Welcome to Club SAITO !
How did I know that was coming.
The thickness is key, I think, to keep the linkage from wobbling in the throttle arm hole. Thicker , like almost the width of a clevis is great. Brass is stylin', very nice touch.
The thickness is key, I think, to keep the linkage from wobbling in the throttle arm hole. Thicker , like almost the width of a clevis is great. Brass is stylin', very nice touch.
My Feedback: (1)
here you go guys, I only read 3 of these. keep an eye on the Nitro percentages
I do know one thing for sure, I want a Saito 91 for my ShoeString !!
Saito 115,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ito-115-a.html
Saito 100,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ease-post.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...aito-100s.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...s-w-15x6w.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tachometer-readings-173/3043133-what-props-saito-100-a.html
notice the first reply,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-1-00-rpm.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...0-numbers.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-4-stroke.html
Saito 100 on 30%
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...li-15x6ma.html
a bunch of Saito 100 prop talk,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ito-100-a.html
Saito 91,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-readings.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...to-fa91-s.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-91-15x4w.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-apc-14x6.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...aito-91-a.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ito-91-fa.html
Saito 82,,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...to-fa-82a.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...saito-82a.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...saito-82a.html
Jim
I do know one thing for sure, I want a Saito 91 for my ShoeString !!
Saito 115,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ito-115-a.html
Saito 100,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ease-post.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...aito-100s.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...s-w-15x6w.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tachometer-readings-173/3043133-what-props-saito-100-a.html
notice the first reply,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-1-00-rpm.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...0-numbers.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-4-stroke.html
Saito 100 on 30%
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...li-15x6ma.html
a bunch of Saito 100 prop talk,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ito-100-a.html
Saito 91,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-readings.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...to-fa91-s.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-91-15x4w.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...-apc-14x6.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...aito-91-a.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...ito-91-fa.html
Saito 82,,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...to-fa-82a.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...saito-82a.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tach...saito-82a.html
Jim
Dave the saito manuals we get here listed a 15x8 as the biggest prop for the fa115, i like to keep the rpm down to around 9000 on the ground. I used a 15x8 mas and top flying rpm was 8500 on the ground with absolute max rpm 8900. Fitted to the slippery midget mustang that was the prop that would rip in the air, sometimes you would get what sounded like a loud sonic boom from the prop tips in a dive. The same plane was much quicker with a mas 14x10 s2 q tip. Since all my fa82's are in arf 46 size decathlons now it's been fun to try lots of different props wooden zingers and xoars etc but for outright flying performance an apc 14x6 smashes them, you can hover with them at full throttle but a wooden 14x5 wide blade was more fun for that. The apc plastic prop is heavy compared to wood so flying the decaff with a light wooden prop moves the cog back in to flat spin territory which is entertaining. A 5 pitch revs the engine to hard for normal scale flight tho.
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 11-01-2019 at 01:33 AM. Reason: cog
I have only had one plastic arm fail. I pay a lot of attention to linkage setup and alignment and this one was quite a surprise. It was on a Saito 62 in a Toledo Spl on maiden flight. I at first thought it was a servo. Flew out the tank at full throttle, landed when the engine died. The arm had simply broken.
I got luck and found someone selling a few steel arms and bout all he had.
Yeah the “S” bend is way better lol
I don’t normally do that on the throttle but I have done this technique on steel arms and it works fine I just know now I can’t do that on the plastic arm
I don’t normally do that on the throttle but I have done this technique on steel arms and it works fine I just know now I can’t do that on the plastic arm
This is
Sullivan flex cable with a Dubro setscrew fitting. The Toledo has plenty of room for a smooth connection.
The very few installations (2 or 3) where I used a "U" bend were years ago. Before the plastic arms were used. No problems there.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-01-2019 at 02:55 AM.
The plastic arms are not as flexible as one would think (it's not nylon). I broke one on the bench trying to get a z-bend in by drilling the hole with the wire end. The wire drilled through just fine but the arm cracked when I tried to get the bend through. Since then I drill the holes out and use a ball link or clevis.
I have read a few comments on the push rod for the throttle and they have been saying the cable or golden rod to be better for vibration then a solid rod. Besides the cable is a lot easier to work with
Aquarium tubing with weedeater line inside works great for flex cable too. Sized correctly the weadeater line screws into a clevis quite securely. The line is a little stiffer than golden rod cable and way cheaper.
Rarely seen, for good reasons.
Every pivot point adds friction. As well as room for slop.
A straight cable works great, less friction, less slop, fewer parts Win, win , win.
Every pivot point adds friction. As well as room for slop.
A straight cable works great, less friction, less slop, fewer parts Win, win , win.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-01-2019 at 04:16 AM.
Sure there is. All the pivots and linkage connection require operating clearance. More pivots just add the clearances. And they wear from there with use.Likewise with drag, it all adds up.
You could flip the throttle arm down, put a ball link on the end of a flex cable and toss that Rube Goldberg stuff back in it's bag
Less friction, less slop.
Sorry Dave, used one of those things when DuBro sold them. One time, never again. Just more "stuff" that does not solve anything in most cases.
OK Lonnie, Sounds like a good tip.
You could flip the throttle arm down, put a ball link on the end of a flex cable and toss that Rube Goldberg stuff back in it's bag
Less friction, less slop.
Sorry Dave, used one of those things when DuBro sold them. One time, never again. Just more "stuff" that does not solve anything in most cases.
OK Lonnie, Sounds like a good tip.