OD type F plugs are mainly for 4-stroke engines so they are hotter since a 4 stroke fires every other rotation of the crank.

As far as fuel delivery, I'm not sure on the Moki, but you may need to put a pump on this one but that depends on something else which I will address at the end of this post. What you did as far as fuel lines works very well for the OS160 but the Moki is even bigger in CC amounts (read that as volume) so you may have no choice. You may have been better off with the standard Slimline instead of the oversize can version. The standard one would have given you more pressure.

You said it in your first post, changing the needles does not change the tuning. If that happens the engine is not getting fuel.

Also, if you have a fueler valve installed (Dubro or Slimline), the type that you plug a probe into to fill the tank, remove it as well as you could be getting air as those are well known to leak and do a three line system with a fuel dot.

I do not believe changing plug is going to do a thing in this case, it's a fuel delivery problem.

i had the same problem with a inline fule filler i got from austria , when the plane was level on the ground it was good as soon as i went up then went vertical it sucked in air and landed dead stick , every thing you learn , now i am using 3 lines to the tank.

Thanks bubbagates!

Yes i am aware of it. It is clearly stated on the package. However it might not be the best choice since the plug is longer in length (for specific 4 stroke engine manufacturing) and the combustion might not happen perfectly on the top of cylinder. I recall it is suggested for inverted mountings, where the oil could simply "drown" the plug.

My fault. I wanted a muffler with smoke predisposition. However, Slimline has only the "Large Volume" mufflers for Mokis. Bisson muffler might be better, dunno.
Not sure for the pump. I'll leave it as a last resort. Don't want to get the plane heavier than this.

I bought one, but never installed. I didn't like the idea of punching another hole in the airframe. Now i'll definitely leave it for a future plane.

Yep. But at least it will help me getting the engine started more easily and the 2V starter plug less attached.

BR

If you were to read back a ways, you will see I first built this plane with the Moki 1.8. Wit hthe tank in the stock position it was way to far away from the carb, I too couldn't get rpm's, even trying 3 different mufflers. I ended up using a Perry Pump on it and it worked great. Don't worry about weight, this plane can handle it. I took the Moki off and put a DL gasser on it and haven't looked back since.

erizzi,

The bisson is actually worse for back pressure. Something to try is to get some steel wool and stuff it into one of the pipes on the muffler. This will increase back pressure and not block exhaust flow too much. I found a long time ago on an OS160 is yes you can totally block one tube off but the engine suffers since it cannot breath as well. I then cut the tubes and stuffed one with the steel wool and then engine ran much better as it was getting the back pressure and could breath better. This was when using the Bisson muffler

Thanks all, very helpful!

Thanks, this is really interesting! Would you be so kind to tell me which pump you used (so i can find it, say, on towerhobbies or such)?

Thanks. Also very interesting. I tried to block one of the exhaust tubes, it didn't help too much. Maybe with steel wool. But you say you cut the tubes, how? And how did you block the steel wool from being pushed outside?

Thanks in advance.
BR

I only cut the tube because I had crimped it shut. I stuffed in the steel wool far enough to get some inside the can portion and never worried about it coming out.

I cut the tubes with a hack saw. A dremel with a cutoff wheel would be fine as well

Try here. http://www.perrypumps.com/prod02.htm

Just going with what the Moki guy uses that flies with us. He swears by OS F's. honestly I do too. I run them in everything.

The VP30 is what you need.

I have a spare v30 if interested

Thanks all for the advices!

on the Perry Pump, well, i understand it will resolve any fuel flow issues, but i'm a bit concerned about drilling the crankcase. What about the oscillating pump?

BR

I believe the VP-30 is the one you need but there are others that can better inform you on this.

to erizzi i found this thred for the moki engin





These are great engines. In a nut shell, things to remember;
*run FAI fuel or 5% on cold days
* use an OS F glow plug
* a 20X8 prop and a gallon of fuel will be needed to run-in the engine so that it will be airworthy, compleat break-in may take much longer
* Use the large fuel line,stopper pass through tube and clunk or it will be nothing but problems..
These folks may have some engines too:

Got the plane today from tower. Everything looks awesome. I CAN'T wait to get the biuld going.

Well i get home today and check the frontdoor for electronics from tower. Nothing. UPS says it was suposed to arrive today so i check the websit. Says delivered to Glendale AZ. [:@][:@][:@][:@]. I AM IN PHOENIX UPS. To make matters worse it say "met cust man" wich a quick search on the net tells me the person it was delivered to accepted the package. Man, at 17 i can barely afford this plane. If i don't get my $400 of electronics i am screwed.

Cambo,
Call Tower and tell them. The same thing happened to me. I live in Indiana and they (UPS) sent my package to Florida! Dont let Tower give you that crap about "we'll wait and see if UPS credits us". In the mean time your sitting with nothing. Remind Tower you payed for your items and didnt receive them!

I got e-mail from UPS today and aparentley it was delivered to the wrong adress. It says they will call me latter today. I will see what there answer is and i will call tower after.

NO SCHOOL TODAY

Cool

Anyway
I start the biuld today without the elctronics. I have been in contact with tower and UPS and they are both on the case for my lost electronics.

It looks as if i will be able to do just about everything except joining the wing. The hinges are going in today. I am taking my time and trying to get a good tite fit. I really like these robart hinges. I am never using CA hinges again!!!! Looking over the airframe i am very happy with the design. It apears VERY lite and VERY strong.

use a little Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the hinge joints when you epoxy them to keep them from getting epoxy in them, especially when you push the surfaces together.

Cambo, You can still join the wings and add the servos later. Just open your hole in your wing that is for the servo wire and untape the string from the root . Then pull it up through the hole and tape it off. Then you can install your servos when you get them with no problem. Might save you alittle time

Well guys I have to say I am going to stop reading this thread before long as I have grown wearly of my CAP and am moving on to something else. I am selling my GP CAP 232 without motor or radio to anyone willing to purchase it. Look in my ads for pics and details.......Just didn't live up to my desires. It is a true scale flier and I am more into the flip and flop of sport models.

You'll have fun shipping that wing!![&:][&:][&:][&:]

If I needed a spare, I might be interested. Your only 30 miles from me! With my DA 50 on mine, its a blast!

Waross,
I thought you were selling the 27% GP Cap. I see you have the smaller 40 size version for sale. Totally differant animal