Howard, this is just mypersonal opinion but these things take enough time to assemble as is.
Mine is Saito 170R powered and I only use two servos, DS821, standard Spektrum and it is plenty for the plane.
They do not struggle and she flies beautifully, so 6kg servo's will do the job a treat and keeps it simpler!
Gary.

Hi,
I have a superstearman a GP with motor OS120SIII.
I would want to replace the motor with a new gas engine 26-30cc with a beautiful realistic sound.
I would to receive your councils. Thanks
Robert

I originally had my set up for 2 servos and switched it to 4 after I go tired messing with the slave rods. My top wing servos are Y'd in the wing and I have a charge jack mounted to the fuse right next to one of the cabanes. All I have to do is plug in one servo wire in. A lot less hassle than the slave rods.

You must be very lazy if you reckon four clevis's are hassle.
Two extra weight servo's to go wrong is hassle.

madmodelman,
I don't think that's a cool thing to be saying. [sm=angry.gif]I have 4 servos and they have been working great. I'm not going to get into what’s better. I have been following this thread way before I bought mine. I have read every comment, asked everyone I know bought it and finely concluded that that’s all they are comments. No one has ever given me any true aeronautical evidence that one way it better then another. I’m only talking about models not the full size.
The best way is what you want and feel is right for you. And that is the answer; if one feels more comfortable with 2 servos or 4 that’s what one should do. The only difference I can see is that 2 give a model more of a scale look. I have been flying mine for about 2 years with 4 servos and I have also flown demonstration at Air shows. No one has ever said to me that isn’t to scale. What they say is how cool it looks
I asked a friend and the guy who thought me now to fly years ago. And who actually has training in a full scale Stearman told me this when I asked him about it. He said it all for fun so if you want to fly scale use 2 servos, if you want to fly the hell out of it and do not care about scale then use the 4.
I say to each his own….have fun and don’t sweat the small stuff.
Shubova
[8D]

Jim,
I don't think I posted any pics showing the engine installation but I am almost sure I have seem some posted some were one this thread. The intallation shouldn't be to much different than the 120...you may have to cut more out of the cowling for clearance of the valve covers.
Good Luck
Shubova
[8D]

Howard I think a 30 cc would be very good. I have 4 servos all so and it works great. I have a 50cc dl in mine. I all so installed a smoke system and love it. I would beef up the fire wall some. I used baking soda and thin ca. I use a long drinking straw with my finger over the end, to keep the baking soda in. I put the nose of the plane down and look inside with a flash light. I try to make a 45deg. angles about 1/2 " wide , do one side at a time. Then I squirt in a lot of the thin ca. It make some strong fumes ! Try it on some scrap wood. It is very strong!! The thing you might want to do is get some better tires. I used Du-bro tread lights and they don't bounce much. Good luck

I don't remember saying anything about the clevises, smart *****. I'm glad you know me so well as to be able to make such an educated assumption. For the record, I call it a hassle to keep track of the rods. I call it a hassle when I get to the flying field and I can't find one of the ods. With 4 servos I get more throw out of the top ailerons and a better roll rate.

I like your idea of using a long drinking straw as a baking soda distributor. I am not sure if you place the baking soda and then squirt the CA or CA first and then the baking soda I am guessing baking soda first. Do you think the CA/baking soda approach is better than epoxy? I have been thinning 15 min expoxy with rubbing alcohol, pouring it in at an angle and then rotating the fuse back and fort so that the epoxy gets distributed along the firewall to fuse joint. As the epoxy begins to cure it slows down as you rotate the fuse back and forth and then finally it stays pretty much where you want it and it does penetrate into all crevices. I am sure game for trying the baking sodo and CA.

I also have enough feedback to decide to use four servos and based on what I have read I don't think metal gear servos are needed for the ailerons so I can use either HS-5485 or HS-5475 which I happen to have. I was planning to use HS-5645 MG for the elevators and rudder but that might be a little over kill. One last comment is that I am going to use an ignition battery eliminator (IBE) and only have one 2S A123 2300 mah battery or the new hobbico LiFe 3200 mah battery. Besides that weight savings the IBE helps to reduce hassle factor.

Howard

Clevis's are the little things that go on the end of the rods, you don't have to start calling me names, that's just childish.
My comment was not meant to be nasty.
By the way, GP provide a nice carrying handle specially designed to hold the struts and rods so they don't get lost.

Hi Howard. Yes you would place the baking soda first. Don't make it to thick or the ca won't go all the way through. The way you have been doing is okay all so. Try the ca and baking soda on some scrap. Smack it with a hammer, I think you will find it super strong.
I used lipos 9v for the engine and 12 volt for the servos. I had to use voltage regulators. Those lipos last a very long time. This was my first time using lipos. Main thing is to keep a eye on your voltage. I use a voltwatch on all my planes. Most stores have them.
Good luck

A lot of people go over the top with servo's, 20 odd years ago we never had or could afford big servos, I have a 20yr old 1/4 scale aeronca champ that still fly's on its old std Futaba servos !

My Stearman which has over 100 flights has 2 x spek DS821 for the ailerons, JR591 on rudder and throttle and Hitec 5625 on elev.

I concur with using the DS821’s. I had them on all points until I was finding that the posts were breaking when I stressed them on the elevator. Luckily I never had a complete break while flying. The problem turned out to me not the servo; NEVER use Loctite on those plastic posts. I changed out the servos to metal gears/posts and you can read about it in an earlier post. The reason I was using Loctite on those and not the ailerons was I knew I could check the ailerons after each flight easier than checking the elevator and rudder. Reading all these recent comments reminded me I forgot to update the group on the problem.

I still think the Saito 170 radial is the best motor for the aircraft. It lets the aircraft perform as a Super Stearman and sounds great. If they ever offer a Gas conversion for that engine I may consider changing. With the Keleo exhaust the oil is not an issue. Some people have said it does not work with smoke but I don’t know because I don’t run smoke on any aircraft.

Just some of my thoughts worth every penny you paid for them.

Where did you use loctite ? was it on the screw holding on the servo arm or for the splines of the servo output arm/post

I put it on the screw holding on the servo arm. It will weaken the plastic post; do not use. You can use it on metal posts with treaded bolts just not on the plastic posts with screws. On my helicopters I use medium CA but when you do that you will not get the arm, screw or servo separated. Heli has more vibration and less tolerant to loose screws.

[8D]

In 27 years never had a screw come out of a servo, so dont see the need. If using metal output arms and metal servo arms then you should use serated washers.

I my be pushing it alittle here but it is worth a shot.......... I must have this plane as my Satio 150 is starting to feel cold and lonely,and once you go BI (plane,that is!!!) you never go back.I lost my beloved Cermark pitts after hundreds of flights do to battery pack failer,the worst part being that it was the first flight after installing a new pack for preventive maintenance(Cheap no-name pack,terrible solder joint) .Anyways times being what they are and money is tight,does anyoe have a Tower Hobby super-savers club money off code that I could kinda "borrow". I have heard of savings of $50 or more,maybe somebody could give this unemployed skilled tradesman a hand. Thanks Brain

Join Tower's Super Savers . You'll get the $10.00 back on the first order, because shipping is free on orders over $150.

You'll get $50.00 off of a $300.00 order.

Can you use the fuel tank that comes with the SS for gas? If not which tank did you use? Thanks

Howard

Yes just change the bung

Thank you sir.

Howard

AND the flexible tubing!

When I bought the bung kit for gas, it even came with the Tygon tubing. OBTW, if you buy the recommended replacement tank, it doesn't fit, it is quite a bit too large.

So I picked up a Super Stearman last week after reading this ENTIRE thread from the start and was happy to see that Great Planes was sending people Du-Bro inflatable wheels as replacements for the poor quality ones that are supplied. I figured what the heck, I have those same wheels on some of my other planes, so I will call and ask them to fire a set off to me. I told them about the problems that the forum members are having and the fellow says "Hang on...I'll check it out". After a couple minutes, he gets back on the phone and says "Nope, they have sorted out the problem, so we can't send replacements".
RATFR#@!*$#)?!!!!!!!!
So much for that!

I knew better than to ask. It took 2 tries to get the replacement Aileron pushrods, 1 was 4-40 threaded, the other was 3.5 mm or something, no 4-40 hardware would fit it. They got me the replacements though, so I should be ok. I will deal with the rock hard retreads later....