Has anyone had to change their wheels yet. I've been trying to find replacement wheels for the Patty but everything I buy is too wide. I've tried the Dave Brown 4" Lite Wheels, the Sullivan Skylite and they are both too wide for the pants. I've tried Hobico Support and they tell me that there is no replacement wheels within their system as of yet. So, if anyone knows what kind of 4" wheel that are about 1 1/8" wide, please let me know.

Use sullivan wheels and put your dremel to use cutting the opening for the wheels bigger. It only takes a few minutes and looks great.

Just received my 300S today.................
Wing tube sockets are fiberglass the tube itself is aluminum, looks good. The Canopy's paint does match very well to the Monokote......The tinted shield is nice ....... Cowl is very smart looking but has touch up marks.... again, nothing to complain about........ Monokote needs some attention, little wrinkly but typical So far, and I am still looking at boxed hardware and plastic wrapped wings, my first impression is very good.......... I am excited............. 3.2 on this ship is going to raise some hairs I'm sure............ Very smart looking Plane.........
One thing that I said got me attacked though.......
"Can't wait till the standoffs arrive! " I was hit with "you're not using the gas rubber mount?" When I explained to the guys how I was setting it up they all disagreed and said "I was crazy, do some research".................. If someone/s want to help me understand better so I can put these club members on the right track I would appreciate it...... I myself wonder why M.A.N used an Isolation mount with the Fuji Engine??????
Sure am glad it arrived safe........ long trip for it

They are on there way!!!!

I've tried putting on the Sullivans but they're just too wide. The only way they would work is if I cut the whole wheel raduis out of the outside of the pant. When I put pants on, I usually put a piece of 3/16 ply almost 3/4 the length of the pants and reinforce the wood with fiberglass. This had made the mounting side of the pant a little thicker, but not much. The Sullivans simply just won't fit. I really need narrower tires and wheels.

Maxb,
I'd cut another servo opening next to the existing one or just route it from the other side servo hole. If you install a choke servo you don't really need the optical kill switch.
Solder a battery connector it the ignition module and then get the Cermark switch with the built in charge receptacle. You'll want to be able to check the status of your ignition battery without removing the hatch. Definitely move the tank over the wing tube and use a 16 oz tank. I have 1/3 left in the tank after a twelve minute run.

Aeromodeler,
Do a search and I think you'll find opinions are 50-50 on soft mounts. At our field I have seen 7 Patty's and zero soft mounts.

Here is a post about hard or soft mounting a gas engine from November, 2002.

Modelers use to soft mount their gas engines years ago but today most don't. I don't know why M.A.N. showed the soft mount Fuji engine but I can guess why. First the Fuji is not the best gas engine for the Patty, it's too heavy at 5.28 lbs., about 2 lbs more than the BME 50, but they (Great Planes) are the distributors for Fuji. The soft mount they show is made by Great Planes -- do I need to say more?

Recently our club sponsored an IMAC competition and had about 40 gas giants from all over the southeast region, ranging in price from $3,000 to $15,000 and not one had a soft mounted gas engine.

Your absolutely right RCGUY1, The soft mount went away with the dinosaurs.

What was discovered is with the soft mounts, you would remove certain vibrations, but would introduce some others in the harmonic department.

Here is what I have on my own larger airplane with 3 years flying with no problem.

Thanks guys......... found myself unprepared for the comments...
Roger thanks for the update on the standoffs.. looking forward to installing the engine..........
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Cap-Tain try Sullivan Lite wheels . They are narrower and should fit.

Thanks for the suggestion, but are the Sullivan Skylite and Lite wheels the same? The Sullivan Skylite are great looking wheels but they're about 4 oz each heavier than what's on there and they won't fit.

wow almost 200 pages!

I'm only on page 99. I must have twice as many posts on each page. I was going to say "wow, almost 100 pages"

Guys if you go to MyRCU you can edit the number of posts per page. This will change the number of pages.

Andy,
I know you had some bad luck the other day but I was wondering if you can help me out again. I could buy those old used wheels from you since you've got another kit. Whenever I find someone who has the narrower 4" wheels, I could always get you another set. Whatta think? Between you and me, we could always keep at least one Patty in the air. Hamburgers for all my friends.....

Cap-Tain, I believe the Sullivan SkyLite and the Sullivan Lites are one in the same. I don't know what to say. It looks as if all of us will need replacement wheels if we are lucky and you know what I mean.

The Skylite have a plastic center and the Lites have an aluminum hub, like
these

BME 50 throttle and choke:

"Regarding the throttle and choke servos -- after reading many posts on this and other threads I have decided I'd like the choke to be controlled by a servo. Since the throttle and choke are both on the same side of the engine (obviously), but there is only one servo mounting place in the servo tray on the right hand side of the plane, does anybody have any ideas how I can mount my throttle and choke servos next to each other in a way that does not look "rigged", whilst maintaining the straightest possible shot for the pushrods"

The throttle and choke servos can be mounted in the top right hatch area, near the dash, as you saw in the photo somewhere in this thread. They are placed sideways and stacked, choke on bottom, throttle on top. If you have ever mounted an aileron servo on a plywood plate in the wing, then you will know how to do it. You will need to grind off the metal arm on the choke and replace it with a nylon steering arm. Carl Goldberg makes one that looks nice. I used sullivan plastic pushrods. The whole thing works great.

Peter

I put the servo for the choke on the side of engine box and it works great. I made a backet on the side of it to set it down in. If you need me to i can put my cowl and get you a picture.

Good Luck
James

That's pretty close to the ignition and a potential RFI problem. Have you flown it like that?

I have been flying it for 6 mos. with no problem i use Hitec rec. no problems with RFI on gas and ignition when you use them. Are you can use PCM without problems but FM hitec cost less and work. The guy that test BME engines told me to use them.

Good luck
James

An alternate to grinding the choke is to use a Dubro HD servo arm and grind out the bottom a little so it will sit on the existing arm. Then a small bolt,washer and nut to hold it on. Mine is very solid.

The choke servo under the cowl sounds scary, I'm not even comfortable with them at the front of the canopy. One in the regular tray and cut another opening next to it for the choke.

Guys, here is how we do it with the servos right with the engine with no chance of any problems, by the use of Fiber Optic servo extensions. You even use the ignition battery to power these two servos.

Roger,
That's a *****in set-up but, these are only 25% Arf's that sell for $350. Just my opinion but maybe overkill.

BasinBum, I like your idea of not having to cut the original arm off of the choke lever, but how did you compensate for the original arm being mounted at an angle evidently designed for manual push-pull operation from an angle that is 90 degrees to the crank, rather than with it, which is direction a servo would push/pull from? Do you have any pics of your choke arm setup at the carb?

Thanks....Martin