DL-50 engine
10-04-2008 | 04:45 AM
#3152
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
RE: DL-50 engine
sorry I should have 1/30 [:@]. The high and low screws are set 1.5 (low) 1.5 (high) the compression if fair for 2 hours running. I have searched a few forums for anyone who as problems with starting the dl but everyone raves how good they are.
Im just dont know what to try next.
any ideas?
Im just dont know what to try next.
any ideas?
10-04-2008 | 06:00 AM
#3153
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From: Farmington,
WV
RE: DL-50 engine
Maz,
What is your starting technique??? especially for the first start of the day... Your settings are ok to start with but that doesn't mean the motor is running correctly with those settings....
If everything is tuned correctly and plumbed correctly...
The first start of the day should goes much like this...
Fill Tank.
Turn on choke
Turn on Ignition
Flip till the engine pops... (This is determine by how well tuned the engine is.) Mine pops within 10 flips on the first start of the day.
Turn off choke.
Flip till it starts. (Less than 3 flips for me. again determined by how well the engine is tuned.)
Good Luck,
What is your starting technique??? especially for the first start of the day... Your settings are ok to start with but that doesn't mean the motor is running correctly with those settings....
If everything is tuned correctly and plumbed correctly...
The first start of the day should goes much like this...
Fill Tank.
Turn on choke
Turn on Ignition
Flip till the engine pops... (This is determine by how well tuned the engine is.) Mine pops within 10 flips on the first start of the day.
Turn off choke.
Flip till it starts. (Less than 3 flips for me. again determined by how well the engine is tuned.)
Good Luck,
10-05-2008 | 07:36 AM
#3154
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From: Flintshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: DL-50 engine
Hi, been out with the plane today, but the engine is still having the mis fire problems. The spring was missing that grounded the cap, so i put an earth strap from the engine to the outside of the metal outer sheaf of the plug lead. This have cured the interferace probblem but the motor is still mis firing. I has moved the mixture in and out and apart from the normal poor running being over rich or lean the miss continues. I have moved the timing but again the engine runs the same. It does feel sounds like the ingnition system is playing up. I dont know what else to do except by a new igniton system, but dont want to until i know for a fact that my ignition is broken.
Any other help information most welcome
Any other help information most welcome
10-05-2008 | 08:36 AM
#3155
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From: Western Australia, AUSTRALIA
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: paulflys4fun
Hi, been out with the plane today, but the engine is still having the mis fire problems. The spring was missing that grounded the cap, so i put an earth strap from the engine to the outside of the metal outer sheaf of the plug lead. This have cured the interferace probblem but the motor is still mis firing. I has moved the mixture in and out and apart from the normal poor running being over rich or lean the miss continues. I have moved the timing but again the engine runs the same. It does feel sounds like the ingnition system is playing up. I dont know what else to do except by a new igniton system, but dont want to until i know for a fact that my ignition is broken.
Any other help information most welcome
Hi, been out with the plane today, but the engine is still having the mis fire problems. The spring was missing that grounded the cap, so i put an earth strap from the engine to the outside of the metal outer sheaf of the plug lead. This have cured the interferace probblem but the motor is still mis firing. I has moved the mixture in and out and apart from the normal poor running being over rich or lean the miss continues. I have moved the timing but again the engine runs the same. It does feel sounds like the ingnition system is playing up. I dont know what else to do except by a new igniton system, but dont want to until i know for a fact that my ignition is broken.
Any other help information most welcome
Remove any fuel probe type fillers and just use simple t or fuel dot setup.
Also clean the filter screen in the carby if you having to play with the needles & they arent affecting tuning properly. Small bit of junk in the fuel is all it takes to gunk up the screen. Pic attached
The motor will run fine without the spring in the cap, it will still ground OK, the spring is just to be sure to be sure. Hooking up an earth wire isnt fixing anything, is just masking a problem somewhere.
Get back to basics to eliminate anything not so obvious but right in front of you if you catch my drift...sometimes we cant see the forest for the trees
Cheers
Scott
DLENGINES AU
10-05-2008 | 11:28 AM
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From: St. Joseph,
MO
RE: DL-50 engine
Two things.
Have you tried a new spark plug yet? Often a new plug will cure hard starting or missing while running. The plug may "look" fine but may not be.
Check the sensor wire for intermittant shorting to the engine case. The insulation can wear against the case and expose bare conductors to ground. The spiral wrap sheathing can help eliminate this but it can still happen. It is always a good idea to restrain the cable to keep it from flopping around and possibly wearing a bare spot or fatigueing the conductors due to vibration.
10-05-2008 | 11:38 AM
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From: Flintshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: DL-50 engine
Hi, i have cleaned the carb pulged a new battery into the ignition, i have already fitted two new plugs. It was still the same. I have played again with the mixture. It is running ok ish on the ground, only missing every 10 seconds or so. I went down the flying field, just walked back in now. The engine is missing even more in the air. It does not stop, but missing every few seconds.
I have used all the fuel now so will get fresh fuel tomorrow and try that, but this fuel is only two weeks old.
I have used all the fuel now so will get fresh fuel tomorrow and try that, but this fuel is only two weeks old.
10-05-2008 | 12:53 PM
#3158
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From: Maryville,
TN
RE: DL-50 engine
It sounds like the the carb needs some tweaking. I have had to adjust the metering lever on one of mine to keep it from running with the burble in the mid range. What i do is change the pop off pressure to between 12 and 15 pounds and if it still wants to burble then i will adjust the lever height so the arm is above the surrounding casing put the diaphragm cover back on and see how it will adjust and runs then do it again until the burble is gone and transition is good.
10-05-2008 | 02:08 PM
#3160
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From: Maryville,
TN
RE: DL-50 engine
First you have to have a pressure gauge. Then you need to remove the diaphragm cover, the diaphragm and the gasket. Take the pressure gage and pressurize the inlet to the carb, when doing this you need to have the internals wet with fuel by this i mean pour a little fuel in the cavity where you remove the diaphragm then pump the gage up untill the pressure pops. You will see this when air starts coming thru the main needle. This is the pop off preasure to decrease the preasure remove the small spring under the lever and clip it with finger nail clippers one spring rotation at a time reinstall and test again untill you see the gage pop between 12 to 15 psi. Then run the engine on the ground and see how she does if you still have the issue remove the diaphragm cover and gasket again and bend the lever up just slightly and try it again. Some will tell you to bend it down, you can try that but it my experience that makes the engines sometimes loose fuel in the carb and run too lean and can run out of fuel, by bending it up you are allowing more fuel into the cavity and then you can adjust the needles in to get the engine to run how you want.
Be careful with the spring under the lever they are slippery little buggers and if you drop it you will never find it.
Check this site out it will help http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...n_pressure.htm
here is another that will help http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm
Be careful with the spring under the lever they are slippery little buggers and if you drop it you will never find it.
Check this site out it will help http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...n_pressure.htm
here is another that will help http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm
10-06-2008 | 03:52 AM
#3161
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From: Flintshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: DL-50 engine
Hi, thats great info. Does anyone no what pop of pressure i should aim for as a starting point? I am flying at sea leval, which i guess will make a diffrence?
10-06-2008 | 07:56 AM
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From: Apo,
AP
RE: DL-50 engine
I took my Ultra RC Yak 54 out to the field for some tests, Ves 23a, vess 22b stock exhaust and KS canister. DL 50 ks canister Vess 22b = 6700 rpm 22 lbs thrust
ks canister vess 23a =6990 25lbs thrust. I then switched to the stock muffler (very loud) and what a difference. Vess 22b 7200 28lbs Vess 23a 7590 35lbs thrust.
Wow, I never thought it would be that much difference. I didn't fly due to the bad weather. It is now a must to fly this plane with the stock muffler, that gives me 2:1
power to weight ratio. It ought to be quite lively.
Has anyone tried the mt can and header on this motor?
Jeff
ks canister vess 23a =6990 25lbs thrust. I then switched to the stock muffler (very loud) and what a difference. Vess 22b 7200 28lbs Vess 23a 7590 35lbs thrust.
Wow, I never thought it would be that much difference. I didn't fly due to the bad weather. It is now a must to fly this plane with the stock muffler, that gives me 2:1
power to weight ratio. It ought to be quite lively.
Has anyone tried the mt can and header on this motor?
Jeff
10-06-2008 | 09:11 AM
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From: mt shasta, CA
RE: DL-50 engine
Paulflys4fun Have you tried calling bob at dlusa he is great help and will help diag over phone I had the almost the same concern and found to be carb no mater how clean I got it still was plugged inside got new carb from bob know it runs and flys great no more midrange concerns good luck. The runner
10-06-2008 | 10:00 AM
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From: Maryville,
TN
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: craigteffe
First you have to have a pressure gauge. Then you need to remove the diaphragm cover, the diaphragm and the gasket. Take the pressure gage and pressurize the inlet to the carb, when doing this you need to have the internals wet with fuel by this i mean pour a little fuel in the cavity where you remove the diaphragm then pump the gage up untill the pressure pops. You will see this when air starts coming thru the main needle. This is the pop off preasure to decrease the preasure remove the small spring under the lever and clip it with finger nail clippers one spring rotation at a time reinstall and test again untill you see the gage pop between 12 to 15 psi. Then run the engine on the ground and see how she does if you still have the issue remove the diaphragm cover and gasket again and bend the lever up just slightly and try it again. Some will tell you to bend it down, you can try that but it my experience that makes the engines sometimes loose fuel in the carb and run too lean and can run out of fuel, by bending it up you are allowing more fuel into the cavity and then you can adjust the needles in to get the engine to run how you want.
Be careful with the spring under the lever they are slippery little buggers and if you drop it you will never find it.
Check this site out it will help http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...n_pressure.htm
here is another that will help http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm
First you have to have a pressure gauge. Then you need to remove the diaphragm cover, the diaphragm and the gasket. Take the pressure gage and pressurize the inlet to the carb, when doing this you need to have the internals wet with fuel by this i mean pour a little fuel in the cavity where you remove the diaphragm then pump the gage up untill the pressure pops. You will see this when air starts coming thru the main needle. This is the pop off preasure to decrease the preasure remove the small spring under the lever and clip it with finger nail clippers one spring rotation at a time reinstall and test again untill you see the gage pop between 12 to 15 psi. Then run the engine on the ground and see how she does if you still have the issue remove the diaphragm cover and gasket again and bend the lever up just slightly and try it again. Some will tell you to bend it down, you can try that but it my experience that makes the engines sometimes loose fuel in the carb and run too lean and can run out of fuel, by bending it up you are allowing more fuel into the cavity and then you can adjust the needles in to get the engine to run how you want.
Be careful with the spring under the lever they are slippery little buggers and if you drop it you will never find it.
Check this site out it will help http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...n_pressure.htm
here is another that will help http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm
10-06-2008 | 10:21 AM
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From: Flintshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: DL-50 engine
Sorry, i did not make myself clear. When i do the test and get say 12psi, which way do i go? Thats what i meant. Does my motor sound rich or weak? It's ok getting the psi reading, but i would not now which way to go. What is your psi set at?
10-06-2008 | 11:34 AM
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From: Flintshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: DL-50 engine
Right been and pumped the carb up. It got to 22psi before it popped off. I tested the pump on my zenoh 45 and that poped at 15psi, so do you think this is the problem. Before i do anything i.e cut the spring, i will take it to work tomorrow. The guy next door repairs jet ski's. He will clean the carb in a sonic tank and use the proper gear to test the pop off.
10-06-2008 | 07:35 PM
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From: Maryville,
TN
RE: DL-50 engine
When you get to the pop off preasure to between 12 and 15psi, reassemble and run the engine let it get hot run it for about 2 min before adjusting the needles, set the high needle first turn the needle in untill you reach max rpm and then back it off 50 to 100 rpm. Then adjust the low end needle bring the throttle up to about 1800 to 1900 rpm to make your adjustments turn the needle in untill the transition from high to low stumbles(almost dies or does) then back off the needle untill you have no stumble. If it still burbles make sure the carb is clean if so do the lever adjustment and retune as above and repeat untill the engine runs like you want.
10-07-2008 | 05:47 AM
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From: Flintshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: DL-50 engine
Hi, quick report back. The pop off has been tested with proper gear. It was not popping off unitil 31.5psi! I am more than a little disapointed that the DL50 was supplied to me like that. It has been reset now to pop off at 15psi. The guy in the ski shop said that i was lucky the motor had not been damaged. I will try the motor tonight, and report my findings.
10-07-2008 | 08:39 AM
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
After 2 gallons 32:1 Lawnboy I made the switch to 80:1 Saber and a Vess 23B prop. 7100rpm on an MTW RE2 pipe, 31lbs of thrust measured with a digital fish scale.
10-19-2008 | 04:23 PM
#3173
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RE: DL-50 engine
I'm in the market for a new DL 50 to get back into gas. Who is the US distributor and can I get their web site? Is there more than one place to purchase? Any other advice you can share as far as mounting, prop, break in oil etc.
thanks
Jeff
thanks
Jeff
10-20-2008 | 10:35 AM
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From: Ellensburg,
WA
RE: DL-50 engine
Tom at Valley View is a nice gentleman...
Replace 3 of the old style mufflers for me free of charge and out of warenty
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/Gas%20Engines.htm
Walt..
Replace 3 of the old style mufflers for me free of charge and out of warenty
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/Gas%20Engines.htm
Walt..
