Even though the spool time is slower I didn't have a hard time flying the plane with it and that was back when I had my OS .91FS installed! I have yet to try it on the 100 for a couple of reasons, I'm not sure it's totally broken in yet being the primary.

In your case I would say try it, mount it without the spinner cone and see how you like it. If you find it's not for you switch back to the 15 incher, no carving would be required.

Yes, I tried your setting and still seem to be having an issue. I truly believe it is just the cool weather and my need to run a little richer.

I thought you fixed it ????....I would turn the regulator screw flush with the casting ...run the engine to temp ...set the high needle .....Then set the idle as per the direction's I gave you ......The direction's I gave you come right from YS and personal experience......I have had engines that are hard to get running just right they just take some time and a process of elimination.....ie: fuel props glow plug tuning ecc ecc...don't be discouraged keep on fighting.....you WILL win .....JW

Nova F I guess With spring here in the 60-70 I haven't Dealt with to much cold weather. And with small engines I would think it would make it finicky. Good luck and if you do ever get it right let us know.

I did fix it, but, it was luck. I turned the regulator and it worked (high was sufficient.. low at least would run with a low idle.. maybe a little rough). I need to ajust the high end and when I do.. I think the low end will have to have a little adjustment. Also asking for future knowledge on the low end thing. Many times there are more than one way of doing things and was hoping to maybe learn from what cumn thru was saying. I am still pretty new to flying, but, have been reading a lot. Reading and in practice are different though.. ya know. Just didn't fully understand the close throttle way of doing it. If that is a non airbleed/saito thing.. well.. it will still be good knowledge b/c am getting ready to buy a saito for a different plane.... I think.

I will reread everything you wrote autoguns. Sounds like you have maybe nailed it with the ys's. Thanks for your help.

Editing... reread autoguns.. yeah... that is the manual way of doing it. It is running decent with the low at 1 1/2 turns out. When I had the regulator off.. it didn't matter what i did with the low end... it seemed to run the same. My problem is I cant' find the exact regulator position that it should be. I thought it was the low end adjustment the first time I did it. It was the first time to tune an engine when I messed it up.. HA. I must sound like an idiot. I have learned LOT since then.

How ya doing? dont misunderstand me I'll help you any way I can ....I re-read my own post ,it does seam like I came off ,sort with you ...Please dont think im an ***** or a know it all ...I'm not..... really.... no kidding...Now with all that being said ...Lets work the problem.......CT was talking about closing the throttle all the way ,then run the low idle screw in until it stops DON'T force it just run it in until it stops ,Then back it out to 1 1/2 turns ...start your motor run to temp set the high needle ....run at full for about 4-5 seconds then return to idle ....if the engine is running rough on idle,the low speed needle is rich. If the engine speeds up and dies on idle or starts to detonate ,when you advance the throttle then it is to lean...set the reg screw flush with the casting /body before you do any of the above....try that and keep me posted....One more thing this fuel system is very suceptible to crap in the fuel so use a good filter like the YS or the Sullivan crap-trap filter.....JW

you comprende.. will try that. Only thing.. I have been told detonate is too lean. Is that the case. Sounds like you were saying the opposite. I do now understand how you have to have it closed to set the low end to full rich.. finally clicked what you were saying.. ha. I do run the filters just like the recommended setup with 2 filters and 1 check valve (like it show in the instructions).

THANKS.. I think I understand what I was doing wrong now.

I just double checked everything and did a quick edit....Please re-read....Thanx ...JW

Oya ..The factory sets them up a little rich , so you have some room to play with it....JW

Very good. I think I am on top of it now. Thanks again autoguns.

Hope it helps you ....I must not work on my 12oz curl's when i type....LOL...JW

you my want to use ys 20/20 fuel also if your not already.....with full synthetic oil....and a type f glow plug

I just got back from purchasing my 12 oz dumbells myself!! ha. ys 20/20, type f.. etc... That is what I use. I know a lot of tidbits about this stuff.. but.. many times.. don't know the basics. That is kind of how it goes when you crash course on stuff like this though.

Just got my everything running right this last time and got my 3d rates set up. Had some problems with a ds811 on the rudder (servo jitters). I just don't like the 811's at all. Used to not have the problem on the elevator, but, do now. It is like the longer I use them the worse they get. Ended up and put a hs5925 coreless digital metal gear, 103 oz and .1 sec at 4.8v. That thing is awesome. I think what was needed was dual ball bearing so there would be little dead band. the ds811 was trying to find center and just shaking like crazy... kept getting worse.. put it on the throttle.

Having problems with harrier on this. Has anyone got this thing to harrier?

Just wanted to drop a line in here and say that my Dad and I had the pleasure of watching Dave Patrick fly our U-Can-Do 60 last night down here in Tampa at the Tampa Radio-Controlled Aircraft Club (TRAC). He really put it through it's paces. Dave is down here preparing for Top Gun in Lakeland. He was flying a Super Cub (Last year's Top Gun Team-Scale winner). Wow...what detail!

Dave, if you read this, thanks a lot. Dad and I appreciate it! Good luck at Top Gun!

c016Y, the trick with those DS811s is to back off on the mounting screws so the servo is floating on the rubber mount grommets. Stopped my jitters cold. Joe

I tried this. Did not work for me unless I backed them out to where there was a visible gap. Also tried sanding out the hole where the servos sat in the fuse to make sure that the servo was utilizing the rubber graumet, getting rid of slop in linkage, and different servo arm. It only does it when on the highest throws on a large control surface (rudder really bad and a little on elevators). Pretty well known problem with the ds 811's especially with the ucd 60 rudder (on rcuniverse). Jr says it is fine as long as it stops when you touch it with your finger. I don't think this is good b/c I am seeing it get noticeably worse on elevators where there used to be no probs after very few flights (about 15). The hs5925 is all I could find in the range I was looking for on the rudder (no sign of ANY play or jitters). I am going to try to find something a little cheaper for the elevator. I just don't like the 811 servos. I think it may be the single ball bearing or the fact it is not coreless?

Are you using ds811's? Or.. experiencing the problem with another servo? I would be suprised if you don't have the problem on the rudder when doing max throws.

I have the DS811s all round and the DS8231 on rudder. I had terrible jitters on the elevators. Backed off the screws, made sure the servo wasn't touching the side anywhere and seen that my linkage was 1 to 1 and it stopped. They say that the centering is so accurate that any slop or bind that it will fight itself to center. Or I may have done something that I just didn't realize, but it stopped. Joe

Hello guys,

I'm just finishing putting UCD 60 together. Specs are YS91FZ, 2xHitec 5925 on elevators, 5945 on rudder, futaba 3010s on ailerons. Lots of mods like tank on CG (6" back) and strengthened firewall and gear block.

Do you think it will be good with this spec? Its taken nearly 5 months to finish, as I haven't had much time on my hands of late, but looking at first flight next weekend now...we'll see!

Let me know what you guys think and if theres any tips I should do to it before flying.

Andy

Herc, now this is just me and how I approach every model. Recommended control throws and recommended CG. You could add weight up front to start and remove small portions to suit your comfort level as you work your way back on the CG. Everything else sounds to be in order. Good luck, those five months will be worth it once you fly it. Joe

You won't be disippointed.......JW

Andy I with Joe with the CG per plans Keep the cowl off for the first two runs so you can do a good wrench check out for any loose bolts and will make any engine adjustments. I still run mine with it off . Landing gear is known for coming loose as well I had mine fall off on one side Made it fun landing it into the tall grass no damage . It will float on in so have fun.