Vertigo II Build Thread
#101
Thread Starter

Fixing a hole in a fiberglass fuselage- Pt. 1
The built in motor mount (bad idea) in my fuselage 1) Has left thrust 2) The beams are not parallel. Thanks Skyglas. The complaint counter at Skyglas has been closed for 30 years, so no point *****ing, just fix it and move on.
After much thought on how to go about salvaging the situation, I came up with Plan C: Use a different fuselage.
The problem is, this one has a hole cut in it for a nose-dragger set-up. Since I am not building this one as a nose-dragger, the hole needs fixin'. Here's how to go about it:
1. Cut some glass cloth slightly larger than the area to be patched. Here I am using a piece of 7 oz. and a piece of 4 oz.
2. Cut a piece of Econokote slightly larger that the area to be patched.
3. Iron the Econokote on to the nose of the the old fuse. The low heat and stretchy compliance of the Econokote make it ideal for this. I bet that you could cover a tennis ball with this stuff.
4. Spray the Econokote with your favorite mold release. Presto- instant mold.
5. Lay up the glass over the Econokote. Allow to cure.
Once the layup is cured, it will be peeled off of the Econokote, trimmed, and glassed in the fuselage from the inside. Then add a little filler and some sandpaper, and it is like it never happened. Stay tuned.
The built in motor mount (bad idea) in my fuselage 1) Has left thrust 2) The beams are not parallel. Thanks Skyglas. The complaint counter at Skyglas has been closed for 30 years, so no point *****ing, just fix it and move on.
After much thought on how to go about salvaging the situation, I came up with Plan C: Use a different fuselage.
The problem is, this one has a hole cut in it for a nose-dragger set-up. Since I am not building this one as a nose-dragger, the hole needs fixin'. Here's how to go about it:
1. Cut some glass cloth slightly larger than the area to be patched. Here I am using a piece of 7 oz. and a piece of 4 oz.
2. Cut a piece of Econokote slightly larger that the area to be patched.
3. Iron the Econokote on to the nose of the the old fuse. The low heat and stretchy compliance of the Econokote make it ideal for this. I bet that you could cover a tennis ball with this stuff.
4. Spray the Econokote with your favorite mold release. Presto- instant mold.
5. Lay up the glass over the Econokote. Allow to cure.
Once the layup is cured, it will be peeled off of the Econokote, trimmed, and glassed in the fuselage from the inside. Then add a little filler and some sandpaper, and it is like it never happened. Stay tuned.
#102
Thread Starter

Fixing a hole in a fiberglass fuselage- Pt. 2
Sand the outside of the part for adhesion while it is still stuck on the mold surface. Convenient.
6 & 7. Now that the resin is cured, you simply peel the part away from the mold.
8. Mark and trim the part. Here I am using some sheet metal snippers.
9. Glue in the hole. A little filler... you get the idea. I'm not going to glue it in yet. I am going to put a doubler in place for the wing dowels, and a bit of glass to reinforce the rear of the firewall where it interfaces with the fuselage. I want to spread the engine loads out a bit into that old brittle polyester glass. The hole is convenient access for this work.
Sand the outside of the part for adhesion while it is still stuck on the mold surface. Convenient.
6 & 7. Now that the resin is cured, you simply peel the part away from the mold.
8. Mark and trim the part. Here I am using some sheet metal snippers.
9. Glue in the hole. A little filler... you get the idea. I'm not going to glue it in yet. I am going to put a doubler in place for the wing dowels, and a bit of glass to reinforce the rear of the firewall where it interfaces with the fuselage. I want to spread the engine loads out a bit into that old brittle polyester glass. The hole is convenient access for this work.
#103
Thread Starter

Engine going in. Weapon of choice- Magnum .61 XLS. Looks like an OS .61 FSR clone. I wish that I still had that one. The fourth photo shows the completed nose wheel opening fix.
#104
Thread Starter

1. Cut a balsa shim, and Hot Stuff it to the nose ring of the fuselage. Here I am using an otherwise useless piece of heavy C grain 1/16 balsa.
2. Slip the engine into the bay. Bolt up the backplate, and tack Hot Stuff the spinner back plate to the balsa spacer.
3. Now you can accurately mark/drill the engine mount holes. Shave off the balsa shim from the fuselage nose ring. Congratulations, you now have and accurate, neatly spaced spinner gap.
4. You are "old school", or just "old" if you still call CA glue "Hot Stuff".
2. Slip the engine into the bay. Bolt up the backplate, and tack Hot Stuff the spinner back plate to the balsa spacer.
3. Now you can accurately mark/drill the engine mount holes. Shave off the balsa shim from the fuselage nose ring. Congratulations, you now have and accurate, neatly spaced spinner gap.
4. You are "old school", or just "old" if you still call CA glue "Hot Stuff".
#107
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: doxilia
Or, Super Jet...
Those Newcastle's seem to help with the alignment too - very old school!
David.
Or, Super Jet...

Those Newcastle's seem to help with the alignment too - very old school!
David.
-Robert
#109
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From: corona del mar,
CA
Using the spinner is a great idea. What I then do is to use some 3M77 and glue an 80 grit disc to the back of the spinner backplate, mount the cone and then hit it with you electric starter. Bingo a perfectly spaced spinner!
Scott
Scott
#110
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: smacfe
Using the spinner is a great idea. What I then do is to use some 3M77 and glue an 80 grit disc to the back of the spinner backplate, mount the cone and then hit it with you electric starter. Bingo a perfectly spaced spinner!
Scott
Using the spinner is a great idea. What I then do is to use some 3M77 and glue an 80 grit disc to the back of the spinner backplate, mount the cone and then hit it with you electric starter. Bingo a perfectly spaced spinner!
Scott
-Robert
#113
Thread Starter

Since I have opted to not make this airplane a nose dragger, I have to find a way to mount the funny little wheel in the back. I found a really cool item at Central Hobbies for a reasonable price, but I figured that I could make up something at least as equally heavy from available materials that I have on hand. A quick treasure hunt yielded the tailwheel bracket from my now defunct Venus II, a new tailwheel, some used wheel collars, and a chunk of 3/32 wire. I drilled a hole through the bottom of the tailpost, and glued in a piece of hardwood to receive the mounting screws. After some wire bending and sheet metal renewal, I mounted the new assembly to the fuselage. Steering will be via a spring or rubber band hooked to the rudder.
#115
Thread Starter

Tff,
The stab is actually built, you can see it back near the beginning of the thread. It came out nicely.
No weights yet. I need to borrow the scale from work (writing note to self). The only weight I have right now is the rudder, weighing in a 7 grams (1/4 oz).
-Robert
The stab is actually built, you can see it back near the beginning of the thread. It came out nicely.
No weights yet. I need to borrow the scale from work (writing note to self). The only weight I have right now is the rudder, weighing in a 7 grams (1/4 oz).
-Robert
#118
Thread Starter

I have some weight data for the Vertigo:
Wing- complete ready to fly- 2 Lb, 12 oz.
Fuselage w/ covered rudder, stab, elevators & pushrod- 2Lb, 4oz.
Remainder of radio gear- 10oz.
Engine & muffler- 1Lb, 12oz.
= 7Lb, 6oz.
Unweighed stuff: Prop, Spinner, elevator pushrod, throttle pushrod, servo plate, etc: est. Approx. 8-10oz.
So I am looking at right around 8 Lbs dry. Not bad at all. That is a full pound less than my last one. Now I am sanding off the rather thick gel coat from the fuselage. I am going with the weigh of the gelcoat will wash for the weight of the paint that will replace it.
Wing- complete ready to fly- 2 Lb, 12 oz.
Fuselage w/ covered rudder, stab, elevators & pushrod- 2Lb, 4oz.
Remainder of radio gear- 10oz.
Engine & muffler- 1Lb, 12oz.
= 7Lb, 6oz.
Unweighed stuff: Prop, Spinner, elevator pushrod, throttle pushrod, servo plate, etc: est. Approx. 8-10oz.
So I am looking at right around 8 Lbs dry. Not bad at all. That is a full pound less than my last one. Now I am sanding off the rather thick gel coat from the fuselage. I am going with the weigh of the gelcoat will wash for the weight of the paint that will replace it.
#119

My Feedback: (43)
An even easier way to the tail wheel is to use a piece of fuel tubing. Cut your hook part off of your tail wheel wire, slip a piece of fuel tubing as far as it will go then screw through the tube into the rudder where you have it now. give a clean install, and still provides a little shock resistance for the rudder servo.
#120
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: JeffH
An even easier way to the tail wheel is to use a piece of fuel tubing. Cut your hook part off of your tail wheel wire, slip a piece of fuel tubing as far as it will go then screw through the tube into the rudder where you have it now. give a clean install, and still provides a little shock resistance for the rudder servo.
An even easier way to the tail wheel is to use a piece of fuel tubing. Cut your hook part off of your tail wheel wire, slip a piece of fuel tubing as far as it will go then screw through the tube into the rudder where you have it now. give a clean install, and still provides a little shock resistance for the rudder servo.
-Robert
#121
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From: santa fe,
TX
OK..Hi..Just read the entire thread.....I have a plane from Sky Glas..Madison Hobby.....I bought it in 2008..huge original box....The fuse looks very similar..but has difference...hope someone can tell me what I have..I think It may be a Phoenix.....The fuse is white gelcoat..smooth but needs a little attention where the 2 halves were joined..no problem....it looks different on the tail....where I see in your pics what look to be pushrod exit housings,,2 of them...my fuse has none!..the rear of the fuse has a rounded opening as a jet exhaust exit on a real plane with the rudder ending above this..also the elevator assembly has to have an appropriate hole cut into the fuse for its fit. the wings and tail are white foam covered with a beige plastic type covering....it is not monocote or any similar product..it is a sheet plastic/vinyl ..looks like it came that way....There are no instructions.so I am paying attention to your build thread.
there is a wooden motor mount that is installed..would rather have a Dubro or similar....am somewhat clueless about the front wheel hook up...
anyway...if anyone has any info on just what this plane is....It looks like the Vertigo.but as I said..there are differences....
ok...hoping to hear from you guys....
thx...joe
there is a wooden motor mount that is installed..would rather have a Dubro or similar....am somewhat clueless about the front wheel hook up...
anyway...if anyone has any info on just what this plane is....It looks like the Vertigo.but as I said..there are differences....
ok...hoping to hear from you guys....
thx...joe
#123
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: ponda
OK..Hi..Just read the entire thread.....I have a plane from Sky Glas..Madison Hobby.....I bought it in 2008..huge original box....The fuse looks very similar..but has difference...hope someone can tell me what I have..I think It may be a Phoenix.....The fuse is white gelcoat..smooth but needs a little attention where the 2 halves were joined..no problem....it looks different on the tail....where I see in your pics what look to be pushrod exit housings,,2 of them...my fuse has none!..the rear of the fuse has a rounded opening as a jet exhaust exit on a real plane with the rudder ending above this..also the elevator assembly has to have an appropriate hole cut into the fuse for its fit. the wings and tail are white foam covered with a beige plastic type covering....it is not monocote or any similar product..it is a sheet plastic/vinyl ..looks like it came that way....There are no instructions.so I am paying attention to your build thread.
there is a wooden motor mount that is installed..would rather have a Dubro or similar....am somewhat clueless about the front wheel hook up...
anyway...if anyone has any info on just what this plane is....It looks like the Vertigo.but as I said..there are differences....
ok...hoping to hear from you guys....
thx...joe
OK..Hi..Just read the entire thread.....I have a plane from Sky Glas..Madison Hobby.....I bought it in 2008..huge original box....The fuse looks very similar..but has difference...hope someone can tell me what I have..I think It may be a Phoenix.....The fuse is white gelcoat..smooth but needs a little attention where the 2 halves were joined..no problem....it looks different on the tail....where I see in your pics what look to be pushrod exit housings,,2 of them...my fuse has none!..the rear of the fuse has a rounded opening as a jet exhaust exit on a real plane with the rudder ending above this..also the elevator assembly has to have an appropriate hole cut into the fuse for its fit. the wings and tail are white foam covered with a beige plastic type covering....it is not monocote or any similar product..it is a sheet plastic/vinyl ..looks like it came that way....There are no instructions.so I am paying attention to your build thread.
there is a wooden motor mount that is installed..would rather have a Dubro or similar....am somewhat clueless about the front wheel hook up...
anyway...if anyone has any info on just what this plane is....It looks like the Vertigo.but as I said..there are differences....
ok...hoping to hear from you guys....
thx...joe
P.S. Thanks for reading the entire thread. I appreciate the interest. I hope that you found it worth your while.
-Robert
#124
Thread Starter

Progress report:
Sanding off the gel coat. Gel coat is great on boats and hot tubs, but not so great for airplanes. It is useful for leveling out surfaces. Here you see 4 hours hard labor with 50 (!) grit sandpaper using a long block. This stuff is like sanding concrete. Where you see glass is a high spot, where you see gel coat is a low spot. The surface looks nice and even in the light. I will hit it with some 150 grit to finish out the rough spots, and hit the detail areas. I want to accomplish this prior to mounting the stab to keep the hangar rash to a minimum. I will borrow the work scale again, I swear that it feels much lighter now.
Classic pattern kit construction- pansies need not apply.
Sanding off the gel coat. Gel coat is great on boats and hot tubs, but not so great for airplanes. It is useful for leveling out surfaces. Here you see 4 hours hard labor with 50 (!) grit sandpaper using a long block. This stuff is like sanding concrete. Where you see glass is a high spot, where you see gel coat is a low spot. The surface looks nice and even in the light. I will hit it with some 150 grit to finish out the rough spots, and hit the detail areas. I want to accomplish this prior to mounting the stab to keep the hangar rash to a minimum. I will borrow the work scale again, I swear that it feels much lighter now.
Classic pattern kit construction- pansies need not apply.
#125
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From: santa fe,
TX
Ok..Will try to post some photos....There are 2 of the fuse and another showing the parts that came with it..I am missing the elevator, but can prob replicate that with a piece of balsa shaped aileron stock from LHS...hope these pics go thru..
joe
joe




