i've got a old Schumacher turnbuckle on the elevator run, it's 3mm metric thread, one end its right handed thread, other left, so you can turn the turnbuckle whilst in place and it adjusts the distance, even ore acurate than the half turn you have on the clevis. works perfect, just need to find more at the right lenght now for the rest... or... Carters? how about going into biz with me.. also got a servo based idea that the factory you work for "might" be able to produce

pete tindal does smaller versions now for the smaller model,got some for my new capiche 50

bugger

ooooo, smaller rods! do you know how much they'll be? i cant get myrother to give me 14 quid...........but if its 10..................

Ian

15.50 for a full kit with ball links and carbon rod etc

ill post picture tomorow,just flew back from hols and im knackered.

i've still got all of my set, only using two horns, and the links... the CF rod is even still in the pack.
wonder if i could swap my rods and adaptors for the smaller ones, tho.. i'm all set up on metal rods now. spose i can save it for something else later

if you knew the cost of setting up a mould i think you would cry!!

if you knew there was nothing out there like this at the moment, you would cry too. with happiness. but surely some turnbuckles arent out of the question.

do you want something making?
i cant do the really small stuff on the lathes at college.
do me a diagram/scribble on a beer mat

we'll talk about it next time up the field
turnbuckles made from 5-6mm hex rod should be pretty easy tho

5-6mm
--------------
thats doable

I paid £4.20 for a 1mtr 3mm rod, and the ally bits were foc, but shouldnt cost more than £1 or so.

think archie would be interested in those as part of the reccomended capcihe hardware pack? worth a ask hey. they do look good, "Team money" flyers are suckers for carbon and blue bits

I need carbon rods on many of my planes. my rudder ones got a bend in it!

that turnbukle idias a good'un. i think alot of modlers would whant them on cold winter days. maby a lock nut on either end??

Yep, Archie has asked for a sample

lock nut of course, tho using plastic ball links acts like a lock anyway because the plastic grips the thread. best bit is, theres a nut half way because its turned from ahex rod, to adjust you just unnip your lock nuts, and twist the turnbuckle. got a few ideas in my dead for design, standard lenghts ect. only one thing in my head says...
on the metal clevis there is already a thread, would this work on the left handed thread... im not sure, so you would need a ball link at that end whch cuts its own thread.
over all tho, the idea is good, and it's needed.
Graham, could get some of your cf end adaptors turned up with left hand threads to make the same thing in your style. would work much better over longer distances

Get us a pic in phill.

is a 5-6mm hex rod turned down with a right hand thread one end, left he other hard to imagine eddy? LOL
kiddin...
heres mine on the elevator

o, i didnt think it was like that

I think ive got the same set as Surret3styla.
I think they are 3mm thick rods horns and ball links. Unfortunately the HS 945 coreless i got from als hobbies is too big to put in the rudder servo hole at the back. It sticks out too far and clashes with the elevator. Looks like i will be using a closed loop for the rudder again like The Boy.


I have got a question about the knife edge coupling. I understand that cplr said it needed more dihedral. Surely you could get around this by chamfering the wings tips at an angle like on the Chris Foss range of kits?

hes the kinda pilot that would notice the difference in flight if a little bubble appeared in the covering . while i can't put it on edge and expect it to stay there all day, it's no different to level flight, you just need to adjust every now and again. i don't notice any roll at all, it just needs its direction kept in check.

Cool!
My flair cub does the most brilliant knife edge, even though it has a lot of coupling.
I havent flown any other trainer like the Flair Cub. the Kyosho is like flying a pair of car keys compared to it.
I went solo on it 4 years ago, and i still fly it.Sorry,back on topic , what c of g is everybody using?
heres the building stage dad and i are at .

the rudder / aileron coupling is there but its slight enough to manually correct it. If anything the rudder / elevator coupling is slightly worse and worth mixing out for KE

C of G - I started in the middle and gradually moved it back until I just need a hint of down when inverted. This gives it good waterfall and KE loop ability, but its still smooth enough for pattern style aeros on low rates.

Chris

oooo, very nice mate. that'll be built for september!i say put the CG on the TE :spinnyeye