Radioflyer,

I would guess that the wire on the gyro, vibrated loose, I've never touch it. I'd suspect that during the manufacturing process that when the wire insulation was stripped, that a few of the tiny little wires were cut loose too. Example, instead of having 30 tiny wires, you only have 15. Plus a cold soldier joint could be a culprit too. Anyway, as mentioned, I was lucky to find the problem and repair it.

Just be patient and get the CF blades for the T-Rex when available. Happy adjusting! A tedious task for sure.

I'm steering now towards the HBKII, I have one and have upgraded to the Brushless Motor and installed the HS-55 servos. It's a little bigger that a Blade and a smaller than a T-Rex. Just inbetween.

Hey there's Barrick... See Pictures.

God Bless Jay,

Dave / Choppersrule
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I don't mind the pain of a sun burn, it's the terrible itching that happens while it's healing that drives me nuts! I had a bad one last year after being out on the lake, now we have spf 30 laying around everywhere and one in my tackle box I hope the healing goes quick!

God Bless!

BTW Choppers, I might have to get that HBKII and Brushless set-up to, it just look to dang cool! I just have to be extra sweet to my wife Of coarse all of the parts I'm buying doesn't help that case. When I told her I crash the T-Rex you should have seen the look on her face, yep she knows that it just means more money to the hobby. I'm so glad my wife understands my sickness

Barrick my Friend:

As we mentioned before, yes the thread is a little empty now. It's a time of year for all to fly, and have other responsibilities around the house. Vacations, etc. Get the old dremel tool or X-acto knive out and just carve a little more of the main frame to get the mesh right. It's tedious for sure and time consuming, but, I know you'll get it.

Glad to hear the CX-2 is doing well for ya.

Here's a link for the HBK II, that some of the guys are posting..
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_50...page_70/tm.htm

However, Rick, our best friend, you always know if you post a problem or needs here, We will be here for you.

God Bless,

Dave / Choppersrule
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Radioflyer,

I purchased my first (first) HBKII from RC-Estore, or something like that, I don't remember right now. The stock brushed motor sucks, bar none. Go from the get go and get the Brushless set-up. I'm like you, my wife understands my sickness/addition too.
But, she does say, "At least I know where he's at".

I'd highly recommend. PM'ing "Betapilot", I'll give you a link to PM him and his e-mail address. He's a straight forward guy, he doesn't have a web-sit yet, he's working on it. I've ordered two HBKII barebones, two brushless motors/esc. $40 bucks for the combo. Part of his services at no charge, he installed the motors and esc's on my barebones.

It's a 3800KV outrunner, works great. First outrunner I've had, the torque is awesome. Get the 11 tooth pinion, instead of a 9 tooth. Also, he flys a real heli. He'll customize anything you want. Also, he has what's called, the "Frankenstein". Ask him about it. Shortly, he will be carrying T-Rex stuff, ask him about that too.

Link to PM him, look for Betapilot, post number 1289 will do, he's a Power Member and Certified with RCU.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_50...65/key_/tm.htm

His e-mail address is: [email protected]

I'm extremely happy with his service, You know I wouldn't steer you wrong. Just tell him in your request, that Dave / Choppersrule sent ya.

God Bless Jay,

Dave / Choppersrule

Thanks Dave, great stuff for everyone as always!

Thanks Jay,

Time for this old guy to go to bed..

Later,

God Bless,

Dave / Choppersrule
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Arrow, your sunburn needs a dose of aloe. My wife has a few aloe vera plants on our deck and when I get a bad amount of sun I just bust off a leaf and rub some of the jelly strait from the leaf all into my skin. It like a miracal.

Rick, its very good to see heli's putting a smile on your face. I always love the pics.

theradioflyer, Do you have a heat sink on te motor? I used the eflite one I had with some thermal paste. I think mine still gets in the 130-140F range. Also I am very jelious of your fishing trip. I have an anual 2.5 day tuna charter in 2 weeks.

Well I just flew my MT at my jobsite this afternoon and there was probably 10-15mph wind and I was flying out over a big area that had been excavated down about 45 feet. I was great to be able to fly in winds that would have me ground with my bcpp. I love having more heli's...aahhhh I think I am getting the fever. I cant wait to have a well stocked hanger. Really want one of those trex nitros.

Anyways happy flyin' all, Noah

Hey Noah, I have put the heat sinks on in all different arrangements. I had two on it and then Choppers said more than one is a hinderence so I went that route for a bit. I now have three on it with the top one modified to fit the top perfectly while not blocking the air holes, I'm going to try something else as soon as I mock it up.
The Tuna fishing trip sounds like a blast!

God Bless!

Radioflyer,

If your using 1, 2 or 3 heat sinks and your not experiencing any glitches your fine. My reference to more than one heat sink, I was concerned with the lower heat sink being to close to the 3n1 or 4n1 controller and transfering heat to the controller and over heating that. Also, if the heat sinks aren't tight on the motors and slip and slid, it could cause a harmonic frequency and cause glitches.

If they're tight and the controller doesn't seem to be over heated your okay, fine.

OH, I hate Tuna! Yuk!

Dave / Choppersrule
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I'll bet you would like catching one if you like any kind of fishin at all. True sport fishin'

Noguy,

This crazy guy doesn't eat any kind of fish, never did, never will.

Just something my taste buds don't care for.

On the other side of the coin, I'm a hunter too, not for fish, but deer and pheasant. When I was in the military, I was a certified expert marksman. So, I always get my limits. Years ago, I use to hunt pheasant with bow and arrow, using flu-flu arrows.

Still hate fish, YUK![sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Dave / Choppersrule
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Started on the installing the Dx6 on the blinged blade with the CP Pro 3 in 1 but have run into a few issues. Anyone remember seeing some basic programming for the DX6? The DX7 programming is quite different and doesn't seem to help much. All I really need is channel reversing and swash settings. Doing the same with the HBK2 and am in the same boat. I downloaded the HDX300 setup vids last nite of finless's and hopefully I can decipher and transfer the basics off that.
I am just looking for the easy road.........heh


__________________________________________________ ___________________________________


Of all the things I ever lost....................................... I miss my mind the most!

Arrow,

Here it is, see post #26. Not sure if this is what you need.. Also, something to keep in mind, on the Cp Pro, when you move the throttle stick full throttle the swashplate moves down. On the HBK2, moving the stick to full throttle, moves the swashplate up. Both in normal mode. It's like that because of head design.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#4935101

Dave / Choppersrule
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Thanks Dave, just what I was looking for! That is an excellent starting point. By your post are you inferring that the HBK2 also will work with these settings except to reverse the pitch swash setting from + to - or vice versa?? That would seriously be way too easy


__________________________________________________ ___________________________________


Of all the things I ever lost....................................... I miss my mind the most!

Arrow,

Your welcome, and I do believe you are correct, the HBK2 should work as you described. I don't have the HBK2 on my DX6, yet! I'd have to buy another receiver for the HBK2. So for now that's on hold. Someday.

So far, except for the upgraded brushless motor and gyro, I'll use the stock TX & Rx. I don't have the glitches in my area.

I almost bought a bottle of Wild Turkey last weekend, just to join the club.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=tongue_smile.gif]

Dave / Choppersrule
================================================== ====================================

Arrow...these worked for me:

Spektrum DX6 CP Pro setup direct from the manufacturer

First off you need the Spektrum DX6 radio system or if you already have one for other e-helis and e-planes you need to purchase an additional AR6000 Spektrum park flyer receiver. Next we need to remove the existing receiver from the new E-Flight BCPP heli. You will see the BCPPâ?Ts receiver is in its own plastic case and separate from the 3in1 unit. It is double side taped to the BCPPâ?Ts new and improved 3in1 unit. Unwrap the white receiver antenna wire from the landing skid and unplug the servo wires from the receiver. Notice that 2 of the wires are marked. One is the rudder channel lead and the other is the throttle channel lead. These 2 wires come from the new 3in1 unit and are marked with white tags so these will be easy to identify. The 3 servo wire leads are not tagged. Thatâ?Ts ok since we will trace them out and identify them here. You may wish to mark these wires with a small piece of tape. Looking from the front of the heli I name the servos as follows:!
FRONT; LEFT REAR; RIGHT REAR. These are the CCPM servos that control the helis swashplate movements. Later when we mount the Spektrum AR6000 receiver we will plug these 3 servo leads into their corresponding channels. Next gently pry the receiver from the 3in1 unit. You may need to use a small metal screwdriver. Then remove any residue tape from the 3in1 unit. The new AR6000 receiver will be taped right to the 3in1 unit. Make sure when you mount the receiver that you test fit the canopy to assure it will fit back on. And check the routing of the 2 AR6000 antennas so they do not touch the maingear or are subject to chafing. There is plenty of room for this tiny receiver under the canopy. If you mount the AR6000 receiver as shown in the pics in this article all will fit nicely.



To attach the AR6000 to the 3in1 unit I used a piece of the small double sided sticky tape included in the BCPP kit. You get a few spare pieces in the kit and one piece of this tape works nicely for mounting. Looking at the face of the AR6000 receiver I position it with the writing right side up as it mates and gets taped to the 3in1 unit. Next plug the 3 servo leads and 2 wires from the 3in1 into the AR6000. Rudder lead from the 3in1 plugs into the channel marked RUD, throttle lead from 3in1 plugs into channel marked THR. Next locate the servo wire from the FRONT servo and plug that into the channel marked ELE. The LEFT REAR servo wire connects to the channel marked AUX and the RIGHT REAR servo wire connects to the channel marked AILE. Route the servo wires so they do not get chafed by the turning maingear. You will note they can be run the same way they were when the stock E-Flite receiver was onboard. Keep them away from touching the main motor since that can get!
warm in flight. ALSO make sure when you plug in these 5 wires that the ORANGE lead is on the TOP as you look at each plug. This assumes that you have the AR6000 mounted with the words on it right side up as mentioned in this article. Double check that the ORANGE wire in each plug, the SIGNAL wire, matches the small decal on the AR6000 receiver. This decal notes the correct orientation for how the wires plug into this receiver.



For these next steps it is a good idea to NOT plug in the LI-PO battery to the BCPPâ?Ts 3in1 unit. Wait until you have the DX6 transmitter set up and programmed for heli usage and have all the values from this article inputted into the transmitter. Be patient, later in this article we will boot up the system.



Next locate a model memory that is not being used by another model in your DX6 transmitter. Consult the DX6 manual for the procedure on how to change the model memory to a blank one. Note by performing this procedure incorrectly you may accidentally erase the current model memory that you have set up for another model. Be careful to understand how to change the model memory before completing this procedure. You may wish to consult page 70 of the DX6 manual for more info. Once that is done we need to change the aircraft type to HELI â?oHEâ?� see page 66 in the manual. The DX6 defaults the model memory to the PLANE â?oACâ?� model type. When you have set up a new model memory and have changed the model type to heli you are ready to program the transmitter for the BCPP heli with the values listed in this article. Note you can also NAME this new model memory too as outlined on page 71 in the DX6 manual. I chose PRO for this conversion model name but you can use any 3 dig!
its or letters for the name.



The Blade CP and Blade CP Pro utilize 120 CCPM mixing. We need to activate the CCPM programming in the DX6 transmitter. Since this setting is model specific it will only be active in this particular model and it will not affect other helis that do not use CCPM for cyclic and collective pitch controls that you may have already set up in your DX6 transmitter.



To activate the CCPM programming you may wish to consult page 88 in the DX6 manual. Once you activate the CCPM programming you can press both orange buttons upwards and that will get you out of the programming. The DX6â?Ts battery voltage should be displayed as well as the 3-digit model name when you are not in the programming mode. And donâ?Tt worry if you accidentally scrolled past the â?oCCPâ?� menu the first time you look for it you can continue to press the left orange button upwards until the programming menu re-appears. The DX6 uses a LOOP system for the programming menus and parameters. If you pass by any menu continue to press the left orange button upwards until the menu is displayed again. Iâ?Tve done it hundreds of times myself!!!



Next we will input a program that will fly the BCPP with the DX6 system. Note all of this should be done with the BCPP still OFF with no power going to the 3in1 unit for safety.



THR â?" Norm

AIL â?" Rev

ELE â?" Rev

RUD- Rev

GER â?" Norm

PIT â?" Norm



D/R - Dual Rates

AIO - 75%

AI1 - 100%

ELO - 75%

EL1 - 100%



EXP â?" Exponential

AIO â?" 6%

AI1 â?" 6%

ELO â?" 6%

EL1 â?" 6%



Sub-Trim â?" Will vary and will be set once the heli is powered up to center the 3 CCPM servos. This will be mentioned later in the article.



TRV ADJ

RUD â?" 80% in both directions

THR (-110%) at bottom stick and (+70%) at full throttle stick



All other channels should be 100% in both directions. Note default is 100% for each channel so the other channels should be at 100% at this point.



HLD â?" Activate Throttle Hold â?" See page 77 in DX6 manual.

Set 0% as value this will shut off throttle when this switch is activated.



PLN â?" 0% - Default Setting

P2N â?" 50% - Default Setting

PHN â?" 100% - Default Setting



PLS - 0% - Default Setting

P2S â?" 50% - Default Setting

PHS â?" 100% - Default Setting



PLH â?" 0% - Default Setting

P2H â?" 50% - Default Setting

PHH â?" 100% - Default Setting



TLN â?" 0% - Default Setting

T2N â?" 70%

THN â?" 100% - Default Setting



TLS â?" 0% - Default Setting

T2S â?" 70%



MIX RVU â?" Default Setting

0%



MIX RVD â?" Default Setting

0%



MIX A11 â?" Mix is OFF â?" Default Setting



MIX CP2

+70%



MIX CP3

+66%



MIX CP6

+50%



MIX CCP â?" ON â?" This is the 120 CCPM MIX found on page 88 in the DX6 manual.



Now with this program in the DX6 transmitter we can power up the BCPP. I recommend that both the main motor power wire and the tailrotor power wire be unplugged from the 3in1 unit for safety. These wires are located on the RIGHT side of the 3in1 unit where the BCPPâ?Ts LI-PO battery connects for main power. The plug port on top of the 3in1 is the tailrotor power wire and bottom plug port is for the main motor power wire. Note page 20 in the E-Flite BCPP manual for reference as to how these 2 plugs connect to the 3in1 if you loose track of their orientation and location.



Next up we need to BIND the AR6000 receiver to the DX6 transmitter. Note this is only required once and if you purchased a NEW Spektrum receiver for this article. Binding is explained on page 60 of the DX6 manual. If your using the AR6000 receiver that came with your DX6 radio system this is already done and you can skip the BINDING procedure outlined here.



For BINDING the receiver in the BCPP heli you may follow these easy instructions or consult page 60 in the DX6 manual as well. First connect the BIND connector plug with the orange tag that came with your radio system or that was included with the AR6000 receiver to the BATTERY pins. Next connect the BCPP LI-PO battery to the 3in1â?Ts main power input lead. You will note that the LED on the AR6000 receiver will begin to flash. Next make sure your DX6 transmitter has the throttle stick at full down position and press and hold in the clear button on the back of your transmitter while you turn the DX6 transmitter power switch on. Release the button on the back of the transmitter once you see the LED inside the clear transmitter button begin to flash. Leave the system alone with NO transmitter stick movements and in 6 to 8 seconds the LED on the receiver should stop flashing and turn solid. You may notice at this point that the servos move a little too. This is normal si!
nce at this time your receiver is bound with your DX6 transmitter and the programming that you inputted per this article will now take control over the servos. Next disconnect the LI-PO battery from the 3in1 unit and remove the BIND connector plug from the BATTERY pins on the receiver. You can now turn your DX6 off too.



At this point we will look at the set up of the BCPP to make sure no over driving or stalling occurs on the servos when the DX6 transmitter sticks are moved to full positions. Again it is a good idea to NOT have the main motor or tailrotor motor power leads connected to the 3in1 unit since we will be moving the sticks on the DX6 to different positions to check servo movements and end point throws.



Turn on the DX6 with the throttle stick at full down position and plug in the BCPP LI-PO battery pack into the 3in1â?Ts main power input lead. In a few seconds the servos should move a small amount as you notice the LED on the AR6000 light up solid.



This means the AR6000 receiver has locked onto your DX6 transmitter. Once the system arms we can move the throttle stick to center position. With the main motor and t/r motor wires disconnected the helis motors should NOT be moving. Only the servos will move as we move the transmitter sticks. At center throttle stick you should see the servo horns at center position with the servo horns pointing outwards at 90 degrees from the side of each servo. If this is not the case sub trim the 3 CCPM servos to correct this. Please consult page 75 in the DX6 manual for sub trim usage. Basically we want to get the servo horns close to center by using the sub trim values while the throttle stick is at the center position. Note each servo may need different amounts of sub trim values and some may not require any value at all. Once you have the servos adjusted with the horns close to 90 degrees, close counts, with the throttle stick still at center move the right transmitter stick !
to its full forward and backward position. You should not hear any binding at these full throw positions. Leaving the throttle stick at center return the right stick to center and move the right stick to its full left and right positions. Again you should not hear any binding as well as the right stick is moved to its full throws. Next return the right stick to center and move the throttle stick to its full up position. You should not hear any servo binding as the collective is increased to full. Then move the throttle stick to its full bottom negative stick position too. If you notice any binding during any of these full throw tests you can go into the CCPM programming mode and reduce the values approx 4 to 8 units or so. Consult page 89 in the DX6 manual for more information on this procedure. As a quick reference for FORWARD/AFT cyclic binding, that is right stick forward and backward movements; the parameter to adjust is CP3. CP2 is for the RIGHT/LEFT cyclic m!
ovement. And collective is adjusted in the CP6 parameter. Note the v
alues for these parameters do not have to match and be the same. As a personal note I find the collective â?" CP6 usually lower than the other 2 CCPM settings mentioned here. AND CP2 is usually a little higher than CP3. You may find after flying the BCPP with the DX6 that you want to decrease the values of CP2 and CP3 to lessen the response. OR you may want to increase the values for CP2 and CP3 for more response as long as you do not hear any binding per this described testing. The numbers given in this article should be very close and should get the heli airborne and flying very well. You can tune as you prefer.



Next disconnect the LI-PO battery from 3in1 unit and turn off the DX6 transmitter. You can now plug in the main motor wire and t/r motor wire to the 3in1 unit. Please refer to page 20 in the E-Flight BCPP manual if you need assistance. Turn the DX6 back on and plug in the LI-PO battery. Make sure the throttle stick is at full down on the DX6. As with the stock BCPP transmitter do not move the heli while the LED on the 3in1 unit is flashing. At this time the gyro is calibrating for center and the throttle will arm shortly there after. Now you are all set to try that first test hover. As with any modification; upgrade or rebuilt heli always take care in trying your first hover attempts and flying. With this modification the BCPP may feel different since we now have a new transmitter and radio system controlling the heli. Note if your BCPP hovered and flew with good mainrotor tracking before this modification that should not change and all should be the same. If you !
have not flown your BCPP and did this modification first you may have to track the mainrotor blades. Depending on each BCPPâ?Ts set up you may have to adjust the POT on the 3in1 unit for tailrotor trimming. And you may want to adjust the POT for gyro gain on the 3in1 too. This is the same procedure as with the stock E-Flight transmitter and it is outlined in the BCPP manual. In my experience if the heli flew fine before this DX6 radio system transplant it will fly the same but have better control. And of course you now have full heli programming options too.



In closing please note in this article that we have set the stunt mode or â?oIdle Upâ?� as referred to by heli guys to match the normal throttle mode. This is incase a newbie accidentally bumps this switch. As you progress you may wish to set the idle up to a high throttle level for aerobatics. Personally I set Idle Up to 100% throttle. If the Idle Up throttle value is set to a high value do not flip this switch from a dead stop or gear damage may result. Raise the throttle stick in normal mode until everything is running smoothly then flip the Idle Up switch. To avoid 3in1 arming issues make sure the switch to activate the DX6 stunt mode/Idle Up is off. The switch position should be in the AWAY position as you look at the DX6 transmitter to turn OFF this stunt mode.



Thatâ?Ts it, now your BCPP has been SPEKTRUMIZED!!! No need to worry about frequency pin issues or else at your favorite indoor or outdoor flying fields. And your BCPP is fully tunable with REAL heli programming parameters. Have fun and remember to fly responsibly and safely! - GMRO


----------- End of Message -------------

The message can be located at:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4889344

Thanks crash, those are the same ones Dave posted a link too. I am sitting at the puter now with the Tx in hand, will do both models now and adjust after i get it set up. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeee. Blade HBK/CP/Trex.......heh!


__________________________________________________ ___________________________________


Of all the things I ever lost....................................... I miss my mind the most!

Bookmarked! Thanks crash.

Credit...CPPROMAN...thanks guy if you still haunt R/C Universe.

RICK HERE....Hello y'all
Been at the bench all day long, trying to set up the PRO and the CP
Just now, put the CP on the ground, with the new (replacement) stock motor. With plastic flat bottom blades, and the throttle on high with TRIM also on high, the helo lifts itself up from the ground not more than ONE INCH or so. Considering it's in ground effect it seems to be quite stable in all directions, but the LIFT is not there. Blades and paddles show perfect alignement. The body has no shakes or vibrations at all. Everything is smooth as can be. Tail blades were also replaced, even though the originals look to be fine.
[]
the old phartt can use SOME guidance !
[>:]



from the little knowledge I have acquired reading y'alls adventures : There is here a PITCH problem OR a HEAD SPEED problem ! ( am I on the right track ? )

Hows the battery Rick? sounds like you might have a dead cell or two. Charge 'em up and have someone at the LHS throw a digital meter on it. REALLY sounds like a weak battery at this point.

Hey Rick, where is your pitch set at with mid stick position? I have about 3 degrees positive pitch with mid stick and trim lever up. When I set my Blade up at o degrees mid stick it would barely lift off of the ground.

God Bless!

Hey ya old PHART! I am voting not enough pitch. have you tried turning each servo link in one half turn and then try to hovor again? Crash could be on to something too, as I have come to know him over the past 8 months he is definately the setup guy! If I had enough patience I would send him all my helis for a setup diagnostic and fine tune! Witha pitch guage if you have one you could verify wether its the pitch or not. Motor unplugged and then fire up Tx then plug in heli after it arms move the throttle to half stick.......pitch should be 0 degrees.
crash and choppers.........I used the CP Pro settings for the dx6 on the HBK2.....worked like a charm! I will post some pics in the other forum and a few here of all the fleet after I get the Blinged CP set up. All i have left is the pitch settings on it and its ready for flight again!


__________________________________________________ ___________________________________


Of all the things I ever lost....................................... I miss my mind the most!

Not arguing....anything is possible but....increasing the pitch reduces head speed= crappy stability and performance. Granted, pitch must be right, but headspeed must not be reduced to the point of impairment of the operation of the heli. I'm 99.999% sure it's battery since he changed the motor. BTW...a bad tail motor will cause the same symtom he discribes because it'll pull from the main motor. Rick, if you haven't done so...change the tail motor too. If that don't do it....gotta be battery.

Yeah Rick, I dont know if you are using the eflite 800mAh batt but I have found that they are not the best.... [&o] I have 3.
Definatley pick yourself up a volt meter if you dont already have one. Heres one for $10.50 shipped to your door: [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/Volt-Meter-Mutimeter-Amps-AC-DC-Voltmeter-Digital-OHM_W0QQitemZ180141523356QQihZ008QQcategoryZ73158Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]EBAY[/link] I am sure you can find a decent one at your local hardware store or Radio shack for under $20.
How many cycles do you have on the pack you are using? I have few on my eflite packs and they are already degrading quickly. Probably around 30-50 cycles and they are most likely crapping out due to my poor treatment of them.

Noah