doomgaze,

The 3rd bb goes in the outer end of the grips (where the blade gets pinched)- you just insert 2 sets end to end in the opening. You need the correct grips made just for the 3bb because that hole is drilled deeper. The assembly procedure other than that is the same.

Good flyin'

I was given some great advice that I have tried for stock blade treatment and like it very well - strip all of the plastic covering off and coat them with Epoxy. I used the standard 2 part that comes in the dual syrynge looking thing from Home Depot. It was difficult to get a real even smooth coating, but some sanding after helped a lot. After sanding I spray paited and balanced them and it spins up to a hover with Zero vibration or wobble and hovers as well as my perfect condition carbon blades!

futura- I saw a post somewhere, sometime, who knows, that there is a titanium shaft for another bird (maybe HB) that could fit the CP but I never saw any more about it. There was no reference on where to get it though and I forgot about it. Rolling it on glass works best for me. I put a piece of 1/4" glass on my workbench at the edge and hang the gear over the side gottab.... said. Nothing personal gottab... that's just too long to type. (I've gottaford2).

As far as repairing (or replacing) them I totally agree. It's a royal pain.

I'm thinking it was an HB CP2 because the heads are interchangeable.

Three bearings in each blade grip. nothing is replaced but the metal collet in the blade grip itself that goes between 2nd and 3rd bearing.

Look on page 37 of this forum and post #922 for diagrams on the 3bb setup.

Len

futura,
I got real tired of replacing the main gear because the shaft was bent. I went to the Century main gear that has a replaceable shaft. So now if I do have a bent shaft I only need to drop it out the bottom without taking apart the whole heli. Now as far as the main shaft is concerned I ordered extras and I removed straight shafts from originals that the gears were stripped. So I have several now. The Century shafts are stronger than the original, I don't know why but I haven't bent one after the conversion.
Here are the sites where you will find the parts.
http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2/..._Code=hum_cpfp
http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2/...=parts-hb3dpro
If you use the main gear (and I recommend you do to give your motor pinion more to grip to) you will need to file down to 1mm the collar on the top of the main gear so it will fit tight to the bottom bearing. You will have to readjust the servo connections to readjust to the taller shaft. Here are some pictures showing the main gear and shafts.
Don

Oppie:L

That gear & shaft substitution looks great. I've gotten down to about 10 minutes for a total shaft replacement & tracking, but your system looks great. I've found that most of my bends(Almost imperceptible except for the wobble & vibration) come from hard landings with boom strikes & 180 degree rotation of a blade, again with either boom strikes or "garage" wall strikes.

Finally getting to the point of pretty good tail in & sideways hovering after ?6 or 7 wks with my blade. kept it in the air a full 10 minutes last night in a 3 Ft circle most of the time, and occ'ly it broadened to a 5 fT circle. Not even a "hard" landing in 3 days!!

Lloyd

boy are those parts expensive. $56 and change. What, you expected me to just order those parts? Just wish somebody would get the parts for the CP2 bell-hiller head upgrade. Been trying to find them for three weeks now. Nobody has them in stock except some place in HongKong. Then it's $23 shipping for something that can be sent in an envelope. Not willing to pay that.

I have some rc heli experience and I am looking to buy an inexpensive electirc machine. I learned on an xrb SR and then moved up to a sceadu evo 50. I am not really concerned about being able to fly the blade but I have heard many mixed reviews of its quality and performance. My question is whether or not all of the kinks have been worked out now and the blade flies properly without any problems?

JordanT:

The blade is a great "first" on which to learn. Have had one for 7 Wks, And at the moment I've finally learned to hover it fairly well.
The only remains of the original heli are the radio, servos, swash plate & flybar . It's really simple to repair and really very inexpensive as Heli's go. A total rebuild--Frames,blade grip, etc, can be done within 2 hours at most. As for flying, when properly Set-up by the book, and trim & gyro set properly, it handles beautifully. I am still a Heli novice, though have been in RC for more than 40 years, and am totally fascinated by these little monsters. Looking foreward to a T-rex or MX400 as my next step up in a few Wks. Want to "perfect" tail out hovering first in my 12 X12X7 Ft high garage --it's the 7 Ft ceiling the bugs me most!!!

Lloyd

Hdoc- I still have the original motor (with 11t pinion) and servos, oh yeah, and the 4-in-1. It's like getting a new car. You gotta mod it or it's not really yours. Or something like that. I have the CNC swash, dragonfly DD tail, of course lipos and the LG from the MX400 using the heli-direct mounts. I have the auto-rotation gear and main shaft from Century on order and am trying to get the bell-hiller setup from the CP2. The more I read, the more I add.

Jordan-this is a great bird. Flies great out of the box (once you check the blade balance and tracking). But it's so much fun to mod and cheap compared to everything else out there. Just for fun I set up a custom build order on the TRex and was up to $600 before I even got started. With all the mods, I still haven't got $300 in the blade. I don't count the 7C TX because I use that for all my birds, even the ones with wings.

Anybody out there know what the settings for idle-up are for the 7C or 9C. I can't find any posts on it and am totally lost.

By the way Hdoc, I could barely stand in your garage. I can't imagine trying to fly in it.

I now have the flybar weights fully inboard. What if they are removed? Any news on horizon's bell-hiller head? Thanks.

Do you need revo when using your own TX?
Maybe thats my issue with the gyro gain acting like the pot adjustment.

Zooland1:

Yes it's tight. might make a better flier out of me because of the limited space. It's certanly hit the walls, door & garbage pails enought times, (rather than me) -- Never had a tilt over-- despite the many rebuilds & repairs. At least you become an expert in the mechanics of the machine, though all heli's are pretty much the same. I usually hover in the 3-5 Ft range (Afcraid to take it higher with the 61/2 -7 Ft ceiling.) At times I I'm literally standing over it at 1-2 Ft Alt while in a rock steady hover--"Funny feeling"
The only Mod I did was adding a LIPO, the 9 tooth pinion Motor , and Symm blades. I'm really using the blade as a learning machine, and plan on a T-Rex or MX400 after I perfect Tail-out hovering. Have a Raptor 30 I built 6 Yrs ago which for various reasons has never been flown. Will take it out in the Spring-- Should be lots more stable and more easily flyable than these Micros.

Lloyd

.


Revo keeps heli from spinning right or left when increasing or decreasing throttle. More so when you juice it real good.




I love to mod so far i have carbon blades, futaba 7c tx, eflight 370 5400kv brushless motor, eflight 20a speed controller, aluminum swash plate, and still running the stock 4in1. Just went brushless today, with normal throttle curves the head speed is insane, have a 9 tooth pinion on it but still had to set throttle curves at less than 70% at full throttle. But hey no bogging down you add throttle and this baby goes talk about fff.

I understand what revo does...but my question is/was do you need it when the 4in1 has a proportinal esc?

Hdoc- I had a Walkera DF for a year and a Pico Fun for about six months. They were so hard to control I just never flew them. Actually I didn't fly the DF because it came with a defective 3-in-1 and the place I got it wouldn't replace it and I wasn't sinking any more money into it. The Pico was because of fear factor. Parts are so hard to come by, I never fly it because of knowing it would end up in abox waiting for parts. I've had no fear to fly the Blade. Maybe it was using G2 or it's just that good. I still can't control the Pico, so I think it's the bird. I still haven't really gotten carried away with any stunts. I'm just so excited to be able to actually hover for more than ten second

Oh yeah, I rebuilt the DF with a backup blade head and tail rotor. Don't have an extra 4-in-1 so I haven't tried it. Been considering setting it up on separates so I can fly it. It's about the size of a 400, but should still work with the CP head I think.

redmann- thanks for the post on the 7c. My original settings are pretty close to what you've got. I had already saved your settings from page 67, so I had that to go by. The problem I was having is I couldn't figure out how to set up the "idle-up". The instruction book isn't exactly helpful. You're just supposed to 'know' how to get there on the menu. I finally stumbled onto it tonight and it works great. Far superior IMHO to the stock TX. I thought INH meant "in helicopter" LOL. So I was thinking it meant it was built into the 4-in-1. How was I supposed to know you had to turn 'off' something in order to turn it on. OK you can pick yourself off the floor now and read what somebody else posts. Hope your sides stop hurting soon

......Ok next stage, should the gyro be.....""""INH""""....or "off", since as gsilver mentioned it's supposed to be handled by the 4-in-1

how in the hell do i fly this thing?my mother in law gave this to me a week before christmas with the understandig that i would wait 200.00 later im getting frustrated

\


Took me a little while to figure it out to, the gyro should be on INH. Turn it to off and it will come on when you give it throttle, Off just means you have not turned the switch on yet.

I had to use it on mine I think the stock tx has some revo settings built in. not sure though.

The REVO on my heli does help quite a bit. I set up the proportional on the 4-in-1 to hold the tail in a hover and then set the revo on my TX to a switch so I could see the difference. I'm still playing with values. I am currently using a high of about -20 and a low of -15. The difference is quite dramatic between having it on and having it off. The heli lifts off without any need to touch the rudder with it on. With it off I'm flying the rudder during takeoff. When I flick the switch on there is a noticable change in the rudder trim and I have to retrim it. Not a big deal but just something to be aware of. The higher the revo settings the more you have to retrim.

Here is my take on REVO. I could be completely wrong in my understanding but so far this has been my experience.

The gyro is working after the fact trying to correct what it has detected. There is a lag time there. The TX is working with known inputs and can more effectively counter but you have to take the time to tweak it to get it right. So basically the stock 4-in-1 gyro and the TX REVO settings work together to make your heli more stable. The 4-in-1 gyro will now become the stabalizer for wind changes and stuff and the TX will handle the throttle changes.


Here are all of my settings currently for my Futaba 7CHP. I am constantly tweaking:

D/R, EXP
1-AIL down - D/R: 140, EXP: -5
1-AIL up - D/R: 140, EXP: -0

2-ELE down - D/R: 140, EXP: -5
2-ELE up - D/R: 140, EXP: -0

4-RUD down - D/R: 100, EXP: -5
4-RUD up - D/R: 100, EXP: -0

All ATV's/End Points 100% (until final setup item posted below)

SWASH:
Aileron -80%
Elevator +80%
Pitch +25

REVO (set up on a switch to turn on and off for testing. I'll probably try out the higher values as well)
HI: -20
LO: -15

Normal Pitch curve: 40,40,50,75,100
Normal Throttle curve: 0,25,50,75,100

Idle Up (1) Pitch curve: 0,25,50,75,100
Idle Up (1) Throttle curve: 100,75,50,75,100

Idle Up (2) Pitch curve: 0,25,50,75,100
Idle Up (2) Throttle curve: 100,100,100,100,100

I've not had the chance to really test the idle up settings yet but testing on the bench works exactly like I want it to. It will be interesting to see how it does in the air. The only final thing I would do is set up the throttle hold so it stops the motor

The big trick to getting this to work is this quote from Gary Hoorn:

When I did the above my final positive endpoint for the throttle channel was around +37%. It had to go down quite a bit from 100%.

im not sure what happend... but my T9 tx just stopped working... I changed the crystals using the stock TX and everything works fine. *sigh*

Note: nobody from AMA is allowed to read this post

Try the stock crystal in the 9c to see if you cracked the crystal. Just something to try. (don't tell anybody this is technically illegal) It might be worth a shot to see if the crystal went bad. Don't tell anyone, but I've been flying mine with the stock crystal all along.

How do you swap the crystal? it is a module.